Introducing the ZETA Damping Cartridge by SIMONS.LABExternally adjustable compression and rebound tunes, Hydraulic Bottom-Out packaged in a drop-in cartridge design: ZETA is now available for...
Introducing the ZETA Damping Cartridge by SIMONS.LAB
Externally adjustable compression and rebound tunes, Hydraulic Bottom-Out packaged in a drop-in cartridge design: ZETA is now available for FOX 38, RockShox ZEB and Intend upside-down suspension forks.
Many riders know the situation: changes to the compression or rebound damping do not produce the desired effect on the trail, or an improvement in one area comes with noticeable compromises elsewhere. This is often caused by the predefined internal base tune found in conventional suspension forks. External adjusters can fine-tune this base tune, but they cannot fundamentally change it. If the tune does not match the spring rate, rider or desired ride feel, the available adjustment range can quickly reach its limits.
This is where the ZETA damping cartridge comes in. Its HSC and HSR Tune Adjusters change the base compression and rebound tunes externally - comparable to modifying the internal shim stack, but without having to open the cartridge. ZETA is the first product from SIMONS.LAB, a young suspension start-up based in Freiburg, Germany. The technical foundations of the damping concept were developed as part of Simon Reiberg’s Master’s thesis. Building on this research, more than two years of development, several prototypes, numerous dynamometer tests and extensive testing on the trails have resulted in the now production-ready ZETA damping cartridge.
ZETA IN DETAIL
The compression unit uses a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. This creates a predominantly linear to slightly digressive damping characteristic. As shaft speed increases, damping force builds consistently and predictably, without sudden changes in the force curve. The HSC Tune Adjuster provides seven different base tunes. This allows the overall level of compression damping to be matched to rider strength, personal comfort preferences and trail characteristics. A separate Low-Speed Compression adjuster with 23 clicks then provides the fine adjustment.
Seven base tunes are also available on the rebound side. The HSR Tune Adjuster allows the damping to be matched to the spring rate, which is influenced by factors including rider and bike weight as well as the chosen spring setup. At the same time, it changes the overall character of the fork: depending on personal preference, the fork can be set up to feel calmer and more planted or faster and more lively. The Low-Speed Rebound adjuster offers 20 clicks for fine-tuning within the selected base tune.
A position-sensitive Hydraulic Bottom-Out system becomes active during the final 25 millimeters of travel. It increases damping force shortly before the end of the stroke, providing additional control during deep compressions and hard landings before the fork reaches a mechanical bottom-out. This allows the regular compression tune to remain more supple throughout the rest of the travel while providing additional reserves near the end of the stroke. Bottom-out resistance therefore does not have to be generated solely through a highly progressive air spring setup.
The hydraulic foundation of the cartridge is a dual-tube architecture. Displaced oil is directed through separate compression and rebound circuits and partially returned through the space between the inner and outer tubes. A spring-loaded IFP compensates for the oil volume displaced by the damper shaft and keeps the closed cartridge pressurized. This layout makes it possible to combine the two Tune Adjusters, the conventional low-speed adjusters and the Hydraulic Bottom-Out system within a single cartridge.
Despite the wide adjustment range and number of available settings, riders do not have to start from scratch. For every order, SIMONS.LAB provides a recommended starting setup based on rider and bike weight, fork model, travel, intended use and personal preferences. From this baseline, the setup can be adjusted towards greater comfort, more support or a calmer or more lively ride feel.
“Not every rider is looking for the same ride feel. Ultimately, ZETA is not intended to dictate how a fork should feel,” says Simon Reiberg. “The cartridge provides the adjustment range needed to find what actually works for the individual rider and their riding style.”
FACTS AND FIGURES
Adjustability
Low-Speed Compression: 23 clicks
High-Speed Compression Tune Adjuster: 7 tunes
Low-Speed Rebound: 20 clicks
High-Speed Rebound Tune Adjuster: 7 tunes
Features and Architecture
Hydraulic Bottom-Out system during the final 25 mm of travel
Dual-tube architecture
Closed cartridge with a spring-loaded IFP (Internal Floating Piston)
Weight: from 390 g
Compatibility
FOX 38 (model years 2021–2026)
RockShox ZEB (model years 2021–2027)
Intend upside-down forks with 35 mm stanchions (excl. Samurai models)
Further applications are planned.
Installation
Depending on the fork platform, the ZETA damping cartridge can be installed by the customer. Installation instructions are available online. Alternatively, SIMONS.LAB offers a Factory Installation service for customers within the European Union. The cartridge is installed as part of a lower-leg service, and the complete fork is then returned ready to install on the bike.
Pricing and Availability
The ZETA damping cartridge is now available directly through SIMONS.LAB. Prices start at €486,55 excluding VAT (€579 including German VAT).
This is a lot of cool stuff packed into one aftermarket damper, and if it works as advertised that would be unreal for puzzlers and tweekers...
This is a lot of cool stuff packed into one aftermarket damper, and if it works as advertised that would be unreal for puzzlers and tweekers like me. I'm really curious to learn more about how the "tune adjuster" works, because I too don't understand what it means when they say the "tune Adjuster provides seven different base tunes."
Obviously we're not changing shim stacks with the turn of a knob, so I'm curious what they mean when they're refering to a base tune vs. an adjustment.
If it works like they claim they’ll be beating Vorsprung to the punch in fork dampers. Steve stated in the latest podcast with Remy that the fork damper they’re working on is aiming to have similar tune-ability as the Telum.
Which is what ohlins has been doing since their entrance into the MTB market. From the assembly video it looks like the HSC adjustment is somewhat unique...
Which is what ohlins has been doing since their entrance into the MTB market.
From the assembly video it looks like the HSC adjustment is somewhat unique. From what I can tell the piston has 3 main ports with a number of smaller ports, on the same BCD, that can be blocked from the flow path decreasing the amount of port surface area of the face shim, very different than the ellipse camp plate on the ohlins HSC circuit which adjusts the clamp diameter and the resulting force curve slope. No idea if it rides the same but I would be interested to get my hands on one for an extra zeb chassis I have lying around. TBH I would really like to try one in a Dh fork over a enduro fork... Will have to email to see if that is ever going to be a possibility.
Its cool to see where this has come since eurobike last year! Really stoked that it came to market!
Could you share a little bit more info about how Ohlins does their ellipse clamp plate for HSC? And is that tech included in Ohlins forks...
Could you share a little bit more info about how Ohlins does their ellipse clamp plate for HSC? And is that tech included in Ohlins forks, shocks, or both?
I'm curious how it compares to the Vorsprung Rapid ReValve adjustment. Sounds like it's pretty similar.
Vorsprung sorta answered that question underneath the Instagram post your image comes from.
Which is what ohlins has been doing since their entrance into the MTB market. From the assembly video it looks like the HSC adjustment is somewhat unique...
Which is what ohlins has been doing since their entrance into the MTB market.
From the assembly video it looks like the HSC adjustment is somewhat unique. From what I can tell the piston has 3 main ports with a number of smaller ports, on the same BCD, that can be blocked from the flow path decreasing the amount of port surface area of the face shim, very different than the ellipse camp plate on the ohlins HSC circuit which adjusts the clamp diameter and the resulting force curve slope. No idea if it rides the same but I would be interested to get my hands on one for an extra zeb chassis I have lying around. TBH I would really like to try one in a Dh fork over a enduro fork... Will have to email to see if that is ever going to be a possibility.
Its cool to see where this has come since eurobike last year! Really stoked that it came to market!
Could you share a little bit more info about how Ohlins does their ellipse clamp plate for HSC? And is that tech included in Ohlins forks...
Could you share a little bit more info about how Ohlins does their ellipse clamp plate for HSC? And is that tech included in Ohlins forks, shocks, or both?
I'm curious how it compares to the Vorsprung Rapid ReValve adjustment. Sounds like it's pretty similar.
My statement about it being an ellipse is somewhat misleading; it's more of a stepped clamp that mimics changing the clamp shim in that it alters the slope of the force vs velocity damping curve. Hope the pictures help explain what I am describing.
*EDIT: Yes, this is used in both forks and shocks for HSC adjustment.
My statement about it being an ellipse is somewhat misleading; it's more of a stepped clamp that mimics changing the clamp shim in that it alters...
My statement about it being an ellipse is somewhat misleading; it's more of a stepped clamp that mimics changing the clamp shim in that it alters the slope of the force vs velocity damping curve. Hope the pictures help explain what I am describing.
*EDIT: Yes, this is used in both forks and shocks for HSC adjustment.
A question for the more knowledgeable suspension people here: I have the latest ZEB with the Charger 3.2 damper. The new air spring and its more linear feel are definitely much better than the old version.
With this more linear air spring, however, I notice what feels like a stronger spike from the HSC circuit. As I understand it, the HSC circuit doesn’t use a conventional shim stack but a tapered rod that gets pushed into the port. This means the damping force rises progressively as shaft speed increases.
I notice it most over multiple fast hits: the force seems to spike and the damping effectively closes off too much, making the fork feel harsh. Best example: bone dry hardpack big braking bumps. Always annoying, yes but with this fork they're not only annoying, they hurt my fingers :D
What I’d prefer is almost the opposite: multiple fast movements should be absorbed in a linear—or even slightly digressive—way, while slower chassis movements are controlled more strongly.
Therfore I run the HSC fully open and only add HSC for jump or flow trails. At the same time, I run the LSC roughly one-third open from fully closed. This makes the fork feel slightly underdamped but still better than with the progressiv damping force.
Am I completely misunderstanding how the circuit works, or does anyone else recognise what I’m describing?
Try running the HSC in the middle and the LSC a few clicks open from center instead. On the Charger 3.x stuff I find that the LSC is the biggest contributor to harshness on braking bumps. The HSC mostly seems to affect max shaft speed vs. breakaway force.
Tried it with the HSC but nope. Works good with "midspeed" but not that great with high shaft speeds. Because as you say, it handles max shaft speed. Unfortunately it deals with it quadratic. So not a solution to this problem.
Running it open is definately better. I'd love to run some HSC but as said, not with progressive force. So what i have now: still progressive, but generelly less force. Which is meh.
edit: Still a great fork, but I suppose with a "standard shimstack compression" it would be superb.
I don't know if this is the right thread to ask this but here it goes:
I have a BoXXer Ultimate D2, ridden for 10hrs in the bikepark. After that it has started to creak, or more like click. The sound is pretty much like a CSU creak. What I've done:
-Disassembled the crowns
-Cleaned the crown bolts
-Greased the underside of the bolt heads and applied threadlocker to the threads
-Used 1500 grit sandpaper to remove any stuck on grime from the crown bores (found on butter suspension IG)
After doing so, the creaking goes away for about 2hrs of riding. After that it starts to creak again. I think it's just the lower crown as when I loosen them, there are the same clicking sounds. I've always used a torque wrench on them and tightened them, aligned the upper tubes and preloaded the headset per the manual.
I mainly ride in dry conditions but nothing out of the ordinary level of dusty. I suspect dust is getting in between the lower crown and upper tubes but surely the fork can't be so shit in that it would start to creak so quickly.
My friends ride 40's and don't experience any creaking. I'm seriously considering replacing it with a 40 if the issue can't be resolved. I can't make a warranty claim on it due to my country (and neighboring countries) Sram distributor being bankrupt and I'm not keen on sending my fork 3000 km away at my expense for Sram to look at it and say that it's fine.
I don't know if this is the right thread to ask this but here it goes:I have a BoXXer Ultimate D2, ridden for 10hrs in the...
I don't know if this is the right thread to ask this but here it goes:
I have a BoXXer Ultimate D2, ridden for 10hrs in the bikepark. After that it has started to creak, or more like click. The sound is pretty much like a CSU creak. What I've done:
-Disassembled the crowns
-Cleaned the crown bolts
-Greased the underside of the bolt heads and applied threadlocker to the threads
-Used 1500 grit sandpaper to remove any stuck on grime from the crown bores (found on butter suspension IG)
After doing so, the creaking goes away for about 2hrs of riding. After that it starts to creak again. I think it's just the lower crown as when I loosen them, there are the same clicking sounds. I've always used a torque wrench on them and tightened them, aligned the upper tubes and preloaded the headset per the manual.
I mainly ride in dry conditions but nothing out of the ordinary level of dusty. I suspect dust is getting in between the lower crown and upper tubes but surely the fork can't be so shit in that it would start to creak so quickly.
My friends ride 40's and don't experience any creaking. I'm seriously considering replacing it with a 40 if the issue can't be resolved. I can't make a warranty claim on it due to my country (and neighboring countries) Sram distributor being bankrupt and I'm not keen on sending my fork 3000 km away at my expense for Sram to look at it and say that it's fine.
I've seen the exact same thing in 40's multiple times as well - if you've cleaned, greased and torqued the bolts correctly then the only other thing I would try is tightening the headset further - that is a super common issue where there bearings don't have quite enough tension and causes a lot of issues so its worth a try.Tighten the preload enough to make the steering tight then back it off just enough that its smooth to turn again. It's really hard to overtighten a headset bearing but you would be surprised at how much movement and flex occurs even when there doesn't seem to be any play.
I've seen the exact same thing in 40's multiple times as well - if you've cleaned, greased and torqued the bolts correctly then the only other...
I've seen the exact same thing in 40's multiple times as well - if you've cleaned, greased and torqued the bolts correctly then the only other thing I would try is tightening the headset further - that is a super common issue where there bearings don't have quite enough tension and causes a lot of issues so its worth a try.Tighten the preload enough to make the steering tight then back it off just enough that its smooth to turn again. It's really hard to overtighten a headset bearing but you would be surprised at how much movement and flex occurs even when there doesn't seem to be any play.
I have tried that. It doesn’t really adress the issue since the lower crown makes clicking sounds when the pinch bolts are being loosened.
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify a bit what we mean by the Tune Adjusters.
As @Slavid666 analyzed pretty much spot-on, the High-Speed Tune Adjuster changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. With each adjuster position, one additional port is closed off, changing the hydraulically loaded area of the stack. The shim stack itself stays exactly the same, but the way it is loaded changes, which therefore changes the slope of the resulting force-velocity curve.
That is also the distinction we are trying to make between an HSC adjuster and the HSC Tune Adjuster. The regular HSC adjustment is usually used for fine-tuning the damping externally, while the Tune Adjuster changes the underlying tune to a much greater degree. Closer to what would normally require a change to the internal shim configuration.
This is also what we mean when we say the cartridge provides seven different base tunes. There are not seven different shim stacks inside the cartridge. It always uses the same stack, but the seven Tune Adjuster positions make that stack behave like seven different shim stack configurations in a conventional damper. So you can essentially select the underlying tune externally and then use the low-speed adjuster for the fine setup adjustments.
Hope this clarifies things a bit. If there are any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them here.
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify...
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify a bit what we mean by the Tune Adjusters.
As @Slavid666 analyzed pretty much spot-on, the High-Speed Tune Adjuster changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. With each adjuster position, one additional port is closed off, changing the hydraulically loaded area of the stack. The shim stack itself stays exactly the same, but the way it is loaded changes, which therefore changes the slope of the resulting force-velocity curve.
That is also the distinction we are trying to make between an HSC adjuster and the HSC Tune Adjuster. The regular HSC adjustment is usually used for fine-tuning the damping externally, while the Tune Adjuster changes the underlying tune to a much greater degree. Closer to what would normally require a change to the internal shim configuration.
This is also what we mean when we say the cartridge provides seven different base tunes. There are not seven different shim stacks inside the cartridge. It always uses the same stack, but the seven Tune Adjuster positions make that stack behave like seven different shim stack configurations in a conventional damper. So you can essentially select the underlying tune externally and then use the low-speed adjuster for the fine setup adjustments.
Hope this clarifies things a bit. If there are any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them here.
Best, Simon
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.
Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs. just changing the orifice size (I always think of that as bad as it can lead to spiking).
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify...
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify a bit what we mean by the Tune Adjusters.
As @Slavid666 analyzed pretty much spot-on, the High-Speed Tune Adjuster changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. With each adjuster position, one additional port is closed off, changing the hydraulically loaded area of the stack. The shim stack itself stays exactly the same, but the way it is loaded changes, which therefore changes the slope of the resulting force-velocity curve.
That is also the distinction we are trying to make between an HSC adjuster and the HSC Tune Adjuster. The regular HSC adjustment is usually used for fine-tuning the damping externally, while the Tune Adjuster changes the underlying tune to a much greater degree. Closer to what would normally require a change to the internal shim configuration.
This is also what we mean when we say the cartridge provides seven different base tunes. There are not seven different shim stacks inside the cartridge. It always uses the same stack, but the seven Tune Adjuster positions make that stack behave like seven different shim stack configurations in a conventional damper. So you can essentially select the underlying tune externally and then use the low-speed adjuster for the fine setup adjustments.
Hope this clarifies things a bit. If there are any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them here.
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs...
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.
Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs. just changing the orifice size (I always think of that as bad as it can lead to spiking).
The key difference is where the main restriction actually comes from. With something like the Charger 3, the flow path leading to the shim stack is restricted, so that restriction effectively sits in series with the shim stack.
With the ZETA Tune Adjuster, the ports and the fluid paths leading to them are sized so that the shim stack itself remains the main restriction in the flow path.
There are always open ports, and the ports themselves are non-restrictive until the flow reaches the shim stack opening. When additional ports are opened, they essentially add another flow path in parallel. This changes the effective area of the shim stack exposed to the flow and, as a result, the flow area opened up by the deflecting shims.
So although the adjuster technically opens and closes ports, the port area itself is not what generates the damping force. The ports mainly determine how the shim stack is hydraulically loaded, while the shim stack itself remains the element controlling the flow.
That’s why the resulting force-velocity characteristic still behaves like a conventional non-preloaded shim stack rather than like a restrictive orifice.
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify...
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify a bit what we mean by the Tune Adjusters.
As @Slavid666 analyzed pretty much spot-on, the High-Speed Tune Adjuster changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. With each adjuster position, one additional port is closed off, changing the hydraulically loaded area of the stack. The shim stack itself stays exactly the same, but the way it is loaded changes, which therefore changes the slope of the resulting force-velocity curve.
That is also the distinction we are trying to make between an HSC adjuster and the HSC Tune Adjuster. The regular HSC adjustment is usually used for fine-tuning the damping externally, while the Tune Adjuster changes the underlying tune to a much greater degree. Closer to what would normally require a change to the internal shim configuration.
This is also what we mean when we say the cartridge provides seven different base tunes. There are not seven different shim stacks inside the cartridge. It always uses the same stack, but the seven Tune Adjuster positions make that stack behave like seven different shim stack configurations in a conventional damper. So you can essentially select the underlying tune externally and then use the low-speed adjuster for the fine setup adjustments.
Hope this clarifies things a bit. If there are any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them here.
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs...
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.
Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs. just changing the orifice size (I always think of that as bad as it can lead to spiking).
The key difference is where the main restriction actually comes from. With something like the Charger 3, the flow path leading to the shim stack is...
The key difference is where the main restriction actually comes from. With something like the Charger 3, the flow path leading to the shim stack is restricted, so that restriction effectively sits in series with the shim stack.
With the ZETA Tune Adjuster, the ports and the fluid paths leading to them are sized so that the shim stack itself remains the main restriction in the flow path.
There are always open ports, and the ports themselves are non-restrictive until the flow reaches the shim stack opening. When additional ports are opened, they essentially add another flow path in parallel. This changes the effective area of the shim stack exposed to the flow and, as a result, the flow area opened up by the deflecting shims.
So although the adjuster technically opens and closes ports, the port area itself is not what generates the damping force. The ports mainly determine how the shim stack is hydraulically loaded, while the shim stack itself remains the element controlling the flow.
That’s why the resulting force-velocity characteristic still behaves like a conventional non-preloaded shim stack rather than like a restrictive orifice.
I hope this makes sense.
That's pretty smart. Thanks for breaking this down for us.
If it works like they claim they’ll be beating Vorsprung to the punch in fork dampers. Steve stated in the latest podcast with Remy that the fork damper they’re working on is aiming to have similar tune-ability as the Telum.
Will be really cool to see what Steve comes up with - I implored him to make sure the damper first in an inverted chassis!
Vorsprung sorta answered that question underneath the Instagram post your image comes from.
My statement about it being an ellipse is somewhat misleading; it's more of a stepped clamp that mimics changing the clamp shim in that it alters the slope of the force vs velocity damping curve. Hope the pictures help explain what I am describing.
*EDIT: Yes, this is used in both forks and shocks for HSC adjustment.
Thanks @Slavid666 and @FrontRangeFriend for the info. That helps!
Want to learn a whole lot about suspension stuff from the guy that designed the Sixfinity for the Yeti LT?
https://youtu.be/URjie8hlZyw?si=_gu7uQ2DmkjfDqZt
I have a fairly solid understanding of suspension kinematics and some of this discussion made my head spin lmao
Just put money down for a Simons.lab damper for my Intend Edge, can't wait, will report back.
Sick! i honestly don't know what more i could as from the stock fork if maybe less progression overall, curious to know how you like it!
Never noticed this thread!
A question for the more knowledgeable suspension people here: I have the latest ZEB with the Charger 3.2 damper. The new air spring and its more linear feel are definitely much better than the old version.
With this more linear air spring, however, I notice what feels like a stronger spike from the HSC circuit. As I understand it, the HSC circuit doesn’t use a conventional shim stack but a tapered rod that gets pushed into the port. This means the damping force rises progressively as shaft speed increases.
I notice it most over multiple fast hits: the force seems to spike and the damping effectively closes off too much, making the fork feel harsh. Best example: bone dry hardpack big braking bumps. Always annoying, yes but with this fork they're not only annoying, they hurt my fingers :D
What I’d prefer is almost the opposite: multiple fast movements should be absorbed in a linear—or even slightly digressive—way, while slower chassis movements are controlled more strongly.
Therfore I run the HSC fully open and only add HSC for jump or flow trails. At the same time, I run the LSC roughly one-third open from fully closed. This makes the fork feel slightly underdamped but still better than with the progressiv damping force.
Am I completely misunderstanding how the circuit works, or does anyone else recognise what I’m describing?
Try running the HSC in the middle and the LSC a few clicks open from center instead. On the Charger 3.x stuff I find that the LSC is the biggest contributor to harshness on braking bumps. The HSC mostly seems to affect max shaft speed vs. breakaway force.
Tried it with the HSC but nope. Works good with "midspeed" but not that great with high shaft speeds. Because as you say, it handles max shaft speed. Unfortunately it deals with it quadratic. So not a solution to this problem.
Running it open is definately better. I'd love to run some HSC but as said, not with progressive force. So what i have now: still progressive, but generelly less force. Which is meh.
edit: Still a great fork, but I suppose with a "standard shimstack compression" it would be superb.
I don't know if this is the right thread to ask this but here it goes:
I have a BoXXer Ultimate D2, ridden for 10hrs in the bikepark. After that it has started to creak, or more like click. The sound is pretty much like a CSU creak. What I've done:
-Disassembled the crowns
-Cleaned the crown bolts
-Greased the underside of the bolt heads and applied threadlocker to the threads
-Used 1500 grit sandpaper to remove any stuck on grime from the crown bores (found on butter suspension IG)
After doing so, the creaking goes away for about 2hrs of riding. After that it starts to creak again. I think it's just the lower crown as when I loosen them, there are the same clicking sounds. I've always used a torque wrench on them and tightened them, aligned the upper tubes and preloaded the headset per the manual.
I mainly ride in dry conditions but nothing out of the ordinary level of dusty. I suspect dust is getting in between the lower crown and upper tubes but surely the fork can't be so shit in that it would start to creak so quickly.
My friends ride 40's and don't experience any creaking. I'm seriously considering replacing it with a 40 if the issue can't be resolved. I can't make a warranty claim on it due to my country (and neighboring countries) Sram distributor being bankrupt and I'm not keen on sending my fork 3000 km away at my expense for Sram to look at it and say that it's fine.
I've seen the exact same thing in 40's multiple times as well - if you've cleaned, greased and torqued the bolts correctly then the only other thing I would try is tightening the headset further - that is a super common issue where there bearings don't have quite enough tension and causes a lot of issues so its worth a try.Tighten the preload enough to make the steering tight then back it off just enough that its smooth to turn again. It's really hard to overtighten a headset bearing but you would be surprised at how much movement and flex occurs even when there doesn't seem to be any play.
I have tried that. It doesn’t really adress the issue since the lower crown makes clicking sounds when the pinch bolts are being loosened.
First up, thank you to the Vital team for presenting our product here! Since a few questions came up, I wanted to chime in and clarify a bit what we mean by the Tune Adjusters.
As @Slavid666 analyzed pretty much spot-on, the High-Speed Tune Adjuster changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack. With each adjuster position, one additional port is closed off, changing the hydraulically loaded area of the stack. The shim stack itself stays exactly the same, but the way it is loaded changes, which therefore changes the slope of the resulting force-velocity curve.
That is also the distinction we are trying to make between an HSC adjuster and the HSC Tune Adjuster. The regular HSC adjustment is usually used for fine-tuning the damping externally, while the Tune Adjuster changes the underlying tune to a much greater degree. Closer to what would normally require a change to the internal shim configuration.
This is also what we mean when we say the cartridge provides seven different base tunes. There are not seven different shim stacks inside the cartridge. It always uses the same stack, but the seven Tune Adjuster positions make that stack behave like seven different shim stack configurations in a conventional damper. So you can essentially select the underlying tune externally and then use the low-speed adjuster for the fine setup adjustments.
Hope this clarifies things a bit. If there are any other questions, I’ll do my best to answer them here.
Best,
Simon
Amazing, thanks for contributing to the thread.
Purely for my education - what's the difference between "changes the port configuration underneath a non-preloaded tapered shim stack" vs. just changing the orifice size (I always think of that as bad as it can lead to spiking).
The key difference is where the main restriction actually comes from. With something like the Charger 3, the flow path leading to the shim stack is restricted, so that restriction effectively sits in series with the shim stack.
With the ZETA Tune Adjuster, the ports and the fluid paths leading to them are sized so that the shim stack itself remains the main restriction in the flow path.
There are always open ports, and the ports themselves are non-restrictive until the flow reaches the shim stack opening. When additional ports are opened, they essentially add another flow path in parallel. This changes the effective area of the shim stack exposed to the flow and, as a result, the flow area opened up by the deflecting shims.
So although the adjuster technically opens and closes ports, the port area itself is not what generates the damping force. The ports mainly determine how the shim stack is hydraulically loaded, while the shim stack itself remains the element controlling the flow.
That’s why the resulting force-velocity characteristic still behaves like a conventional non-preloaded shim stack rather than like a restrictive orifice.
I hope this makes sense.
That's pretty smart. Thanks for breaking this down for us.
Thanks, @SIMONS.LAB , that’s exactly what I was hoping to hear: “the port area itself is not what generates the damping force”
@SIMONS.LAB really cool offering! Any possibility of developing some dampers compatible with dh forks? Would love to try one in my DH38
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