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@HAEKTPON - last warning - stop cluttering up this forum thread. you're posting too often, with too much nonsense.

The "Gee is a dick that nobody likes" thing is more meme than reality. People have been very clear about that when asked directly.

Hey, remember 9 posts ago in this thread when we were bummed that Bike Magazine was going out of business? Or the part where we were grateful for decades of great MTB content from so many amazing contributors, editors, photographers, and writers? That was cool.

An update: despite the strictest adherents (myself included) using ultrasonic cleaners in the wax prep cleaning process, they are not necessary at all. All you need is a couple of old pots, some cheap solvents, some teflon and paraffin (both sfa on ebay). For prewax degreasing, I used dish soap in a hot water (third) pot. As everyone has mentioned the majority of effort involved is in the cleaning and degreasing of the chain and that's something everyone should be doing anyway. I'm sure a thorough off bike clean and deg would benefit conventional lube users too. The wax method...

PNW. Full clean w/ degreaser in an actual chain cleaner. Numerous water rinses until squeaky clean. Then air compressor dry, followed by Dumonde Tech to rollers. Cycle chain to spread lube to inner parts. Wipe off excess. Interim: wipe off dirt/gunk w/ rag, reapply lube. I don’t do this more than “in a pinch” to limit dirt in chain causing actually harm. Helps when chain starts to make noise if no time to do full clean. After mud rides, hose clean while cycling chain. Rag wipe clean. Compressor dry while wiping. Relube rollers.

Just found a slow cooker by the side of the road and picked up some paraffin, going to give that method a try!

Sweet! Make sure you degrease it well. A couple of rounds of a hard solvent. This will make sure the wax gets in and adheres.

Dave Rome at Cycling Tips has done a bunch of really interesting articles on this topic for road bikes, that basically go from leaning with a rag and re-greasing to using an ultra sonic cleaner and hot dip wax. Link: https://cyclingtips.com/2018/05/chain-cleaning-and-maintenance-how-to/ My personal choice is the below, copy/pasted from the article linked above: "[i]As long as your chain isn’t terribly dirty to begin with, washing it on the bike can yield excellent results. Requiring both degreaser and water, this is best done outdoors. Remove the rear wheel. Take off the rear wheel and install a chain keeper in its place...

Full degrease at new. Wax chain in a rice cooker with paraffin wax then lube with squirt every 4 or so rides until I can be bothered waxing again. The wax gets deep into the chain where the external application of squirt isn't very good at getting.

Intend has released lower price point series - the blackline https://www.intend-blackline.com/about/ Really going to look a bit more at the Ebonite fork. https://www.intend-blackline.com/products/intend-blackline-ebonite/ The "tricstuff" fork we saw in Rotorua last year definitely was Intend. Same for the European Bike Project bike. Dayom!

Digging into my memory banks, 1. Brendan Fairclough crashed in quali and finished 70-something at Pila in 2005, finished 3rd in the race 2. Mark Beaumont crashed and finished 77th in quali's in Vigo in 2007, won the race. Rain in the finals was a factor. 3. Adam Brayton qualified 80th at Champery, finished 6th. Rain in the finals was a factor, obviously. Thanks to Alex Rankin and Rootsandrain.com for the help.

Millyard's video is up. #wizardry https://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/member/Millyard-Racings-Downhill-Bike-1…

Update - I just tried a Magic Mary upfront and as well out back (both orange compound). On the mellower trails with not much of a descent, i thought my rear brake was dragging. I could feel the bike slowing down due to the tyre drag. BUT when gravity can get a better hold on you, these tyres grip and come into their own. Will try using 23-25 psi and see how helps with the rolling resistance improves and what happens to the grip levels.

Tires I've tried f & r: 1. WTB Vigi's 29 x 2.3 2. Onza Ibex 29 x 2.25 3. e13 TRS 29 x 2.35 Most all around ones: Ibex Provides best grip: e13 - this would've been my favorite HOWEVER, I tried the TRS SS and discovered/realized how much less rolling resistance that had. HAHA. Stuck to that combo ever since - TRS front, TRS SS rear.

I just got a set of the 2018 e13 LG1 Race tires. They were on deep clearance on backcountry, and I couldn't resist ordering a pair to keep for when my current tires wear out. I haven't mounted them yet, but they weigh ~1000g in the single ply, reinforced casing, which is average for a knobby 29er tire. The casing feels thicker and stiffer than Maxxis EXO casing. Interesting design as the center knobs are significantly shorter than the side knobs. Not quite like a semi-slick tire, because the center knobs are still large, and paired like a Minion, but...

I used to run the same tires F/R, back in the day when there wasnt much difference in rubber compounds an casings but now I like to run Assegai 2.5 MaxTerra F and DHR 2.4 DC R, seems to be the best combo for me in SoCal. On a side note, just put some new WAO union wheels on, very nice!

muddy wet rootty + rocky --> Conti Der Baron F/R.. I think Conti should make a DH version of Der Baron and Der Kaiser across the line (27/5 & 29er) though.. The Der Projekt version (folding) have outstanding grip but the csg is bouncy.. not as damped as it could be (and warps).. never used them in super fast tracks, better on technical steep slippery tracks. May be cushcore would help them..