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Yeah, it's been hard to get used to seeing negative rise stems on xc bikes. It's only been over a decade...

IDK, looks like a bicycle to me...

I don't know how world cup mechanics mount DH casing tires with just their hands. Black magic fuckery. Especially for those conti teams. Getting them off is just about as bad. My only tip, if you will, Is to use the butt plug. I've never used an insert but I freaking love their tire tools.

If your bikes live in a shed or unheated garage, bring the new tyres inside to warm up for a few hours before you try to fit them.

If I'm riding Squamish slabs with an almost infinite amount of grip? Sure, I'll take a front brake only. On every other steep trail in the world where there's a premium of grip, I'll take a rear brake only. Having ridden bikes with rear brakes that failed and bikes with front brake that failed, it's not even a question for me. Sure, the front brake is great on sections where there's grip, and I would miss not having it in those sections, but on the sections with sketchy and inconsistent grip, especially if it's dusty, loose, or features wet roots...

Respectfully, the mass grave that I've filled over the years with cooked brake pads and rotors, broken rear wheels, and punctured tires and inner tubes from riding steep trails tells me that my center of mass has a much stronger relationship with my rear wheel than what you've depicted in that free body diagram. The main difference being bumps and holes. as opposed to the endless monochromatic smooth grade that's implied by the instantaneous snapshot of your freebody diagram.

Must we, every 3 months, have this same tired drivetrain discussion. You like what you like, I like what I like. No one cares. Start a new topic if you guys want to duke it out about how terrible the wireless world is. Back to the rumors: 30T ochains on more builds in the future from a few brands.

Who at sram hurt you? I think I'm on record saying that the only thing worst than The XTR cassette being made of plates and cheese is the awfulness of the microspline driver. A plastic spacer to remove creaking isn't a solution. Anyways, back to the rumors: Is Transition the new Yeti?

The front brake/rear brake thing really comes down to terrain and riding style, but mostly terrain. There are trails where it's easier for me to accidentally make my rear tire skid, and other trails where it's easier for me to accidentally make my front tire skid. If grip is good on a trail, my weight is typically going to shift forward when I brake, loading the front tire and creating grip there while unloading the rear. On trails like that my front brake is going to do most of the work slowing me down, which is what we would typically...

It was promising- less chainslap in general but on very large impacts chainslap was worse as you'd pull the derailleur into the weaker spring zone. Shifting was actually improved- less tension on the chain going into big cogs. Think the best would be a massive torsion spring to add tension everywhere and then use the cam over spring to mostly subtract tension going into the large cogs. I believe that is the limiter on cage tension. Once you have too much- the derailleur doesn't like shifting into the big easy cogs. I filed paperwork to patent, begged, pleaded, told everyone...

Parallel cam-over spring so it adds chain tension in the small cogs and subtracts it in the large cogs. Edit: pulled the pics- don't want to make trouble.

He needs a proportional water bottle!

I've got a minor brake annoyance that I'd like help diagnosing. I'm running Mavens on both my ebike and regular bike, both with TRP S05e 203mm rotors. The regular bike I run the SRAM organic pads, and on the ebike I run SRAM sintered. I've noticed that on warm, dusty rides (read: almost every ride here), the front sintered brake on the ebike is noisy at the start of a run. If I aggressively brake hard (drag front brake) it will go away for a bit, but then come back pretty quickly. The sintered rear doesn't really do it, or...

Not going to lie, you had me at googly eyes.

I need to get some bigger ones and maybe 3d print a mouth that goes on the bearing to make it look like its screaming I do honestly do work, I pormise

The machine is basically a motor that turns a shaft, which is turned in to linear up and down motion. The software runs the machine faster and faster, and measures how much force the damper is producing at every point and speed in the stroke. My machine is a CTW "rotary" type dyno with 2 HP and one of the more basic, lower power machines on the market (I think about $15,000 USD today). CTW was born out of a company called Roehrig who pioneered workshop damper testing in the early 90's - many of the older racecar and motorcycle...

Dude, dude, dude... hear me out: I agree that you'd ideally want to have cage spring forces that are lower in the big cogs for easier shifts while climbing and higher cage spring forces in the smaller cogs for greater chain retention and chain calming during descents, and yes the current arrangement on the new dual-spring Shimano RD's is kind of the opposite of that. You know what could be done by Shimano to reverse the derailleur cage spring force problem? You know what they could do? You know what? RAPID RISE IS BACK BABY!!!!! LOW NORMAL THIS IS YOUR...

This video was cool because it showed how separate the rear shock and tire are from each other, despite working in series. These are the most sophisticated full suspension bikes on the planet, and it's still a shitshow back there, with everything moving at a different time in the sequence and at a different speed. I need to watch this video ten more times to figure out the exact sequence of what's moving in what order, how fast, and how far.

The new hanger/ Dura Ace group was discussed on the Geek Warning podcast recently and they said the new hanger was to allow the smallest cog to sit further outboard (pushing into the space SRAMs "sandwich" design clamps the dropout) because the 13-speed cassette uses the same hub driver and chain as 12-speed (so cog spacing is also the same as 12sp).

To really level the playing field any top level racing should be limited to 20" wheels.