My understanding is there was slow production due to scale ability of being made locally, Trying to make local products when you have to wait in...
My understanding is there was slow production due to scale ability of being made locally, Trying to make local products when you have to wait in line is hard work. Which drove prices of these brakes up, With DtSwiss they have a much bigger ability to create in bulk and go more 'mass production'
The lay off read like they were working in an expensive part of Germany, You remove that expensive part, push through more production(are they still being made by the same supplier but not in bulk order?)
With the DT take over i would assume they can assist in that production and with the ability to bring the lead people inside their own business which creates less cost for that 'department' Normally you get more production and more product being sold, Does this mean lower pricing? Id like to only ASSUME they are trying to bring the price down but it wont happen fast. bulk selling for less is generally a big business thing - hopefully still made in the same factory but bulk production discount.
I could be way wrong which ill accept, dont know what i dont know.... but regardless for us consumers we now have trickstuff for sale locally through the dtswiss chain.
I keep Pair's of shimano XT brakes around to go on Bikes i sell because people love that for some reason and i keep the trickstuff brakes.
do you believe everything on the TV or only read what you want, does everyone live your life for you? We work with DTswiss and their supply chain to us... So id like to safely assume their more insider stuff is true than what a press release reads.
When i worked at a previous job, Our Press releases for media were often twisted truths.
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope...
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
What do you all think?
The Code R's do not have the swing link I think its called and it changes the feel a fair amount.
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope...
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
What do you all think?
getting the rsc lever will only polish the turd, still a very meh brake will be and at a big expense, i'd rather pair the calipers with some Tech 4 masters if you really want to change levers only.
Better brakes will definitely improve your riding experience.
and don't be lazy either install the new lines it's a 5/10min job depending on the bike, on the first pages of this discussion there's some reccomendations based on budget and lever feel you're after but any of the options other than Lewis are solid, for what you're riding i'd go for the Hope T4V4, Huge power, Huge Modulation, light lever, look good, easy to service, not too expensive
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope...
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
The Code R's do not have the swing link I think its called and it changes the feel a fair amount.
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.What I'm wondering is if the...
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
The performance difference is tangible for sure. Once you get into the heavier braking the power ramps up more, it feels less “woody” in the middle to end part of the lever stroke compared to the R. If you want a real upgrade in power, Mavens or Hope Tech 4.
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are really key to making them work well. I've owned Code RSCs, rented bikes with Code Rs, and now own 3 pairs of Maven Ults.
Better brake pads than the stock SRAM ones will help also. I found the SRAM sintered pads for Codes to be pretty meh. Just about any aftermarket pad will be better (Galfer, MTX, etc.). The SRAM pads for Mavens got a lot better. And thicker rotors like HS2s.
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are...
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are really key to making them work well. I've owned Code RSCs, rented bikes with Code Rs, and now own 3 pairs of Maven Ults.
Better brake pads than the stock SRAM ones will help also. I found the SRAM sintered pads for Codes to be pretty meh. Just about any aftermarket pad will be better (Galfer, MTX, etc.). The SRAM pads for Mavens got a lot better. And thicker rotors like HS2s.
I have Trucker Co gold pads in the mail that I will try.
If you had Code RSC I'd recommend using the levers with Dominion A4 calipers but with Code R unfortunately you will have to replace the whole brake system to get worthwhile improvements for your money. Code RSC levers will improve performance but for the cost and work involved wouldn't recommend that with so many great options out there.
I've heard nothing but bad experiences with Code Rs from other everyday riders and from enduro racers that have used them because their bike came with them stock.
If you had Code RSC I'd recommend using the levers with Dominion A4 calipers but with Code R unfortunately you will have to replace the whole...
If you had Code RSC I'd recommend using the levers with Dominion A4 calipers but with Code R unfortunately you will have to replace the whole brake system to get worthwhile improvements for your money. Code RSC levers will improve performance but for the cost and work involved wouldn't recommend that with so many great options out there.
I've heard nothing but bad experiences with Code Rs from other everyday riders and from enduro racers that have used them because their bike came with them stock.
Yeah I'm seeing that perspective. Full set of A4s or Cura 4s on the other site can be had for about $250. Sets of MT7s for $400. At this point I wonder which brand has better Matchmaker compatibility.
Yeah I'm seeing that perspective. Full set of A4s or Cura 4s on the other site can be had for about $250. Sets of MT7s for...
Yeah I'm seeing that perspective. Full set of A4s or Cura 4s on the other site can be had for about $250. Sets of MT7s for $400. At this point I wonder which brand has better Matchmaker compatibility.
Matchmakers clamps deliver sub-par ergonomics on Hayes, Magura, Formula, and possibly (probably) all twin bolt clamp brake levers. IME it's much better to use discrete clamps.
Sram and Shimano levers and shifters can be combined interchangeably to achieve good ergonomics.
I don't know how well the newer clamps on TRP or Hope levers work.
Matchmakers clamps deliver sub-par ergonomics on Hayes, Magura, Formula, and possibly (probably) all twin bolt clamp brake levers. IME it's much better to use discrete clamps.Sram...
Matchmakers clamps deliver sub-par ergonomics on Hayes, Magura, Formula, and possibly (probably) all twin bolt clamp brake levers. IME it's much better to use discrete clamps.
Sram and Shimano levers and shifters can be combined interchangeably to achieve good ergonomics.
I don't know how well the newer clamps on TRP or Hope levers work.
Formula Matchmaker adapter has more range of rotational adjustment than Hayes or Magura but I know from personal experience that the wolftooth magura shiftmount to matchmaker adapter does work also with formula levers. Not sure if it works with Hayes but I would think so.
If that doesn't work for the exact shifter placement you want than yeah thin split band clamp like bikeyoke split clamp are your best bet.
I think maybe the Cura levers have a thinner master cylinder than Hayes or Magura which helps too. But I gave up trying with Matchmakers when using any 2-bolt clamps.
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.What I'm wondering is if the...
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without was slightly less than the difference between bumping up one rotor size (+20mm). So it adds power, but not worlds of power.
Which brings me to another question: what size brake rotors and what pads are you running? I ran 220 HS2 rotors and SRAM metallic pads on the DB8's (no swinglink) and had power for days for all the riding around here, and that's as a decently heavy guy with the heaviest wheels in the world (dual 29" DH tires with Cushcore on alloy rims). I actually liked riding the DB8's more than Mavens for the trails around me, but that would likely be different if I were banging out laps at Whistler or Morzine.
For what it's worth, from what I have read, SRAM suggests that if your rotors are showing a purple or rainbow discoloration, they are running too...
For what it's worth, from what I have read, SRAM suggests that if your rotors are showing a purple or rainbow discoloration, they are running too hot, and you should size up. If the rotors are browned or bronzed, they are at the optimal size. If there's no distinct discoloration, they may not be getting hot enough, and you should consider sizing down, so it it kinda depends on the specific color.
Sram would have to make decent rotors before I take that seriously haha. I do not understand how sram makes such bad rotors.
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope...
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.What I'm wondering is if the...
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are...
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are really key to making them work well. I've owned Code RSCs, rented bikes with Code Rs, and now own 3 pairs of Maven Ults.
Better brake pads than the stock SRAM ones will help also. I found the SRAM sintered pads for Codes to be pretty meh. Just about any aftermarket pad will be better (Galfer, MTX, etc.). The SRAM pads for Mavens got a lot better. And thicker rotors like HS2s.
RS is also very good (had the swinglink), but other than Guides, how many RS brakes were even available?
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.What I'm wondering is if the...
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without...
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without was slightly less than the difference between bumping up one rotor size (+20mm). So it adds power, but not worlds of power.
Which brings me to another question: what size brake rotors and what pads are you running? I ran 220 HS2 rotors and SRAM metallic pads on the DB8's (no swinglink) and had power for days for all the riding around here, and that's as a decently heavy guy with the heaviest wheels in the world (dual 29" DH tires with Cushcore on alloy rims). I actually liked riding the DB8's more than Mavens for the trails around me, but that would likely be different if I were banging out laps at Whistler or Morzine.
I've not touched the rotors. It came with Centerline 200s. I always suspected those to are junk, as even though my pistons are fairly even, the brakes still make that gurgling noise.
i mean, the centerline are garbage, the hs2 have a nice braking surface but the spokes are too thin and flexy, they get out of true...
i mean, the centerline are garbage, the hs2 have a nice braking surface but the spokes are too thin and flexy, they get out of true easily
I've had a lot of issues with the HS2 rotors too, they warp almost as bad as the centerlines do. Seem to not take the heat very well even compared to other simple non floating steel rotors. Sram rotors also are the most consistently warped out of the box in my experience, and Sram brakes have the highest percentage of warranty issues that I deal with in the shop, usually the levers.
As far as the color thing goes, I checked the temperatures steel changes color at, and it's a very small difference in temp between brownish and purple blue.
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without...
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without was slightly less than the difference between bumping up one rotor size (+20mm). So it adds power, but not worlds of power.
Which brings me to another question: what size brake rotors and what pads are you running? I ran 220 HS2 rotors and SRAM metallic pads on the DB8's (no swinglink) and had power for days for all the riding around here, and that's as a decently heavy guy with the heaviest wheels in the world (dual 29" DH tires with Cushcore on alloy rims). I actually liked riding the DB8's more than Mavens for the trails around me, but that would likely be different if I were banging out laps at Whistler or Morzine.
I've had a lot of issues with the HS2 rotors too, they warp almost as bad as the centerlines do. Seem to not take the heat...
I've had a lot of issues with the HS2 rotors too, they warp almost as bad as the centerlines do. Seem to not take the heat very well even compared to other simple non floating steel rotors. Sram rotors also are the most consistently warped out of the box in my experience, and Sram brakes have the highest percentage of warranty issues that I deal with in the shop, usually the levers.
As far as the color thing goes, I checked the temperatures steel changes color at, and it's a very small difference in temp between brownish and purple blue.
I really am not surprised
I even had to warranty one as it was completely warped out of the box, like seriously bent
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know hope and Magura prefer their vented/floating as the track moves to be inline to reduce vibration.
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know...
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know hope and Magura prefer their vented/floating as the track moves to be inline to reduce vibration.
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later annealed by heating, resulting in deformation. Could be a factor.
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know...
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know hope and Magura prefer their vented/floating as the track moves to be inline to reduce vibration.
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later...
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later annealed by heating, resulting in deformation. Could be a factor.
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast, but the heat might be an issue.
Who do you think has the best venting pattern on their rotors?
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know...
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know hope and Magura prefer their vented/floating as the track moves to be inline to reduce vibration.
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later...
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later annealed by heating, resulting in deformation. Could be a factor.
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast...
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast, but the heat might be an issue.
Who do you think has the best venting pattern on their rotors?
Id like to assume they all do it like Hope... Laser cut and then heat treated, im assuming the stamped rotors are not treated.
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later...
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later annealed by heating, resulting in deformation. Could be a factor.
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast...
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast, but the heat might be an issue.
Who do you think has the best venting pattern on their rotors?
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope...
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.What I'm wondering is if the...
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
Its quite a big difference, my bike came with code r that I hated, eventually picked up a set of rsc levers and they were absolutely night and day. Much more power and better feel with the bearing etc. I swapped one lever over first and gave it a poke down the driveway and was very surprised at how much better it was. I've kept them on now and went straight to RSCs on my next bike. They are still not a nice as something like dominions but I don't think they are any worse than a 4 pot shimano. I dont buy that the power difference is the same as a 20mm rotor swap, I did that first (200 to 220) and while it was better it was nothing like the swap to the rsc lever. You would want to get the lever fairly cheap, I paid under half retail but if dominions were not pretty pricey here I'd still run them instead.
do you believe everything on the TV or only read what you want, does everyone live your life for you?
We work with DTswiss and their supply chain to us... So id like to safely assume their more insider stuff is true than what a press release reads.
When i worked at a previous job, Our Press releases for media were often twisted truths.
Are the Code Rs on my Spartan worth tinkering with to improve? Say, adding Code RSC levers?
Or should I get MT7s, Cura 4s, Dominions, Lewis, Hope, DHRs? (Bonus points to not having to run new brake lines and Matchmaker compatible). There are just so many choices now I'm not sure which way to go, but I have read the Code Rs are bottom tier.
I took it out last night for a post-winter shakedown and though they are noticeably stronger than the Guide RSCs on my other bike, they have never felt adequate for what I use the bike for; I like riding steep jank and tough natural features.
What do you all think?
The Code R's do not have the swing link I think its called and it changes the feel a fair amount.
getting the rsc lever will only polish the turd, still a very meh brake will be and at a big expense, i'd rather pair the calipers with some Tech 4 masters if you really want to change levers only.
Better brakes will definitely improve your riding experience.
and don't be lazy either install the new lines it's a 5/10min job depending on the bike, on the first pages of this discussion there's some reccomendations based on budget and lever feel you're after but any of the options other than Lewis are solid, for what you're riding i'd go for the Hope T4V4, Huge power, Huge Modulation, light lever, look good, easy to service, not too expensive
Yeah that's the impetus behind just getting a set of used Code RSC masters. I'd just change the top half. Easy.
What I'm wondering is if the the performance difference between R and RSC is significant, or marginal. I don't know anyone with Code RSCs so I cannot test them.
The performance difference is tangible for sure. Once you get into the heavier braking the power ramps up more, it feels less “woody” in the middle to end part of the lever stroke compared to the R. If you want a real upgrade in power, Mavens or Hope Tech 4.
My hot take is SRAM brakes that aren't the RSC (now SLV/Silver) model aren't worth using for aggressive riding. The Swing link and Contact adjuster are really key to making them work well. I've owned Code RSCs, rented bikes with Code Rs, and now own 3 pairs of Maven Ults.
Better brake pads than the stock SRAM ones will help also. I found the SRAM sintered pads for Codes to be pretty meh. Just about any aftermarket pad will be better (Galfer, MTX, etc.). The SRAM pads for Mavens got a lot better. And thicker rotors like HS2s.
I have Trucker Co gold pads in the mail that I will try.
If you had Code RSC I'd recommend using the levers with Dominion A4 calipers but with Code R unfortunately you will have to replace the whole brake system to get worthwhile improvements for your money. Code RSC levers will improve performance but for the cost and work involved wouldn't recommend that with so many great options out there.
I've heard nothing but bad experiences with Code Rs from other everyday riders and from enduro racers that have used them because their bike came with them stock.
Yeah I'm seeing that perspective. Full set of A4s or Cura 4s on the other site can be had for about $250. Sets of MT7s for $400. At this point I wonder which brand has better Matchmaker compatibility.
Matchmakers clamps deliver sub-par ergonomics on Hayes, Magura, Formula, and possibly (probably) all twin bolt clamp brake levers. IME it's much better to use discrete clamps.
Sram and Shimano levers and shifters can be combined interchangeably to achieve good ergonomics.
I don't know how well the newer clamps on TRP or Hope levers work.
Formula Matchmaker adapter has more range of rotational adjustment than Hayes or Magura but I know from personal experience that the wolftooth magura shiftmount to matchmaker adapter does work also with formula levers. Not sure if it works with Hayes but I would think so.
If that doesn't work for the exact shifter placement you want than yeah thin split band clamp like bikeyoke split clamp are your best bet.
I think maybe the Cura levers have a thinner master cylinder than Hayes or Magura which helps too. But I gave up trying with Matchmakers when using any 2-bolt clamps.
When I interviewed SRAM's Chris Mandell about the DB8 recently, he said the difference in brake power between a lever with Swinglink and a lever without was slightly less than the difference between bumping up one rotor size (+20mm). So it adds power, but not worlds of power.
Which brings me to another question: what size brake rotors and what pads are you running? I ran 220 HS2 rotors and SRAM metallic pads on the DB8's (no swinglink) and had power for days for all the riding around here, and that's as a decently heavy guy with the heaviest wheels in the world (dual 29" DH tires with Cushcore on alloy rims). I actually liked riding the DB8's more than Mavens for the trails around me, but that would likely be different if I were banging out laps at Whistler or Morzine.
Sram would have to make decent rotors before I take that seriously haha. I do not understand how sram makes such bad rotors.
i mean, the centerline are garbage, the hs2 have a nice braking surface but the spokes are too thin and flexy, they get out of true easily
Very significant.
RS is also very good (had the swinglink), but other than Guides, how many RS brakes were even available?
I've not touched the rotors. It came with Centerline 200s. I always suspected those to are junk, as even though my pistons are fairly even, the brakes still make that gurgling noise.
I've had a lot of issues with the HS2 rotors too, they warp almost as bad as the centerlines do. Seem to not take the heat very well even compared to other simple non floating steel rotors. Sram rotors also are the most consistently warped out of the box in my experience, and Sram brakes have the highest percentage of warranty issues that I deal with in the shop, usually the levers.
As far as the color thing goes, I checked the temperatures steel changes color at, and it's a very small difference in temp between brownish and purple blue.
I thought you were #mullet4lyfe??
I really am not surprised
I even had to warranty one as it was completely warped out of the box, like seriously bent
cant be as bad as my TRP r1 rotors lol - bought 10 pairs off a shop that was shutting, they were dreadful. atleast half were bent from new
sometimes i wonder if they're even checked from factories, so far the rs01 and rs05 were almost perfect for me, but i guess it's luck at this point
looking back at rotors i've had, Theres alot more 'bad ones' than good ones, like whats honestly so hard to make a flat rotor? I know hope and Magura prefer their vented/floating as the track moves to be inline to reduce vibration.
If steel has been cold formed/worked, or heated without subsequent uniform cooling, it can end up with uneven residual stresses that get released when it's later annealed by heating, resulting in deformation. Could be a factor.
Absolutely could be a factor. I've been wondering how most companies make their rotors. I would assume laser cutting would be the best, efficient and fast, but the heat might be an issue.
Who do you think has the best venting pattern on their rotors?
Id like to assume they all do it like Hope... Laser cut and then heat treated, im assuming the stamped rotors are not treated.
https://nsmb.com/articles/galfer-rotors-and-pads/#:~:text=All%20of%20Galfer's%20rotors%20are,heat%20treated%20for%20each%20application.
here they explain a bit how the Galfer ones are made
Its quite a big difference, my bike came with code r that I hated, eventually picked up a set of rsc levers and they were absolutely night and day. Much more power and better feel with the bearing etc. I swapped one lever over first and gave it a poke down the driveway and was very surprised at how much better it was. I've kept them on now and went straight to RSCs on my next bike. They are still not a nice as something like dominions but I don't think they are any worse than a 4 pot shimano. I dont buy that the power difference is the same as a 20mm rotor swap, I did that first (200 to 220) and while it was better it was nothing like the swap to the rsc lever. You would want to get the lever fairly cheap, I paid under half retail but if dominions were not pretty pricey here I'd still run them instead.
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