When you add pressure to a brake system, this will result in the caliper pistons move, and continues moving until it meets a force that matches than pressure? Like, does "pressurize" in this conversation actually mean over fill?
The spring/magnet add a little force, but from my understanding i just can't understand how the over pressure is possible with out the pads hitting the rotor.
Great to hear! That wasn't my question though 🙂 I havn't experienced the wandering bite point in my last 5 sets of Shimano brakes either and...
Great to hear! That wasn't my question though 🙂 I havn't experienced the wandering bite point in my last 5 sets of Shimano brakes either and like them a lot.
Nah, I was just answering to your perception and of the Shimano hate.
I also forgto to metion that it looks like they’re developing a new fluid as some of the recent spy shots showed a different fluid than their standard pink. Maybe their standard isn’t upto the demands of a modern brake and it needs improvement or maybe the Syndicate were just using their own preferred fluid.
Over pressurize the brakes?When you add pressure to a brake system, this will result in the caliper pistons move, and continues moving until it meets a...
Over pressurize the brakes?
When you add pressure to a brake system, this will result in the caliper pistons move, and continues moving until it meets a force that matches than pressure? Like, does "pressurize" in this conversation actually mean over fill?
The spring/magnet add a little force, but from my understanding i just can't understand how the over pressure is possible with out the pads hitting the rotor.
Yep, overfilling=pressurizing. It inflates the diaphragm in the reservoir creating a positive pressure on the system rather than a neutral/slight vacuum with the lever released/at home position. In turn, it shrinks any air pocket(s) and even forces the air to dissolve into the fluid. This is all to say that the likely culprit was a bad bleed in the first place, but having improperly set caliper pistons (i.e. not lubed proper) can cause a similar light feel as the pistons will retract too much. Not a fan of the process as in true worse case scenarios it can result in a brake locking up as the fluid maxes out the res space and in turn cause the pistons to extend. Pressure cooker if you will.
Of note, pressurizing the system won't necessarily cause the pistons to advance as that depends on how hard the syringe is pushed prior to closing the caliper off.
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on the lever side syringe with a bleed block in so the pistons don't advance and pressurize the system. This of course leads to fluid leaking out when I remove the syringe before I get the lever screw back in but that's a full as I can make the system.
Do you fill to the point the pistons begin to extend, then close the system and retract the pistons into the calipers?
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on...
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on the lever side syringe with a bleed block in so the pistons don't advance and pressurize the system. This of course leads to fluid leaking out when I remove the syringe before I get the lever screw back in but that's a full as I can make the system.
Do you fill to the point the pistons begin to extend, then close the system and retract the pistons into the calipers?
with bleeding edge you can, after closing the lever, add some more fluid from the caliper and close the system
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on...
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on the lever side syringe with a bleed block in so the pistons don't advance and pressurize the system. This of course leads to fluid leaking out when I remove the syringe before I get the lever screw back in but that's a full as I can make the system.
Do you fill to the point the pistons begin to extend, then close the system and retract the pistons into the calipers?
Thinner bleed block if you don't have SRAM system.
I finally got myself a pair of Dominions, so I can compare them to my Cominions (Code RSC levers, Dominion A4 calipers).
The two setups have nothing in common except the calipers. Pads, rotors, and wheel sizes are all different. I can't make any useful observations about power. This post is all about feel.
Both levers are the same length from pivot to corner of the hook (70mm), but the Hayes pivot is inline with the bar clamp and SRAM positions the pivot point a bit outboard. So I run my dropper lever and shifter inboard with Hayes, and outboard with SRAM.
Lever height at the hook is about 15mm for Hayes and 14mm for Sram. But the Code lever actually feels taller, as its edges are more squared off. The SRAM hook feels a little more aggressive and, by eyeball, does look to angle a bit more. I like that because I run a bar with 12° backsweep. The Dominion is a more comfortable place to rest a finger, but I still think I like the SRAM lever shape better.
Throw length is very similar between the two. I didn't bother measuring this, as they're close enough I can't feel a difference. It seems the SRAM Swinglink vs. Hayes smaller MC (and whatever geometric differences) balance out.
The Dominion lever swings with significantly less resistance, though I should note I've never done any maintenance to the Codes, and I bet they could benefit from a rebuild. The Dominions have a crisper, more defined bite point. Both are easy to modulate with the Code lever's extra resistance making it feel a bit more intuitive. It's also the one I've been using for the last three years, can't ignore that muscle memory.
If you love the SRAM lever feel but want to give your Codes 20% more hydraulic leverage, adding Dominion A4 calipers will do exactly that. This frankenbrake works very well within the expectation that it still feels like an Avid/SRAM brake. I am impressed how it holds up against the proper, full Hayes setup. That said, you do need Dominion levers to get the famously light Dominion feel.
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever...
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
For the dropper side, Hayes Peacemaker works. Formula may work, you'll need to check fitment on how the bolt holes line up. For the shifter side, there is no adapter that will let you run a Pod on Hayes that I know of yet. Your best bet is to use the SRAM Infinite clamp (the figure 8 shaped one), it's very slim and light.
Speaking of Cominions.I finally got myself a pair of Dominions, so I can compare them to my Cominions (Code RSC levers, Dominion A4 calipers).The two setups...
Speaking of Cominions.
I finally got myself a pair of Dominions, so I can compare them to my Cominions (Code RSC levers, Dominion A4 calipers).
The two setups have nothing in common except the calipers. Pads, rotors, and wheel sizes are all different. I can't make any useful observations about power. This post is all about feel.
Both levers are the same length from pivot to corner of the hook (70mm), but the Hayes pivot is inline with the bar clamp and SRAM positions the pivot point a bit outboard. So I run my dropper lever and shifter inboard with Hayes, and outboard with SRAM.
Lever height at the hook is about 15mm for Hayes and 14mm for Sram. But the Code lever actually feels taller, as its edges are more squared off. The SRAM hook feels a little more aggressive and, by eyeball, does look to angle a bit more. I like that because I run a bar with 12° backsweep. The Dominion is a more comfortable place to rest a finger, but I still think I like the SRAM lever shape better.
Throw length is very similar between the two. I didn't bother measuring this, as they're close enough I can't feel a difference. It seems the SRAM Swinglink vs. Hayes smaller MC (and whatever geometric differences) balance out.
The Dominion lever swings with significantly less resistance, though I should note I've never done any maintenance to the Codes, and I bet they could benefit from a rebuild. The Dominions have a crisper, more defined bite point. Both are easy to modulate with the Code lever's extra resistance making it feel a bit more intuitive. It's also the one I've been using for the last three years, can't ignore that muscle memory.
If you love the SRAM lever feel but want to give your Codes 20% more hydraulic leverage, adding Dominion A4 calipers will do exactly that. This frankenbrake works very well within the expectation that it still feels like an Avid/SRAM brake. I am impressed how it holds up against the proper, full Hayes setup. That said, you do need Dominion levers to get the famously light Dominion feel.
I owned codes before getting dominions. All I'd say is that it took me a while to get used to the light lever action and I found myself locking up unintentionally a lot to begin with. Several months on, however, my fingers are reprogrammed and it's second nature and I'm reaping the rewards with 1. less hand/arm fatigue and 2. More confidence because there's just silly amounts of braking power available on tap with very little effort.
You'll learn to modulate over time if you stick with it.
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever...
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
You could run Hayes Peacemaker adapter to matchmaker and then run Bikeyoke or 612 parts Matchmaker to Transmission Pod adapter
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.
This season I ran the coated Goodridge hose for front and beta hose in rear due to the Specialized Enduro hose routing limitation. I found the bite point to be not as firm when using the kevlar hose. Difference is pretty small and the sheer power of the brakes don't let you notice that as much. Which frame? Apparently some frames like Yetis clear the thicker coated hoses.
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever...
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
I ran into similar issues with my AXS and dropper, ended up with a wolftooth shiftmount for magura and a magura shiftmix and it fit on my dominions perfectly.
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.This season I...
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.
This season I ran the coated Goodridge hose for front and beta hose in rear due to the Specialized Enduro hose routing limitation. I found the bite point to be not as firm when using the kevlar hose. Difference is pretty small and the sheer power of the brakes don't let you notice that as much. Which frame? Apparently some frames like Yetis clear the thicker coated hoses.
I didn't realize there were even more options for the Goodridge hose. live in the PNW, so exposed metal seems like maybe not the best idea... They have to be coating it for a reason?
I have had a couple bikes with relatively tight tube in tube routing, so it may be best to go for the kevlar.
I didn't realize there were even more options for the Goodridge hose. live in the PNW, so exposed metal seems like maybe not the best idea...
I didn't realize there were even more options for the Goodridge hose. live in the PNW, so exposed metal seems like maybe not the best idea... They have to be coating it for a reason?
I have had a couple bikes with relatively tight tube in tube routing, so it may be best to go for the kevlar.
It is a stainless steel mesh so you don't really need to worry about corrosion. The two downsides are
a) It is extra work to cut it because the ends fray. You need to use heat shrink tubing on the cut mark.
b) The exposed metal doubles as a file. It is abrasive and any frame rub won't be pretty. Just requires careful planning.
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever...
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
I've used the Wolftooth magura shift mix with my Hayes brakes to run a sram mechanical shifter and an MMX compatible dropper post lever. The alignment isn't perfect, but it's close enough to get proper torque and to not ruin the bolts.
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.This season I...
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.
This season I ran the coated Goodridge hose for front and beta hose in rear due to the Specialized Enduro hose routing limitation. I found the bite point to be not as firm when using the kevlar hose. Difference is pretty small and the sheer power of the brakes don't let you notice that as much. Which frame? Apparently some frames like Yetis clear the thicker coated hoses.
If the coated vs. uncoated hose is the same except for the coating, the rubberized layer on top of it has no effect on the feel of the brake. The rear being mushier is connected to the longer length of the hose acting as a softer spring vs. to front brake. This is a well known thing with WC riders running brake contact of the rear brake quicker to compensate for this difference.
If the coated vs. uncoated hose is the same except for the coating, the rubberized layer on top of it has no effect on the feel...
If the coated vs. uncoated hose is the same except for the coating, the rubberized layer on top of it has no effect on the feel of the brake. The rear being mushier is connected to the longer length of the hose acting as a softer spring vs. to front brake. This is a well known thing with WC riders running brake contact of the rear brake quicker to compensate for this difference.
I think he was comparing kevlar vs braided ss hoses.
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Hey guys, I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems...
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Given that i turned my rotors blue on those pads and they didn't missed a beat i thought it was impossible to glaze them, and i hope it's not a rotor related issue as those rs05 are the ones i bought for my new brakeset.
as far as i know pads glaze when can't cope with the heat and basically cook, same rotor but with the white magic and it's all good? How's the rotor surface?
Hey guys, I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems...
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Sounds like contaminated pads. I'm extremely careful with my brakes and it occasionally happens with no obvious cause.
Hey guys, I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems...
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Sounds like contaminated pads. What make and model of brakes are they, how long have you had em, and when was the last time you bled/serviced them?
I'm on Intend Trinity brakes, bleed is ok. The pads have 100 miles as I've just replaced the other faultly pads as I was thinking about...
I'm on Intend Trinity brakes, bleed is ok. The pads have 100 miles as I've just replaced the other faultly pads as I was thinking about contamination.
I know it could happens but it has never happened to me in 15 years, and now 2 in 2 months ? this is weird.
If it's never happened to you in 15 years consider yourself extremely lucky. I work in a shop and see them all the time - it's why I'm so meticulous with my own brakes and it still happens occasionally.
The tiniest amount of contamination will significantly reduce braking power. Maybe there is a tiny leak from oil on the pisons? Or some cleaning spray? Try to degrease the caliper and disk with isopropyl alcohol and try new pads. And break them in properly.
I also once got contamination over night after I mobilized the pistons and put a bit too much oil on the side of the pistons. Or my brother once was frying steaks in the campervan and all the pads on the bikes in the rear compartment were contaminated. Usually the brakes squeal similar to when its raining when contaminated although its dry.
I agree I have to double check if there is not a leak at the pistons, but beside that I could not believe I did contaminated my pads two times in a row.
There absolutely no chance that the new disk could glaze the pads ?
The tiniest amount of contamination will significantly reduce braking power. Maybe there is a tiny leak from oil on the pisons? Or some cleaning spray? Try...
The tiniest amount of contamination will significantly reduce braking power. Maybe there is a tiny leak from oil on the pisons? Or some cleaning spray? Try to degrease the caliper and disk with isopropyl alcohol and try new pads. And break them in properly.
I also once got contamination over night after I mobilized the pistons and put a bit too much oil on the side of the pistons. Or my brother once was frying steaks in the campervan and all the pads on the bikes in the rear compartment were contaminated. Usually the brakes squeal similar to when its raining when contaminated although its dry.
Ah yes, the perpetual fear of brake contamination.
Over pressurize the brakes?
When you add pressure to a brake system, this will result in the caliper pistons move, and continues moving until it meets a force that matches than pressure? Like, does "pressurize" in this conversation actually mean over fill?
The spring/magnet add a little force, but from my understanding i just can't understand how the over pressure is possible with out the pads hitting the rotor.
Nah, I was just answering to your perception and of the Shimano hate.
I also forgto to metion that it looks like they’re developing a new fluid as some of the recent spy shots showed a different fluid than their standard pink. Maybe their standard isn’t upto the demands of a modern brake and it needs improvement or maybe the Syndicate were just using their own preferred fluid.
Yep, overfilling=pressurizing. It inflates the diaphragm in the reservoir creating a positive pressure on the system rather than a neutral/slight vacuum with the lever released/at home position. In turn, it shrinks any air pocket(s) and even forces the air to dissolve into the fluid. This is all to say that the likely culprit was a bad bleed in the first place, but having improperly set caliper pistons (i.e. not lubed proper) can cause a similar light feel as the pistons will retract too much. Not a fan of the process as in true worse case scenarios it can result in a brake locking up as the fluid maxes out the res space and in turn cause the pistons to extend. Pressure cooker if you will.
Of note, pressurizing the system won't necessarily cause the pistons to advance as that depends on how hard the syringe is pushed prior to closing the caliper off.
How do you overfill? For example when I bled Codes and now bleed the Cominions the last step I do is push down the plunger on the lever side syringe with a bleed block in so the pistons don't advance and pressurize the system. This of course leads to fluid leaking out when I remove the syringe before I get the lever screw back in but that's a full as I can make the system.
Do you fill to the point the pistons begin to extend, then close the system and retract the pistons into the calipers?
with bleeding edge you can, after closing the lever, add some more fluid from the caliper and close the system
Thinner bleed block if you don't have SRAM system.
Thanks for the answers, I was concerned I had misinterpreted some instructions and been messing up my bleed this whole time.
Speaking of Cominions.
I finally got myself a pair of Dominions, so I can compare them to my Cominions (Code RSC levers, Dominion A4 calipers).
The two setups have nothing in common except the calipers. Pads, rotors, and wheel sizes are all different. I can't make any useful observations about power. This post is all about feel.
Both levers are the same length from pivot to corner of the hook (70mm), but the Hayes pivot is inline with the bar clamp and SRAM positions the pivot point a bit outboard. So I run my dropper lever and shifter inboard with Hayes, and outboard with SRAM.
Lever height at the hook is about 15mm for Hayes and 14mm for Sram. But the Code lever actually feels taller, as its edges are more squared off. The SRAM hook feels a little more aggressive and, by eyeball, does look to angle a bit more. I like that because I run a bar with 12° backsweep. The Dominion is a more comfortable place to rest a finger, but I still think I like the SRAM lever shape better.
Throw length is very similar between the two. I didn't bother measuring this, as they're close enough I can't feel a difference. It seems the SRAM Swinglink vs. Hayes smaller MC (and whatever geometric differences) balance out.
The Dominion lever swings with significantly less resistance, though I should note I've never done any maintenance to the Codes, and I bet they could benefit from a rebuild. The Dominions have a crisper, more defined bite point. Both are easy to modulate with the Code lever's extra resistance making it feel a bit more intuitive. It's also the one I've been using for the last three years, can't ignore that muscle memory.
If you love the SRAM lever feel but want to give your Codes 20% more hydraulic leverage, adding Dominion A4 calipers will do exactly that. This frankenbrake works very well within the expectation that it still feels like an Avid/SRAM brake. I am impressed how it holds up against the proper, full Hayes setup. That said, you do need Dominion levers to get the famously light Dominion feel.
Hoping someone in this can help. I have a set of Hayes A4 and looking for options for integrated mixmaster setups. I have a oneup lever and SRAM t-type pod shifter. Any idea what the best options are out there to remove the clutter on the bars and put it on all the hayes?
So far it seems the Formula Mixmaster left should work with the Oneup lever as an option, but can't figure out if one of those would work with the pod, and can't find what ones may work. I might just go with the standard pod mount.
And slightly off my topic, but I just got a new 5010 and it came with Code Silvers + 180 HS2 rotors. I have a pair of Dominion A4s from black friday with 203+180 on hand, so trying to decide between the two. I'm currently leaning Hayes for the additional power, but let me know if I'm an idiot. Upvote for Hayes, Downvote for Code Silvers (adding 200 front).
For the dropper side, Hayes Peacemaker works. Formula may work, you'll need to check fitment on how the bolt holes line up. For the shifter side, there is no adapter that will let you run a Pod on Hayes that I know of yet. Your best bet is to use the SRAM Infinite clamp (the figure 8 shaped one), it's very slim and light.
I owned codes before getting dominions. All I'd say is that it took me a while to get used to the light lever action and I found myself locking up unintentionally a lot to begin with. Several months on, however, my fingers are reprogrammed and it's second nature and I'm reaping the rewards with 1. less hand/arm fatigue and 2. More confidence because there's just silly amounts of braking power available on tap with very little effort.
You'll learn to modulate over time if you stick with it.
You could run Hayes Peacemaker adapter to matchmaker and then run Bikeyoke or 612 parts Matchmaker to Transmission Pod adapter
https://r2-bike.com/612-PARTS-Matchmaker-Podapter-SRAM-Transmission-Adapter-black
Does anybody have direct experience to using the thinner, kevlar tubing on Maxima brakes?
Overall, I really dig the idea of the Goodridge hose, but frame compatibility is something I don't want to have to fight with.
There wasn't much on the website in terms of performance loss, so I'm just wondering what the difference actually is?
Plastic coated Goodridge hoses or raw ones? The first ones are 6mm while the raw ones are 5mm I.e. same as their kevlar hose.
This season I ran the coated Goodridge hose for front and beta hose in rear due to the Specialized Enduro hose routing limitation. I found the bite point to be not as firm when using the kevlar hose. Difference is pretty small and the sheer power of the brakes don't let you notice that as much. Which frame? Apparently some frames like Yetis clear the thicker coated hoses.
I ran into similar issues with my AXS and dropper, ended up with a wolftooth shiftmount for magura and a magura shiftmix and it fit on my dominions perfectly.
I didn't realize there were even more options for the Goodridge hose. live in the PNW, so exposed metal seems like maybe not the best idea... They have to be coating it for a reason?
I have had a couple bikes with relatively tight tube in tube routing, so it may be best to go for the kevlar.
It is a stainless steel mesh so you don't really need to worry about corrosion. The two downsides are
a) It is extra work to cut it because the ends fray. You need to use heat shrink tubing on the cut mark.
b) The exposed metal doubles as a file. It is abrasive and any frame rub won't be pretty. Just requires careful planning.
But yeah kevlar hose is easier to deal with.
I've used the Wolftooth magura shift mix with my Hayes brakes to run a sram mechanical shifter and an MMX compatible dropper post lever. The alignment isn't perfect, but it's close enough to get proper torque and to not ruin the bolts.
If the coated vs. uncoated hose is the same except for the coating, the rubberized layer on top of it has no effect on the feel of the brake. The rear being mushier is connected to the longer length of the hose acting as a softer spring vs. to front brake. This is a well known thing with WC riders running brake contact of the rear brake quicker to compensate for this difference.
I think he was comparing kevlar vs braided ss hoses.
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Given that i turned my rotors blue on those pads and they didn't missed a beat i thought it was impossible to glaze them, and i hope it's not a rotor related issue as those rs05 are the ones i bought for my new brakeset.
as far as i know pads glaze when can't cope with the heat and basically cook, same rotor but with the white magic and it's all good? How's the rotor surface?
Yeah I forgot to mention that the disk does not appears blue at all, no sign of overheat. It's really weird
Sounds like contaminated pads. I'm extremely careful with my brakes and it occasionally happens with no obvious cause.
Sounds like contaminated pads. What make and model of brakes are they, how long have you had em, and when was the last time you bled/serviced them?
I'm on Intend Trinity brakes, bleed is ok. The pads have 100 miles as I've just replaced the other faultly pads as I was thinking about contamination.
I know it could happens but it has never happened to me in 15 years, and now 2 in 2 months ? this is weird.
If it's never happened to you in 15 years consider yourself extremely lucky. I work in a shop and see them all the time - it's why I'm so meticulous with my own brakes and it still happens occasionally.
The tiniest amount of contamination will significantly reduce braking power. Maybe there is a tiny leak from oil on the pisons? Or some cleaning spray? Try to degrease the caliper and disk with isopropyl alcohol and try new pads. And break them in properly.
I also once got contamination over night after I mobilized the pistons and put a bit too much oil on the side of the pistons. Or my brother once was frying steaks in the campervan and all the pads on the bikes in the rear compartment were contaminated. Usually the brakes squeal similar to when its raining when contaminated although its dry.
I agree I have to double check if there is not a leak at the pistons, but beside that I could not believe I did contaminated my pads two times in a row.
There absolutely no chance that the new disk could glaze the pads ?
Thanks !
Ah yes, the perpetual fear of brake contamination.
Does anyone use any brake cleaner to try to fix some of this issue? I have used https://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-degreasers/bicycle-disc-brake-cleaner in the past with some pretty meh results, and I've never really got rotor/pad sanding to work with any sort of consistency.
It would be nice to be able to save a rotor/pad combo every once and a while.
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