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Yes, cannot do a brand new bleed like this. It's for the last bit of air.
Truely awesome now. Why can't they just just a bleeding edge port on lever and caliper?
They as in Hope? Other than Sram nobody does the bleeding edge. But yes, a world full of bleeding edges would be a wonderful world. It does take up quite a lot of space depth wise so I guess that is part of the reason why it's not used on the levers (Sram makes flippy-floppy levers and that would require two bleeding edges).
Radic Kaha have Bleeding edge, i don't understand the hype around it to be honest but happy to be enlightened. It doesn't feel a 100% success rate bleeding system to me.
Hopes actually are good to bleed if you excuse the last step. You don't actually need a kit in a pinch and you can do it with the pads in.
Wonder if you could mod a v4 resi to the same as a maxima one with the port on the vertical outside edge of the reservoir.
i guess you could by drilling a hole and threading it with a nice bolt, possibly one from another manufacturer, it's all alloy at the end of the day, and placing it in the right spot so that the diaphragm doesn't trap any air, opposite of what lewis did making sure air gets trapped by positioning the bleed hole in the worst spot
Or I guess we can wait patiently for v5 levers 🤷
Actually looks like you could get a good angle by just orienting the brake lever fully downwards. That bleed port (if that’s what it is) would pretty much be at the highest point of the reservoir in that position. And there’s nothing around the inside of the reaervoir to trap air there.
it's all speculation of course, but from this picture it's not at the highest point, therefore air can be trapped under the diaphragm, we'll see
Seems like an afterthought--disappointing
It should be on the lid, that way you could update them.
That would be pretty ugly, but more importantly it wouldn’t work because the diaphragm sits there, right under the cover.
I’ll wait for v6s if that’s it for v5s
Thanks for reposting this, great tip. I put some code rsc’s on my e-bike and didn’t know the contact adjustment changed the lever stiffness and power delivery so significantly. Tested today and they feel sweet
That was the post I was thinking of, thank you. I also think it was by Cascade Components. I also recall that the Blister Gear Review guy observed the same phenomenon in his review of the Mavens.
Although I think the above reference to "wound all the way in" is the opposite of how the adjuster dials are marked. Winding the adjuster in the direction of the arrow (which says "in") feels higher leverage / easier, and in the opposite direction of the arrow feels lower leverage/harder. I could be wrong though, for reason below.
I was messing around with the dials in my garage after my post & people calling me out, and the other thing I observed was that could be happening is running the C adjuster fully in for the same lever reach position means that the lever locks up the brake when the lever is closer to the bar. And your finger's grip strength becomes greater the closer it gets to a fully closed fist position... think about trying to do a pullup just from your fingertips in a C-shape vs. doing one with them fully wrapped around a pullup bar.
Regardless of whether the cause is from the system or biomechanical, it's less fatiguing to run the contact adjuster inward.
You're welcome. I thought it was Cascade as well, but didn't want to throw a name around without being sure. I think the post means that the longer the lever throw, the more power you get from the swinglink. In other words, it's really about the length of throw rather than how to close to the bar as far as swinglink.
As to where your end / almost locked lever position is relative to the bar, the conventional wisdom I've always heard is that closer to the bar gives you more power and helps with forearm pump and further from the bar gives you more sensitivity or fidelity. But I'd love to hear opinions.
And for all the other OCD people out there who ride with gloves, does having the lever rest further from the bar seem to cause your gloves to bunch up a touch under your palm. I think it's something to do with rotating your hand forward a little bit to grab the lever in the sweet spot of your finger.
Another photo of the Fox USD fork turned up in the rumours thread and I had an opportunity to have a look at the brake mount treatment.
How sturdy are the brake mounts on these things?
According to Intend and Bright, they are more stiff and aligned than conventional pm mounts, they both say you'd get more power from the same brake setup because of that.
You can run the contact point adjuster all the way in and still have the lever far from the bar if you like that by running the reach adjust all the way out. But that means you have to reach for the lever as you mentioned. Not a problem if you have spaghetti length fingers, but I guess having shorter fingers limits you in options brake lever setup wise.
So I rode my trail bike this last weekend, which has code rsc, 200mm hs2 rotors, metallic pads and freedom coast levers. I was blown away by how sketchy the brakes felt on this bike after riding my santacruz bullit with maven's on it and my nomad with trp dhr evo's so much lately. Granted, the route we were riding had one descent that was 1.26 miles and -26% grade (1,700 elevation lost) and another that was 3 miles long and -15% grade (2,300' elevation lost). By the time I was towards the bottom of those I was yanking the levers as hard as I could.
Honestly the current crop of brakes, mavens, trp dhr, hayes dominion, etc are so good. It's crazy to go back to a brake that I felt so confident with for years and feel like they were completely sketchy. I think I just hit the point where I need to move on from codes entirely... I thought that I would keep them on my trail bike and while they work for shorter descents... the big mountain steep descents are pretty scary when you're at the limits of what your brakes want to tolerate.
To pour gasoline on the fire, is it just me or are those descents neither long nor steep?
To be fair those are solid downhills to appreciate a good set of brakes especially if you are doing a top to bottom run. The roughness and the speed matters.
Funny enough, back in my XC racing days on east coast I used to run SRAM level 2 piston brakes and 160mm Ashima Aoro rotors. They were on my bike for nearly 4 years so clearly they didn't bother me. When I moved to the mountains and was introduced to steep and long descents I started appreciating brakes. Soon enough the "notoriously powerful" Code RSC were painful to hang on to for fast top to bottom runs. I retired the codes to my 27lb short travel trail bike and I still don't like them. Sure I can get used to them and accept the pain but why? Someone once told me that brakes are like spicy food, you build a tolerance to them. Regular food will taste bland once you're used to the 🌶️Same can be applied to suspension or any other critical bike component.
A mile long trail with an average grade of -26% is steep, especially when you factor what the anti-grip conditions in southern california are like. Since it's an average of -26% and there are not only flat sections but 2 short stabs at uphill... there are plenty of -32 to - 40% grade sections.
We had an enduro event here recently on these trails (trans santa ana enduro)... there were many pro and semi-pro riders that attended and many of them were sketched out by the remoteness and difficulty of the trails. Each one of these usually has a rut full of rubble and debris that crosses the trail over and over at the worst possible times.
Not that I need validation, but this is in the Santa Ana mountains in southern california. I'm happy to show anyone the goods here... but it involves a lot of suffering on the way up, and a lot of brake and tire destroying conditions on the way down. It's tempting to bring a light weight bike with lighter weigh tires, that can at times be a mistake.
Diablo 👹. Was out there on a work trip and rode Corona. Definitely appreciate what you're saying
Doing a 30 percent average grade trail is nothing out of the norm for our neck of the woods but for me it's not something that causes problems to the brakes... (running Code RSCs). My comment was aimed at that if that kind of gradient is causing problems, it's really a big problem with the brakes (as I don't have these kinds of problems with the same brake on a similar terrain steepnes wise) or that the gradient itself is not a good measure for how hard the trail is on the brakes. Looks like it's the latter here.
Also, antigrip, what does that look like in your case? We have limestone at home which is really slimy and being on vacation on Sardinia right now (no bike, hiking only) it's mind boggling again how much grip granite has compared to limestone... So ground conditions other than steepness apparently play a big role.
Is there any actual data on the topic of storing a bike vertical vs horisontal when it comes to wandering bitepoint issues?
I just feel it would be good to just store a bike vertical regardless of what brakes you got, but so far my impression is that this issue depends on what brakes you got. So, will a vertically stored bike be more prone to wandering bitepoint just in general(and if so, why...) or is it more down to the design of each brake?
Not really, if there’s no air in the system it shouldn’t matter how it’s stored
But I see that Saint/zee and especially the lower end shimano ones ( deore and below ) tend to leak if stored for long or in a hot room while vertical
Anyone ever run into a new rotor that just won't hold a true? A while back I picked up a set of Galfer Waves cheap from Europe, and months later got around to installing them. One of them has a wobble in 1 particular spot that keeps coming back no matter how many times I straighten it out. The problem spot is in the middle of 2 arms, and I feel like the arced arms are so far apart it's difficult to get it corrected without moving the spots where the arms meet the outer rotor out of true.
I would double/triple check that your rotors are centered to your caliper. Sometimes, they may be centered between your brake pads, but not necessarily to your caliper. When you squeeze your brakes, check to see if the rotors "bend" towards one direction or another.
With that said, I've also owned Galfer Waves and they did have a tendancy to bend, but in all fairness, all rotors I've owned all seem to go slightly out of true for one reason or another. I am using my rotor truing tool rather frequently
Yeah, I'm not talking about it warping during a ride... I can straighten it with the tool, spin the wheel and it stays clear for maybe 1 revolution then goes back to being out of true, both in the caliper and in a trueing stand. It doesn't matter how many times I fix it, it keeps going back to the same slightly bent shape in the exact same location.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment