The new barb and sleeve helps a lot with preventing the hose from being ripped out. I’ve had several crashes this year including one high speed...
The new barb and sleeve helps a lot with preventing the hose from being ripped out. I’ve had several crashes this year including one high speed crash that sent my bike flipping down the face of a jump and my hoses haven't been ripped out yet.
that’s reassuring, i never understood why they shipped the front line cut to 80cm only, it worked but not when you crash and your handlebars do...
that’s reassuring, i never understood why they shipped the front line cut to 80cm only, it worked but not when you crash and your handlebars do a 360 -.-
the new line is 100cm and it fits just perfect on my flash @ 180cm
I got shipped a 100cm line but then accidentally cut it too short lmao
Intend accidentally sent me the old fittings with my brakes but quickly remedied that at no cost when I reached out. They even sent me a new hose when I mentioned I accidentally cut it too short (100% my fault)
Anyone have success using a SRAM pro bleed kit on Hayes Dominions? They both have the same fitting, but different thread depth as SRAM has the added O-ring.
I have both but would rather ask than try as these days my "workshop" is inside my condo and brake fluid squirting everywhere isn't ideal.
Anyone have success using a SRAM pro bleed kit on Hayes Dominions? They both have the same fitting, but different thread depth as SRAM has the...
Anyone have success using a SRAM pro bleed kit on Hayes Dominions? They both have the same fitting, but different thread depth as SRAM has the added O-ring.
I have both but would rather ask than try as these days my "workshop" is inside my condo and brake fluid squirting everywhere isn't ideal.
On mtbr forum some say that the SRAM kit works fine and others that it doesn't. Hayes fittings has more thread and fittings ends are shaped differently, its more like cone shaped. I would personally just get the Hayes kit, it's not cheap I know but you know it works. Just get some rags ready, bleed process gets some dot fluid out no matter what the bleed kit is.
I always wrap a wet rag around the master cylinder and leave just the bleed port exposed when bleeding my codes. That way any spillage is absorbed and deactivated by it.
I gave it a shot yesterday and bled with the SRAM Pro kit, worked great. Actually better than the Hayes kit which needs to be pliers tight otherwise it leaks. The little O-ring is helpful.
I gave it a shot yesterday and bled with the SRAM Pro kit, worked great. Actually better than the Hayes kit which needs to be pliers...
I gave it a shot yesterday and bled with the SRAM Pro kit, worked great. Actually better than the Hayes kit which needs to be pliers tight otherwise it leaks. The little O-ring is helpful.
While the thread is the same, be careful to not over-thread a SRAM fitting into a Hayes brake. I did that once when I owned them because people said it worked better due to the O-ring, and then ended up going past the threads on the brake and stripping them when trying to back off the fitting. Had to replace the lever and rebuild the caliper seals & pistons because metal shavings got in there.
Let me fix that for you: all Shimano calipers usually start leaking when stored in any position for an extended period of time.
I have two sets of saints and a set of xt that continually ruin brake pads. Codes and shiguras haven't had an issue with vertical storage for long periods of time
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
I’ve just fitted a set of GR4s. Only had a couple of rides so far but I’m seriously impressed. I was coming from code rsc, but have friends with T4V4 and T4E4. Initial impressions are they are giving me the increase in power I was after, without losing modulation, without a load of free stroke (which I didn’t like on my friends)
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
Do they still have the odd Hope geometry where the lever movement isn’t quite in line with the handlebar?
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and...
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
Oh yeah that's one of those things I remember feeling but never really thought about what was causing it! Makes sense but it did feel odd to me
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to...
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to...
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
How is the lever distance to put power down? For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever...
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
It's pretty short. I've been able to run the EVO's reach adjustment closer to the bar, because you can run a shorter dead stroke than on the T4 series, yet I have not felt like I'm going to run out of space for the lever throw once I'm into the proper braking power zone, if that makes sense. I'd say there's a little bit more "flex" after the bite point in the EVO compared to the Maven (difference in hose or caliper stiffness, or something to do with the seals, maybe?), but the power still comes on so strong that you don't have to go very deep into the stroke to generate it.
I got shipped a 100cm line but then accidentally cut it too short lmao
Intend accidentally sent me the old fittings with my brakes but quickly remedied that at no cost when I reached out. They even sent me a new hose when I mentioned I accidentally cut it too short (100% my fault)
Anyone have success using a SRAM pro bleed kit on Hayes Dominions? They both have the same fitting, but different thread depth as SRAM has the added O-ring.
I have both but would rather ask than try as these days my "workshop" is inside my condo and brake fluid squirting everywhere isn't ideal.
On mtbr forum some say that the SRAM kit works fine and others that it doesn't. Hayes fittings has more thread and fittings ends are shaped differently, its more like cone shaped. I would personally just get the Hayes kit, it's not cheap I know but you know it works. Just get some rags ready, bleed process gets some dot fluid out no matter what the bleed kit is.
I always wrap a wet rag around the master cylinder and leave just the bleed port exposed when bleeding my codes. That way any spillage is absorbed and deactivated by it.
I gave it a shot yesterday and bled with the SRAM Pro kit, worked great. Actually better than the Hayes kit which needs to be pliers tight otherwise it leaks. The little O-ring is helpful.
While the thread is the same, be careful to not over-thread a SRAM fitting into a Hayes brake. I did that once when I owned them because people said it worked better due to the O-ring, and then ended up going past the threads on the brake and stripping them when trying to back off the fitting. Had to replace the lever and rebuild the caliper seals & pistons because metal shavings got in there.
It looks like the new Hope brakes are available at US distributors now. Anyone got their hands on a set yet?
Anyone have issues with brake contamination when storing bikes vertically?
I stored my previous bike for probably over 3 years and then this one for half a year, never had an issue...
This hits the homepage tomorrow, but since it's live already, you forum guys get the early heads-up - here's our official EVO review (GR and TR both): https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/hydraulic-disc-brakes/hope-technology/evo-gr4-69746#product-reviews-683186.
I feel like this is going to be an expensive article to read.
Edit: I wasn't wrong but I haven't found them in stock anywhere in US apart from some obscure ebay dude.
Fanatik has GR4’s in stock now.
BTI has both in stock now, so any US bike shop should be able to order them for you.
Ugh... I may or may not have just dm'd my LBS to start inquiring about an off-season upgrade. lol
the cheap Shimano non series ones usually start leaking when stored vertically for some reason, other than that Not an Issue
Let me fix that for you: all Shimano calipers usually start leaking when stored in any position for an extended period of time.
Do they still have the odd Hope geometry where the lever movement isn’t quite in line with the handlebar?
Indeed they do.
These sound awesome. Almost wish I got these instead of my Intends
I have two sets of saints and a set of xt that continually ruin brake pads. Codes and shiguras haven't had an issue with vertical storage for long periods of time
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
🙉 can’t hear the truth
I need allll the power!
I’ve just fitted a set of GR4s. Only had a couple of rides so far but I’m seriously impressed. I was coming from code rsc, but have friends with T4V4 and T4E4. Initial impressions are they are giving me the increase in power I was after, without losing modulation, without a load of free stroke (which I didn’t like on my friends)
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
Oh yeah that's one of those things I remember feeling but never really thought about what was causing it! Makes sense but it did feel odd to me
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
It's pretty short. I've been able to run the EVO's reach adjustment closer to the bar, because you can run a shorter dead stroke than on the T4 series, yet I have not felt like I'm going to run out of space for the lever throw once I'm into the proper braking power zone, if that makes sense. I'd say there's a little bit more "flex" after the bite point in the EVO compared to the Maven (difference in hose or caliper stiffness, or something to do with the seals, maybe?), but the power still comes on so strong that you don't have to go very deep into the stroke to generate it.
Really like hope brakes, but absolutely hate the high pitch squeal. Does anybody have tricks/pad and rotor combinations that got rid of that squeal?
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