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Which is exactly why these bent seat tubes and effective seat tube angles are such bullshit when it comes to XL bikes (yeah, it's personal).
It does also seem like they got rid of the 'Straight Shot' downtube so knock block isn't necessary. I understood that they were looking for more frame stiffness with that but I could never tell the difference compared to older Trek models.
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/19211463/
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/19211465/
https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/19211468/
Time to abandon the daftness which is virtual seat tube angle. Define the seat height and then the offset between the centre of the bb and centre of the saddle rail.
On a serious note, Unno provides the seat tube angle at different heights. And I made a calculator calculating the effective angle at seat height, which even calculates the actual seat tube angle from two different frame sizes, if those two have different effective angles provided (assuming the actual seat tube angles are the same considering manufacturers are mostly lazy in this regard). Or you just take it off a photo, which is reasonably precise, at least it used to be where a 75° virtual bike was actually sub 70
Straight seat tubes intersecting the bottom bracket would be fine, although pivots tend to get in the way.
On the other hand, (X)S size riders usually get an even steeper seat tube angle, which though not as big of a problem as sitting over the rear axle, most likely is a problem nevertheless (didn't give it as much thought as the XL scenario, which is a personal problem, as mentioned), while M and L riders tend to have their seats fairly close to the stack height, which actually makes the published numbers reasonably close in reality as well. It's mainly the XL guys that bear the brunt of this issue, at least when it comes to overly slack seat tube angles. But these things are getting better in any case, so a drastic change in this field might not be as necessary as it used to be.
Logic.