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With shimano's new release, i cant help feel disappointed by the lack of Power increase(and no change in feel, other than no wandering point), still have to use big rotors and decent pads to get them up there with most other options.
definitly not worth 'upgrading' if you put Putoline in your current X200 series
Yeah I have no doubt that they're stronger on paper. I'm just not that blown away from my riding and from all the hype I've heard. I will try different pads for sure and do a full bleed. Also doing the same regarding the free throw. One thing I like is that i've smashed the levers into trees without no damage so that's a big upgrade at least from the Shimano lever blades.
I recently acquired a Pinner Bigger Bleed cup with SRAM fitting for my Mavens just to try something different. I've never bled any brakes that required a cup before, but wanted to try because a) it's such a large volume of oil that it should be easier to fully flush the system and b) I feel like relying on vacuum from 2 syringes exposes you to pulling air in from seals. Any advanced tips on how to best use a bleed cup with SRAM/Bleeding Edge fitting brakes?
I did a couple of bleeds on my bikes with it to try it out, and basically started by drawing fluid down from the cup out the caliper (to ensure there was no air at the Bleeding Edge connection there). Then I clamped the caliper syringe, degassed the fluid at that end, unclamped it, and pushed fluid back up to the cup. I repeated that cycle a few times, clamped off the syringe, closed Bleeding Edge fitting, squeezed lever a few times until it got firm, then plugged the cup and closed up the system.
How did it turn out?
Mixed experiences with vacuum bleeds at the caliper, on the rear brake it pulls bubbles on no end and front brake i can get a big succ no problem
I did a 1 hour ride on one of the 2 bikes I bled with the cup yesterday, and no weirdness to report. The bleed on those was already damn good, I just had noticed that very rarely when going through a fast rough section that the lever would pump out a tiny bit until it was pulled next. My thought was there was a tiny bubble up near the lever that was expanding. That didn't happen yesterday after the cup bleed but like I mentioned, this was extremely rare behavior. If you plug the cup and pull with the caliper syringe, you will still generate a big stream of bubbles (too much to be air hiding in the system, must be bypassing some seal somewhere, most likely the Bleeding Edge port).
Alright, so to save money this year (as I've already spent too much on other upgrades) I am changing my Code Rs to RSC levers. Got an insane deal on eBay from a take-off set.
Curious to know if there are any weird tips for the bleed. I have bleed my Guide RSCs a few times but they still feel a little mushy. Strong, but mushy.
I am using a Bleed Zone pro kit with the bleeding edge adapter and the syringes that can lock.
Do you know already how to use the contact adjust while bleeding?
At the end of the bleed after you close the master cylinder port, you can over fill the caliper a tiny bit by pushing on that syringe while closing off the bleeding edge port. It'll give you less lever throw. Don't overdo it though.
After reading about the new XTR brakes needing low viscosity oil and shimano saying you should NOT use that oil on their older brakes, I'm wondering if I messed up my Lewis LHP's by using likewater low viscosity fluid. I've bled these brakes several times and it seems like what's happening is some oil is leaking out of the master cylinder piston. They feel great right after the bleed then after a ride or two, I start seeing oil droplets around that area of the master cylinder. I've been in a very slow conversation on instagram with Lewis, and last I heard from them is that I should check the piston sleeve. So I took it apart and piston and all the seals look fine. But if they're swollen from the wrong the brake fluid, they wouldn't necessary look bad right? So I think I'll order some Lewis fluid and try a full bleed with that. But will that revive the seals? Or do they need replacing? Anyone ever have issues because of using lower viscosity fluid than the recommended fluid?
that's just marketing bs to get you to get the new brakes, people have been doing that for years on older shimanos, it could just be a bad seal or a tolerance issue
in theory, it shouldn't matter but that doesn't mean that everything is sympatico. There is always the chance that a co developed their fluid and seal composition formulas in house and the two are tied together. Lewis doesn't show their fluid on their website, but by color it at least looks like Maxima, same as Sram's. My guess would be that LikeWater's viscosity allows it to creep past the seals. Some components require specific fluid weights for their mechanical properties, and indeed that's one of the reasons semibath oils tend to be heavier. They stick to the slidey bits and are retained by a dust seal rather than oil seal, both decreasing friction. Seal shape and surface finishes are generally the reason for the specified weights. Full disclosure, I've run Like Water in other mineral oil systems without issue (indeed, way better in cold than Shimano's red juice), I just can't comment on Lewis directly. To that end, I'd drain the system and rebleed with the proper fluid 2x to insure things and then see if the weep creeps back. Checking out the MSDS sheets from both wouldn't hurt either.
If anything, these situs show one real pita for shops and manufacturers to monitor, insuring specified fluids go into their units. The lack of standardization in mineral oils is a helluva nuisance, and one that is not bemoaned enough by consumers/shops/OEs. I've 3 diff bottles of mineral oil in my chemical bin, simply because I needed them at one point to work on others' bikes, and I'm not a shop. Guessing the Magura will be the last bottle standing.
I mean I totally know how to use the contact adjust while bleeding, but just for anyone who doesn't know, what is your tip?
in my experience of installing many sets, when you vacuum the caliper - make sure you only have the bleeding open a tiny bit and pull gently and smoothly.
bonus tip, hold the caliper with bleeding edge upright and also move the pistons a little, this will help dislodge any stuck behind a piston.
Does anyone know of any companies besides TRP making thicker rotors in a 220? Excluding those super wide hope floating ones, I can’t afford those.
2.3? lewis but they are similar to the TRP r1. the newer r5 rotors are good.
Otherwise there is plenty in the 2mm range.
What I do is go to the contact point in all the way before inserting the syringe
While bleeding lever all the way out and contact point all out
Before removing the syringe at the lever contact point all the way in again and push fluid in to “overfill”
It will spill the extra
That’s SRAM mechanics tips and it works a treat without needing to overfill anything through the bleeding edge
Radic performance
Intend massive those are 223 tho
Hope one piece are 2.3 and 220
Braking makes the pets stage 0 at 2.2mm in a 220
Hope also have some heavy duty one piece at 2.3mm
You mean rotate fully opposite of the arrow? Yes.
I just installed Galfer Wave 223 at 2.0mm
Yeah, I think it's worth a try to replace the fluid. Thanks for the input. I should have also said that this is happening on both front and rear brakes, which strengthens the theory I think. Will report back...
Or just use a thinner bleed block...
Nico: What was your reasoning for choosing TRP instead of Hope floating discs?
I'm about to go for TRP RS01E 223mm as the RS05E 223mm seems to out of stock most of the places at the moment.
Hope has either 1.8mm or 3.3mm floating discs. There's nothing to bridge that gap which at least is why I personally ruled those out. I do not want 1.8mm and 3.3mm is more than I need + they cost more and have a big weight penalty as well. All in all I had to look elsewhere so I felt the RS05E were the best compromise.
I've only used them for a few rides now(first impressions) and they do what they are supposed to do in my case. Also the stock green pads in V4 calipers only give the Hope high pitched squeel from time to time that I've heard is normal, so other than that no extra weird noises. Bite, performance and feel is tip top.
Hope's disc options are quite confusing and have changed in the last few years. 10 years ago they had one piece 1.8mm, floating 1.8mm and 3.3mm vented. Around 2018 (I think - I bought a set specifically for the EWS race in La Thuile that year after experiencing fade there in 2016) they introduced a heavy duty disc that was 2.3mm thick, possibly aimed at e-bikes as there were lightning bolt patterns. A few years ago the heavy duty disc was merged with their standard one piece line up so that now the one piece discs are 1.8mm in sizes 140 and 160 and 2.3mm in sizes 180 and above. It really isn't clear in a lot of shops though whether they are new or old stock.
Adding to this, the heavy duty with lightning have a bigger friction area compared to the normal 2.3 thick one piece, somehow every place that sells Hope as a picture for the one piece have the heavy duty with the lightning, which makes it confusing as it’s not what you’ll get.
You can custom order those and it take ages to get them, also they’re quite heavy a 2.3mm one piece sits at 222gr for a 203 rotor, the Hd ones are over 250gr for the 203
Exactly what pedal bob said.
I’ll add I tried on Maguras the RS01 and did not like them one bit, no bite at all in my experience,
And the rs05 look sick,
It seems the squeal calmed down yesterday on a couple steep trails where I feel I put enough eat through those purple pads to properly bed them in apparently, still squeal more than I’d like but I guess I have to make peace with it
I know Intends are old news but I finally got them all working after three bleeds and new rotors. Most of these lessons learned are simply rookie mistakes as the most brake work I’ve done prior to this is replacing pads and shortening hoses, so much of this would apply to any brake set and aren’t unique to Intends but Im going to document them for posterity anyway:
- The Intend hoses are really stiff and hard to cut, they appear to have a kevlar fiber surrounding the inner plastic tube which is really stiff. I have the Park Tool hose tool and it ate my blades that otherwise cut through Shimano hoses just fine. I’d recommend just getting good with a utility knife with a new blade. Practice a few cuts on the rear hose since you’ll have extra of that and don’t use cable cutters because it will crease the inner hose. The Parktool barb installer hilariously made a really good vice for holding the hose to cut it with a knife
- @Shinook had a really good advice about bleeding. You need to pass the oil back and forth several times and massage the pistons, I actually found quite a bit of air on my third bleed after doing a piston massage. Make sure the oil is visually free of bubbles before passing it back and forth, the Intend instructional video actually shows Cornelius sucking in bubbles in to the brakes because he passes it back and forth so quickly; it helps to pull a vacuum on the caliper syringe with the bleed screw closed.
- The pad to rotor clearance is really tight so if your rotors are any bit of warped you should cut your losses and get new ones. I spent about 4 hours combined after multiple rides re-truing my Shimano RT86s because they would re-warp after riding. I eventually gave up and got some of the new TRP S05Es, they required a little truing but took way less effort than the old warped rotors. Side note, I found out a 11mm bleed block from the Parktool kit was the perfect size to push the pistons all the way in to fit the 2.3mm thick rotor. The block took some careful maneuvering to get into place with the help of a tire lever but if you wiggle it back and forth it with center your pistons nicely.
The fact these brakes ships dry is the most challenging part of the install, other than that its pretty straightforward and a fun learning experience.
As much as I resent it, I've been trying the piston massage on all the Sram brakes I've worked on, and even worse, it improves the lever feel of all of them. What I do is a full bleed to flush out the fluid (I'm using motorex dot 5.1, great fluid) locking off the syringe at the lever and then doing the piston massage until all the pistons are moving as evenly and freely as possible. Then I'll open up the lever syringe again and do a lever bleed / vacuum to get the last bit of air out. Takes some time to do but it's been making the brakes have a lot better lever feel, way less mush, even with the g2s. Pisses me off every time I do it though haha.
of course it's annoying to do, it's easy to push the pistons out but takes ages to put them back in, i'm still unsure what makes them so hard to push back, i mean the maguras use the same kind of pistons and they move like nothing
Tolerances...
Is the piston massage described in the Maven bleed procedure?
EDIT: found it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaNINyOcmJI
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