see if you can have some smartie or fast person watch you ride. I’ll bet the culprit is your suspension. Is your bike too big? Weird stem? Bars too far out there? Mess around with your bars and your body position, there may be something there…cool thing about that stuff is you can always go back Concentrate on heavy feet, light hands. And / or lay off the brakes! I’ve been lucky to have ridden with good riders who can hear my gripe and suggest “more air in your fork” or whatever. Suspension can be counterintuitive, and nothing’s more important.
Make sure you torque the barb/olive to correct torque and dont use the sram bleed kit. the bit that goes into the lever leaks air. I've installed probably 30 pairs of mavens and I've not had one come back with issues. p.s make sure you piston masage with HARD lever pulls and BEFORE!!!!! bleeding, Also Rotate the bike upwards with rear caliper basically vertical. I pull vaccum at the caliper end with lever shut off. I often get asked how to make the brake less powerful.... Nothing wrong with mavens, just the installers.
I guess I was the only one to sit through Hope's setup and bleed procedure videos? They very clearly talk about loosening up the piston seals on new calipers by extending single pistons, one at a time, then resetting them and centering them in the caliper. "Play around with it and you'll find a sweet spot" in a thick Lanky accent and everything. I'm totally with you on wanting brakes to be less fiddly out of the box, but every single manufacturer has their own version of this kind of stuff, plus whatever local knowledge shop mechanics have about how...
If you literally cannot lock up your brakes then your rotors and/or pads are most likely contaminated. My second guess is they need a bleed and they're simply not getting enough power. Galfer Greens have a very aggressive bite and don't require much, if any, bed in. Like, 1-2 stops in my experience. Try cleaning the rotors with isopropyl alcohol and wiping with a lint free cloth. Then lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper. Clean again. Lightly sand the pad surfaces to remove the glaze. Then bed them in again.
the Sram response to this is: once the brake is assembled before it reaches the customer it could take more than a year, therefore it does need that piston massage as it's been sitting for too long. that's what they told me when i asked that question
Exactly right. Popping the piston out during the piston massage basically proves they're not paying attention to the correct setup procedure and invalidates their review. 1/6 working correctly is an insane stat and would be costing SRAM millions if this was playing out across all customers. Clearly it isn't, which unfortunately points the finger back at the guys reviewing them.
I am in the engineering department at Push, and we're all big fans of the Vital community! - Matt I guess I should prefaced that manufacturing comment, before I get the "my buddy owns a casting shop and ..." 😂 So for starters there aren't many magnesium casting suppliers in the US (probably because of safety issues 🔥) but funny enough there is one just down the street from us. The problem with most US manufacturers is size, difficulty, volume, and capacity all have to align before they are interested in any new work. In my experience this is fundamentally...
I'm trying to think of a clever quip about the price and appearance of this stuff... But honestly nothing's coming to me. I just feel dumb and poor and a bit confused, I guess. Welp, back to the clearance store to buy more Adidas running clothes...
Make your own bike park by installing a zip line from the top to the bottom, and send your battery down by itself every time you finish the climb. Shred down and pick up your battery again at the bottom.
They printed 60 twice on the Y-axis (LOL) so I think that is supposed to be 50mm or 34% which is slightly more realistic. Still, that is a spectacularly pointless plot. It shows the wheel uses more travel at much higher peak speeds but doesn't say anything about the load at the wheel or force transmitted to the frame.
Yeah I think the swing link is the main difference, gives it a rising leverage ratio for a nicer feel along with better pad clearance. Brakes without it tend to either have long throw or constantly rub. Shimano is the same, their servo wave feature used to only be on SLX and above, but it looks like that is used down to deore level now! (Also it took my brain way too long to remember the name of SLX - kept going to search for Deore LX ) Honestly, people just need to learn how to bleed and service brakes...