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After going from a Santa Cruz to a Spesh Enduro: sadly yes

I think that is a rather confusing post about how the thickness of the rotors affect the heat and temperature. The heat transfer from the rotor will mostly be affected by the surface area and this will be reasonably similar between standard and thicker rotors. So, if the rotors are at the same temperature a thicker rotor will, indeed, stay at a higher temperature longer, but in reality the temperatures will not be the same. For a given braking event the energy dissipated with either rotor will be the same and the thicker rotor will reach a lower maximum temperature...

We are getting way into the weeds here but also if most mtb guys have enough trouble with cartridge bearings then I think their head would literally explode when faced with the task of changing a needle bearing in a moto style linkage 🤣

re: bearings In my 30 years of riding mountain bikes, I've owned 40+ full suspension bikes, and not once did I ever consider bearing replacement ease/difficulty when considering a frame. I know we're a bunch of nerds on here, but do some of you actually consider that when looking at a bike?

Regarding this 'too many bearings' thing I'm imagining those infomercials where the actor over dramatically struggles with something and loses conttol but its bearings and they go flying all over the place.

I'm talking about maintaining the bearings by fully rotating/spinning them to redistribute the grease and prevent them from seizing. Often times in links that see only a few degrees of rotation the bearings will wear into a spot where they move freely in the used range, but there is a wall of resistance past that. Giving them periodic rotation will increase the life. I personally had my various Yetis seize the bearings within the SI shuttle and doing the ole grease n' spin got them back without needing replacement.

Is replacing 8 more bearings when you already have your linkage blown apart really that big of a deal? I don’t ride a crazy amount, but I do ride a good amount, and I do not replace my bearings more than every other year. Most of the time they are still fine. Unless you’re in the top 0.1% of riders I don’t see any reason why you should be replacing bearings more than once a year. So maybe 8 more bearings to change might take another 2 hours if you’re severely bad at using tools. I spend more than 2...

Yeti is probably sick of warrantying clapped out SI sliders that wear despite regular maintenance. I like the idea of the 6 bar design and getting away from the SI sliders and grease maintenance ritual. But the sheer number of additional bearings (~8!) that are required for the 6 bar, plus the low deflection angles makes me think it will be a notchy bearing generator if not kept up with. The current SI platform already needed the central pivot and main upper rocker bearings to be spun regularly to keep running smooth. Can't imagine keeping 10+ running smooth in regular...

Guess they hired the Ari marketing team for a quick campaign

What is wild to me, when I head to the other site the top comment is quick to scapegoat PE as the problem. While it very well may have been part of the issue, we can all agree it was not all of the issue. Looks like the PR tour is off with a bang...

I really liked the lever feel and power on my DB8's with HS2 rotors, but there are definitely people in the comments and in this thread who disagreed: https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/hydraulic-disc-brakes/sram/db8-5… 100% agree that the stock organic pads on the DB8's need to go immediately in the trash. I think a lot of the reason why people who hate DB8's hated them is because they came stock with organic pads and those people never thought to switch. The organic pad is unrideable for me, and really only valid for beginners, intermediates, and for customers buying them on an city ebike for commuting...

On the topic of 6 bar pedal bikes, anyone got info on this? Spotted at my local trails a while back, seems pretty dialed for a proto….

SC: No new mega Tallboy soon Nomad after that

Weirdly, Dario referenced this on the PB podcast that I just this second listened to- he speculated that there could be pressure from DW himself that pushes bike companies into shorter chainstays. Something like them just working better with his designs. It was just speculation though I think.

They're the same part number and same tune, the grip damper doesn't change much with different valving, it mostly only effects the resolution of the adjustment. The only real difference between the 2 forks is the shape of the lowers

Yeah, I know, it's weird. I will only buy bikes that I can source through my LBS and if I were to go off of that rule, there are only two brands that I would do so with RAAW or Frameworks. Truth be told, I've ridden a lot of crab bikes (haven't we all) and I have mostly no complaints... however I want to see what Santa Cruz's horst link pedal bikes would be like after spending time on the bullit. There is just something about the combination of fit, geo, kinematics and quality (lack of issues) that keeps me...

Having also worked as a shop mechanic, on bikes new and old (sometimes very, very old), my experience was that old parts can sometimes be repaired and can sometimes be replaced with a new (but possibly non-matching or lower-quality) replacement. And sometimes neither of those is possible. Managing customer expectations and communicating clearly is extremely important when it comes to that sort of thing. I have a great appreciation for the companies out there producing affordable replacement parts that can keep old bikes functional and out of the landfill. Even if those bikes are no longer "trail-worthy," many of them...