I have only used my V4 brakes with narrower rotors, but it works fine with the 1.8mm and 2.3mm rotors I have used. The vented rotors are way too expensive for a consumable part.
Yes, front seems worse but i assume from more braking load.Everything brand new, I did a lever bleed only before i changed them out and to...
Yes, front seems worse but i assume from more braking load.
Everything brand new, I did a lever bleed only before i changed them out and to push piston back due to 2mm rotors.(used a brand new tyre lever)
latest Canyon torque CF with a fox 38.
Everything was clean and ensured Calipers were tight.
Both ends of the bike is really weird. I'd focus on the front and change things there. Will drive you less crazy to focus on one at a time and the front is easier to get smooth and quiet in my experience.
For whatever reason, and more commonly on the rear because you've got the frame involved, combinations of calipers, pads, and rotors just resonate and vibrate more easily. Sometime changing the type of rotor or pad will fix it for no real discernible reason. I'd try that if resurfacing and bedding doesn't work.
Good luck. I hate chasing sh!t like this round and round. Can be really frustrating.
only one things is effectively wrong, the inconsistent bleeding is user error, just by looking at the membrane you can easily understand how you should roll...
only one things is effectively wrong, the inconsistent bleeding is user error, just by looking at the membrane you can easily understand how you should roll it to not trap any air, and the opposite has been done, but agree on the rest, even if even the Hope statement that there's no difference between the normal hose and the braided one is bullshit, the latter is way stiffer and gives a much firmer bite point.
I mean, this ain’t pinkbike, what’s the dislike for 😂
I mean, this ain’t pinkbike, what’s the dislike for 😂
Did I hurt anyone feeling by saying the truth?
Alot of pinkbikers are now on vital aswell, which sucks. a workplace saying now is: "the grass is greener on the other side because you are not over there F^%king it up"
Question for the nerds, I dont have trouble with Brakes, generally ever But i picked up a bike with 4 piston XT m8120's(brand new bike)I swapped...
Question for the nerds, I dont have trouble with Brakes, generally ever But i picked up a bike with 4 piston XT m8120's(brand new bike)
I swapped out the pads to shimano metal(non finned) and Galfer Wave rotors (223 and 203) - ensured perfect alignment and equal piston movement to hit at the same time Bedded them in via normal process on a hill i live on(like i do with every other bed in process)
Initially the brakes Grabbed really hard But after a couple of trails the perfomance fell off and was bad vibration, the Hummmm sound and could feel it through the bars - they still worked and didnt have that contamination feel or sound.(both front and rear)
checked pads, rotors and caliper and no oil or anything - went for anther ride and same performance, strong to start but heavy braking and vibration and performance falls off at same time
theres no oil from pistons or leaking etc 2 very high end botique shops(1 ex WC mechanic) checked them and they couldnt find an issue.
the pads and the rotors look perfect - it's so weird, they go fine but under heavy braking they vibrate and the performance falls off each time
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to run on the rotor arms. Light-med braking may not create a vibe but harder pulls will as you may be getting a little bit extra stopping power each time the arm passes through the pad, and that extra bite causes the vibration. Check the rotor wear marks on the little triangle transition from the brake track to the arm and compare it to the wear mark that lines with the outside/top of the pad/outer diameter of the rotor. I've seen mounts that were off and AM rotors where the brake track wasn't 100% spot on with the brake. Additionally, the pad running over the arm in those hard brake actions can cause the pads to push back the piston ever so minimally, resulting in an inconsistent brake feel. If you can check to a stock Shimano rotor that would be ideal.
Another potential that would be harder to diagnose: inconsistent rotor thickness. Seen that back on old Hayes OG V7/178mm rotors and Tektros a coupla times. A slight high or low spot will change brake force and cause vibration. Worst examples can lead to a pulse in the lever blade during actuation. It doesn't take much, just a couple thousandths of a mm. That would be related to the grinding op at manufacture so would be considered a defect. Again, comparing to a stock Shimano unit would likely suss that out.
Next potential culprit is a bad bed in. Poor bed in can lead to inconsistent pad material deposition, which can create vibration. I don't think that's the case here, but it's worth mentioning. The second we think/act like we always do things right is generally when the time is ripe for us to prove ourselves incorrect.
Question for the nerds, I dont have trouble with Brakes, generally ever But i picked up a bike with 4 piston XT m8120's(brand new bike)I swapped...
Question for the nerds, I dont have trouble with Brakes, generally ever But i picked up a bike with 4 piston XT m8120's(brand new bike)
I swapped out the pads to shimano metal(non finned) and Galfer Wave rotors (223 and 203) - ensured perfect alignment and equal piston movement to hit at the same time Bedded them in via normal process on a hill i live on(like i do with every other bed in process)
Initially the brakes Grabbed really hard But after a couple of trails the perfomance fell off and was bad vibration, the Hummmm sound and could feel it through the bars - they still worked and didnt have that contamination feel or sound.(both front and rear)
checked pads, rotors and caliper and no oil or anything - went for anther ride and same performance, strong to start but heavy braking and vibration and performance falls off at same time
theres no oil from pistons or leaking etc 2 very high end botique shops(1 ex WC mechanic) checked them and they couldnt find an issue.
the pads and the rotors look perfect - it's so weird, they go fine but under heavy braking they vibrate and the performance falls off each time
I'd also suggest trying them with different rotors. I just swapped from Galfer Sharks to Waves on one of my bikes (to move the Sharks to a more desirable new bike), and noticed there's a LOT more vibration/feedback from the Waves. This is with Mavens & Galfer Purple pads. No noise, but it definitely feels very different.
Alot of pinkbikers are now on vital aswell, which sucks.a workplace saying now is: "the grass is greener on the other side because you are not...
Alot of pinkbikers are now on vital aswell, which sucks. a workplace saying now is: "the grass is greener on the other side because you are not over there F^%king it up"
Pinkbike is where you go to stir the pot, Vital is where you go for real discussion.
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to...
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to run on the rotor arms. Light-med braking may not create a vibe but harder pulls will as you may be getting a little bit extra stopping power each time the arm passes through the pad, and that extra bite causes the vibration. Check the rotor wear marks on the little triangle transition from the brake track to the arm and compare it to the wear mark that lines with the outside/top of the pad/outer diameter of the rotor. I've seen mounts that were off and AM rotors where the brake track wasn't 100% spot on with the brake. Additionally, the pad running over the arm in those hard brake actions can cause the pads to push back the piston ever so minimally, resulting in an inconsistent brake feel. If you can check to a stock Shimano rotor that would be ideal.
Another potential that would be harder to diagnose: inconsistent rotor thickness. Seen that back on old Hayes OG V7/178mm rotors and Tektros a coupla times. A slight high or low spot will change brake force and cause vibration. Worst examples can lead to a pulse in the lever blade during actuation. It doesn't take much, just a couple thousandths of a mm. That would be related to the grinding op at manufacture so would be considered a defect. Again, comparing to a stock Shimano unit would likely suss that out.
Next potential culprit is a bad bed in. Poor bed in can lead to inconsistent pad material deposition, which can create vibration. I don't think that's the case here, but it's worth mentioning. The second we think/act like we always do things right is generally when the time is ripe for us to prove ourselves incorrect.
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting pulse/vibration from the pads hitting the six rotor spokes inside of the intended braking surface and another time from b) bad bed-in process that resulted in a little too much pad material left on one or two spots on the rotor, creating a bump and then vibration/howling. Both situations resulted in perfectly grabby brakes at first but then overheating and sub-optimal braking on longer descents. Problem A was solved by running a 1.5mm spacer under the caliper (203 rotors on 200mm PM) and in the other situation Problem B was solved by being extra careful to not lock up the brakes or even come close during the bedding process. I think the Shimano metal pad material can be perhaps too eager to deposit itself onto a new rotor, which can result in an inconsistent bump on the rotor, but that's a dumb uneducated guess.
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to...
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to run on the rotor arms. Light-med braking may not create a vibe but harder pulls will as you may be getting a little bit extra stopping power each time the arm passes through the pad, and that extra bite causes the vibration. Check the rotor wear marks on the little triangle transition from the brake track to the arm and compare it to the wear mark that lines with the outside/top of the pad/outer diameter of the rotor. I've seen mounts that were off and AM rotors where the brake track wasn't 100% spot on with the brake. Additionally, the pad running over the arm in those hard brake actions can cause the pads to push back the piston ever so minimally, resulting in an inconsistent brake feel. If you can check to a stock Shimano rotor that would be ideal.
Another potential that would be harder to diagnose: inconsistent rotor thickness. Seen that back on old Hayes OG V7/178mm rotors and Tektros a coupla times. A slight high or low spot will change brake force and cause vibration. Worst examples can lead to a pulse in the lever blade during actuation. It doesn't take much, just a couple thousandths of a mm. That would be related to the grinding op at manufacture so would be considered a defect. Again, comparing to a stock Shimano unit would likely suss that out.
Next potential culprit is a bad bed in. Poor bed in can lead to inconsistent pad material deposition, which can create vibration. I don't think that's the case here, but it's worth mentioning. The second we think/act like we always do things right is generally when the time is ripe for us to prove ourselves incorrect.
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting...
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting pulse/vibration from the pads hitting the six rotor spokes inside of the intended braking surface and another time from b) bad bed-in process that resulted in a little too much pad material left on one or two spots on the rotor, creating a bump and then vibration/howling. Both situations resulted in perfectly grabby brakes at first but then overheating and sub-optimal braking on longer descents. Problem A was solved by running a 1.5mm spacer under the caliper (203 rotors on 200mm PM) and in the other situation Problem B was solved by being extra careful to not lock up the brakes or even come close during the bedding process. I think the Shimano metal pad material can be perhaps too eager to deposit itself onto a new rotor, which can result in an inconsistent bump on the rotor, but that's a dumb uneducated guess.
Thanks. Been guilty of a bad bed in myself a couple times. I try not to throw suggestions out that involve throwing money at the problem without first fully understanding what the problem is. I was thinking about the Wave rotors a bit more. Those jobbers have awfully large cutouts in the brake track, which has me wondering if there's potential for the pad to 'fall' into the cutouts under harder braking events. That could create a vibration and again cause an inconsistent brake feel due to the pistons advancing and getting pushed back under each pass. But I'm not about to drop a hundred+ bucks to get a rotor to find out. That's something @noideamtber can check into easily enough.
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to...
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to run on the rotor arms. Light-med braking may not create a vibe but harder pulls will as you may be getting a little bit extra stopping power each time the arm passes through the pad, and that extra bite causes the vibration. Check the rotor wear marks on the little triangle transition from the brake track to the arm and compare it to the wear mark that lines with the outside/top of the pad/outer diameter of the rotor. I've seen mounts that were off and AM rotors where the brake track wasn't 100% spot on with the brake. Additionally, the pad running over the arm in those hard brake actions can cause the pads to push back the piston ever so minimally, resulting in an inconsistent brake feel. If you can check to a stock Shimano rotor that would be ideal.
Another potential that would be harder to diagnose: inconsistent rotor thickness. Seen that back on old Hayes OG V7/178mm rotors and Tektros a coupla times. A slight high or low spot will change brake force and cause vibration. Worst examples can lead to a pulse in the lever blade during actuation. It doesn't take much, just a couple thousandths of a mm. That would be related to the grinding op at manufacture so would be considered a defect. Again, comparing to a stock Shimano unit would likely suss that out.
Next potential culprit is a bad bed in. Poor bed in can lead to inconsistent pad material deposition, which can create vibration. I don't think that's the case here, but it's worth mentioning. The second we think/act like we always do things right is generally when the time is ripe for us to prove ourselves incorrect.
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting...
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting pulse/vibration from the pads hitting the six rotor spokes inside of the intended braking surface and another time from b) bad bed-in process that resulted in a little too much pad material left on one or two spots on the rotor, creating a bump and then vibration/howling. Both situations resulted in perfectly grabby brakes at first but then overheating and sub-optimal braking on longer descents. Problem A was solved by running a 1.5mm spacer under the caliper (203 rotors on 200mm PM) and in the other situation Problem B was solved by being extra careful to not lock up the brakes or even come close during the bedding process. I think the Shimano metal pad material can be perhaps too eager to deposit itself onto a new rotor, which can result in an inconsistent bump on the rotor, but that's a dumb uneducated guess.
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around these days right?) and use a sensor app like sensorlog (iphone), physics toolbox or I think the arduino app to record vibration and speed - you can use FFT analysis (some of those apps have it built in) to get the frequency of the pulsing, which combined with the speed & wheel diameter you can figure out if it matches the number of spokes in the rotor
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around...
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around these days right?) and use a sensor app like sensorlog (iphone), physics toolbox or I think the arduino app to record vibration and speed - you can use FFT analysis (some of those apps have it built in) to get the frequency of the pulsing, which combined with the speed & wheel diameter you can figure out if it matches the number of spokes in the rotor
TLDR: - Motive replaces Code and Level, becoming the do-everything brake, from XC to all mountain. There are Bronze ($175), Silver ($225), and Ultimate ($275) models, as well as the Ultimate Expert Kit ($599). - No more 2-piston calipers, everything is 4-piston. - ALL BRAKES USE MINERAL OIL NOW. - DB grows to 3 models—DB8, 6, and 4. They're the cheap brakes for most types of riding. - There is a new Maven 'Base' model ($185). It's the entry-level, user-friendly Maven that shouldn't be as powerful. - Maven remains unchanged, and there is a new Ultimate Expert Kit as well ($599).
TLDR: - Motive replaces Code and Level, becoming the do-everything brake, from XC to all mountain. There are Bronze ($175), Silver ($225), and Ultimate ($275) models, as well as the Ultimate Expert Kit ($599). - No more 2-piston calipers, everything is 4-piston. - ALL BRAKES USE MINERAL OIL NOW. - DB grows to 3 models—DB8, 6, and 4. They're the cheap brakes for most types of riding. - There is a new Maven 'Base' model ($185). It's the entry-level, user-friendly Maven that shouldn't be as powerful. - Maven remains unchanged, and there is a new Ultimate Expert Kit as well ($599).
The motives seem like a big miss on Srams part to me. Back to a more vague lever feel, less powerful than the Codes, just doesn't make a lot of sense.
It would be spot on if it was a pure xc brake and really light. But seems possibly underwhelming for a trailbike, but now there’s nothing in the lineup between this and mavens. Seems like they should be lighter or stronger
Sram also released the maven base today. No swing link, dual 18mm pistons (ILO 18 and 19.5 on bronze/silver/ult). I'm sure this brake will proliferate all sub 10k builds, similarly to how it has with SC's new builds. Pretty lame tbh... the piston size thing makes just upgrading your brakes with maven silver lever assemblies questionable.
Less power then codes is not enough power for trail biking where I live fwiw. My minimum brake is code, metallic pads and 200mm hs2 rotors and that can be really pushing it on some of the big mountain descents we have here.
Motive calipers seem to be identical to DB8 calipers with the exception of two of the models use a banjo instead of compression fitting. DB8 calipers are pretty much Code calipers with a compression fitting and different aesthetics. So the difference in performance really comes down to the levers.
Motive calipers seem to be identical to DB8 calipers with the exception of two of the models use a banjo instead of compression fitting. DB8 calipers...
Motive calipers seem to be identical to DB8 calipers with the exception of two of the models use a banjo instead of compression fitting. DB8 calipers are pretty much Code calipers with a compression fitting and different aesthetics. So the difference in performance really comes down to the levers.
That does seem to be the case here.
And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes on my older DH bike. Both have the same caliper, but the addition of the zrace levers have definitely netted a more powerful brake on my trail bike than the DH rig
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around...
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around these days right?) and use a sensor app like sensorlog (iphone), physics toolbox or I think the arduino app to record vibration and speed - you can use FFT analysis (some of those apps have it built in) to get the frequency of the pulsing, which combined with the speed & wheel diameter you can figure out if it matches the number of spokes in the rotor
That does seem to be the case here. And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes...
That does seem to be the case here.
And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes on my older DH bike. Both have the same caliper, but the addition of the zrace levers have definitely netted a more powerful brake on my trail bike than the DH rig
What are zrace levers? I’m getting new brakes for my trail bike and intrigued with this idea
That does seem to be the case here. And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes...
That does seem to be the case here.
And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes on my older DH bike. Both have the same caliper, but the addition of the zrace levers have definitely netted a more powerful brake on my trail bike than the DH rig
That does seem to be the case here. And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes...
That does seem to be the case here.
And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes on my older DH bike. Both have the same caliper, but the addition of the zrace levers have definitely netted a more powerful brake on my trail bike than the DH rig
Less power then codes is not enough power for trail biking where I live fwiw. My minimum brake is code, metallic pads and 200mm hs2 rotors...
Less power then codes is not enough power for trail biking where I live fwiw. My minimum brake is code, metallic pads and 200mm hs2 rotors and that can be really pushing it on some of the big mountain descents we have here.
Going off SRAM's marketing materials, wouldn't that make you a DB8 customer? In terms of brake power, it seems like the new SRAM heirarchy is:
1. Maven Ult/Silver/Bronze
2. Maven base (no swinglink, slightly smaller pistons)
3. DB8
4. DB4/6
5. Motive (no swinglink)
I'm testing the DB8 for Vital right now and loving it. I can see why that would be a bummer if you've absolutely gotta have a bearing pivot in your brake levers, but it seems like if the Motive isn't enough brake for you than any other brake in the SRAM lineup would give you more power.
I have only used my V4 brakes with narrower rotors, but it works fine with the 1.8mm and 2.3mm rotors I have used. The vented rotors are way too expensive for a consumable part.
Both ends of the bike is really weird. I'd focus on the front and change things there. Will drive you less crazy to focus on one at a time and the front is easier to get smooth and quiet in my experience.
For whatever reason, and more commonly on the rear because you've got the frame involved, combinations of calipers, pads, and rotors just resonate and vibrate more easily. Sometime changing the type of rotor or pad will fix it for no real discernible reason. I'd try that if resurfacing and bedding doesn't work.
Good luck. I hate chasing sh!t like this round and round. Can be really frustrating.
I mean, this ain’t pinkbike, what’s the dislike for 😂
Did I hurt anyone feeling by saying the truth?
Alot of pinkbikers are now on vital aswell, which sucks.
a workplace saying now is: "the grass is greener on the other side because you are not over there F^%king it up"
You wrote a coupla interesting bits. To me it sounds like the pads may be sitting too low over the rotor, which may allow them to run on the rotor arms. Light-med braking may not create a vibe but harder pulls will as you may be getting a little bit extra stopping power each time the arm passes through the pad, and that extra bite causes the vibration. Check the rotor wear marks on the little triangle transition from the brake track to the arm and compare it to the wear mark that lines with the outside/top of the pad/outer diameter of the rotor. I've seen mounts that were off and AM rotors where the brake track wasn't 100% spot on with the brake. Additionally, the pad running over the arm in those hard brake actions can cause the pads to push back the piston ever so minimally, resulting in an inconsistent brake feel. If you can check to a stock Shimano rotor that would be ideal.
Another potential that would be harder to diagnose: inconsistent rotor thickness. Seen that back on old Hayes OG V7/178mm rotors and Tektros a coupla times. A slight high or low spot will change brake force and cause vibration. Worst examples can lead to a pulse in the lever blade during actuation. It doesn't take much, just a couple thousandths of a mm. That would be related to the grinding op at manufacture so would be considered a defect. Again, comparing to a stock Shimano unit would likely suss that out.
Next potential culprit is a bad bed in. Poor bed in can lead to inconsistent pad material deposition, which can create vibration. I don't think that's the case here, but it's worth mentioning. The second we think/act like we always do things right is generally when the time is ripe for us to prove ourselves incorrect.
I'd also suggest trying them with different rotors. I just swapped from Galfer Sharks to Waves on one of my bikes (to move the Sharks to a more desirable new bike), and noticed there's a LOT more vibration/feedback from the Waves. This is with Mavens & Galfer Purple pads. No noise, but it definitely feels very different.
Pinkbike is where you go to stir the pot, Vital is where you go for real discussion.
These are great suggestions. I've had the same symptoms in different instances on Shimano brakes because of a) caliper sitting too low on rotor and getting pulse/vibration from the pads hitting the six rotor spokes inside of the intended braking surface and another time from b) bad bed-in process that resulted in a little too much pad material left on one or two spots on the rotor, creating a bump and then vibration/howling. Both situations resulted in perfectly grabby brakes at first but then overheating and sub-optimal braking on longer descents. Problem A was solved by running a 1.5mm spacer under the caliper (203 rotors on 200mm PM) and in the other situation Problem B was solved by being extra careful to not lock up the brakes or even come close during the bedding process. I think the Shimano metal pad material can be perhaps too eager to deposit itself onto a new rotor, which can result in an inconsistent bump on the rotor, but that's a dumb uneducated guess.
Thanks. Been guilty of a bad bed in myself a couple times. I try not to throw suggestions out that involve throwing money at the problem without first fully understanding what the problem is. I was thinking about the Wave rotors a bit more. Those jobbers have awfully large cutouts in the brake track, which has me wondering if there's potential for the pad to 'fall' into the cutouts under harder braking events. That could create a vibration and again cause an inconsistent brake feel due to the pistons advancing and getting pushed back under each pass. But I'm not about to drop a hundred+ bucks to get a rotor to find out. That's something @noideamtber can check into easily enough.
If anyone feels like doing some science on this - you can tape your phone to a fork leg (most people have old smartphones lying around these days right?) and use a sensor app like sensorlog (iphone), physics toolbox or I think the arduino app to record vibration and speed - you can use FFT analysis (some of those apps have it built in) to get the frequency of the pulsing, which combined with the speed & wheel diameter you can figure out if it matches the number of spokes in the rotor
Nerd. 😆 That is seriously good info.
Hot off the press!
https://shop.sram.com/collections/expert-brakes/products/maven-ultimate…
Details on SRAM's new Motive brake, plus two new DB brakes - https://www.vitalmtb.com/features/guide-2025-sram-mtb-brakes-motive-maven-db-models
TLDR:
- Motive replaces Code and Level, becoming the do-everything brake, from XC to all mountain. There are Bronze ($175), Silver ($225), and Ultimate ($275) models, as well as the Ultimate Expert Kit ($599).
- No more 2-piston calipers, everything is 4-piston.
- ALL BRAKES USE MINERAL OIL NOW.
- DB grows to 3 models—DB8, 6, and 4. They're the cheap brakes for most types of riding.
- There is a new Maven 'Base' model ($185). It's the entry-level, user-friendly Maven that shouldn't be as powerful.
- Maven remains unchanged, and there is a new Ultimate Expert Kit as well ($599).
The motives seem like a big miss on Srams part to me. Back to a more vague lever feel, less powerful than the Codes, just doesn't make a lot of sense.
It would be spot on if it was a pure xc brake and really light. But seems possibly underwhelming for a trailbike, but now there’s nothing in the lineup between this and mavens. Seems like they should be lighter or stronger
So Motive is Guide reincarnate? No thanks.
Sram also released the maven base today. No swing link, dual 18mm pistons (ILO 18 and 19.5 on bronze/silver/ult). I'm sure this brake will proliferate all sub 10k builds, similarly to how it has with SC's new builds. Pretty lame tbh... the piston size thing makes just upgrading your brakes with maven silver lever assemblies questionable.
They read as Code power with ligher weight? Even a little less power than Codes seems enough for most trail riding.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/mountain/series/motive
Less power then codes is not enough power for trail biking where I live fwiw. My minimum brake is code, metallic pads and 200mm hs2 rotors and that can be really pushing it on some of the big mountain descents we have here.
Motive calipers seem to be identical to DB8 calipers with the exception of two of the models use a banjo instead of compression fitting. DB8 calipers are pretty much Code calipers with a compression fitting and different aesthetics. So the difference in performance really comes down to the levers.
That does seem to be the case here.
And my experiment with Zrace levers on DB8 calipers proves it. They are definitely more powerful than the codes on my older DH bike. Both have the same caliper, but the addition of the zrace levers have definitely netted a more powerful brake on my trail bike than the DH rig
#ifyourenotmeasuringyoureguessing
More like Level pushed up a lot further based on lever functionality... Guides at least had a swing link (and pad contact adjust).
What are zrace levers? I’m getting new brakes for my trail bike and intrigued with this idea
Aliexpress brakes.
As @Primoz posted aliexpress brakes.
But you can purchase just levers. I ran one set initially on Tektro 4 piston calipers for a year and then got a good deal on the DB8 calipers.
I put a second set of "Zrams" on my enduro bike after how well the levers played with the DB8 calipers
Cool, just ordered a set. Thinking I’ll try them with some TRP slate t4 calipers I have.
It not clear what olive and barb to use from memory. But I just used the shimano barb and olives (for the zrace levers).
Arenwe talking about the "M1" version?
Going off SRAM's marketing materials, wouldn't that make you a DB8 customer? In terms of brake power, it seems like the new SRAM heirarchy is:
1. Maven Ult/Silver/Bronze
2. Maven base (no swinglink, slightly smaller pistons)
3. DB8
4. DB4/6
5. Motive (no swinglink)
I'm testing the DB8 for Vital right now and loving it. I can see why that would be a bummer if you've absolutely gotta have a bearing pivot in your brake levers, but it seems like if the Motive isn't enough brake for you than any other brake in the SRAM lineup would give you more power.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment