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@grok is this real?

No Matter The Age is a brave title when you consider certain allegations around team rumours. 🤣

looks like great bike. similar in many ways to my fuel exe-I run a 160mm 38 fork ,with a 65mm stroke shock giving 152mm of rear travel and its mullet. the tq motor and battery are perfect for what I need,which is a bit of assistance whilst largely maintaining the handling characteristics of a non e bike.With a range extender i can still get 1400m of climbing if I ride moslty in eco and trail mode which is plenty enough for this old chook!

We've been using 170mm airshafts in our 36's and wish They made the new glidecore in 170mm for the 36 as i really like the new airshaft(when we are running 150/160) I've had no issues running 36's in 170mm and saves a good chunk of weight over a 38. It's been great recently swapping between 150-160-170 on the new Fuel - while trying different setups. Side note: the new fuel Shouldnt be that good for a 145mm bike. It's really good.

The other way to have lower bushing clearance and smooth action is to design and manufacture the product correctly, including the necessary alignment and clearance between bushings/stanchions. Other companies don't seem to have a problem doing this. The difference felt between a fork with correct clearance and one that binds is absolutely noticeable. Of course it all depends on how "bad" the misaligned one is, and also rider weight. Smaller, lighter riders will notice it more. I have felt it myself on numerous occasions, most recently with the PUSH 9.1. If you are not working on suspension and come across...

That was actually a really good article - well done Jessie for taking that step, I wish there was more of this from media sites I would roughly guess the friction from bushings and the air spring are 50/50 - there is potentially a ton of bushing friction under high loads/bending, and the air spring has a big impact on smaller, high frequency movements. I believe there is a lot more bending on the air shaft than you would think - my theory on buttercups has always been that they do more for allowing the air shaft to stay properly...

The more I read these stories of minor issues that could have been easily prevented if someone paid attention to detail, the more I appreciate the no-bullshit approach of Herr Cornelius.

The big question is this. Just how much better would the fork feel if it was perfectly aligned?. Do I like mine? Yes I do, is it like the ones seen online? Yes it is. Just how much better could it actually be if it was perfect? No one will ever know as Fox seemingly don't give a shit!

I'd bet you dollars to donuts that the air pressure changes you see are more due to the air temp inside your fork than the outside atmospheric pressure. Ideal gas law and all that. The column of air serving as your spring is a closed system, so its not impacted by barometric pressures (however, the air in your lowers for sure is, that's why we have lower bleed valves now. Don't believe me? Set your fork pressure when it's in the 50s outside and then check it again when it's in the 80's.

Looks like the additional ramp is at the front of the cleat?

Welp looks like my SH51 cleats are getting the CL-MT001 pedicure tonight courtesy of a angle grinder.

Not sure how that's going to work. I broke a lot of those old knucklebox Diamondbacks (almost every single one) because all of the shock force is channeled through the center of the downtube at a 90 degree angle where the link mounts. Tubes are great in tension and a little bit less great in axial compression (along their length), but really really bad when you put a welded stress riser in the middle of a tube and push perpendicular to it. They rode great though, because they had a nice rampy leverage curve at a time when most trail...

Like a ~2010 Diamondback.