Hello Vital MTB Visitor,
We’re conducting a survey and would appreciate your input. Your answers will help Vital and the MTB industry better understand what riders like you want. Survey results will be used to recognize top brands. Make your voice heard!
Five lucky people will be selected at random to win a Vital MTB t-shirt.
Thanks in advance,
The Vital MTB Crew
Are you trying to avoid doing a full bleed? Because this is not how hope reccomend bleeding your brakes.
Danny Mac putting the new Gustav Pro to the test (sponsored athlete content, obviously, but still good to see the brakes in action):
Anyone here going to eurobike?
If you are, mor info on new galfer brake please. There is a flash of it in their insta reel
i've posted pictures either here or on the tech rumors where you asked too, a while ago
I sincerely appreciate the pictures, was hoping someone could maybe talk to the reps and get some tech specs
New Intend Trinity Trail caliper. Lighter, magnetic pistons, bottom load pads and no guide pin. This should solve the spoke clearance issue. Source: Pinkbike
coming back to this, how's the pad/rotor clearance? i know it's garbage on MT7 as i own them, especially on Maxima / V4
I never had too many issues with pad/rotor clearance on most brakes I tried.
The Intends had an issue very briefly where they'd drag the pad ever so slightly, but it went away after a few rides. The MT7s were definitely trickier to align than others but I was able to largely get them drag free eventually. None of the others were really notable in that regard, alignment went fine and pad clearance was good enough.
good to know, as i'm trying to decide where to get also with availability and color options i chucked a new rotor on my mt7 and for the first time it's not 100% straight and i'm becoming crazy trying to see what's going on with the pads being basically touching the rotor at all times.
Yeah I had that rattling issue in the front. Expanding the pad retainer spring solved it and never had issues since.
Does anyone know where I can buy 223mm trickstuff hd rotor? I'm usually good and finding stuff but I've given up. Do they even make it anymore?
i can tell you it's impossible. i think they give them all to the sponsored dh team, i literally spent hours trying to find who has one, used german forums, all the possible dealers in europe that sell online, never had luck.
Shimano XT 4 pots, Galfer Ebike pads, 220 & 203 Shimano rt64 rotors on Full power ebike.. About 100kg on the pedals
The ebike pads are a great ALT to the resin... similar power but manage the heat way better.
I've been running mavens but One got warrantied, waiting for replacement - they are so damn good but put my XT's back on and they are disappointing. (was using 200 f/r on mavens)
any tips for How to get more power from the XT's?
mt7 or cascade calipers, other than rotors and good pads there's not much you can do, different fluid can help, and stiffer hoses, not sure everything combined how it can change
was hoping for cheaper options, like different pads/rotors - I have a few weeks to deal with XT's while I wait for my Mavens but prime riding conditions here at the moment...
was considering trying galfer wave 223 rotor with a 200/203 wave rear
Maybe have to start pulling harder haha yay for sore hands.
Full sintered pads have a higher coefficient of friction, generally, and that's the case with the Shimano N04C units. Obviously they come with a couple drawbacks (noise in cool/wet and possible rattling, more heat transfer, longer bed in time) but they require less lever force to get to work. You can also use a thicker rotor to help with heat management and overall pucker power. I've test fit TRP2.3s and there was enough clearance (checked with the Hayes Feel'r Gauge) as long as the brake isn't overfilled, which still seems to be the way some folx try to address the wandering bite point issue. I wasn't able to find any relevant info for Galfer's pad compound, but I suspect it's a semi metallic ceramic job.
Based on better parking lot bite of organics I'd bet organics have a better friction coefficient. When cold.
Sintered pads come to life when warmed up and on long descents as their performance is more constant with rising temperature of the system compared to organics.
Just spent a week riding Kamloops (Sun Peaks), Revelstoke, Squamish and Fromme in North Vancouver. The Lewis LH4's are holding up great and felt like I had a ton of control and confidence going into some big slabs and some steep dh loamers. Tons of modulation and all kinds of power to work with.
So far I've just had one quick lever bleed, but they've been great. Feel fantastic and look great (polished on a raw bike will never look bad). I'd be interested to see what they'd be like with a 220 rotor up front (as a big, 120kg lad), just to maximize power. Have Galfer pro pads waiting to swap out when the stock ones wear out.
I get people hate on them for any number of reasons, but I'm loving them.
Orgs and semis bed in quicker because they require less heat cycles (i.e. braking events) to do so as the material is softer and deposits into the brake track quicker. I've no issue with either in daily driver/city use, but from a performance standpoint sintered provides better consistent friction across all possible conditions and temps when bedded in properly. Key part is the bed in process. Folx who want to chuck in a set of pads and go ride shouldn't ride sintered pads. They're definitely more finnicky to proper bed in processes.
MT7 callipers more than any other I’ve dealt with, really need frame and adapter mounts facing… the alignment process is a lot simpler after this. I’ve almost always just done it with a good hand file but still had great results. Most of the time its just to get rid of paint (looking at you Fox)
FYI you almost always get some brushing initially with Magura’s own pads until after a few rides and solid bedding in.
220 rotors on organic pads in the Ultimates is apparently too much. The guy testing it went back to a 200 rotor.
Don't get me wrong, I've been running exclusively sintered pads for the past 10 years. If nothing else the consistency over a long run and the longevity are amazing. But organics do have more of a bite when cold. Heck, sintered pads even improve when getting up to temperature.
i was considering doing that since i have the tool at the shop now, although i've killed 3 rotors and countless pads in these 3 years on them on the same bike without having issues, if not skill related at the start, aligning calipers and not having rubbing rotors, although now it's just due to the rotor not being straight
Managed bike shops for 20+, will never run anything other than Galfer pads and rotors. Made my Guide Ultimates feel like a completely new and moar amazing brake. Mind blown.
Looks likes Lewis is planning an updated version of their LH ultimate with a different caliper and thumb screw for their lever pivot adjustment.
I also found in Vojo mag (french/belgian website) reviews of the Beringer and 612 brakes. Google translate should be decent from french to english but I have translated the tldr of each review.
https://www.vojomag.com/test-freins-beringer-br4ve-de-la-moto-au-velo/
Beringer wanted to create a very specific brake lever feel similar to their Moto brakes with very little dead stroke with an adjustment screw to reduce it even further (possible to hydrolock the brake via this screw). Vojo had some wandering bite point issues during their limited amount of testing. Might be worthwhile to wait for some revision/updates before buying cause they are not cheap.
https://www.vojomag.com/decouverte-612-die-bremse-les-freins-artisanaux/
Felix of 612 benchmarked his brake against the Code RSC and Trickstuff Maxima so the lever feel is relatively similar on the more progressive side of things and Vojo confirmed that feeling. Caliper is massive so people with UHMWPE spokes or other thick spoke like I9 alu spoke might have clearance issues. Vojo testing was very limited in terms of tracks steepness and time so haven't had the chance to fully push them in mid-summer alpine heat and length of tracks but they were pleased with their performance in mellower terrain with 180mm rotor.
So we can pay a grand, for a brake set with 0 information about it on their website, that does what shimano does? ( shitty brake point?)
Damn a good start
ill have a read about the 612, those are interesting
There is a seperate website for the Beringer MTB:
https://www.ride-beringer.com/en/
I think they are mostly courting clients that already have Beringer brakes on their moto and are looking for that same specific brake lever feel on their MTB or E-MTB.
yeah i know their website but it says nothing about the brakes, what's the slave piston or master piston size?
what am i supposed to expect from the brake? proprietary pad shape is enough to not even consider these, but, looks like pistons have magnets, it's not said anywhere ( other than in this review you linked )
so they price themselves close to Trickstuff while being far away in terms of performance...
Has anyone run aftermarket rotors with their Hayes Dominion brakes?
I called their tech center, and they recommend sticking with rotors that are 1.95mm (2mm at most) or narrower due to piston retraction.
Vital review got me curious about the Trickstuff Dachle rotors, especially since they're a surprisingly a decent value, but they are 2.05mm wide.
it's really not a problem, it's basically 2mm. Just put one on the rear with trickstuff pads, let's see
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment