One, tire levers matter. Best ones I've come across are from SuperB. They have a heat treated steel core so don't bend like every other steel core. They have a great contour along the working faces so don't hang up on the bead too Two, a toe strap is dumb handy when working with DH casings and cushcores. Press one section of the bead into the rim drop zone, preferbly near but not on the valve area, with the above tire lever and cinch down the strap hard to hold the bead in place, then work around the tire, pushing bead in with one lever, popping the next section over, just a couple inches at a time. Once I figured this out it made me rue dh skins/cushcore inserts far less. Bought the first set of levers on a lark, bought two additional sets in case they stop making em.
$2.99 at Home Depot. Clamp like a vise & force either 1 or both beads into the center channel. Tire cannot come out of the rim. I've used at most 2 before. Just swallows the tire & rim as one. Can disconnect & ratchet back down on the next section of tire harder than a grown man. Literally like having 2 buddies latched onto the tire & rim as you work on the bead.
Drop the tire bead into the center recess of the rim as you walk it around. This allows you to pull the tire over the side wall of the rim with your hands. Yes, even with Conti's. If your rim is asymmetric, install the side with the flat section first.
For all you non compressor having people, I made one of these... ten years ago and it still works. Works better then a compressor, the joe blow charger pump, etc. Its higher flow and as a bonus you look like the unibomber
A really good floor pump is the Topeak Joeblow Mountain II which inflates 722 cm3 of air per stroke. Floor pumps usually inflates about 150-250 cm3...
A really good floor pump is the Topeak Joeblow Mountain II which inflates 722 cm3 of air per stroke. Floor pumps usually inflates about 150-250 cm3 of air per stroke, and other brands mtb specific pumps rarely exceeds 400 cm3 per stroke. I have zero problems getting tires to pop into place with the previous model (683 cm3).
That is awesome! I have an old Lezyne that is the same, very high volume and max 60psi but they havent made them for ages and this one is starting to feel its age... Do you know if the gauge is pretty accurate? The lezyne one is spot on with my digital pressure gague.
Always drop bead into center of rim. This creates slack and makes the job so much easier. #1 rule for installing tires. I just installed Maxxis DH casing with no tire levers.
After the tire is installed you can use soap and water around rim bed and tire bead to reduce friction for an easier tubeless inflation if not working otherwise.
If #2 is not working, install new rim tape.
White (painters) Gorilla Tape does not leave residue on your rim (like the black one does). Word of caution: Gorilla tape is thicker than normal tubeless tape and rims with shallow bed depths will be noticeably harder to install tires, especially if you double wrap
If struggling to install, always revert back to #1. You can install almost any tire without levers if you are patient and massage the bead into the center of the rim. I have noticed deeper rim beds are easier than shallower rim beds, especially with cushcore.
Reading this thread I thought I’d travelled back in time to 2012! Can’t remember the last time I struggled to get a tyre inflated with just a track pump and maybe the valve core removed. But as mentioned elsewhere, never buy anything mucoff, it will be by far the crappest version of what’s available. And the specialized rim strips work really well and are mega cheap and faff free, amazed more brands don’t make them (don’t get any ideas, mucoff)
Pedro’s tire levers are the only lever I will use. Cheap, strong, and just the right shape.
For super stuck beads (tire removal) you can put the wheel down on a soft surface to protect the end cap/hub and step with your heel onto the sidewall of the tire. Works great and saves your hands, especially when sealant has glued the bead on.
If you have trouble getting the tire to fully seat around the bead, put your wheel and tire out in the sun and it will pop in.
Finish the bead install at the valve. That gives you the most slack on the bead when it is dropped into the center.
Installing the tire without sealant at all will make sure you don’t have a big mess if things go sideways.
A lot of good advice mention so far. Only thing I haven't seen that helps a ton is to constantly make sure the bead is dropped...
A lot of good advice mention so far. Only thing I haven't seen that helps a ton is to constantly make sure the bead is dropped into the center of the rim when installing the tire. Makes it so much easier no matter the brand or casing type.
This is everything.
No levers for install, you're just gonna mess up your tape or sidewall.
Being a wheel-smashing connoisseur, I have found myself changing tires far more frequently than desired. My biggest piece of advice is to have the right tools for the job. My second piece of advice would be to follow a standard procedure for every tire install rather than just swearing and getting frustrated. Meat hands are also a plus but not required.
Every tire I mount (in the shop), I use the following items:
Park Tools Multi-Position Wheel Holder (WH-1) - gives you an extra set of hands and keeps you from working on the ground
Pedros Downhill Tire Lever II - Get the leverage you need; don't fight the tire
Crank Brothers Speedier Tire Lever - Use the install end to pin one end of the bead while you work the other side with your Pedros lever
GLASS CLEARER (MUST BE AMMONIA FREE) - Spray the bead and get it nice and slick
One, tire levers matter. Best ones I've come across are from SuperB. They have a heat treated steel core so don't bend like every other steel core. They have a great contour along the working faces so don't hang up on the bead too Two, a toe strap is dumb handy when working with DH casings and cushcores. Press one section of the bead into the rim drop zone, preferbly near but not on the valve area, with the above tire lever and cinch down the strap hard to hold the bead in place, then work around the tire, pushing bead in with one lever, popping the next section over, just a couple inches at a time. Once I figured this out it made me rue dh skins/cushcore inserts far less. Bought the first set of levers on a lark, bought two additional sets in case they stop making em.
Hyper cleaning the rim & old tire beads will make things go much easier.
$2.99 at Home Depot.
Clamp like a vise & force either 1 or both beads into the center channel.
Tire cannot come out of the rim. I've used at most 2 before. Just swallows the tire & rim as one.
Can disconnect & ratchet back down on the next section of tire harder than a grown man.
Literally like having 2 buddies latched onto the tire & rim as you work on the bead.
Drop the tire bead into the center recess of the rim as you walk it around. This allows you to pull the tire over the side wall of the rim with your hands. Yes, even with Conti's. If your rim is asymmetric, install the side with the flat section first.
For all you non compressor having people, I made one of these... ten years ago and it still works. Works better then a compressor, the joe blow charger pump, etc. Its higher flow and as a bonus you look like the unibomber
https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/The-Hub,2/Joe-Barnes-DIY-Coke-Bottle-Tubeless-Compressor-Hack,8450
I havnt had the balls to try and take this thing across the border for whistler trips.
That is awesome! I have an old Lezyne that is the same, very high volume and max 60psi but they havent made them for ages and this one is starting to feel its age... Do you know if the gauge is pretty accurate? The lezyne one is spot on with my digital pressure gague.
Reading this thread I thought I’d travelled back in time to 2012! Can’t remember the last time I struggled to get a tyre inflated with just a track pump and maybe the valve core removed. But as mentioned elsewhere, never buy anything mucoff, it will be by far the crappest version of what’s available. And the specialized rim strips work really well and are mega cheap and faff free, amazed more brands don’t make them (don’t get any ideas, mucoff)
This is everything.
No levers for install, you're just gonna mess up your tape or sidewall.
Being a wheel-smashing connoisseur, I have found myself changing tires far more frequently than desired. My biggest piece of advice is to have the right tools for the job. My second piece of advice would be to follow a standard procedure for every tire install rather than just swearing and getting frustrated. Meat hands are also a plus but not required.
Every tire I mount (in the shop), I use the following items:
Park Tools Multi-Position Wheel Holder (WH-1) - gives you an extra set of hands and keeps you from working on the ground
Pedros Downhill Tire Lever II - Get the leverage you need; don't fight the tire
Crank Brothers Speedier Tire Lever - Use the install end to pin one end of the bead while you work the other side with your Pedros lever
GLASS CLEARER (MUST BE AMMONIA FREE) - Spray the bead and get it nice and slick
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