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just use wise app to transfer the money
Well, that doesn't say at what point your order is registered, as in when is your name on a set of brakes.
If you need to receive payment info on email, and open that. Then type in all that info into an app, and then transfer the money and get a confirmation on that transfer, then how can all of that take 10 seconds...
The important part here is only to spend as little time possible to register an order. What app or payment option you use to transfer the money is irrelevant.
So, at what point in the order process is your order locked in?
you asked to correct you if wrong. i didn't correct you. the moment you hit "buy" the brakes in basket are yours. not when you finally paid. i paid mine like a full month later. you just have all your infos in before the drop and then react fast by adding the product to your basket.
ps: there is another chance to get one of 50 on the 10th of april, 8am berlin time. black ones this time
Ok, good to know.
Personally I'm going for Hope Tech 4 V4 this time. I've been back and forth between brands for a while, but so far I just like the ecosystem of Hope in general and are willing to give them a try.
I'm sure the Intend Trinity are awesome and all of that, but what do you do when you need parts in the middle of a season. If I could afford two complete sets of brakes so I had a backup, it would make things easier. I'm just going to make a clean pass on them for now, and hopefully certain things will make them easier to own after some time.
I like companies that make a complete parts diagram for the customer to look through in his/her own time, and with part numbers and everything, because you can do all the research in advance which save you and them a lot of time. The best thing is being a customer and not needing to contact them at all. Just find what you are in need of, where you can obtain that thing and just drop and order when you wish to do so.
Hope does that well.
On Hope vs Intend, I've had both and they feel very different. Personally, I like the Hope lever mounting a lot better than Intend and they don't have issues with the lever blade being too short for wider grips. The power is similar but the lever feel is really different, the Hopes are closer to Trickstuff in the sense you don't get a ton of feedback at the lever when the pads engage, but the power comes on faster and the adjustments are more meaningful. The Intends have a really light, nice feeling lever - but it feels more like Dominions in the sense that as the pads engage, the pressure at the lever builds more. The Hopes can actually be a little disorienting and the first ride on them I did, I nearly ate a stem sandwich due to putting too much brake down expecting that lever pressure to build more than it did. They are wonderful feeling brakes though and I like them a lot. The only real con to me is the bleed process, which I'm just not a fan of at all.
I prefer the Intends but that's not a knock on the Hopes, I just prefer the overall maintenance/support from them as opposed to Hope, but both are top tier of those I tried.
On ordering, I did effectively what Pedal Bob suggested twice now successfully. You will save critical moments having multiple tabs opened and putting your checkout in another window. The site gets hammered about 1-2min before they go live, so having several windows open at once helps a lot when it comes to avoiding extra clicks/buttons. Having autofill ready to go and signed into PayPal helps, too.
I've tried neither, so I'm just at a crossroads where I just have to try something new and be open to adapting to new output. I'm just done with Shimano brakes, so I'm sure I can learn to like a different lever feel. How and what and all of that will have to wait.
Still snow here, so got to order some parts and assemble the bike for season start.
Hope v4's are the best of all the brakes I've tried, which is pretty much all them now. They'd be a 10/10 if you didn't have to fluff around with the resi lid when bleeding. Worth a shot!
With such concise experience of all the best HD 4 piston brakes, your experience on the HEL Advocate would be much appreciated!
Based on your extensive writeup, it's between Radic and Trinity for me thus far.
Thanks
I haven't had a chance to try those, the Br4ve, or 612s. They all look sweet/unique in their own way but I haven't had a chance to feel or use any of them, kinda ran out of steam combined with neuropathy in my arms cutting down riding time significantly.
That's a huge bummer to read. My wife has a few patients she works with, and my dad's life partner has it bad as well. Best of luck with that.
Does anyone on here have experience with both the Tech 4 E4 and the Tech 4 V4?
I’m wondering if the E4s have a less of the kinda vague lever feel that the V4s have. My main gripe with my V4s is how the bite point feels vague/mushy.
i keep reading this and i keep finding my brakes the opposite, V4 braided paired with hope adapters and 2.3mm rotors, so i'm wondering, given that every other Hope brakes i try always have the normal hoses and feels soft/spongy, and mine and some customers that i installed, all with braided hoses, have a nice and defined/firm bite point, what hoses do you have?
While Hope's claim is that there's no difference, i really don't believe it, stiff hoses do make a difference, especially in feel.
I have the standard lines, but I’ve felt the braided lines on a friend’s bike and they feel basically the same to me.
I don't have the Hopes but I have some braided vs standard experience on my Maxima. I had to run a standard rear line on my old bike because the 6mm braided hose wouldn't clear the internal routing. I still kept the braided hose for my front brake. There was a minor bite point feeling difference between the two. The Goodridge hose bite point was more sharp and defined while the rear standard hose was a tiny little bit mushy in comparison. My new bike has external routing so I can finally run the braided hoses and both front and rear brakes now have an identical feel.
From what I had in the shop, not the same at all
Not sure on the trail as I’ve only ridden on braided hoses with Hopes but even riding with a guy that had the exact same set up other than hoses he said himself that mine felt way better and more defined
I’d try to bleed the caliper by pushing pistons out and opening the bleed nipple while pushing them back, perhaps there can be some air behind the pistons making them feel more vague, I’d try it, but I’m confident that the stiffer hoses do make a real difference especially on brakes like these pushing strong pressures
Personally I will be going for the braided lines just simply because the price jump is marginal. That said, I have seen they mention that the new version of their braided lines now have the same outer diameter as the standard black hose, so I'm curious if there could be differences between old vs new braided lines as well, to add yet another variable(?) I'm not aware of when the new version hit the market, so I'm only mentioning it since it may be of importance.
On top of that maybe it would be good to bunk/debunk the effect of storing a bike vertical or not in terms of wandering/soft bitepoint, as it seems more and more people store their bikes vertically.
Does anyone maybe know the size of the oring on the Code lever bleed screw? They get torn up all the time...
it's a while they're 5mm, mine are for example and the one i got in November for a customer were 5mm as well
Hope v4
Anyone try and fit a slightly longer bite point screw to firm things up? Brakes and perfectly bled and even slightly overfilled and still not as tight as radic/mavens
It’s just a different brake, it won’t get like the other 2 mentioned and it doesn’t matter, on the trail when the bite point is all in they become super touchy and honestly hard to modulate
I lengthened the bite point screw on the v4s. Tight as can be now
How'd you do that mate? Got a pic? Which rotors do you use with them?
I actually didn't put a longer screw....it's a damn custom size of course.....but there should absolutely be aftermarket options. What I did is epoxy 2 layers of precisely cut butyl road tire tubes to where the bite point contacts the reservoir. It effectively added 2-3mm? of screw length/bite. I am only running 2.3mm rotors so maybe this is what it's like running the 3.3 vented rotors?
The vented rotors are hilarious overpriced so not doing that.
Either way, if any manufacturers are reading this, please machine a longer screw for Hope V4 bite point. HUGE difference.
3.3mm rotor = Less brake fluid
2.3mm rotor = More brake fluid
Both should function the same in regards to the bitepoint screw if the last service was done right. The V4 calipers should even work with 1.8mm rotors according to Hope, so to me it sounds like you either have too little brake fluid in your system and/or it just need a service.
What you describe with lengthening the bite point screw to change the feel of the brakes isn't really consistent with how hope brakes, or open hydraulic brake systems in general, work.
The bite point screw doesn't change the position of the pads; this is determined by the seals in the caliper and the gap to the disc will be the same for any disc thickness. What the bite point screw does is change the position of the piston in the master cylinder relative to the reservoir bleed port so that more or less lever throw is required before the master cylinder piston passes the port and starts to move the caliper pistons. Once this happens the brake will behave in the same way regardless of the starting position unless there isn't enough fluid in the reservoir and then air will enter the system. This is why Hope recommend adding extra fluid in the V4s when using 1.8 or 2.3 mm discs.
I'm not really sure what is going on with your brakes to make them feel different with the modification you made but I would guess it comes down to the bleed or setup not being perfect. Hope Tech 4s don't have a very firm lever feel compared to others, even with everything setup correctly and the caliper pistons perfectly centered.
That sounds weird to me, because that would mean that the bite point control dial is just a second reach adjust. From what I can understand of what you're saying, the bite point control dial is simply adjusting a deadzone buffer before the master cylinder piston starts pushing actual brake fluid.
My general understanding of hydraulic brakes was that obviously the seals is the first step of determining where the pistons will end up. Adding a bite point control dial would be the second step of giving you some fine tuning, and not only when everything is brand new and fully serviced.
The lever reach should just be to place the lever where it suits you personally.
That's at least how I've looked at it till now, and obviously I understand there can be different ways of doing things from manufacturer to manufacturer, but I just find it a bit odd if what you claim is actually true that you're only adjusting a deadzone of the master cylinder piston.
All a bite point adjust does is move the MC piston position relative to the timing port holes in the MC. The smaller the gap between the primary seal on the MC piston and those ports creates a shorter throw before engagement. Generally, adjusting it won't alter the lever's home position, with Shimano being an exception in that regard. Shimano requires adjusting reach to maintain the desired home position when their bite point adjust is fiddled with. All that is to say yes, bite point adjust=deadband adjust. If one can't get the activation point they're looking for using that, then there is/are other factors at play, from simple (improper setup at install, bad bleed, kinked brake line, excessively worn pads and/or rotors) to the harder to diagnose (manufacturing dimensional issues within the system, assembly issues at build).
Only thing I would be concerned about here (aside from voiding your warranty) is inadvertently pushing the primary seal on the MC piston past the timing port holes, making the system a closed brake. Time will tell. If you start to lose a brake due to starving the system of fluid or start to have the brake locking up/bite point firming up erratically will tell you that is the case.
For all things mechanic wise, assume you're the weak link in the process and do your best to strengthen your knowledge of fit and process. RTFM, RTFM again, RTFM one more time for good measure. And read it, don't skim (done it, bit me in the ass a couple times, and it was embarrassing). If all that fails, reach out to tech support. The folx working phones and computers are generally hella helpful and quite likely more experienced in the set-up of their wares and definitely know of any potential manufacturing issue that's preventing you from getting the ideal you're looking for. Don't be afraid to be wrong in your thinking either. Sometimes it turns out what you were looking for was not the way a system was designed to operate.
Be curious, be reasonable.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment