Good stuff in this thread, I also love a quiet bike. In addition to what's been said here:
- Secure brake/shifty cables together, including the ones coming from opposide side of the bars. They like to clack together. A little ziptie and/or Tesa/fabric tape.
- Hall-lock your derailleur so the b-pivot can't rotate. HUGE improvement.
- Jagwire housing foam inside frame where housing can rattle. A roll will last a lifetime.
- Rear hubs are Newmen (hard to source in N America) or DT350/36t with the right amount of grease.
Now I just need to figure out how to keep CSUs from making that disturbingly loud creaky, clacky sound after a year.
haha, I should have given more context I guess, that's what I get for posting on my phone while using the bathroom. his right side crank...
haha, I should have given more context I guess, that's what I get for posting on my phone while using the bathroom.
his right side crank arm looks like the below photo (not a photo of his, just another from a megatower 2 thread), since I ride left foot back, my right side crank arm isn't in the line of fire. We did all of the pre-cursor checks of failed derailleur clutch etc. I don't have nearly this much lower chain slap/tension issues on my n6 as he does, but I run an ochain and also ride goofy, so not really comparable.
Ah that makes sense! I do a lot of my best work from that same location. Does the mega have a funky chainline or something? I'm...
Ah that makes sense! I do a lot of my best work from that same location. Does the mega have a funky chainline or something? I'm left foot forward as well and haven't had that issue with my bikes.
mega has an awkward axlepath, nothing wrong with it. just prone to noise when suspension is moving
Good stuff in this thread, I also love a quiet bike. In addition to what's been said here:- Secure brake/shifty cables together, including the ones coming...
Good stuff in this thread, I also love a quiet bike. In addition to what's been said here:
- Secure brake/shifty cables together, including the ones coming from opposide side of the bars. They like to clack together. A little ziptie and/or Tesa/fabric tape.
- Hall-lock your derailleur so the b-pivot can't rotate. HUGE improvement.
- Jagwire housing foam inside frame where housing can rattle. A roll will last a lifetime.
- Rear hubs are Newmen (hard to source in N America) or DT350/36t with the right amount of grease.
Now I just need to figure out how to keep CSUs from making that disturbingly loud creaky, clacky sound after a year.
also got that. loctite 638 slipfit retaining compound. you'll need some downtime but this worked for TWO factory 38's i had, both 21' before they fixed this issue... heres the first of four fox 38 forks I've had. this one was warrantied. the next 2 i loctited myself, current 4th one is still dialed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZVQf9RZN6Q
EDIT i just realized i was wearing a Vital MTB shirt haha!!
wash the bike and flip it over. then use some brake parts cleaner followed by isopropyl alcohol, on all 3 spots of the crown (2 stanchions and steerer tube) really spend some time cleaning this area, hit it with compressed air, fully dry it, use a pick to get dirt out if needed. prop a shoebox or helmet under your handlebars so the fork is straight up & down. douse the press fit areas and wait. 24hr for me. (heat up the crown first with heat gun for bonus points)
Regarding using anti-seize compound or copper paste (ti prep?) for fitting stuff in the frame, I was wondering about that, since the copper ti-prep has got...
Regarding using anti-seize compound or copper paste (ti prep?) for fitting stuff in the frame, I was wondering about that, since the copper ti-prep has got to be the single hardest "grease" in my workbench to clean up. Would you guys use it on IS-type headsets (bearing pressed directly into carbon frame cup)? I currently use marine grease for that, which is fine for resisting water ingress but isn't as sticky as like ASC or ti-prep.
I wouldn't use copper or moly grease on a carbon frame - the additives can react with the carbon, so either a thick marine grease or something with teflon would be better (ideally avoid teflon if an alternative is available, but it does work really well sometimes)
For me, STFU works. I lined mine with Velcro tape as the trail version is designed for 12sp drivetrain and my 11sp XX1 cassette doesn't require as much chain clearance.
🤣 need to lockout mech and get a lower guide! asap!
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running them on lots of things.
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running...
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running them on lots of things.
Looking at the title of my post I should have expected this to turn into a full on "how to make your bike ninja silent" post (which is great) but that wasn't my initial intent. If it was, I would have been pimping my own product from the start
- www.ralibike.com is @Dave_Camp and myself's little side project. We obviously are biased so we'll let others chime in on these types of products.
In that vein, with respect to drivetrain noise, we've both spent over a year playing with various ideas, and both agree that adding a lower pulley to your guide is a great way to further quiet your bike. We've built a few prototype guides that are as low drag as possible and allows the user to take the bottom pulley off with one bolt. In any case, anyone really cares about quiet, a lower pulley guide of some sort is a must have IMO.
Few other thoughts... -Hall locking your derailleur really helps -I add foam to my in frame storage. It really helps keep things from rattling around.
Thanks to all who have contributed with respect to various compounds/products to help keep pivots, headsets, etc quiet through the year. Exactly what I was hoping to see!
@jeff.brines Is it possible to use RaliMag with just the magnetic part? I'm hesitant to take off the entire chainstay protector on my Nomad because it protects the side and bottom as well. I was thinking of leaving it on and cutting off the stock protector's fins in the spot to mount the RaliMag.
For the lower guide, it'd be cool if you made it as an addon part to an existing bash guide (like OneUp), using the mount holes for the replaceable plastic bash.
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running...
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running them on lots of things.
i ran it on my past 'non high-pivot bikes' being a yeti sb150 and megatowers i owned. extremely effective but those bikes need a lot of work arounf the chain/seat stays to keep em quiet. i ended up using foam tape from home depot (garage seal foam tape) and going over it with flex tape again. bike was still noisy but nowhere near stock.
Deviate is even great in stock form. could just slap a lower guide on it and it does wonders. I'm a little more anal than that though aha
Looking at the title of my post I should have expected this to turn into a full on "how to make your bike ninja silent" post...
Looking at the title of my post I should have expected this to turn into a full on "how to make your bike ninja silent" post (which is great) but that wasn't my initial intent. If it was, I would have been pimping my own product from the start
- www.ralibike.com is @Dave_Camp and myself's little side project. We obviously are biased so we'll let others chime in on these types of products.
In that vein, with respect to drivetrain noise, we've both spent over a year playing with various ideas, and both agree that adding a lower pulley to your guide is a great way to further quiet your bike. We've built a few prototype guides that are as low drag as possible and allows the user to take the bottom pulley off with one bolt. In any case, anyone really cares about quiet, a lower pulley guide of some sort is a must have IMO.
Few other thoughts... -Hall locking your derailleur really helps -I add foam to my in frame storage. It really helps keep things from rattling around.
Thanks to all who have contributed with respect to various compounds/products to help keep pivots, headsets, etc quiet through the year. Exactly what I was hoping to see!
Steel frame, externally routed cables, it's extremely quiet. Starting to creak a bit after 2 years but I suspect it's my overdue bearing swap. I want an Onyx wheelset so fkn bad.
What other lower pulley guides are worth considering besides MRP mxg and Deviate that have large pulleys?
Tips on orientation? I know the Slash had very particular placement, is there a way to figure out the best place?
I assume there is some benefit to not having the derailleur fight the clutch every suspension cycle, even though @CascadeComponents commented somewhere it is probably not significant. I know I could feel my clutch on my Range
@jeff.brines Is it possible to use RaliMag with just the magnetic part? I'm hesitant to take off the entire chainstay protector on my Nomad because it...
@jeff.brines Is it possible to use RaliMag with just the magnetic part? I'm hesitant to take off the entire chainstay protector on my Nomad because it protects the side and bottom as well. I was thinking of leaving it on and cutting off the stock protector's fins in the spot to mount the RaliMag.
For the lower guide, it'd be cool if you made it as an addon part to an existing bash guide (like OneUp), using the mount holes for the replaceable plastic bash.
Good question.
Question 1: Short answer, no. At least right now. One option you would always have is to cut your existing protection and use some 2 sided tape to glue it back on so you still have protection and you have the Chainmag. Alternatively, you could just run some clear Guerilla tape which is super good at protecting frames (this is what I personally do).
Question 2: Literally started looking at this a few nights ago. My new bike came with a OneUp and there are a few really easy ways to potentially build a lower pully that easily bolts on (and off). We have a roller that we feel is better than a cog from a friction standpoint (there is some cleverness ot the roller, too). I wonder how many people out there have OneUps who would go to this setup? Probably not that many, eh?
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag internals. Bought it for the added suspension performance, love the silent treatment it gives my bike.
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag...
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag internals. Bought it for the added suspension performance, love the silent treatment it gives my bike.
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag...
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag internals. Bought it for the added suspension performance, love the silent treatment it gives my bike.
At that price I would rather buy tairin hub for only a bit more money.
Really want to try the Tairin hub as well, but you can score some good secondhand prices for the DT Hubs and it makes swapping bikes and wheelset a breeze.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run...
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run...
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run...
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
2 things on this idea.1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be...
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
Interesting takes. Curious, any idea what kinda foam Spank and maybe even the old/early 90s Bianchi Reparto Course frames used?
2 things on this idea.1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be...
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
What? Actual knowledge? You can't just go spreading that stuff around here all willy nilly... You never know what could happen.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run...
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
2 things on this idea.1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be...
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
Interesting takes. Curious, any idea what kinda foam Spank and maybe even the old/early 90s Bianchi Reparto Course frames used?
I can't say what Bianchi did. I have seen the foam that spank used for their vibracore products once when viewing a cut-away of it at sea otter many years ago. That was a closed cell foam (polyurethane) which is exactly what great stuff is. I'd honestly be tempted to use a more open cell product, as open cell provides some ability for air to move through the hardened foam structure (as well as moisture I suppose). Closed cell is mostly what it used for these products because closed cell has a better insulation (R-value) value where open cell foam is technically better for sound insulation.
To be frank, I haven't done a ton of research on open cell polyurethane foam insulation products because we just don't use it that often in my industry. We're typically looking for a high R-value and thus our search ends at closed cell.
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run...
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
2 things on this idea.1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be...
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
And you would have a nightmare on your hands if it ever needed removing for any reason.
Good stuff in this thread, I also love a quiet bike. In addition to what's been said here:
- Secure brake/shifty cables together, including the ones coming from opposide side of the bars. They like to clack together. A little ziptie and/or Tesa/fabric tape.
- Hall-lock your derailleur so the b-pivot can't rotate. HUGE improvement.
- Jagwire housing foam inside frame where housing can rattle. A roll will last a lifetime.
- Rear hubs are Newmen (hard to source in N America) or DT350/36t with the right amount of grease.
Now I just need to figure out how to keep CSUs from making that disturbingly loud creaky, clacky sound after a year.
mega has an awkward axlepath, nothing wrong with it. just prone to noise when suspension is moving
The chain should move side to side enough to hit the crank, that's very unusual and I would expect him dropping chain often it that's the case.
also got that. loctite 638 slipfit retaining compound. you'll need some downtime but this worked for TWO factory 38's i had, both 21' before they fixed this issue... heres the first of four fox 38 forks I've had. this one was warrantied. the next 2 i loctited myself, current 4th one is still dialed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZVQf9RZN6Q
EDIT i just realized i was wearing a Vital MTB shirt haha!!
wash the bike and flip it over. then use some brake parts cleaner followed by isopropyl alcohol, on all 3 spots of the crown (2 stanchions and steerer tube) really spend some time cleaning this area, hit it with compressed air, fully dry it, use a pick to get dirt out if needed. prop a shoebox or helmet under your handlebars so the fork is straight up & down. douse the press fit areas and wait. 24hr for me. (heat up the crown first with heat gun for bonus points)
good luck!!
🤣 need to lockout mech and get a lower guide! asap!
https://www.ralibike.com these seem solid. My buddy has and enjoys it
I wouldn't use copper or moly grease on a carbon frame - the additives can react with the carbon, so either a thick marine grease or something with teflon would be better (ideally avoid teflon if an alternative is available, but it does work really well sometimes)
A high engagement hub. Chain bounce engages the hub and the lower the engagement, the louder the hub is when it engages. This is with an o chain too.
For me, STFU works. I lined mine with Velcro tape as the trail version is designed for 12sp drivetrain and my 11sp XX1 cassette doesn't require as much chain clearance.
How’s the lower guide on a non high pivot? Worthwhile? I’ve been imagining it would have positive results lately so cool to hear people are running them on lots of things.
Quiter that's for sure.
Looking at the title of my post I should have expected this to turn into a full on "how to make your bike ninja silent" post (which is great) but that wasn't my initial intent. If it was, I would have been pimping my own product from the start
- www.ralibike.com is @Dave_Camp and myself's little side project. We obviously are biased so we'll let others chime in on these types of products.
In that vein, with respect to drivetrain noise, we've both spent over a year playing with various ideas, and both agree that adding a lower pulley to your guide is a great way to further quiet your bike. We've built a few prototype guides that are as low drag as possible and allows the user to take the bottom pulley off with one bolt. In any case, anyone really cares about quiet, a lower pulley guide of some sort is a must have IMO.
Few other thoughts...
-Hall locking your derailleur really helps
-I add foam to my in frame storage. It really helps keep things from rattling around.
Thanks to all who have contributed with respect to various compounds/products to help keep pivots, headsets, etc quiet through the year. Exactly what I was hoping to see!
@jeff.brines Is it possible to use RaliMag with just the magnetic part? I'm hesitant to take off the entire chainstay protector on my Nomad because it protects the side and bottom as well. I was thinking of leaving it on and cutting off the stock protector's fins in the spot to mount the RaliMag.
For the lower guide, it'd be cool if you made it as an addon part to an existing bash guide (like OneUp), using the mount holes for the replaceable plastic bash.
i ran it on my past 'non high-pivot bikes' being a yeti sb150 and megatowers i owned. extremely effective but those bikes need a lot of work arounf the chain/seat stays to keep em quiet. i ended up using foam tape from home depot (garage seal foam tape) and going over it with flex tape again. bike was still noisy but nowhere near stock.
Deviate is even great in stock form. could just slap a lower guide on it and it does wonders. I'm a little more anal than that though aha
good stuff! fun reading that's for sure!
Steel frame, externally routed cables, it's extremely quiet. Starting to creak a bit after 2 years but I suspect it's my overdue bearing swap. I want an Onyx wheelset so fkn bad.
What other lower pulley guides are worth considering besides MRP mxg and Deviate that have large pulleys?
Tips on orientation? I know the Slash had very particular placement, is there a way to figure out the best place?
I assume there is some benefit to not having the derailleur fight the clutch every suspension cycle, even though @CascadeComponents commented somewhere it is probably not significant. I know I could feel my clutch on my Range
Good question.
Question 1: Short answer, no. At least right now. One option you would always have is to cut your existing protection and use some 2 sided tape to glue it back on so you still have protection and you have the Chainmag. Alternatively, you could just run some clear Guerilla tape which is super good at protecting frames (this is what I personally do).
Question 2: Literally started looking at this a few nights ago. My new bike came with a OneUp and there are a few really easy ways to potentially build a lower pully that easily bolts on (and off). We have a roller that we feel is better than a cog from a friction standpoint (there is some cleverness ot the roller, too). I wonder how many people out there have OneUps who would go to this setup? Probably not that many, eh?
For all the drivetrain noise fighters out there: Get any DT Swiss hub (even the hated 370 apparently) and upgrade it with the WRP Zero drag internals. Bought it for the added suspension performance, love the silent treatment it gives my bike.
https://www.williamsracingproducts.com/shop/p/zero-drag-dt-swiss-intern…
At that price I would rather buy tairin hub for only a bit more money.
Really want to try the Tairin hub as well, but you can score some good secondhand prices for the DT Hubs and it makes swapping bikes and wheelset a breeze.
Rali plus an STFU in the back would be an awesome combo! cut one or two of the back pieces and mount an STFU there
Contemplating making my own 'tube in tube' routing by using great stuff spray foam in the stays and downtube. Idea is to pull existing lines, run 5mm housing through the ports, then spray the foam. Maybe locate tubing that will allow the der and brake lines to run through it so I won't have to worry about the foam catching replacement housing/brake lines. My Status is pretty quiet, but my Trance X sounds like a bad glockenspiel when running fast thru chunder.
Please do this.
2 things on this idea.
1) Spray expanding foam puts more pressure on the outside of a (mostly) sealed vessle then you would think. I would be very concerned about it hardening up in such a way where the overflow (ports) sealed up prior to the expansion/hardening of the material. This would for sure, impact the shaping of the tubes (for sure carbon, maybe not so much aluminum but giant's aluminum is very thin & hydroformed) and would definitely impact stiffness and structural integrity.
2) While carbon and aluminum do not generally have issues being exposed to wet/water and rusting... they don't particularly deal well with dissimilar materials when ionized water is present. This means that the foam will trap water inside the frame and it will promote galvanic corrosion of dissimilar materials such as, frame pivots/bolts/axles/inserts, bearings, seat posts, bb shells etc. This would start out ok, and end badly fairly quickly.
That being said, spray foam insulation is compatible with carbon fiber and carbon fiber resins. We have used high end commercial spray foam in some carbon fiber assemblies in commercial construction and I have done exhaustive research on compatibilities... on that front, you are good to go.
Constipated frame - I didn't have that on my bingo card.
I may try to thread some paracord through the TITs to dampen the cables a bit.
Interesting takes. Curious, any idea what kinda foam Spank and maybe even the old/early 90s Bianchi Reparto Course frames used?
What? Actual knowledge? You can't just go spreading that stuff around here all willy nilly... You never know what could happen.
I can't say what Bianchi did. I have seen the foam that spank used for their vibracore products once when viewing a cut-away of it at sea otter many years ago. That was a closed cell foam (polyurethane) which is exactly what great stuff is. I'd honestly be tempted to use a more open cell product, as open cell provides some ability for air to move through the hardened foam structure (as well as moisture I suppose). Closed cell is mostly what it used for these products because closed cell has a better insulation (R-value) value where open cell foam is technically better for sound insulation.
To be frank, I haven't done a ton of research on open cell polyurethane foam insulation products because we just don't use it that often in my industry. We're typically looking for a high R-value and thus our search ends at closed cell.
And you would have a nightmare on your hands if it ever needed removing for any reason.
Post a reply to: Silent Bikes - What tricks do you have to keep your bike quiet through the season?