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It's physics. The braking torque applied increases linearly with the radius of the brake disc. Torque = Force × radius Ignoring other variables (like brake setup, applied force on the lever, same disc design, equally bed in brake pads and discs), increasing the brake disc diameter from 200 mm to 220 mm corresponds to a 10% increase in braking torque. This, in fact, feels for the user like "power is more easily accessible" and "you don't need to squeeze the levers as much". It's actually 10% less squeezing 😄 Then there are other benefits like a generally cooler disc and...

I am running Magura MDR-S and MDR-P rotors on my bikes. The Storm are definitely more of an XC/AM rotor, great rotors, but not up to the task at hand for you. Thicker rotors can help with heat but is not always the full story. Material in the friction ring and spider can has as much or more impact on dealing with heat. Correction: Thicker rotors won't change your power but will add some heat management for sure. - I work for Magura - full disclosure

But do they come in pretty colors??😉

Anther vote for the TRP RS05E rotors. They are great.

TRP S05e rotors (2.3mm thick). They're like Galfer Sharks, but thicker and cost half as much. Also have better hole pattern (doesn't leave ridges in pads) and tend to be pretty damn straight out of the box.

I'm blanking right now and can't remember for sure, but UDH hanger threads are lefty loosey correct? What could be happening is that the UDH hanger retention bolt isn't 100% tight when the axle is threaded in and tightened. In turn causing the hangar retention bolt to simultaneously tighten, which creates more binding and tension on the axle threads than intended? And thanks for the Axle Foley reference Robot.

A professional mechanic, as in works for professional road teams, showed me to use both teflon tape and pipe dope on important threads like BB's. Pipe dope is that white paste that plumbers use on house pipes.

Couldn't help with the Session aside from ideas and moral support since they were out in UT, but I was able to free mine. My axle is broached on both ends for a 6mm hex so I took a breaker bar and 6mm bit on one side, long hex key on the other. I approached it like I approach removing ball joints at home: slow and firm pressure. Wrapped a ratchet strap around the pedal and the breaker bar and tightened it down to add a constant load then began pressing down on the other side. Took a bit but...

I too had the (steel) axle on my Raaw Madonna v3.2 randomly seize a few weeks back. It too was torqued to spec with park tools grease on the threads. Edit: with UDH rear end. I tried just about everything to get it off, but the only thing that worked in the end was hammering an oversized torx bit into the axle, then using a very long lever and a lot of force. I messaged Raaw and they advised me to user Motorex bike grease moving forwards.

It's possibly galled - when fine aluminium threads are tightening in to another alloy part without grease, the material sticks to itself and chews up as if some of the alloy gets transferred to the other part which adds resistance to the thread. It can be tough to fix once its happened - something like freeze spray can help shrink the axle and get lubricant between the surfaces but you need to be careful because the threads can strip. It can also happen on certain extra fine threads if the grease isn't thick enough - moly grease or anti seize...