Hello Vital MTB Visitor,
We’re conducting a survey and would appreciate your input. Your answers will help Vital and the MTB industry better understand what riders like you want. Survey results will be used to recognize top brands. Make your voice heard!
Five lucky people will be selected at random to win a Vital MTB t-shirt.
Thanks in advance,
The Vital MTB Crew
Yet Pinion advertises in-hub motors as their electric solutions (admittedly, this is for commuter bikes).
I would really like to try out a Pinion bike. The Pinkbike review of the Tanihwa said that if you want a gearbox, don't go for that bike as the gearbox is not that refined. Nevertheless i think the 1x12 drivetrain is here to stay (where it will go from here i do not know). But the Pinion just looks like a match made in heaven for an electric drivetrain.
Oh, Continental (the tyre guys, who make only ~30 % of their business with tyres, the rest is done as an automotive systems supplier) bought out Nuvinci and use the CVT system in their commuter e-bike system.
Dropper-posts with forward offset to make up for crappy/slack STA
At 174cm and even inseam/torso the S2 size will be perfection for me. Well apart from the inevitable racist cable routing that all bikes seem to be adopting.
A forward offset post is a bandaid solution to a frame related issue. That needs to be fixed.
I completely agree with you about aluminum, I even consider steel as a frame material for my next rig!
But I'm not sure that increasing reach alone w/o increasing CS lenght does put your weight forward. I would quite think the opposite indeed, since the bottom half of your body (the heaviest part of it) is still quite at the same distance of the rear wheel (above the BB within a few centimeter), while being significantly further from the front wheel. Your shoulders and upper body are indeed stretched further but they will have to put much more force to give the bar enough charge in order to avoid the front wheel from wandering, wich is a theme that I've noticed on some recent reviews.
It requires a very active and strong riding style that suits skilled and pro riders but detriment in my eyes the avergae rider. IMHO Lengthening CS would greatly help to resolve this issue by balancing rider's weight more equally again.
Although I'm not an engineer and don't own an armchair so I may be completely off. Plus it's not the topic of this thread.
Nowadays SA have been corrected but you still have 3-4 years of bikes like mine who would greatly benefit from small tricks like this.
A steep seat tube angle (78°-ish) with 420 mm ish chainstays on an almost 1300 mm wheelbase would give you a better distribution (more weight on the front) than a large 2015 Giant Reign for the same rider (who would, at 190 cm, need an XL frame - me for example).
Plus i still think the rear axle should be as close as possible to the rear wheel for your feet to drive the rear better. Just like you have your hands relatively close to the front axle. You don't steer the rear through the handlebars and you don't steer the front with your feet (much).
Yep, like i said a few times, people are going ballistic over reach without even knowing what a long reach means or what causes it on the really modern (think Pole) bikes.
With the new RAD system, that had an article on Pinkbike, it's even worse i'd say. Another measurement that completely ignores the seat position.
For LLLLL:
This also might not be a solution. It will be better, angle wise, but you could put your suspension kinematics in a position, where the antisquat value will not be correct for the frame design and you'll induce some pedal bob (or, more likely due to a too high antisquat value, pedal jacking and then bobbing back down once you release the tension on the chain).
Sadly it's another bandaid solution to something that needs to be solved on the system (frame) level.
For guys between sizes M and L and either side of that border the seat angle is not an issue, since the advertised effective seat angle is mostly the angle they ride at, since the seat height is around the stack height (where the seat tube angle is then measured). For XL guys the seat is 20 cm higher up, which makes quite a difference when the actual angle of the tube is on the order of 70°.
The cycle industry is a joke, I was told by specialized that the reason my frame bearings wear out is that I ride in poor conditions for a lot of the year (UK). Nothing at all to do with their shit quality bearings and the piss poor sealing solution they've used.
The number of manufacturers that omit to have a drain hole in the bb is hilarious, it will fill up with water and kill the bb and dropper post.
Sram must specifically ask for shit quality bearings, jockey wheels, gxp bbs. Will add the exploding eagle deraileurs in their for an example of a lack of real world testing and validation.
Rebuilt a brand new Ibis mojo recently, someone has secured the head tube badge with self tapping screws, nice bit of delamination. What's wrong with 3m/loctite tape? Ah, you could be bothered to make the head tube and head tube badge fit properly...
Cycling industry is great at putting sticking plasters over problems, rather than delivering a product which is actually fit for purpose (properly designed, tested, validated).
The recent bible of bike tests and the pink bike Whistler review shows that there are a lot of expensive lemons out there. It's also interesting to see there is a divide between what the requirements of the US, EU and UK, all very different styles of riding.
Being a mechanical engineer, the Nicolai is currently top of the list as it ticks a lot of boxes:
-Adjustable
-proper bearings (including the shock)
-no internal cable routing (it adds weight, unless it's done properly it's annoying)
-Long chainstays!
I guess since this is bike wants, so as not to be accused of posting in the wrong post, I should say...
I want for Nicolai to have previously hired some new competent mechanical engineers.
As for jockey wheels, jezus christ what's wrong with them? I opened them up, disassembled them, covered them with anti-corrosive (Krown) to at least remove some rust, cleaned them up, filled them up with grease and two months later, they were dry and dirty. And we're talking about half a year old GX Eagle derailleur. No comment on the exploding part, mine works fine to be honest, it's actually not even finicky or anything, it really works. I even bashed it into a concrete block about a month ago and it's still shifting without issues without touching any of the adjusters.
More so than hole in the BB i'd like to see drain holes in shock mounts. Giant has made the same mistake with the current Reign as with the last one, there's a bathtub under the shock mount for water to collect, where it's held in by the shock bolt bearings, which rotate only as much as the shock pivots forwards on the bottom mount. So, basically, not at all. It's not a surprise they get seized up the first.
As for Nicolai, like i mentioned, it doesn't have a bottle cage mount. And regarding proper bearings, i think a lot could be done with grease ports. On pivots and on pedals as well. Just put a nipple on it and pack it with fresh grease from the inside. The bearings should be mounted into the frame instead of the rocker/chainstay/etc., the chainstay pivot of a horst-link bike can use two bearings either side to be greasable from the middle, etc. It might be hard to make all the pivot locations greasable like that, but at least half of them would be a progress.
I mean i'm weird after all, i do 10 kilometers of asphalt on my typical afternoon ride with my enduro bike to get to the start of the climb and from the end of the descent.
I also think that technique and fitness plays such huge part in climbing and most guys are nowhere near as good as they can be.
Plus, who says a properly fitting bike can't be fun on the downs?
A good seated position will get you up without too much pain, a good standing attack position will get you down fast and safe. Both can be combined.
Post a reply to: 2020 Bike Wants