Has anyone heard anything further yet on the new Saints? The protos seem to be cropping up on more bikes as opposed to just Jackson's bike...
Has anyone heard anything further yet on the new Saints? The protos seem to be cropping up on more bikes as opposed to just Jackson's bike halfway through the season.
Am I insane for thinking my hope tech evo GR4s (with stock lever) are like 5-10% less powerful than my T4V4s? I’m using the exact same pads...
Am I insane for thinking my hope tech evo GR4s (with stock lever) are like 5-10% less powerful than my T4V4s?
I’m using the exact same pads and rotors between the two generations. Also the bleed is absolutely bomber - no wandering, pumping, or fading.
I’m noticing I’m having to pull just a little harder at the lever to get the same amount of power with the GR4, and it seems to come on slower. Just a little, but still noticeable. Not sure I like it better.
225lbs/102kg on 220mm 2.3mm rotors front and rear with MTX golds.
Am I crazy?
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everything
And I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is definitely a bit harder to pull, but the pull is much shorter ( I was also running the 9mm bearings on the cam )
In terms of lever pull I liked the tech 4 better, just lighter feel
I like the shorter stroke on the evo
Power wise I feel these are more aggressive than the v4
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everythingAnd I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is...
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everything
And I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is definitely a bit harder to pull, but the pull is much shorter ( I was also running the 9mm bearings on the cam )
In terms of lever pull I liked the tech 4 better, just lighter feel
I like the shorter stroke on the evo
Power wise I feel these are more aggressive than the v4
Hmmm interesting. I suppose I agree with all of that except the power part. Definitely feel the reduced free stroke and heavier pull. But I do feel the power was slightly reduced. Still a very very powerful brake, just feel like I can’t lock the front up on command like I could with the V4 (not that I’d want to, but it is a gauge of accessible power). Would want to do more back-to-back to confirm. I am using stainless hoses on T4V4 and the stock hoses on the GR4 so not totally apples to apples. Perhaps that has something to do with it.
Maybe you got unlucky with the test bike brakes you tried? When correctly set up, mavens feel dramatically more powerful than 4 pot XT's or Codes...
Maybe you got unlucky with the test bike brakes you tried? When correctly set up, mavens feel dramatically more powerful than 4 pot XT's or Codes. IMO mavens make saints look like a cross country brake. I went down in n out slab (long steep slab) on 4 pot xt with metallic and I yarding on my front brake like a mother fucker. I wouldn't have any concerns doing that with mavens even on organic pads tbh.
I've only briefly tried Intend and Radic and was impressed by the braking power, but I don't have enough experience on either to offer an actual comparison to mavens.
both (forbidden edruid, velduro rogue) were built up the week before the test event. the power was there, don’t get me wrong, but the force needed to pull them was so much more than the intends, especially at the beginning of the stroke. hence the comparison with XTs to codes.
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everythingAnd I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is...
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everything
And I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is definitely a bit harder to pull, but the pull is much shorter ( I was also running the 9mm bearings on the cam )
In terms of lever pull I liked the tech 4 better, just lighter feel
I like the shorter stroke on the evo
Power wise I feel these are more aggressive than the v4
Hmmm interesting. I suppose I agree with all of that except the power part. Definitely feel the reduced free stroke and heavier pull. But I do...
Hmmm interesting. I suppose I agree with all of that except the power part. Definitely feel the reduced free stroke and heavier pull. But I do feel the power was slightly reduced. Still a very very powerful brake, just feel like I can’t lock the front up on command like I could with the V4 (not that I’d want to, but it is a gauge of accessible power). Would want to do more back-to-back to confirm. I am using stainless hoses on T4V4 and the stock hoses on the GR4 so not totally apples to apples. Perhaps that has something to do with it.
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had before, basically a caliper and master swap, also, i noticed they were quite stiff at the beginning but the lever pull became a tad softer, not T4V4 soft but softer
Am I insane for thinking my hope tech evo GR4s (with stock lever) are like 5-10% less powerful than my T4V4s? I’m using the exact same pads...
Am I insane for thinking my hope tech evo GR4s (with stock lever) are like 5-10% less powerful than my T4V4s?
I’m using the exact same pads and rotors between the two generations. Also the bleed is absolutely bomber - no wandering, pumping, or fading.
I’m noticing I’m having to pull just a little harder at the lever to get the same amount of power with the GR4, and it seems to come on slower. Just a little, but still noticeable. Not sure I like it better.
225lbs/102kg on 220mm 2.3mm rotors front and rear with MTX golds.
Am I crazy?
GR4s have been some of the biggest dissapointments recently.
Much harder lever pull, deadstroke longer than V4 with bearing mod, pad clearance way worse.
The HEL hoses are no thicker than regular non-braided hoses. They’re installed on my alloy Capra right now (shown in the review I linked above).
In your review you mention they are weaker in power. How do you compare it to other brakes and what do you mean by that specifically? require you to squeeze more or slow you down less?
In your review you mention they are weaker in power. How do you compare it to other brakes and what do you mean by that specifically...
In your review you mention they are weaker in power. How do you compare it to other brakes and what do you mean by that specifically? require you to squeeze more or slow you down less?
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the shortest free stroke I have tested, and also the overall stiffest feel to the system (meaning that there is hardly any movement of the lever when you squeeze it past the bite point, the hoses are super stiff and will not allow for any kind of lever sponginess). They have good initial bite and are easy to modulate. When you really need get braking heavily, I would put their power above the Code RSC, but below Hope, Maven, and Dominions. They have more than enough power to slow you down in any circumstance, they just require a bit more finger power to do so compared to the most powerful options out there.
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had...
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had before, basically a caliper and master swap, also, i noticed they were quite stiff at the beginning but the lever pull became a tad softer, not T4V4 soft but softer
Weird. I wonder if the perceived difference in power could be entirely due to the hose material then :O
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the...
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the shortest free stroke I have tested, and also the overall stiffest feel to the system (meaning that there is hardly any movement of the lever when you squeeze it past the bite point, the hoses are super stiff and will not allow for any kind of lever sponginess). They have good initial bite and are easy to modulate. When you really need get braking heavily, I would put their power above the Code RSC, but below Hope, Maven, and Dominions. They have more than enough power to slow you down in any circumstance, they just require a bit more finger power to do so compared to the most powerful options out there.
Yeah I'm looking for shortish firm throw but also as little power required. I am still missing the 2nd gen old Magura Gustav from 20 years ago feel. M810 saints (when they worked) too. I hate how Code R's feel, never tried RSC.
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the...
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the shortest free stroke I have tested, and also the overall stiffest feel to the system (meaning that there is hardly any movement of the lever when you squeeze it past the bite point, the hoses are super stiff and will not allow for any kind of lever sponginess). They have good initial bite and are easy to modulate. When you really need get braking heavily, I would put their power above the Code RSC, but below Hope, Maven, and Dominions. They have more than enough power to slow you down in any circumstance, they just require a bit more finger power to do so compared to the most powerful options out there.
Yeah I'm looking for shortish firm throw but also as little power required. I am still missing the 2nd gen old Magura Gustav from 20 years...
Yeah I'm looking for shortish firm throw but also as little power required. I am still missing the 2nd gen old Magura Gustav from 20 years ago feel. M810 saints (when they worked) too. I hate how Code R's feel, never tried RSC.
Just curious, how do you know when to change out brake rotors? I have a set on an ebike that i've had 3 good seasons on TRP Evos and looking to keep the brake performance optimal but have no idea if changing rotors will help. I don't think I've contaminated them but I don't feel like I'm getting the same performance.
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had...
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had before, basically a caliper and master swap, also, i noticed they were quite stiff at the beginning but the lever pull became a tad softer, not T4V4 soft but softer
Pretty neato that they use a wear indicator, can also use a caliper to see how thick the rotor is.
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track and caliper arms will rest on that giving an inaccurate reading.
You can also use a dental tool called a Boley Gauge which are often cheaper than micrometers
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I keep seeing is that a very stiff braided hose will have less flex, and this will be more pronounced especially on the rear brake (where the hose is longer). Is there a braided hose that is normal diameter that is compatible with SRAM banjos & hose barbs? I'd be curious to try running a braided hose on my rear brake only to try and balance the bite feel better.
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I...
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I keep seeing is that a very stiff braided hose will have less flex, and this will be more pronounced especially on the rear brake (where the hose is longer). Is there a braided hose that is normal diameter that is compatible with SRAM banjos & hose barbs? I'd be curious to try running a braided hose on my rear brake only to try and balance the bite feel better.
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than braided hose. That being said, I have seen a few bikes roll through the shop using this (SRAM Compatible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Braid Brake Hose Kit) style of hose and they all felt solid. It should be the same ID/OD as standard SRAM hoses and comes in a couple fancy dancy colours!!!
Edit: This depends frame to frame but I have noticed that the braided hoses love to chew into frames both externally and internally so be prepared to brake out the foam sheathing and ridewrap to keep everything safe
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than...
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than braided hose. That being said, I have seen a few bikes roll through the shop using this (SRAM Compatible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Braid Brake Hose Kit) style of hose and they all felt solid. It should be the same ID/OD as standard SRAM hoses and comes in a couple fancy dancy colours!!!
Edit: This depends frame to frame but I have noticed that the braided hoses love to chew into frames both externally and internally so be prepared to brake out the foam sheathing and ridewrap to keep everything safe
you should read the fine print:
Not compatible with the following SRAM 11 speed road levers - Red 22, Force 22, Rival 22, Force 1, Force CX1, Apex 1, HRD, S700, Rival 1 and Maven.
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than...
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than braided hose. That being said, I have seen a few bikes roll through the shop using this (SRAM Compatible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Braid Brake Hose Kit) style of hose and they all felt solid. It should be the same ID/OD as standard SRAM hoses and comes in a couple fancy dancy colours!!!
Edit: This depends frame to frame but I have noticed that the braided hoses love to chew into frames both externally and internally so be prepared to brake out the foam sheathing and ridewrap to keep everything safe
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and pistons moving freely helps with a sharper bite point, but on every freshly bled brake I've run, I always run the contact adjuster more out (sharper) on the rear. Could be my brain, could be right hand vs. left hand strength, or it could be greater system flex. Fiddling with the contact adjuster works to address the difference in feel, but I'd still like to try a braided hose sometime to figure out whether it's me or the brake hose that causes that feeling.
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and...
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and pistons moving freely helps with a sharper bite point, but on every freshly bled brake I've run, I always run the contact adjuster more out (sharper) on the rear. Could be my brain, could be right hand vs. left hand strength, or it could be greater system flex. Fiddling with the contact adjuster works to address the difference in feel, but I'd still like to try a braided hose sometime to figure out whether it's me or the brake hose that causes that feeling.
Hose flex is real. Multiple companies have gone the stiffer rear hose route at points in time.
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and...
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and pistons moving freely helps with a sharper bite point, but on every freshly bled brake I've run, I always run the contact adjuster more out (sharper) on the rear. Could be my brain, could be right hand vs. left hand strength, or it could be greater system flex. Fiddling with the contact adjuster works to address the difference in feel, but I'd still like to try a braided hose sometime to figure out whether it's me or the brake hose that causes that feeling.
Fair enough, it wouldn't shock me if they release a Maven specific line sooner than later (hopefully). I've had similar debates with myself regarding hand strength/hose material as well, but I've never been able to notice it outside of the shop/parking lot. I wonder if just an extra reinforced kevlar hose is something worth trying out then?
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and...
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and pistons moving freely helps with a sharper bite point, but on every freshly bled brake I've run, I always run the contact adjuster more out (sharper) on the rear. Could be my brain, could be right hand vs. left hand strength, or it could be greater system flex. Fiddling with the contact adjuster works to address the difference in feel, but I'd still like to try a braided hose sometime to figure out whether it's me or the brake hose that causes that feeling.
I notice it too; Hope V3s and Dominions; standard (non-braided) lines.
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track...
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track and caliper arms will rest on that giving an inaccurate reading.
You can also use a dental tool called a Boley Gauge which are often cheaper than micrometers
You can use a caliper. The trick is to make sure that the opening at the inside of the jaws clears any high spots on outer edge of the disc. I guess some calipers might not have this opening, but I have a few different calipers and they all have this opening.
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track...
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track and caliper arms will rest on that giving an inaccurate reading.
You can also use a dental tool called a Boley Gauge which are often cheaper than micrometers
You can use a caliper.The trick is to make sure that the opening at the inside of the jaws clears any high spots on outer edge...
You can use a caliper. The trick is to make sure that the opening at the inside of the jaws clears any high spots on outer edge of the disc. I guess some calipers might not have this opening, but I have a few different calipers and they all have this opening.
Has anyone here moved to the new Shimano brakes from Shigura? If so can you share your experience?
I've been rocking Shiguras for the past few years to get the great Shimano ergonomics without worry of the caliper leaking (which might contribute to WBP). The extra power wasn't unwelcome, but that wasn't really my a goal. I'd trade that for better pad retraction.
The new Shimano brakes are supposed to address the caliper issues, so maybe I can now live on easy-mode by using "Pure Shimano Guts".
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I...
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I keep seeing is that a very stiff braided hose will have less flex, and this will be more pronounced especially on the rear brake (where the hose is longer). Is there a braided hose that is normal diameter that is compatible with SRAM banjos & hose barbs? I'd be curious to try running a braided hose on my rear brake only to try and balance the bite feel better.
Goodridge 5mm braided hose might work. It's the same as what Hope uses in their stainless braided line kit.
The OD is 5mm, so the olive should not be an issue.
The ID is 2.4mm. I measured the SRAM stealthamajig barb at 2.38mm, so it's not ideal, but it might work?
If you have maven bronze or base, it's an olive at both ends so you don't have to worry about banjo compatibility.
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I...
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I keep seeing is that a very stiff braided hose will have less flex, and this will be more pronounced especially on the rear brake (where the hose is longer). Is there a braided hose that is normal diameter that is compatible with SRAM banjos & hose barbs? I'd be curious to try running a braided hose on my rear brake only to try and balance the bite feel better.
Guessing it's an adapter to make it work w/ the lower axle for the mullet kit (silver dropouts). There's another pic here https://www.vitalmtb.com/forums/hub/2026-mtb-tech-rumors-and-innovation…;
I literally swapped v4 to gr4 installing the older used pads on the same everything
And I found a tad less modulation, lots less noise, lever is definitely a bit harder to pull, but the pull is much shorter ( I was also running the 9mm bearings on the cam )
In terms of lever pull I liked the tech 4 better, just lighter feel
I like the shorter stroke on the evo
Power wise I feel these are more aggressive than the v4
Hmmm interesting. I suppose I agree with all of that except the power part. Definitely feel the reduced free stroke and heavier pull. But I do feel the power was slightly reduced. Still a very very powerful brake, just feel like I can’t lock the front up on command like I could with the V4 (not that I’d want to, but it is a gauge of accessible power). Would want to do more back-to-back to confirm. I am using stainless hoses on T4V4 and the stock hoses on the GR4 so not totally apples to apples. Perhaps that has something to do with it.
both (forbidden edruid, velduro rogue) were built up the week before the test event. the power was there, don’t get me wrong, but the force needed to pull them was so much more than the intends, especially at the beginning of the stroke. hence the comparison with XTs to codes.
opposite to me then, i can lock everything easier on the gr4, and when i installed them i kept the same braided lines as i had before, basically a caliper and master swap, also, i noticed they were quite stiff at the beginning but the lever pull became a tad softer, not T4V4 soft but softer
GR4s have been some of the biggest dissapointments recently.
Much harder lever pull, deadstroke longer than V4 with bearing mod, pad clearance way worse.
V4 much preferred and more solid.
In your review you mention they are weaker in power. How do you compare it to other brakes and what do you mean by that specifically? require you to squeeze more or slow you down less?
I mean that they require more finger power to deliver the same stopping power. To compare it to other brakes, the Advocate has by far the shortest free stroke I have tested, and also the overall stiffest feel to the system (meaning that there is hardly any movement of the lever when you squeeze it past the bite point, the hoses are super stiff and will not allow for any kind of lever sponginess). They have good initial bite and are easy to modulate. When you really need get braking heavily, I would put their power above the Code RSC, but below Hope, Maven, and Dominions. They have more than enough power to slow you down in any circumstance, they just require a bit more finger power to do so compared to the most powerful options out there.
Weird. I wonder if the perceived difference in power could be entirely due to the hose material then :O
Yeah I'm looking for shortish firm throw but also as little power required. I am still missing the 2nd gen old Magura Gustav from 20 years ago feel. M810 saints (when they worked) too. I hate how Code R's feel, never tried RSC.
How close to the bar do you run your brakes?
Just curious, how do you know when to change out brake rotors? I have a set on an ebike that i've had 3 good seasons on TRP Evos and looking to keep the brake performance optimal but have no idea if changing rotors will help. I don't think I've contaminated them but I don't feel like I'm getting the same performance.
I found this in https://www.tektro.com/upload/Product/EVO%20PRO%20%28HD-M9040%29%20Installation%20Instruction%20-%20Final.pdf
Pretty neato that they use a wear indicator, can also use a caliper to see how thick the rotor is.
Not sure since I haven’t ridden any v4 with standard hoses
I tried my friend ones in the parking lot with the Kevlar hoses and felt a tad spongier but still good
Compared to mines as the time both just bled and with the 9mm bearings but his set up was on 2mm rotors vs 2.3mm on mine
Apologies for the pedantry but you should use a micrometer, not a caliper as many worn rotors have a bit of lip above the brake track and caliper arms will rest on that giving an inaccurate reading.
You can also use a dental tool called a Boley Gauge which are often cheaper than micrometers
I've seen the topic of hose flex come up a few times, and how it affects the sharpness of the bite point feel. The claim I keep seeing is that a very stiff braided hose will have less flex, and this will be more pronounced especially on the rear brake (where the hose is longer). Is there a braided hose that is normal diameter that is compatible with SRAM banjos & hose barbs? I'd be curious to try running a braided hose on my rear brake only to try and balance the bite feel better.
My personal experience is that making sure pistons are well lubed/sliding freely and the caliper is perfectly centered is more influential on bite point feel than braided hose. That being said, I have seen a few bikes roll through the shop using this (SRAM Compatible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Braid Brake Hose Kit) style of hose and they all felt solid. It should be the same ID/OD as standard SRAM hoses and comes in a couple fancy dancy colours!!!
Edit: This depends frame to frame but I have noticed that the braided hoses love to chew into frames both externally and internally so be prepared to brake out the foam sheathing and ridewrap to keep everything safe
you should read the fine print:
Not compatible with the following SRAM 11 speed road levers - Red 22, Force 22, Rival 22, Force 1, Force CX1, Apex 1, HRD, S700, Rival 1 and Maven.
Didn't see anything in OP's question that mentioned Maven's specifically
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm looking to use it on Mavens. I agree that having the caliper nicely centered over the rotor and pistons moving freely helps with a sharper bite point, but on every freshly bled brake I've run, I always run the contact adjuster more out (sharper) on the rear. Could be my brain, could be right hand vs. left hand strength, or it could be greater system flex. Fiddling with the contact adjuster works to address the difference in feel, but I'd still like to try a braided hose sometime to figure out whether it's me or the brake hose that causes that feeling.
Hose flex is real. Multiple companies have gone the stiffer rear hose route at points in time.
Fair enough, it wouldn't shock me if they release a Maven specific line sooner than later (hopefully). I've had similar debates with myself regarding hand strength/hose material as well, but I've never been able to notice it outside of the shop/parking lot. I wonder if just an extra reinforced kevlar hose is something worth trying out then?
I notice it too; Hope V3s and Dominions; standard (non-braided) lines.
You can use a caliper.
The trick is to make sure that the opening at the inside of the jaws clears any high spots on outer edge of the disc. I guess some calipers might not have this opening, but I have a few different calipers and they all have this opening.
You could also use the pokey depth gauge part.
Well that's neat, thank you!
Has anyone here moved to the new Shimano brakes from Shigura? If so can you share your experience?
I've been rocking Shiguras for the past few years to get the great Shimano ergonomics without worry of the caliper leaking (which might contribute to WBP). The extra power wasn't unwelcome, but that wasn't really my a goal. I'd trade that for better pad retraction.
The new Shimano brakes are supposed to address the caliper issues, so maybe I can now live on easy-mode by using "Pure Shimano Guts".
There’s a guy on Instagram
Omakasecycles
He put some Goodrige lines on the Mavens
I had T4V4’s on my Enduro with standard lines, my friend had T4V4 with braided on his Patrol. Same pads and rotors.
They basically felt the same, the only real upside is durability. Hope even says the same thing themselves.
The steel braid isn’t tensioned, it isn’t going to do anything significant to resist expansion.
Goodridge 5mm braided hose might work. It's the same as what Hope uses in their stainless braided line kit.
The OD is 5mm, so the olive should not be an issue.
The ID is 2.4mm. I measured the SRAM stealthamajig barb at 2.38mm, so it's not ideal, but it might work?
If you have maven bronze or base, it's an olive at both ends so you don't have to worry about banjo compatibility.
Almost all hoses and bards are compatible
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment