I just popped a second set of Hope Evo TR4’s on a bike. I dropped a rotor size compared to the Formula cura 4’s they replace.
What I noticed was how the second set bled exactly as fast and easy as the first, the two pairs feel identical in how solid and powerful they are. No issues with the new bleed port.
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I...
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I jumped on my trail bike that had codes with hs2 rotors after being on my bikes with maven's for 6 weeks straight and the lack of braking performance was a bit jarring, also my hands/arms hurt from pulling the levers so hard. The DB8's on the other hand, feel really good and the linear lever throw makes them feel more confidence inspiring then the lack of power combined with the swing link power ramp up.
I was/am faced with the same issue you're facing as I had trp dhr evo's on above mentioned trail bike that were the replacement for the code rsc's that I found insufficient. I was really having a hard time going back and forth between maven's and the trp's with regards to: lever throw, bite point feedback and lever pull effort required for max power. I would get used to them after like 2.5 - 3 descents and would adjust... but the initial first descents were pretty tough.
I ended up going with a set of maven base with 200mm rotors after a lot of brain damage and inner debate. I am not stoked about adding ~150g to the bike, but I think I just need to be over braked and deal with the consequences.
100% agree that the stock organic pads on the DB8's need to go immediately in the trash. I think a lot of the reason why people who hate DB8's hated them is because they came stock with organic pads and those people never thought to switch. The organic pad is unrideable for me, and really only valid for beginners, intermediates, and for customers buying them on an city ebike for commuting.
My understanding is the Motive is basically a DB8 with a swinglink and bearings at the main lever pivot, which should make them a little more powerful but will make lever feel a little less linear and predictable. I would definitely take a Motive or DB8 over a Maven for a Tallboy, because I think brake size, tire carcass, and travel amount should roughly be correlated for best results.
Mavens on a tallboy is sort of like putting 35's on a Subaru: everything that makes a Subaru good is going to be less good with 35's. And if you actually need 35-inch tires, you definitely shouldn't pick a Subaru for your terrain.
Thanks all! Now that I’ve done a few rides on the Tallboy, I can confirm that braking power won’t be the factor limiting this bike. Motives with HS2 rotors should be more than enough
Has anyone tried to fix the high pitch squeal that Hope brakes suffer from? My best guess for the noise would be the phenolic insers that the pistons have. Radic Kaha and Trickstuff Maxima both have nearly the same size pistons, both brakes have hollow stainless steel pistons and use the same V4 pad standard. I've had Maximas and Kahas with Galfer red and green pads. Neither brake ever had the same noise that the V4's have. So I'm wondering if removing the plastic inserts from the V4 pistons would make the brakes quiet.
My experience with the Tech 4 V4s is that the red pads make noise and the purple ones don't, I tend to run purple as a default and they are pretty quiet in all scenarios.
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I...
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I jumped on my trail bike that had codes with hs2 rotors after being on my bikes with maven's for 6 weeks straight and the lack of braking performance was a bit jarring, also my hands/arms hurt from pulling the levers so hard. The DB8's on the other hand, feel really good and the linear lever throw makes them feel more confidence inspiring then the lack of power combined with the swing link power ramp up.
I was/am faced with the same issue you're facing as I had trp dhr evo's on above mentioned trail bike that were the replacement for the code rsc's that I found insufficient. I was really having a hard time going back and forth between maven's and the trp's with regards to: lever throw, bite point feedback and lever pull effort required for max power. I would get used to them after like 2.5 - 3 descents and would adjust... but the initial first descents were pretty tough.
I ended up going with a set of maven base with 200mm rotors after a lot of brain damage and inner debate. I am not stoked about adding ~150g to the bike, but I think I just need to be over braked and deal with the consequences.
100% agree that the stock organic pads on the DB8's need to go immediately in the trash. I think a lot of the reason why people who hate DB8's hated them is because they came stock with organic pads and those people never thought to switch. The organic pad is unrideable for me, and really only valid for beginners, intermediates, and for customers buying them on an city ebike for commuting.
My understanding is the Motive is basically a DB8 with a swinglink and bearings at the main lever pivot, which should make them a little more powerful but will make lever feel a little less linear and predictable. I would definitely take a Motive or DB8 over a Maven for a Tallboy, because I think brake size, tire carcass, and travel amount should roughly be correlated for best results.
Mavens on a tallboy is sort of like putting 35's on a Subaru: everything that makes a Subaru good is going to be less good with 35's. And if you actually need 35-inch tires, you definitely shouldn't pick a Subaru for your terrain.
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I...
I know this sounds crazy, but I would go with db8's with metallic pads and Hs2 rotors before going with the codes at this point. I jumped on my trail bike that had codes with hs2 rotors after being on my bikes with maven's for 6 weeks straight and the lack of braking performance was a bit jarring, also my hands/arms hurt from pulling the levers so hard. The DB8's on the other hand, feel really good and the linear lever throw makes them feel more confidence inspiring then the lack of power combined with the swing link power ramp up.
I was/am faced with the same issue you're facing as I had trp dhr evo's on above mentioned trail bike that were the replacement for the code rsc's that I found insufficient. I was really having a hard time going back and forth between maven's and the trp's with regards to: lever throw, bite point feedback and lever pull effort required for max power. I would get used to them after like 2.5 - 3 descents and would adjust... but the initial first descents were pretty tough.
I ended up going with a set of maven base with 200mm rotors after a lot of brain damage and inner debate. I am not stoked about adding ~150g to the bike, but I think I just need to be over braked and deal with the consequences.
100% agree that the stock organic pads on the DB8's need to go immediately in the trash. I think a lot of the reason why people who hate DB8's hated them is because they came stock with organic pads and those people never thought to switch. The organic pad is unrideable for me, and really only valid for beginners, intermediates, and for customers buying them on an city ebike for commuting.
My understanding is the Motive is basically a DB8 with a swinglink and bearings at the main lever pivot, which should make them a little more powerful but will make lever feel a little less linear and predictable. I would definitely take a Motive or DB8 over a Maven for a Tallboy, because I think brake size, tire carcass, and travel amount should roughly be correlated for best results.
Mavens on a tallboy is sort of like putting 35's on a Subaru: everything that makes a Subaru good is going to be less good with 35's. And if you actually need 35-inch tires, you definitely shouldn't pick a Subaru for your terrain.
Motives don't have a swing link. So just a rebranded DB8 then?
Code R and Guide R also had reach adjust (R beaing 'R'each adjust, S being Swing link and C being contact point adjustment in the RS(C) moniker.
So yeah, reach adjust or pivot bearings does not mean a swing link. As the picture above also shows. For the swing link you need another pivot higher up, closer to the clamp, that's a giveaway.
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick 223mm rotor suited for E-motos. I know that hopes vented rotor only fits on V4’s and maven calipers but was thinking that would a 3mm thick rotor just manage to fit on ”normal” brake calipers? I currently run Radic Kaha’s (yes I know Radic state that 2.3mm is the max).
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick...
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick 223mm rotor suited for E-motos. I know that hopes vented rotor only fits on V4’s and maven calipers but was thinking that would a 3mm thick rotor just manage to fit on ”normal” brake calipers? I currently run Radic Kaha’s (yes I know Radic state that 2.3mm is the max).
Can we talk about the rest of your setup before you put dirt bike rotors on your mtb? Like, what types of trails do you ride? What region? Do you think it could be a technique/style thing?
Motives don't have a swing link. So just a rebranded DB8 then?
You're right, I forgot Motives are "DirectLink." Good call. They are not Swinglink.
But they're still not truly a rebadged DB8 because the fancy Motives still have bearing pivots and tool free reach adjust, and the Ultimate version might even have ti hardware (this would be easy to look up but I don't remember and I'm not going to bother now).
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick...
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick 223mm rotor suited for E-motos. I know that hopes vented rotor only fits on V4’s and maven calipers but was thinking that would a 3mm thick rotor just manage to fit on ”normal” brake calipers? I currently run Radic Kaha’s (yes I know Radic state that 2.3mm is the max).
One thing to keep in mind is that thicker rotors will hold heat for longer than thinner rotors, more thermal mass will maintain temp longer with the same effective cooling... Thicker rotors won't necessarily solve the issue. Im between 195-215lbs depending on the part of the year and I have zero issue "cooking" rotors. Are you sure that the discoloration is the bad type of discoloration? Posting pictures of the rotor color would help. Ive been on T4V4's, Kaha and Dominions exclusively for the last 2 years. With SE05 TRP's I have yet to run into an issue where fade has had any impact on brake performance regardless of it being racing or just having fun ripping 4,000 foot runs. In fact the Kahas were towards the bottom of the pile for fade and pump issue of the three.
One thing to keep in mind is that thicker rotors will hold heat for longer than thinner rotors, more thermal mass will maintain temp longer with...
One thing to keep in mind is that thicker rotors will hold heat for longer than thinner rotors, more thermal mass will maintain temp longer with the same effective cooling... Thicker rotors won't necessarily solve the issue. Im between 195-215lbs depending on the part of the year and I have zero issue "cooking" rotors. Are you sure that the discoloration is the bad type of discoloration? Posting pictures of the rotor color would help. Ive been on T4V4's, Kaha and Dominions exclusively for the last 2 years. With SE05 TRP's I have yet to run into an issue where fade has had any impact on brake performance regardless of it being racing or just having fun ripping 4,000 foot runs. In fact the Kahas were towards the bottom of the pile for fade and pump issue of the three.
I think that is a rather confusing post about how the thickness of the rotors affect the heat and temperature. The heat transfer from the rotor will mostly be affected by the surface area and this will be reasonably similar between standard and thicker rotors. So, if the rotors are at the same temperature a thicker rotor will, indeed, stay at a higher temperature longer, but in reality the temperatures will not be the same. For a given braking event the energy dissipated with either rotor will be the same and the thicker rotor will reach a lower maximum temperature, and with multiple events the thicker rotor will always have a lower maximum temperature and less temperature fluctuation. Both good things for consistent braking performance, provided the rotor is sensibly sized and not way off from it's intended range.
My riding experience with thicker rotors is that they definitely help keep the brakes feel more consistent, reduce wear and fluid degradation, and stay true longer.
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers? I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will...
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
Also interested in hearing what people have been playing with. I might retire some TRP eventually and was thinking about trying TRP levers with Maven calipers. Maven power unfortunately ruined my TRPs haha, but would be nice to have a lighter lever pull on the Mavens. Shimano levers could be an option to apparently from MTBR.
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers? I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will...
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers? I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will...
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers? I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will...
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
I just popped a second set of Hope Evo TR4’s on a bike. I dropped a rotor size compared to the Formula cura 4’s they replace.
What I noticed was how the second set bled exactly as fast and easy as the first, the two pairs feel identical in how solid and powerful they are. No issues with the new bleed port.
I’m really impressed.
Anyone with intend trinity set that also tested the hope evo gr4? How do they compare?
I am very happy with my intends, but want to maybe try something new in the future
I really liked the lever feel and power on my DB8's with HS2 rotors, but there are definitely people in the comments and in this thread who disagreed: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/hydraulic-disc-brakes/sram/db8-59421
100% agree that the stock organic pads on the DB8's need to go immediately in the trash. I think a lot of the reason why people who hate DB8's hated them is because they came stock with organic pads and those people never thought to switch. The organic pad is unrideable for me, and really only valid for beginners, intermediates, and for customers buying them on an city ebike for commuting.
My understanding is the Motive is basically a DB8 with a swinglink and bearings at the main lever pivot, which should make them a little more powerful but will make lever feel a little less linear and predictable. I would definitely take a Motive or DB8 over a Maven for a Tallboy, because I think brake size, tire carcass, and travel amount should roughly be correlated for best results.
Mavens on a tallboy is sort of like putting 35's on a Subaru: everything that makes a Subaru good is going to be less good with 35's. And if you actually need 35-inch tires, you definitely shouldn't pick a Subaru for your terrain.
Thanks all! Now that I’ve done a few rides on the Tallboy, I can confirm that braking power won’t be the factor limiting this bike. Motives with HS2 rotors should be more than enough
Has anyone tried to fix the high pitch squeal that Hope brakes suffer from? My best guess for the noise would be the phenolic insers that the pistons have. Radic Kaha and Trickstuff Maxima both have nearly the same size pistons, both brakes have hollow stainless steel pistons and use the same V4 pad standard. I've had Maximas and Kahas with Galfer red and green pads. Neither brake ever had the same noise that the V4's have. So I'm wondering if removing the plastic inserts from the V4 pistons would make the brakes quiet.
I've done everything but remove those inserts to remove it. even tried backing plate things.
They just squeek, Wish Hope would actually just admit to a marketing reasoning an it would settle that talk.
My experience with the Tech 4 V4s is that the red pads make noise and the purple ones don't, I tend to run purple as a default and they are pretty quiet in all scenarios.
This is such a good analogy lmao
Motives don't have a swing link. So just a rebranded DB8 then?
With the addition of reach adjust, and a bearing pivot in the "silver" and "ultimate" grades, by the looks of it
Code R and Guide R also had reach adjust (R beaing 'R'each adjust, S being Swing link and C being contact point adjustment in the RS(C) moniker.
So yeah, reach adjust or pivot bearings does not mean a swing link. As the picture above also shows. For the swing link you need another pivot higher up, closer to the clamp, that's a giveaway.
For the Hope brake noise I wonder if something like this would be effective https://shop.morganblue.net/en/brake-silencer-paste.html
Back in the day when I got my first disc brakes I remember the advise to cure squeaky brakes was to apply copper grease to the back of the pads.
I seem to have a habit of cooking brakes. Even with 223/2.3mm rotors I can get them discolored. I saw that Lewis make a 3mm thick 223mm rotor suited for E-motos. I know that hopes vented rotor only fits on V4’s and maven calipers but was thinking that would a 3mm thick rotor just manage to fit on ”normal” brake calipers? I currently run Radic Kaha’s (yes I know Radic state that 2.3mm is the max).
What’s your weight, bike weight, terrain?
Can we talk about the rest of your setup before you put dirt bike rotors on your mtb? Like, what types of trails do you ride? What region? Do you think it could be a technique/style thing?
You're right, I forgot Motives are "DirectLink." Good call. They are not Swinglink.
But they're still not truly a rebadged DB8 because the fancy Motives still have bearing pivots and tool free reach adjust, and the Ultimate version might even have ti hardware (this would be easy to look up but I don't remember and I'm not going to bother now).
One thing to keep in mind is that thicker rotors will hold heat for longer than thinner rotors, more thermal mass will maintain temp longer with the same effective cooling... Thicker rotors won't necessarily solve the issue. Im between 195-215lbs depending on the part of the year and I have zero issue "cooking" rotors. Are you sure that the discoloration is the bad type of discoloration? Posting pictures of the rotor color would help. Ive been on T4V4's, Kaha and Dominions exclusively for the last 2 years. With SE05 TRP's I have yet to run into an issue where fade has had any impact on brake performance regardless of it being racing or just having fun ripping 4,000 foot runs. In fact the Kahas were towards the bottom of the pile for fade and pump issue of the three.
I think that is a rather confusing post about how the thickness of the rotors affect the heat and temperature. The heat transfer from the rotor will mostly be affected by the surface area and this will be reasonably similar between standard and thicker rotors. So, if the rotors are at the same temperature a thicker rotor will, indeed, stay at a higher temperature longer, but in reality the temperatures will not be the same. For a given braking event the energy dissipated with either rotor will be the same and the thicker rotor will reach a lower maximum temperature, and with multiple events the thicker rotor will always have a lower maximum temperature and less temperature fluctuation. Both good things for consistent braking performance, provided the rotor is sensibly sized and not way off from it's intended range.
My riding experience with thicker rotors is that they definitely help keep the brakes feel more consistent, reduce wear and fluid degradation, and stay true longer.
I guess we need 5+ mm thick aluminium rotors... Or berylium 😂
Has anyone here mixed shimano levers with maven calipers?
I want maven power with the shimano lever feel, and I'm wondering if the shimano servowave levers will push enough fluid that I won't end up with absurdly long deadstroke on the levers. I know people have done it over on MTBR. Curious if anyone here has experience with it.
Also interested in hearing what people have been playing with. I might retire some TRP eventually and was thinking about trying TRP levers with Maven calipers. Maven power unfortunately ruined my TRPs haha, but would be nice to have a lighter lever pull on the Mavens. Shimano levers could be an option to apparently from MTBR.
Going to pick up my Evo GR4's from my LBS later today! Unfortunately, I don't think I'll get to test them out until next season...
weather this weekend looks pretty decent for Moose mountain
Ha ha. It's been a pretty great extended riding season out here, but I'm learning how to not die in avalanches this weekend. Lol
haha yup that is also very important thing to learn if you're heading to the backcountry. Enjoy and be safe out there :D
Came across the Shaven setup on insta https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGR3V7XzVyj/?igsh=MXM5NTdmcWN0dHdyZg==
Man, some of those comments...
So I guess it technically works but how does it perform?
Wild. I like the idea of the Lewvan set up more than the Shaven, but cool to see people experimenting and mixing/matching.
Been running the same AliEx maxima copy levers with (first DB8'S) and now magura MT7 calipers with Tektro mineral oil.
No issues whatsoever.
No noise. No fade. No wandering bite point.
Just budget friendly, strong brakes.
Been trying to figure out which one I like more lol
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment