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Is 1.5mm too thick for a Hall Lock? I made a washer out of magic carpet sled plastic (basically a mud guard) that I can slip into place without removing the wire clip, but for the life of me I can't get my bike to shift nicely into my lower 6 gears.
WRP Zero Drag, torquing screws with same (exact) torque (especially stem, bar), copper paste here and there, vhs 2 slapper tape, greasing bolt heads, tightening cables, 3M tape, wherever a cable hits the frame, riding new rockshox stuff and transmission, securing in frame cables velcroing inside of chainguide, cleaning and oiling chain, regreasing bearings.
I've got a nukeprof Horizon Pro which has DT Swiss internals (I think)
Do you reckon one of these would fit?
No, I don't think they have anything in common with dt swiss at all to be honest.
Spacer thickness should not affect the shifting as it's not mounted between derailleur/hanger, a thicker washer just means less thread engagement. A .5mm to .8mm thick 12mm shoulder shim works great for Shimano derailleurs. (I run an o-ring with SRAM AXS)
https://www.mcmaster.com/91437A473/
Maybe the plastic is deforming when tightened and doing something weird to the derailleur? I typically pop the retaining ring out when installing the washer and leave it out, the der stays together fine without it.
I had a creaky pair of lyriks. I stored the bike upside down with red loctite on the steerer/crown interface overnight, and wiped off the excess in the morning, it stopped. Won't be a one size fits all solution but it may help to try.
All great stuff!
Keep in mind if you grease bolts or heads you need to reduce torque to compensate unless the spec calls for it.
The generation of Horizon hub I have is a white-labelled Spank Hex. I like the buzz, but did add a grease-and-oil slurry to damp it a little.
I can try with the retaining ring out but I can’t picture what that would change. I made my plastic washer a split ring so I can install or remove very easily.
Maybe I’ll just try the standard method with your washers. Thanks.
My 3mo old Fox 38 equipped enduro sled is already developing the (stock) Cane Creek 40 headset upper assy creak/click. I've chased this before and ended up settling on the 110 series with better stainless bearings and upper wedge assy.
This time I think I'll go nuclear option and install an ENDURO MAXhit https://cycling.endurobearings.com/collections/headsets/products/hdk-0010-maxhit-zero-stack-headset-kit-44-56mm# set with angular contact bearings integrated into the 440C steel press in cup. Seems like a big win for eliminating a part interface and being able to preload the bearings without damage.
Or get these damped FSA babies, they are to be preloaded to 5NM.
https://www.bikeradar.com/news/fsa-lauf-damped-headset-bearing
Or, the Stiffmaster.
Interesting about that FSA bearing - it's something I've thought about testing, as you can get "damping" greases which are extremely high viscosity and can be quite useful in certain applications. The other benefit of high viscosity is reduced friction in very high load, low speed applications
They're normally a bit more obscure and hard to get hold of, BUT the sram "jonnisnot" grease is actually one of these greases (for gripshift internals) so I keep a couple of tubes of it to use in certain places and its pretty handy to have!
I didn't pop the seals before installing them, but they definitely add a lot of drag to steering.
I have a tube of Nyogel 767A and that sticky fucker is almost impossible to even get out of the tube.
Yup thats similar stuff! I think the 767 is a bit thicker again and mineral/hydrocarbon based with ptfe whereas the jonnisnot is silicone based but they are both bade by NYE lubricants. The jonnisnot is so thick I find the syringe can't push it out very well and most gets squeezed around and behind the piston instead
Does anyone have experience with both VHS tape and STFU tape? Not the thing that wraps around the chain, but the tape with the fins.
I was very happy with VHS on my previous bike and was just going to buy another strip but wanted to gather opinions if anyone has tried both.
Yes I have both. I like the look of VHS but can’t find it anywhere. The STFu fins works great, very good at keeping noise down
Here’s a weird one; my hub and cassette would make so much noise no matter what I did to my bike so I got electrical tape and wrapped a few layers around the hub body and then wrapped the spider of the 52t cog with tape as well. This muted all the reverberating hub clanging noises and it seems really promising. Much, much quieter.
This is on Vault hubs with a garbaruk cassette. Not sure the specfics of it but with the Firebird, whenever you compress the suspension at all, it engages the hub. This would clang very loudly.
I've been chasing a weird knocking sound for a while. I tried everything without success, including absurd measures to quiet brake hoses inside rear triangle and brake pads in calipers. Turns out, it's the Avalanche Bomber CR that knocks during high frequency / low to high amplitude hits and that the carbon frame amplifies. We'll see if sending it for service fixes the issue (not holding my breath...)
Have you tried wrapping your frame in electrical tape?
But actually, if the service doesn’t work, perhaps some strategically places strips of sound deadening stickers meant for car body panels will help stop the amplification.
It's super common for the base valve to knock during direction change - its held in place with a wave spring which can compress enough under pressure to feel the movement. This spring also eventually breaks and makes the noise even worse. They either get replaced during a service or there are a few better ways to preload the base valve unit which won't knock
Is it play in the cassettes, ie needs grease on the threads and retorting? Or play in the FH body bearings? Dry pawls can make noise like that too
Perhaps. I’ll go over it again. I packed it full of grease which helped to an extent.
If you can find VHS V3 tape, that's the best option IMO.
Both silence chain slap about equally, but here are some cons of the STFU compared to VHS:
- The adhesive is weak - plan to supplement with zip ties if you don't want the edges to lift. It says its 3M VHB but this seems pretty sus to me - the adhesion is more like a post-it then genuine VHB.
- The regular size is pretty narrow - you won't get much wrap around your chainstay which exacerbates the adhesion issues, especially if your heels rub on the stays.
- Right after I ordered the regular STFU, they came out with a wide version but made the strange decision to offset the ribbing to one side of the tape rather than center it. So you'll still get the issue of minimal wrap and lifting edges on the shorter edge. If you do go for STFU, I'd get this variant anyway though - the regular stuff is too narrow.
- The flat portion of the tape is thinner than VHS
Pros of the STFU are that its cut slightly longe than the VHS, and that its actually available right now - VHS is going through a "restructuring" of some sort so their products have been harder to find the last few months - their site was down for almost a year, is back now, but nothing is in stock.
I hope VHS does return soon, I'd like to keep using it. The width of the V3 makes it possible to do a nice symmetrical wrap all the way around a pretty tall chainstay, you can make pretty discreet seam at the bottom the stay for an almost stock appearance. And the adhesive is great, I've had much less issues with it staying in place than with STFU tape.
Sizing and width comparison of VHS V2, VHS V3, and STFU regular width respectively:
Has anyone come up with an idea (other than just don’t bother) to dampen the sounds from inside downtube storage? On my Enduro if I use the SWAT bag and pack it full its almost impossible to fit into the downtube, but not full and everything rattles. I got a Santa Cruz downtube tool wrap which is better, but it still makes a load of noise over small repeated chatter…
In stock Bomber - this is spot on. Avalanche replaced the valving so this is IMO a different issue, I have the domed shims in a bag of guts they sent back with the shock. I've had Avalanche Bombers on a few frames and they always knocked a little, but I think that the shape and size of the down tube of the new SC frames just accentuates the problem.
Does anyone have any tips to help the cable rattle on this new fox podium? The cables have quite a bit of room to rattle in the guide and it doesn't help that the guide is made out of hard plastic. I was thinking of putting some Velcro inside of the guide, but the cable still needs to be able to move freely. Let me know what you guys think!
use some of that Internal foam glued to the cable. or even better, glue it to the guides.
The domed washers are different to the wave spring under the base valve, so if the stock base valve assembly is still in there with shims then it either still has the wave spring or that issue has been sorted in a different way, I just can't tell from their website
The other possible issue is santa cruz frames don't clamp the rear hardware tight enough so the bushing can develop play very easily, even if everything seems tight. This is why they tend to have bearing mounts for the rear eyelet on SC bikes, because the frame is too rigid and doesn't squeeze inward enough. Try a new bushing & fully torque the shock bolt if theres no internal problem with the damper
Thank you, Sir!
Only way I was able to get the bags (on my Santa Cruz) to not sound like my bike was falling apart was to wrap anything hard inside them in shop towels (or remove hard stuff entirely), filling them out so much that they literally couldn't move around in the frame. It's tough because even if like you only put in soft stuff like a tire boot, zip ties, and some band-aids, if the bag zippers hit the frame it's noisy.
What I've settled on using my storage for is mounting an inline bracket for my OneUp 50cc pump on the underside of the hatch (I find the side pump mount that goes under a bottle cage has a tendency to flex if you mount it far enough away that the pump doesn't touch the frame), and stuff a windbreaker up above the hatch. I guess maybe you could do a tube instead of the windbreaker up the DT. EDC in the steerer for multitool and plugger. Anything else goes in a tool wrap in my vest, or doesn't get brought along.
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