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You got the link?
I tried searching through every page but got no match for Aaron, so better just ask for it.
Seems like the potential hassle of fully cleaning/purging the different fluids from it may not be ideal.
I finally made up my mind on what to replace my MT7 with, the feel and performance of these Tech 4 V4 is impressive, super light action, PLENTY of power while having a impressive amount of modulation, just wow.
With the braided hoses I got a very stiff brake, front and rear feel identical and the bite point is real sharp, not spongy at all.
That being said I decided to go with the TRP RS05 rotors, paired with the stock Race pads, bedding in and first couple mellow rides were nice and quiet, after that it’s squealing like crazy, every time I brake, no matter the intensity or if hot/cold, any tips?
I already tried ala Bee Kay to rub the pads under water and nothing changed
This is literally what SRAM outlines in the official bleed procedure... I was expecting something different giving different (better) results? Not something that has been outline for Sram brakes for the last... 10+ years?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRt-CP2l474
The Bleeding edge variant is 7 years old (since Bleeding Edge has been available), but the exact same procedure was outlined for the old dual threaded bleedport brakes (Guide & co).
EDIT: more like for the last 20 years: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mg6NbIjmOM
If it seems I'm a bit salty it's just that these are the basics recommended by the supplier for a very long time. Looking at what the official way is is the first thing that should be done before trying to reinvent the wheel.
But it isn't the procedure you get if you go looking now for a bleed procedure from them, you get that bleeding edge video which is different and for anyone who didn't use sram brakes under the "old" method you don't know about it.
Ah, time to eat a hat I guess... Wasn't aware the official procedure was changed to be honest. I've been doing the bleed with the BE fitting the same as the old procedure.
Though to be honest, lately I've switched over to just do vacuum pulls either way, to pull the fluid from one side to the other and just alternate back and forth. I'm guessing having the fluid flow under a vacuum should pull the bubbles out even better than just having a vacuum. Straight vacuum (with a closed system) should work where you have a big volume of fluid with free flowing bubbles, but in tight spaces they could get caught. Fluid flow should help.
Thus my question about doing a bleed with a vacuum machine - you could set it up and let it run for 15 minutes with the fluid reservoir there to fill in any volume taken up by the bubbles. Not sure if it would flow though. Maybe add a pump to the line connecting the calliper to push the fluid towards the lever constantly? (or just have a one-way valve prevent backflow to pull all the bubbles through the lever fitting?)
I ran all the Hope pads over the course of a year on my T4 V4's, never had a squeal. But I was using the Hope rotor as well. The TRP rotor alloy may not be a good fit for the Hope pad compound.
Also, I know you said you have a stiff bite point and no sponginess, but is it possible the pistons are not contacting the pad equally?
Reason I bring this up is that I had to re center the pads probably once a month. The caliper was not walking on its mount, but it was that the Hope V4 caliper did not engage all of the pistons simultaneously. The banks of pistons would push the pads unequally against the rotor face and cause some weird engagement and pad wear. There are actually a few videos on YT that I discovered about this,
I think the big difference between the Canyon video and the latest official SRAM ones is the process for isolating the caliper (by rubber banding lever to bar), then islolating the lever (by closing the caliper bleed syringe & Bleeding Edge fitting). There are a few other minor differences too like setting contact adjust fully in and reach fully out (both to open up the lever volume as much as possible).
I alternate two wheelsets with the T4V4s and TRP R1 rotors are definitely noisier than Trickstuff Daechle HDs.
took me a minute but the pistons and pads are all perfectly centered, same is the rotor
how do the v4 behave with 2mm rotors? reason i went with these other than look is thickness and stiffness, given the v4 caliper is meant to use the 3.3mm rotors, and the floating are just 1.8 ( which i find ridiculous ) i went for something in between, feel is amazing but yeah the noise is the issue, the r1 were noisy on my mt7 but lacked bite badly, these are good rotors so i think it's pad compound or something else
It's funny how some hope users say never had a noise etc But yet from hope and all the pro's who use them have the same sound lol.
He is adjusting both reach and contact point fully out. The other thing I noticed is that once he is finished, he adjusts the reach back to the measured 51mm, only to go and adjust the contact point after that. Not sure if he realized that means lever won't be 51mm from the handlebar anymore...
The work just fine with the 2.05mm rotors, but with the 2.3mm ones, they are more bitey. It's harder to balance the pistons with the thicker rotor, though.
Totally! I asked pages back about reducing Hope noise, and nothing helped. They work amazingly though so just accepting the squeal.
i won't give up ahah
Hope always have that high pitched squeal.
Its not bad like a honking wet Sram brake, but it is almost constant.
I run the Sram 2mm rotors on my setup and all is good so far (race pads fitted)
I've had T4 and there were a bit noisy with the hope green pads. Using trickstuff or Galfer green and it was dead silent, no matter the weather. Sinter green are also very very quiet pads.
I probably mis-remembered which way to actually adjust the contact point, but I am certain that he said the opposite of what he actually did. Other people in the comments for the video noticed that, and I slowed the playback down to confirm. Like he said wind all the way in but you can see him rotate the dial opposite of the arrow.
Any preference between these? I only tried the trickstuff properly and the sinter green were pretty good, similar to the Trickstuff
Never tried the green galfer
Yeah, this was all part of the older style guide to bleed Sram brakes... Weird that they simplified it this much.
Reach and Contact point adjust are separate things on Sram brakes. One does not impact the other.
Since on we are on the topic of brake pads, does anyone have any recommendations for Hayes Dominion A4? My use case is exclusively snow riding in cold temps. I tried their OEM organic pads but they barely lasted a month. Now I am on the OEM metallic pads and they are unbearably loud as soon as the smallest amount of snow touches the rotor. I guess we can compare this to riding in the wet.
I used to run SRAM Code RSC with Trickstuff Power pads and that was a great quiet combo. Unfortunately Trickstuff does not make pads for Dominions. Is the Galfer Pro green a bit similar to TS? My other choice would be the Sinter brand in the same green compound. Thoughts?
I've used both the galfer green pads and TS power pads (admittedly on different brakes to yours, Shimano and Cura 4s). I found them Galfers to be just as good as the TS pads and easier to get hold of. Would be my go to choice now.
I've had good luck with Hope Sintered pads mated to Freeza rotors. Very little, if any noise in the wet after a minute going downhill
https://auto.helperformance.com/hel-advocate-4-piston-mtb-hydraulic-disc-brake-system
This looks interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0IwMPrH_EM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cs2KAngXzs
Sinter Greens. Haven’t run TS’s but out of MTX, Red’s, Golds, both Hayes compounds and Galfer greens, the sinters are the best I’ve used. Run them on A4’s and Kaha’s with the new SE05 TRP rotors on one bike and Galfer Waves on another. Dead silent and more power regardless of how wet it is. Only have a few hundred miles so far but they seem to be wearing well. The stock Kaha pads made the most bizarre warbling noise when you got on the brakes hard. Not quite OG sram turkey call but similar. Drove me nuts.
I read on their page that they only make organic pads. I also see Galfer only offer organic, but for some reason have sinter pads aimed at trial.
My only experience with organic in the past is they bite better initially, but fade very fast. It feels like you are comparing organic pads to (mostly)organic pads, which make me wonder if there are certain brands that offer certain organic mixes that can run with metallic. I see the two of you are conscious about noise, but if we put that to the side and only focus on performance, which will have the stronger bite and a bite that will last?
Well, there are quite similar but :
-Galfer are the noisier of the 3. It's subtle but there do make a bit of noise. Trickstuff are second, the Sinter are the most silent I've tried. But we can say that the 3 are silent, it's just nutpicking here
-The galfer fade faster than Trickstuff. Can't say for the Sinter has I've don't run them for long enough to know
So the galfer are a bit behind, BUT there usually are cheaper. Can't really go wrong with any of these!
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