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Use the soft side of Velcro inside those hoops. I did that on a Dorado
I did the same on an Intend.
What about something like the Jagwire (or anyone else) cable sleeve deals that keep cables from rubbing on your frame:
Unless I am missing something, I doubt that would work. The brake hose needs to move freely in the guides when the fork compresses. Add a bit of a friction and it would kink (and possibly hit the spokes).
we need an industry deal with 3M I'd buy that velco tape by the foot 🤣
The sleeves would allow the cable to move freely but keep it from banging around on the plastic rings, same deal if you put a wee bit of electrical tape on the cable in key spots.
17cm of the hose need to move through the guides freely up and down without any drag. Lining the guides is IMO a much better way to go.
To be fair, the only democratic way to be sure is a dance off or a lip sync battle.
Yeah the soft velcro is the way I would go - adding something to the hose seems like it could catch on the way through, or it would get pushed down the hose and out of the way.
All-time post dude nice work 🙌
Tried the hall lock today. So much better. Shifting improved too, i guess because the horrible sloppiness in the GX bolt assembly went away. I filed down the B tension spacer from an old derailleur and used it instead of a shock hardware spacer. A little less thread overlap but the bolt head sits into it really nicely and feels bomber.
Maybe not fully relevant but I find that my Stumpjumper becomes much less noisy when I stuff an inner tube in the downtube. I guess its simply sound deadening, but interested to hear if anyone else had the same experience?
awesome to hear!! does exactly what it supposed to year after year, rider after rider.
rubber = sound deadening 🤫
If I can disable the hall lock without any real downsides, what am I missing? Why does the entire system exist in the first place? Might be a little silly question.
I recommend you watch Colin’s vid as he explains it there, but basically on a normal b-tension system you set the distance via a screw so that the derailleur cannot move closer to the cassette than you want. However, it’s still free to move away from the cassette, creating noise and makes shifting messier. The hall lock simply locks the derailleur in both directions. The new SRAM T-type derailleur are essentially hall locked which I suspect are a pretty big part of the performance upgrade after trying this out.
Anyone got tips for creaky coils? I have an Öhlins TTX22m.2 with original Öhlins spring and it’s become a creaky mfer for some reason.
When i remove the shock and cycle the suspension everything is fine. The coil is worn down to the metal in some parts on the inside from apparently rubbing on the shock body.
I tried the red washer from a sprindex so it can rotate more freely while compressing but didn’t really help (the washer was a tad too big, wps makes one for Öhlins inner diameter but not in stock anywhere).
Didn’t have this problem before, can coils deform and do they need to be renewed?
Had similar issues with ohlins, replaced it with a Ti spring and all is well.
In big boy car stuff, the spring perch can ride on a bearing. I'm surprised I've never seen it in mtb to be honest.
What kind of bike is it in? Is it a trunnion or clevis mount bike?
You can lightly sand the ends with some sandpaper (240-320ish) on some glass to flatten off any high spots, or a teflon washer is a good idea, you'll just need one that fits the ohlins - there are teflon backup rings in standard sizes which can work for this job, as long as its continous. Push use them in their shocks but they will be too small.
Some coils can fatigue over time but most modern steel springs are pretty good, with a few exceptions. I don't recommend titanium for this reason though, they can be very inconsistent. I would expect Ohlins to hold up but haven't measured any old ones to know for sure. springs often present with creaking issues from new though if they aren't properly square. It is often related to the frame, trunnion and clevis bikes create extra bending loads that twist the spring, especially with worn bearings
It's been done by a few people - I forget the brands off the top of my head but at least 2007 K9 industries did it I believe. mtb springs normally need something that can pivot or account for uneven mounting surfaces so a thrust bearing on its own doesn't 100% solve it
Just remembered WPS make spring washers - https://wps-mtb.com/products/performance-spring-adapters-spacers
EXT use delrin (?) plastic spacers that allow the spring to rotate, I think SAR use them too, much cheaper and better solution than an expensive needle bearing that is unsealed and will just get full of crud.
Yeah, I still have some of these from K9 . WRP was looking into selling some and I got one from him as well. It can help with creaking, but I’ve also had some make noise got into the bearing and then that made a noise. I didn’t really feel any performance advantage using the so I removed it.
Yeah i saw those but unfortunately the 36mm one is out of stock everywhere.
still have a lighter spring and a sprindex which also got creaky so I’ll try and isolate the issue a bit further.
Bike is a Madonna V2.2 which is on the third season so far. Had to switch 4 bearings in total i think but the others still look fine.
TF tuned have them too, but also just remember DVO springs are the same size - you get a stack of different heights with every spring so I have a mountain of them even 😅 should be easy to track a couple of them down.
It is possibly related to the frame - I couldn't quite tell if the shock uses the same 28 x 15 bearings as everywhere else, as those should be a good size but they do need to be mint to rotate properly under load. I do recall seeing a video review of someone testing a Raaw of some sort and had constant issues with the Fox DHX2 eyelet unscrewing - this is almost always a dead giveaway of some kind of side loading or binding from the frame. Check out Vorsprungs document on frame design guidelines for a couple of ways to test the bike for this
Hey question for ya!
Did you fish the pipe polyethylene pipe through the bottom bracket? Thinking about doing the same to my torrent.
I’m also thinking of just shoving a sponge up there.
Yes.
i managed to Jam That foam tubing up from the bottom, bit of lube spray, pushed and tugged which eventually worked its way in, going from the rear.
I cant remember if the torrent has headtube cutouts, Thats the easiest way for most bikes - just undo the lines and push them through those cut outs out those cutouts and out the top or bottom of headtube.
- it's been awhile since i did it, maybe i went through the headtube.🤷♂️
Thanks!
Thanks for replying! I’ll mess around with it and get something up there. The problem is the 5mm Tektro/TRP brake line is too big to get the Jagwire stuff through the cable cut out on the top or bottom. The shifter cable works though.
I might pull the bb and have a look.
FWIW I solved the TITS noise of brake hoses by threading paracord through the frame, running it parallel with the brake hoses. The cord provides sufficient cushioning / damping to kill the noise. There isn't enough clearance in the frame for the foam tubing.
Hmm I might pick your brain more with this.. Did you make a knot on the opening on the top and run it tight to the bottom and tied it off? Or were you able to wrap the paracord around the brake line? Just having a hard time figuring out why the paracord is silencing it.
I currently have it shrink wrapped with zip ties on the top/bottom to keep the brake line as tight as possible. It’s pretty close to totally silent but sometimes it get a little noisy.
This is one of the techniques I used a while ago....
Also wondered about something like this, but haven't given it too much thought and could be a massive pain!
Post a reply to: Silent Bikes - What tricks do you have to keep your bike quiet through the season?