@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why don't we see more manufacturers going with smaller MC bores ? Considering power is dictated by the ratio MC/Caliper it seems to be a valid way to gain power. Hope finally coped on with their new lever, Hayes and Trickstuff also use a 9mm bore MC so why not going 7 or 8mm if you need even more power and keep caliper pistons arround 15/16mm for a 4 piston ?
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why...
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why don't we see more manufacturers going with smaller MC bores ? Considering power is dictated by the ratio MC/Caliper it seems to be a valid way to gain power. Hope finally coped on with their new lever, Hayes and Trickstuff also use a 9mm bore MC so why not going 7 or 8mm if you need even more power and keep caliper pistons arround 15/16mm for a 4 piston ?
Larger ratio between lever and caliper means more lever travel to move the pistons. Then you run into pad clearance issues (say hello FormulasR1's).
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why...
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why don't we see more manufacturers going with smaller MC bores ? Considering power is dictated by the ratio MC/Caliper it seems to be a valid way to gain power. Hope finally coped on with their new lever, Hayes and Trickstuff also use a 9mm bore MC so why not going 7 or 8mm if you need even more power and keep caliper pistons arround 15/16mm for a 4 piston ?
Larger ratio between lever and caliper means more lever travel to move the pistons. Then you run into pad clearance issues (say hello FormulasR1's).
What are you talking about ? All MC from Formula from that era were 11.5mm which is rather big, aside from the R1R lever that came towards the end of that era of brakes which was 9.75mm. You can also end-up with a lot of lever throw because of your lever design and mechanical leverage. Considering the hydro leverage that was rather poor on this generation of brakes, long throw had to be due to lever blade design.
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why...
@CascasdeComponents: about your last point, rather than going with bigger pistons at the Caliper which seems to be a problem and add unsprung weigth too, why don't we see more manufacturers going with smaller MC bores ? Considering power is dictated by the ratio MC/Caliper it seems to be a valid way to gain power. Hope finally coped on with their new lever, Hayes and Trickstuff also use a 9mm bore MC so why not going 7 or 8mm if you need even more power and keep caliper pistons arround 15/16mm for a 4 piston ?
What are you talking about ? All MC from Formula from that era were 11.5mm which is rather big, aside from the R1R lever that came...
What are you talking about ? All MC from Formula from that era were 11.5mm which is rather big, aside from the R1R lever that came towards the end of that era of brakes which was 9.75mm. You can also end-up with a lot of lever throw because of your lever design and mechanical leverage. Considering the hydro leverage that was rather poor on this generation of brakes, long throw had to be due to lever blade design.
Smaller pistons overall mean more pressure in the system (for the same clamping force in the caliper). Might mean more difference front to rear as the hose will deform differently (will take up more volume due to more expansion).
As for lever throw, there is still the option of swing links and the like. But yeah, we are fairly limited with available lever throw and force due to the overall system - the fingers have a finite length and strength. The envelope mtb brake designers work in are fairly limited while the users want more power and more pad clearance. And a low cost. Now pick two.
Yeah it's still a custom tool even for two piece calipers. Conveniently it's an angle that taper mills exist in so it's just a matter of getting most of the upper portion of the flutes ground off so that it can undercut. With a single piece caliper it would have to be a ground down dovetail or something entirely custom. Both of those are definitely trickier to source, but not impossible.
Decreasing MC size gives you higher brake line pressures. Code levers hit 3000 psi easily as is. I would be hesitant to increase that further considering there's another upside to larger calipers... heat. More fluid volume and more caliper surface area helps a fair bit when it comes to dealing with heat. I don't think the unsprung mass is a big hit considering our calipers are only 7g heavier than Code calipers. I think you could go even larger and not take a huge hit on weight.
Increasing power does have some unavoidable consequences with either lever feel or pad retract. If you decrease pad retract the lever feel can stay where you want it, but your rotors have to be absolutely true to not ping off the pads. I tried super small pad retract like that and couldn't get the pads to never rub. It didn't create significant drag, but the rubbing sound is annoying. If you add too much more ramp to the lever early in it's stroke you can get a funny sticky feeling in the early stroke. I messed around with cam geometry a fair bit to try and find the point where ramp is increased without running into that sensation. If you go to crazy with the ramp you definitely run into hand fatigue issues when trailing the brakes. At the end of the day I think a combination of the two is the way to go. I think It would be possible to add another 15% at least and still have the levers feel good.
Cars and motorcycles get the super high braking power they need without feeling like absolute mush by having negligible pad retract and having the rotor or caliper float side to side. The drag is minimal, but that's relative the power put out by a motor. Plus you can't hear rotors rubbing over all the other noise.
Cars gain most of the power through the booster. It's not the case for motorcycles though. On motorbikes this is not the case. On the other hand most motorcycle riders two finger brake?
Increasing the power by 15 % by fiddling with the cams, is it impacted by the tolerances (i.e. do they have to be really tight, so the mechanism would be expensive to make)?
Cars gain most of the power through the booster. It's not the case for motorcycles though. On motorbikes this is not the case. On the other...
Cars gain most of the power through the booster. It's not the case for motorcycles though. On motorbikes this is not the case. On the other hand most motorcycle riders two finger brake?
Increasing the power by 15 % by fiddling with the cams, is it impacted by the tolerances (i.e. do they have to be really tight, so the mechanism would be expensive to make)?
Well yeah there's the booster too, but if you had the pads retract it would be absolutely horrendous braking. You can also stop most regular vehicles without the booster though. Provided that does involve a whole lot of standing on the brake pedal.
Cams are super easy to do with really tight tolerances. It's all in the same set up.
Yeah it's still a custom tool even for two piece calipers. Conveniently it's an angle that taper mills exist in so it's just a matter of...
Yeah it's still a custom tool even for two piece calipers. Conveniently it's an angle that taper mills exist in so it's just a matter of getting most of the upper portion of the flutes ground off so that it can undercut. With a single piece caliper it would have to be a ground down dovetail or something entirely custom. Both of those are definitely trickier to source, but not impossible.
Decreasing MC size gives you higher brake line pressures. Code levers hit 3000 psi easily as is. I would be hesitant to increase that further considering there's another upside to larger calipers... heat. More fluid volume and more caliper surface area helps a fair bit when it comes to dealing with heat. I don't think the unsprung mass is a big hit considering our calipers are only 7g heavier than Code calipers. I think you could go even larger and not take a huge hit on weight.
Increasing power does have some unavoidable consequences with either lever feel or pad retract. If you decrease pad retract the lever feel can stay where you want it, but your rotors have to be absolutely true to not ping off the pads. I tried super small pad retract like that and couldn't get the pads to never rub. It didn't create significant drag, but the rubbing sound is annoying. If you add too much more ramp to the lever early in it's stroke you can get a funny sticky feeling in the early stroke. I messed around with cam geometry a fair bit to try and find the point where ramp is increased without running into that sensation. If you go to crazy with the ramp you definitely run into hand fatigue issues when trailing the brakes. At the end of the day I think a combination of the two is the way to go. I think It would be possible to add another 15% at least and still have the levers feel good.
Cars and motorcycles get the super high braking power they need without feeling like absolute mush by having negligible pad retract and having the rotor or caliper float side to side. The drag is minimal, but that's relative the power put out by a motor. Plus you can't hear rotors rubbing over all the other noise.
Why didn't you go that route with your calipers? Just like the Gustav M was? I mean that is just the technique, and as we all like to wrench I don't think the maintenance would be the problem. That was an amazing brake, too bad the adaption to PM is such a pain, as disk sizes changed as well..
BTW, I have the North Forks, really loving them, just have one piston that is slightly wet, but I will, for the moment, just monitor that...
Why didn't you go that route with your calipers? Just like the Gustav M was? I mean that is just the technique, and as we all...
Why didn't you go that route with your calipers? Just like the Gustav M was? I mean that is just the technique, and as we all like to wrench I don't think the maintenance would be the problem. That was an amazing brake, too bad the adaption to PM is such a pain, as disk sizes changed as well..
BTW, I have the North Forks, really loving them, just have one piston that is slightly wet, but I will, for the moment, just monitor that...
It's just another hurdle to install something. Part of the idea with those calipers was to have as much cross compatibility as possible. It turns into an even more expensive pain really quick.
Oh and if you need to replace that seal let us know. Every now and then defective seals pop up and we'll gladly send out a fresh set.
It's just another hurdle to install something. Part of the idea with those calipers was to have as much cross compatibility as possible. It turns into...
It's just another hurdle to install something. Part of the idea with those calipers was to have as much cross compatibility as possible. It turns into an even more expensive pain really quick.
Oh and if you need to replace that seal let us know. Every now and then defective seals pop up and we'll gladly send out a fresh set.
Sorry if I'm uninformed, but you guys make brakes too?
Speaking of Gustavs, you mean the sliding caliper? Cars use those calipers because it means you have a single-sided caliper. Wheel fitment is easier (the caliper doesn't protrude out as much), all the hydraulics are single sided, etc. The issue is that the pins where the caliper slides on notoriously seize up. And cars usually have enough side-to-side space to have it properly supported to not bind, could be an issue on bikes too. I really wouldn't want that on my bike to be honest, what we have works plenty fine compared tot he potential problems (and marginal gains) the Gustav approach would bring.
Also, why the downvotes on the booster comment on the last page? o.O
There's literally nothing downvote worthy in it, it's all correct.
hitar accidentally triple-posted, Jon was joking haha (i deleted the excess posts)
Sorry, not sure if it’s my phone or if it’s the internet network that freezes the website sometimes - wasn’t intentional.
ONTOPIC - really interested in the possibility of a 220mm D-series rotor. Does someone know someone in Hayes that can unofficially confirm it’s gonna happen for us regular folks and it’s not just a proto for the Gamux racing team? 😁
Sorry, not sure if it’s my phone or if it’s the internet network that freezes the website sometimes - wasn’t intentional.
ONTOPIC - really interested in...
Sorry, not sure if it’s my phone or if it’s the internet network that freezes the website sometimes - wasn’t intentional.
ONTOPIC - really interested in the possibility of a 220mm D-series rotor. Does someone know someone in Hayes that can unofficially confirm it’s gonna happen for us regular folks and it’s not just a proto for the Gamux racing team? 😁
They did one years ago. I'm not sure if they ever sold them to bike companies, but early ZERO electric motorcycles used them. I've got some on my trials bike.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly offset and tilted reservoir. Found it in Marzocchi Germany's web shop.
[img]https://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/forums/2022/06/11/12594/s1200_Marzocchi.jpg[/img]
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly...
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly offset and tilted reservoir. Found it in Marzocchi Germany's web shop.
Anybody else not that excited? All I want from Marzocchi is a long-travel coil fork, preferrably in an upside-down arrangement.
Curious! Marz claiming it’s for frame comparability & ergonomics - interesting to see them have a new development of their own? Everything else has just been tweaked Fox stuff.
Sorry, not sure if it’s my phone or if it’s the internet network that freezes the website sometimes - wasn’t intentional.
ONTOPIC - really interested in...
Sorry, not sure if it’s my phone or if it’s the internet network that freezes the website sometimes - wasn’t intentional.
ONTOPIC - really interested in the possibility of a 220mm D-series rotor. Does someone know someone in Hayes that can unofficially confirm it’s gonna happen for us regular folks and it’s not just a proto for the Gamux racing team? 😁
They did one years ago. I'm not sure if they ever sold them to bike companies, but early ZERO electric motorcycles used them. I've got some...
They did one years ago. I'm not sure if they ever sold them to bike companies, but early ZERO electric motorcycles used them. I've got some on my trials bike.
You mean the v9 old design? I had the v8 - 203mm. Although they were OK, i changed them with Shimano rt-76 and never looked back. - they were so much better. Now i’m on Dominions with the D-series rotors, but 203/180 combo and wanna go to 220/220 (i tend to reach the heat limits of 203 rotors).
[img]https://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/forums/2022/06/11/12594/s1200_Marzocchi.jpg[/img]
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly...
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly offset and tilted reservoir. Found it in Marzocchi Germany's web shop.
You mean the v9 old design? I had the v8 - 203mm. Although they were OK, i changed them with Shimano rt-76 and never looked back...
You mean the v9 old design? I had the v8 - 203mm. Although they were OK, i changed them with Shimano rt-76 and never looked back. - they were so much better. Now i’m on Dominions with the D-series rotors, but 203/180 combo and wanna go to 220/220 (i tend to reach the heat limits of 203 rotors).
Whenever it was that they made the Stroker Ace brakes. A good while ago.
[img]https://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/forums/2022/06/11/12594/s1200_Marzocchi.jpg[/img]
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly...
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly offset and tilted reservoir. Found it in Marzocchi Germany's web shop.
Curious! Marz claiming it’s for frame comparability & ergonomics - interesting to see them have a new development of their own? Everything else has just been...
Curious! Marz claiming it’s for frame comparability & ergonomics - interesting to see them have a new development of their own? Everything else has just been tweaked Fox stuff.
I could benefit of this design on my trek rail for example…
You mean the v9 old design? I had the v8 - 203mm. Although they were OK, i changed them with Shimano rt-76 and never looked back...
You mean the v9 old design? I had the v8 - 203mm. Although they were OK, i changed them with Shimano rt-76 and never looked back. - they were so much better. Now i’m on Dominions with the D-series rotors, but 203/180 combo and wanna go to 220/220 (i tend to reach the heat limits of 203 rotors).
Whenever it was that they made the Stroker Ace brakes. A good while ago.
Yep, that’s what i had - Stroker Aces with v8 rotors. Turned out the rt-76 were better with them brakes. Now however Hayes have done an outstanding job, just wanna go as big as possible - a D-series 220mm would be the perfect choice!
I knew about the groove being angled, but kinda ignored it here, obviously for the worse
Thanks for the in-depth, hands-on info!
As for lever throw, there is still the option of swing links and the like. But yeah, we are fairly limited with available lever throw and force due to the overall system - the fingers have a finite length and strength. The envelope mtb brake designers work in are fairly limited while the users want more power and more pad clearance. And a low cost. Now pick two.
Decreasing MC size gives you higher brake line pressures. Code levers hit 3000 psi easily as is. I would be hesitant to increase that further considering there's another upside to larger calipers... heat. More fluid volume and more caliper surface area helps a fair bit when it comes to dealing with heat. I don't think the unsprung mass is a big hit considering our calipers are only 7g heavier than Code calipers. I think you could go even larger and not take a huge hit on weight.
Increasing power does have some unavoidable consequences with either lever feel or pad retract. If you decrease pad retract the lever feel can stay where you want it, but your rotors have to be absolutely true to not ping off the pads. I tried super small pad retract like that and couldn't get the pads to never rub. It didn't create significant drag, but the rubbing sound is annoying. If you add too much more ramp to the lever early in it's stroke you can get a funny sticky feeling in the early stroke. I messed around with cam geometry a fair bit to try and find the point where ramp is increased without running into that sensation. If you go to crazy with the ramp you definitely run into hand fatigue issues when trailing the brakes. At the end of the day I think a combination of the two is the way to go. I think It would be possible to add another 15% at least and still have the levers feel good.
Cars and motorcycles get the super high braking power they need without feeling like absolute mush by having negligible pad retract and having the rotor or caliper float side to side. The drag is minimal, but that's relative the power put out by a motor. Plus you can't hear rotors rubbing over all the other noise.
Increasing the power by 15 % by fiddling with the cams, is it impacted by the tolerances (i.e. do they have to be really tight, so the mechanism would be expensive to make)?
Cams are super easy to do with really tight tolerances. It's all in the same set up.
BTW, I have the North Forks, really loving them, just have one piston that is slightly wet, but I will, for the moment, just monitor that...
Oh and if you need to replace that seal let us know. Every now and then defective seals pop up and we'll gladly send out a fresh set.
I see there's a replacement cam for the RSC brakes available too, didn't see that one before!
https://cascadecomponents.bike/products/brake-cams
Speaking of Gustavs, you mean the sliding caliper? Cars use those calipers because it means you have a single-sided caliper. Wheel fitment is easier (the caliper doesn't protrude out as much), all the hydraulics are single sided, etc. The issue is that the pins where the caliper slides on notoriously seize up. And cars usually have enough side-to-side space to have it properly supported to not bind, could be an issue on bikes too. I really wouldn't want that on my bike to be honest, what we have works plenty fine compared tot he potential problems (and marginal gains) the Gustav approach would bring.
Also, why the downvotes on the booster comment on the last page? o.O
There's literally nothing downvote worthy in it, it's all correct.
Pit bits 3 from Leogang, pic 26 (i think): Is this a proto Hayes D-series 220mm rotor? O_o
ONTOPIC - really interested in the possibility of a 220mm D-series rotor. Does someone know someone in Hayes that can unofficially confirm it’s gonna happen for us regular folks and it’s not just a proto for the Gamux racing team? 😁
New Marzocchi Bomber Air shock.
It seems to be very similar to a Fox Float X, but mirrored side to side and with a slightly offset and tilted reservoir. Found it in Marzocchi Germany's web shop.
https://www.marzocchi.de/collections/shocks/products/bomber-air?variant=42154242670745
Anybody else not that excited? All I want from Marzocchi is a long-travel coil fork, preferrably in an upside-down arrangement.
In a world of $700+ shocks, it would be awesome to see a decent air shock that can take some abuse at a significantly lower price