Let me fix that for you: all Shimano calipers usually start leaking when stored in any position for an extended period of time.
I have two sets of saints and a set of xt that continually ruin brake pads. Codes and shiguras haven't had an issue with vertical storage for long periods of time
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
I’ve just fitted a set of GR4s. Only had a couple of rides so far but I’m seriously impressed. I was coming from code rsc, but have friends with T4V4 and T4E4. Initial impressions are they are giving me the increase in power I was after, without losing modulation, without a load of free stroke (which I didn’t like on my friends)
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
Do they still have the odd Hope geometry where the lever movement isn’t quite in line with the handlebar?
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power...
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep...
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and...
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
Oh yeah that's one of those things I remember feeling but never really thought about what was causing it! Makes sense but it did feel odd to me
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to...
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to...
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
How is the lever distance to put power down? For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever...
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
It's pretty short. I've been able to run the EVO's reach adjustment closer to the bar, because you can run a shorter dead stroke than on the T4 series, yet I have not felt like I'm going to run out of space for the lever throw once I'm into the proper braking power zone, if that makes sense. I'd say there's a little bit more "flex" after the bite point in the EVO compared to the Maven (difference in hose or caliper stiffness, or something to do with the seals, maybe?), but the power still comes on so strong that you don't have to go very deep into the stroke to generate it.
Mine are also silent except for when they start out wet but the noise goes away once they are up to temperature. I use Hope 2.3 mm discs and sintered pads.
Really like hope brakes, but absolutely hate the high pitch squeal. Does anybody have tricks/pad and rotor combinations that got rid of that squeal?
mine went 80% quiet suddenly, green hope pads and rs05e rotors, they squealed all whistler trip in the dust and now suddenly stopped, occasionally they do but for most times it's gone 🤷♂️
Yep, run them on 2 of my bikes. as usual, the blue pads are meh - using galfer Purple with r5 rotors.(the r5's do make some noise because of the cut outs) But they've been great.
Yep, run them on 2 of my bikes. as usual, the blue pads are meh - using galfer Purple with r5 rotors.(the r5's do make some...
Yep, run them on 2 of my bikes. as usual, the blue pads are meh - using galfer Purple with r5 rotors.(the r5's do make some noise because of the cut outs) But they've been great.
I have about 60 days on the Evo Pros. It’s a solid iterative update to the DH-Rs, I have two of the old sets on other bikes. Big change vs the old ones is that you now have a wider range of lever adjustment (much closer to bar) and a decent amount of bite point adjustment. They still kept the low maintenance aspects.
As far as pads I run the red TRP semis, I drag my rear brakes too much to run stock organic blue pads. Most of the TRP athletes seem to run the blue pad.
Be careful on the install, they reinforced the brake hose with a hard plastic liner that can get kinked.
I feel like this is going to be an expensive article to read.
Edit: I wasn't wrong but I haven't found them in stock anywhere in US apart from some obscure ebay dude.
Fanatik has GR4’s in stock now.
BTI has both in stock now, so any US bike shop should be able to order them for you.
Ugh... I may or may not have just dm'd my LBS to start inquiring about an off-season upgrade. lol
the cheap Shimano non series ones usually start leaking when stored vertically for some reason, other than that Not an Issue
Let me fix that for you: all Shimano calipers usually start leaking when stored in any position for an extended period of time.
Do they still have the odd Hope geometry where the lever movement isn’t quite in line with the handlebar?
Indeed they do.
These sound awesome. Almost wish I got these instead of my Intends
I have two sets of saints and a set of xt that continually ruin brake pads. Codes and shiguras haven't had an issue with vertical storage for long periods of time
I'm curious on this statement: "If your terrain and riding style let you “get away” with running the TR4, then do so". Can you compare power to the Dominion A4s between the TR?
The TR4 is more powerful than the Dominion A4, and more effortless in how the power ramps up. It’s really only if you ride relentlessly steep terrain where you want every power advantage possible that the GR4 is needed, IMO.
🙉 can’t hear the truth
I need allll the power!
I’ve just fitted a set of GR4s. Only had a couple of rides so far but I’m seriously impressed. I was coming from code rsc, but have friends with T4V4 and T4E4. Initial impressions are they are giving me the increase in power I was after, without losing modulation, without a load of free stroke (which I didn’t like on my friends)
What if you have arm/hand strength issues? Would it make sense to go for a GR4 over a TR4 or is there enough power either way?
It makes sense if you look at the geometry of the finger on the bar and lever. The pivot point is around the 2nd joint, and as you curl that around the lever, it starts to pull more and more upwards, towards the top of the grip, and not towards the middle. This means you're in the optimal position when you need the most leverage, pulling along the path that the lever wants to travel thanks to its offset position.
First, let's define "power" so we are both talking about the same thing. All the high-end brakes (and many others) can generate enough braking force to lock up both wheels in any situation - the question is how hard you have to pull on the lever to get there. When people refer to a "powerful" brake, it usually means there is a big difference between finger force and braking force at the wheel. In other words, if you can generate the same stopping power at the wheel with less finger force, the brake is more "powerful". The TR4 is in this sense more powerful than many other brakes out there (above the Dominion A4/T4, SRAM Code, Magura MT7, TRP EVO, and Trickstuff Direttissima, for example). So if you are moving on from one of those, you'll get more braking power for less finger force with the TR4. Obviously, if you really want to make it easier on yourself, with your stated arm/hand strength issues, go for the GR4. You'll just require even less finger force in steep and sustained braking scenarios. The full answer to your question depends on the terrain you ride as well. There are not that many scenarios where a TR4 won't be enough brake. But if it's ultimate power you want/need, it's Maven, GR4, or Trickstuff Maxima. Out of those three, the Maven goes about its business a little differently, with a much harder spring in the lever, so the initial pull is harder, but once you are into the powerful part of the stroke, it ramps up incredibly well. Under REALLY hard braking, it delivers the most stopping power I've felt in a brake. The GR4 is just a smidge behind it, but with a much lighter lever feel while initiating braking or trail braking.
Oh yeah that's one of those things I remember feeling but never really thought about what was causing it! Makes sense but it did feel odd to me
How is the lever distance to put power down?
For instance, the Maximas have a fairly light, but long lever pull to achieve power so the lever has to be run further out. The Mavens, Intends, and Radics have a much shorter throw to put power down, allowing you to run levers closer to the bar. Curious where this land in stroke distance to power.
It's pretty short. I've been able to run the EVO's reach adjustment closer to the bar, because you can run a shorter dead stroke than on the T4 series, yet I have not felt like I'm going to run out of space for the lever throw once I'm into the proper braking power zone, if that makes sense. I'd say there's a little bit more "flex" after the bite point in the EVO compared to the Maven (difference in hose or caliper stiffness, or something to do with the seals, maybe?), but the power still comes on so strong that you don't have to go very deep into the stroke to generate it.
Really like hope brakes, but absolutely hate the high pitch squeal. Does anybody have tricks/pad and rotor combinations that got rid of that squeal?
Anyone have experience with the TRP evo pros?
Early days for sure, but they are completely silent for me. I’m running the green race pads with 2.0mm galfer wave rotors.
Mine are also silent except for when they start out wet but the noise goes away once they are up to temperature. I use Hope 2.3 mm discs and sintered pads.
mine went 80% quiet suddenly, green hope pads and rs05e rotors, they squealed all whistler trip in the dust and now suddenly stopped, occasionally they do but for most times it's gone 🤷♂️
Yep, run them on 2 of my bikes. as usual, the blue pads are meh - using galfer Purple with r5 rotors.(the r5's do make some noise because of the cut outs)
But they've been great.
I have about 60 days on the Evo Pros. It’s a solid iterative update to the DH-Rs, I have two of the old sets on other bikes. Big change vs the old ones is that you now have a wider range of lever adjustment (much closer to bar) and a decent amount of bite point adjustment. They still kept the low maintenance aspects.
As far as pads I run the red TRP semis, I drag my rear brakes too much to run stock organic blue pads. Most of the TRP athletes seem to run the blue pad.
Be careful on the install, they reinforced the brake hose with a hard plastic liner that can get kinked.
I run the T4V4s with Trickstuff pads and Daechle HD rotors and they don't squeal unless wet.
365 Cycles have GR4s and TR4s "in stock", below MSRP. Hmmm.
"in stock" == not really in stock. My order was cancelled after initial confirmation and "shipped" notification, don't order from 365 Cycles just yet.
I had the LBS order me some from BTI yesterday.
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