The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and...
The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and more like they see demand for cable shifting
Yes, but the Transmission 90 stuff is... not amazing.
I like T-type drivetrains a lot, but their cable offerings are worse than the old 12 speed IMO.
The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and...
The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and more like they see demand for cable shifting
The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and...
The XO/90 build surprises me a little. XO cranks, with transmission 90. Looking at the cost difference it looks like less of a price-point decision and more like they see demand for cable shifting
Just out of curiosity, why is it not so hot for you? Seems like most people have liked the Transmission 90 stuff, except for the shifter.
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot of pressure on the tension adjuster on the sram 90 shifter and its just... not up to the task. I think I'd be singing a different tune if it felt as nice to deal with (and worked as well) as the XO and XX1 stuff did in the previous generation. I recently put an XO DH shifter on a madrone DH jab and my god its so nice, and in my opinion what the shifting on T-Type should feel like.
And I know people are going to stab me with pitchforks for saying it but wireless T-Type is REALLY fucking good.
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot...
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot of pressure on the tension adjuster on the sram 90 shifter and its just... not up to the task. I think I'd be singing a different tune if it felt as nice to deal with (and worked as well) as the XO and XX1 stuff did in the previous generation. I recently put an XO DH shifter on a madrone DH jab and my god its so nice, and in my opinion what the shifting on T-Type should feel like.
And I know people are going to stab me with pitchforks for saying it but wireless T-Type is REALLY fucking good.
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by a country mile. I guess it could have a smoother shifter, but I've never once thought about it when out on the trail.
I actually sold my AXS T-Type to a friend in favor of 90 after forgetting to charge the battery again. It's good we have choices.
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have...
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have to put up with it.It's really unfortunate.
The main problem is the fact steerer tubes on forks are usually cut. If you have an uncut steerer, you can always do this:
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by...
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by a country mile. I guess it could have a smoother shifter, but I've never once thought about it when out on the trail.
I actually sold my AXS T-Type to a friend in favor of 90 after forgetting to charge the battery again. It's good we have choices.
there is no smoothshift option for eagle 90 on avinox systems. you haven't shifted properly if you haven't enjoyed smoothshift. the best iteration of shifting before we can enjoy the ecvts
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot...
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot of pressure on the tension adjuster on the sram 90 shifter and its just... not up to the task. I think I'd be singing a different tune if it felt as nice to deal with (and worked as well) as the XO and XX1 stuff did in the previous generation. I recently put an XO DH shifter on a madrone DH jab and my god its so nice, and in my opinion what the shifting on T-Type should feel like.
And I know people are going to stab me with pitchforks for saying it but wireless T-Type is REALLY fucking good.
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by...
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by a country mile. I guess it could have a smoother shifter, but I've never once thought about it when out on the trail.
I actually sold my AXS T-Type to a friend in favor of 90 after forgetting to charge the battery again. It's good we have choices.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
they just need to bring back a x01/xx1 level shifter
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have...
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have to put up with it.It's really unfortunate.
The main problem is the fact steerer tubes on forks are usually cut. If you have an uncut steerer, you can always do this:
The main problem is the fact steerer tubes on forks are usually cut. If you have an uncut steerer, you can always do this:
That is a fine choice of dandyhorse there Mr P . I like my Aether a lot but even at 1.90m on a large , 20mm of spacers and 30mm bars feels pretty good (a longer cs would be nice though ;o)
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have...
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have to put up with it.It's really unfortunate.
That is a fine choice of dandyhorse there Mr P . I like my Aether a lot but even at 1.90m on a large , 20mm...
That is a fine choice of dandyhorse there Mr P . I like my Aether a lot but even at 1.90m on a large , 20mm of spacers and 30mm bars feels pretty good (a longer cs would be nice though ;o)
I'm also 190 cm and also on a large, but the Aeris 9 is even larger than previous models. I was on an XL AM9 before (I have both bikes in the bike check section) and started feeling the XL is too big so I went with the L Aeris 9. Sadly it's zoo much bike travel wise for my current needs 😁
As for cockpit height, with a cut steerer and a 35 mm rise bar, the bike was unrideable for me. Granted it was only one ride, but it was transformed with a 55 mm rise bar. This now seems to be working. I ran it with ~5 cm of spacers before adding the upper cup extender as I was beginning to worry for the fork steerer.
Maybe I'll slam it back down at some point, but I'll need 55+ mm bars with a normal sweep first. And yeah, trying out longer chainstays would be a nice option too.
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have...
It's a shame there is no way to adjust the height of your handlebars.If you bike's stack is 10mm lower than you'd like you just have to put up with it.It's really unfortunate.
Carbon is conductive, and hence a pretty good shield for RF. Placing an Airtag inside of a Carbon or metal frame would degrade signal strength pretty...
Carbon is conductive, and hence a pretty good shield for RF. Placing an Airtag inside of a Carbon or metal frame would degrade signal strength pretty severely.
Makes sense on paper this would be an issue, but in the real world an airtag inside a carbon frame works just fine.
That's good to know. I'm used to the RC world, where RF inside Carbon bodies is a big fail, but I guess for RC we need the bulk of the messages to make it through, whereas for an AirTag to be effective, one packet in 10 minutes it probably fine.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
they just need to bring back a x01/xx1 level shifter
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
This is what I'm planning on doing.
My issue with Eagle 90 is that, no matter what I do, it seems like it just can't be setup perfectly. The lack of limit screws and b-adjust make it a pain to try and get it totally dialed in. When it works, it works OK, but when it doesn't, the process of fixing it just doesn't seem to fix it entirely. There is always something out of alignment or slightly off. I've setup or installed many other drivetrains including SRAM 12 speed without this being an issue, but neither me nor bike shops seem to be able to get it working as well as the others have.
I don't really care about the feel of the shifter. It's good enough, except one I have that gets stuck and I have to kick the rear mech with my foot to get it to move out of the easiest gear.
I'm gonna put the Madrone on the two bikes I care about and hopefully resolve this issue.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
This is what I'm planning on doing. My issue with Eagle 90 is that, no matter what I do, it seems like it just can't be setup...
This is what I'm planning on doing.
My issue with Eagle 90 is that, no matter what I do, it seems like it just can't be setup perfectly. The lack of limit screws and b-adjust make it a pain to try and get it totally dialed in. When it works, it works OK, but when it doesn't, the process of fixing it just doesn't seem to fix it entirely. There is always something out of alignment or slightly off. I've setup or installed many other drivetrains including SRAM 12 speed without this being an issue, but neither me nor bike shops seem to be able to get it working as well as the others have.
I don't really care about the feel of the shifter. It's good enough, except one I have that gets stuck and I have to kick the rear mech with my foot to get it to move out of the easiest gear.
I'm gonna put the Madrone on the two bikes I care about and hopefully resolve this issue.
That was my experience with Eagle 90. Runs fine for a little bit, but the overall build feels "cheap" and just gets sloppy over time; the shifter is also meh. I currently have the Jab with an XT shifter, and it's been solid on every bike I've put it on; it doesn't feel like an RD that I need to worry about since it can all be repaired.
Plus, Madrone continues to make updates inspired by rider and customer feedback, so each update actually makes sense...
Just out of curiosity, why is it not so hot for you? Seems like most people have liked the Transmission 90 stuff, except for the shifter.
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then the ramps on the 3rd cog are too wide or cassette was manufactured out of tolerance spacing. Looking into a cassette warranty now.
I find the new T type setup scheme to be more confusing and janky. I never had an issue adjusting a B limit screw or H/L stop. Jamming hex spanner into a slot as a setup datum and hand tensioning the "B limit" while torquing correctly, with EXACTLY the right (proprietary) chain length does not feel like a step forward. All this feels like they just wanted to save money by reusing the electric group tooling for mechanical by not having to tap holes in the castings for actual adjustment screws.
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then...
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then the ramps on the 3rd cog are too wide or cassette was manufactured out of tolerance spacing. Looking into a cassette warranty now.
I find the new T type setup scheme to be more confusing and janky. I never had an issue adjusting a B limit screw or H/L stop. Jamming hex spanner into a slot as a setup datum and hand tensioning the "B limit" while torquing correctly, with EXACTLY the right (proprietary) chain length does not feel like a step forward. All this feels like they just wanted to save money by reusing the electric group tooling for mechanical by not having to tap holes in the castings for actual adjustment screws.
tolerances are clearly a problem, sram has been approving warranties very quick for cassettes
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then...
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then the ramps on the 3rd cog are too wide or cassette was manufactured out of tolerance spacing. Looking into a cassette warranty now.
I find the new T type setup scheme to be more confusing and janky. I never had an issue adjusting a B limit screw or H/L stop. Jamming hex spanner into a slot as a setup datum and hand tensioning the "B limit" while torquing correctly, with EXACTLY the right (proprietary) chain length does not feel like a step forward. All this feels like they just wanted to save money by reusing the electric group tooling for mechanical by not having to tap holes in the castings for actual adjustment screws.
Not to mention, 3 out 5 bikes with transmission that come in have slipped in the frame, so that the B gap is too small and there's slack in the chain. This is after torquing them to spec on the derailleur and the axle.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?
Granted, at some point X01 derailleurs will be a thing of the past, especially with Sram replacing the Eagle gen with 'new' derailleurs where the best cable actuated option is essentially GX, so that's a point where you go for the Jab. But until then, why bother with T-Type?
Maybe Madrone makes a set-up that will allow a regular eagle shifter on the T-type?
They do. They even make a cam that makes a Shimano shifter compatible with an Eagle cassette for example. You can mix and match a bunch of stuff with the cams they offer. Props to them on that front.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?Granted...
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?
Granted, at some point X01 derailleurs will be a thing of the past, especially with Sram replacing the Eagle gen with 'new' derailleurs where the best cable actuated option is essentially GX, so that's a point where you go for the Jab. But until then, why bother with T-Type?
I've got a buddy that does a lot of riding and a little racing on a 2019 Blur, and he's coming up on 18k miles on an XX1 DR on that bike. Still works great. I'm kind of wondering if my Eagle DR collection might outlive me. If not, I'll take Madrone over T-Type.
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting...
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
i know, that's exactly what i run, XX1 shifter and T-Type Madrone, it's awesome
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows...
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?Granted...
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?
Granted, at some point X01 derailleurs will be a thing of the past, especially with Sram replacing the Eagle gen with 'new' derailleurs where the best cable actuated option is essentially GX, so that's a point where you go for the Jab. But until then, why bother with T-Type?
because it doesn't last, also very hard to find depending on where you are in the world, clutches dies and so do the pivots in the linkage, plus, the cassettes have too big of a gap between 1st and 2nd gear, t-type is better on that, and it's designed for a 55mm chainline
Yes, but the Transmission 90 stuff is... not amazing.
I like T-type drivetrains a lot, but their cable offerings are worse than the old 12 speed IMO.
Just out of curiosity, why is it not so hot for you? Seems like most people have liked the Transmission 90 stuff, except for the shifter.
Well mine was stolen while I slept!
Honestly, the lack of "fudgeability" by using the limits + b tension screws to deal with any cable/housing related issues puts a hell of a lot of pressure on the tension adjuster on the sram 90 shifter and its just... not up to the task. I think I'd be singing a different tune if it felt as nice to deal with (and worked as well) as the XO and XX1 stuff did in the previous generation. I recently put an XO DH shifter on a madrone DH jab and my god its so nice, and in my opinion what the shifting on T-Type should feel like.
And I know people are going to stab me with pitchforks for saying it but wireless T-Type is REALLY fucking good.
I don't get the SRAM 90 hate. Intuitive shifter ergonomics (unlike the AXS pod) and it just works. Most durable, reliable system I've ever used by a country mile. I guess it could have a smoother shifter, but I've never once thought about it when out on the trail.
I actually sold my AXS T-Type to a friend in favor of 90 after forgetting to charge the battery again. It's good we have choices.
The main problem is the fact steerer tubes on forks are usually cut. If you have an uncut steerer, you can always do this:
there is no smoothshift option for eagle 90 on avinox systems. you haven't shifted properly if you haven't enjoyed smoothshift. the best iteration of shifting before we can enjoy the ecvts
it's the cheap plastic feeling shifter the issue
I know I’m in the minority here but I’d take a slightly cheap feeling shifter that feels like a shifter over one that feels like adjusting the volume on a cheap bluetooth speaker any day.
they just need to bring back a x01/xx1 level shifter
That is a fine choice of dandyhorse there Mr P . I like my Aether a lot but even at 1.90m on a large , 20mm of spacers and 30mm bars feels pretty good (a longer cs would be nice though ;o)
I'm also 190 cm and also on a large, but the Aeris 9 is even larger than previous models. I was on an XL AM9 before (I have both bikes in the bike check section) and started feeling the XL is too big so I went with the L Aeris 9. Sadly it's zoo much bike travel wise for my current needs 😁
As for cockpit height, with a cut steerer and a 35 mm rise bar, the bike was unrideable for me. Granted it was only one ride, but it was transformed with a 55 mm rise bar. This now seems to be working. I ran it with ~5 cm of spacers before adding the upper cup extender as I was beginning to worry for the fork steerer.
Maybe I'll slam it back down at some point, but I'll need 55+ mm bars with a normal sweep first. And yeah, trying out longer chainstays would be a nice option too.
Coming on Stumpjumpers only or for everybody?
That's quite the extended headset cup,
Excuse me
That's good to know. I'm used to the RC world, where RF inside Carbon bodies is a big fail, but I guess for RC we need the bulk of the messages to make it through, whereas for an AirTag to be effective, one packet in 10 minutes it probably fine.
The Madrone Jab with whatever shifter you want solves that issue. I've been on all the latest drivetrains from SRAM and Shimano, and the Jab blows them all out of the water in pretty much every aspect - price being the only outlier there.
This is what I'm planning on doing.
My issue with Eagle 90 is that, no matter what I do, it seems like it just can't be setup perfectly. The lack of limit screws and b-adjust make it a pain to try and get it totally dialed in. When it works, it works OK, but when it doesn't, the process of fixing it just doesn't seem to fix it entirely. There is always something out of alignment or slightly off. I've setup or installed many other drivetrains including SRAM 12 speed without this being an issue, but neither me nor bike shops seem to be able to get it working as well as the others have.
I don't really care about the feel of the shifter. It's good enough, except one I have that gets stuck and I have to kick the rear mech with my foot to get it to move out of the easiest gear.
I'm gonna put the Madrone on the two bikes I care about and hopefully resolve this issue.
That was my experience with Eagle 90. Runs fine for a little bit, but the overall build feels "cheap" and just gets sloppy over time; the shifter is also meh. I currently have the Jab with an XT shifter, and it's been solid on every bike I've put it on; it doesn't feel like an RD that I need to worry about since it can all be repaired.
Plus, Madrone continues to make updates inspired by rider and customer feedback, so each update actually makes sense...
Maybe Madrone makes a set-up that will allow a regular eagle shifter on the T-type?
I'm dealing with the dreaded chain not seating/ skipping on the 3rd cog issue on my SO's bike with T90. Shifts great across the range then the ramps on the 3rd cog are too wide or cassette was manufactured out of tolerance spacing. Looking into a cassette warranty now.
I find the new T type setup scheme to be more confusing and janky. I never had an issue adjusting a B limit screw or H/L stop. Jamming hex spanner into a slot as a setup datum and hand tensioning the "B limit" while torquing correctly, with EXACTLY the right (proprietary) chain length does not feel like a step forward. All this feels like they just wanted to save money by reusing the electric group tooling for mechanical by not having to tap holes in the castings for actual adjustment screws.
New Gen 3 Fluid is out. Can be run as mullet, lifetime warranty, decent builds. Price points feel solid: Fluid A1 | Norco
tolerances are clearly a problem, sram has been approving warranties very quick for cassettes
And X01 and XX1 Eagle DRs
Not to mention, 3 out 5 bikes with transmission that come in have slipped in the frame, so that the B gap is too small and there's slack in the chain. This is after torquing them to spec on the derailleur and the axle.
But why run T-Type then, why not just runt he old Eagle stuff? And then when you're at it, why not run an X01 Eagle derailleur?
Granted, at some point X01 derailleurs will be a thing of the past, especially with Sram replacing the Eagle gen with 'new' derailleurs where the best cable actuated option is essentially GX, so that's a point where you go for the Jab. But until then, why bother with T-Type?
They do. They even make a cam that makes a Shimano shifter compatible with an Eagle cassette for example. You can mix and match a bunch of stuff with the cams they offer. Props to them on that front.
I've got a buddy that does a lot of riding and a little racing on a 2019 Blur, and he's coming up on 18k miles on an XX1 DR on that bike. Still works great. I'm kind of wondering if my Eagle DR collection might outlive me. If not, I'll take Madrone over T-Type.
i know, that's exactly what i run, XX1 shifter and T-Type Madrone, it's awesome
because it doesn't last, also very hard to find depending on where you are in the world, clutches dies and so do the pivots in the linkage, plus, the cassettes have too big of a gap between 1st and 2nd gear, t-type is better on that, and it's designed for a 55mm chainline
Post a reply to: 2026 MTB Tech Rumors and Innovation - Longer and Slacker