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I’ve got Maven Base and Dominions. Not a lot of difference in power but the Dominion lever point doesn’t wander in and out as much. I like the Dominions better.
The stupid Maven levers are slick like ice. Actually had my finger slip off on a steep turn and broke my face something good. I had to put grip tape on the levers.
Looking forward to putting the Dominions on this newer bike once I have a chance.
I had a so/so experience with those rotors. Admittedly, I'm a trp newb... but about 1/3 of the way into my usage of those rotors and the first set of brake pads, I started to develop ticking/clicking sensation that was not only audible, but I could feel through the levers. I tried to champfer the leading edges of the pads slightly (which is futile, because they will always wear back into a sharp edge) but that did not work. I fail to see how a rough/hard edge on the voids in the rotor would cause this. I've never had that happen before in all manor/quality of disc brakes (race cars w/slotted, mtb, moto etc).
I ended up going back to the RS-01E, 2.3mm standard rotors and have not had this issue since.
Thanks, I ordered 1 of the S05e in 220 to try and see how it fairs. If it has issues with straightness but I end up finding a benefit to stepping up to 220, I'll pony up for a 220mm Shark (running 203s of those) since they seem pretty reliable for me. I'm running Mavens with SRAM sintered pads FWIW. I was hesitant to get the S01e because it's stamped vs laser cut, and I hate dealing with warped rotors (and associate stamped with warping).
Haha agreed about the SRAM levers man. They're allergic to giving them any sort of grip. Outside of the wandering bite point, how did you like the base's? Heard they're much less "bitey" than the BRZ/Silver/Ult but how do they compare to the Dominions bite?
The Maven Base are good brakes, I'd be more than happy running them if I didn't have a set of Dominions ready to swap over. I don't want to overstate the wandering bite on the Mavens, it's not like Shimanos, it's subtle and all brake levers move a little when heating up. But the Dominions move a slight bit less.
I haven't gone back-to-back on them, but I'd say in general they feel like a slightly less refined Dominion - initial bite is similar and well controlled. I've taken them down some super steep jank where brake control is key and they were great. Lever pull is plenty light, I never thought about it while riding. My only nits are the slick lever blade, I prefer the Domion lever shape, and the new-style master that goes parallel to the bar is annoying for quieting cable slap. Grip tape shreds gloves so if I was going to keep these Mavens long term I'd pull out the dremel and put in some grip grooves.
It's amazing that we're comparing little details like this - so many good brake choices these days.
The S01E is laser cut, and works fine, although for bigger pads like V4, the bottom of the pad is slightly hanging under the braking surface. The S05 is better in that regard.
I would stay away from the Shark 223mm, had a pair for a season and the problem is that the tiny holes "line up", as in they're always on the same radius from the center of the rotor/hub. It means that when the pads use the rotor, grooves form in lines at the same radius. In the end I had a rotor that was 1.7mm thick at its thickest, and 1.4mm at its thinnest (in those groves). It took a lot longer to bed in new pads, it made additional noise when braking, and 1.4mm didn't feel that same to me.
That "problem" isn't as big on the smaller versions, the tiny holes are all staggered out much better. And on the TRP S05E, I haven't noticed that yet after a full season on them, and the holes look better positioned, so all good in my opinion.
I have been running the 220/203mm TRP RS05 rotors with my Maximas for this season and have been very happy. Previously I had the trickstuff rotors 223/203 and I got really tired of truing them after every other ride. After installing the TRPs, I haven't had to true them all season which has been a real treat. They do make a high frequency ticking noise when braking at high speeds (most rotors do) but no squeaks or squeals etc.
I have two pairs for two wheel sets and both 220mm ones required a very minor true out the box. That is because the Maxima pads sit very close to the rotors. On a caliper like Maven/code I wouldn't bother with that minor true. I couldn't use my parktool truing fork because of their 2.3mm thickness but good ol knipex piers work just fine.
Huh, interesting. Yeah I've noticed that on my 203mm Sharks there are always a series of parallel lines on my pads. I hadn't thought to check rotor thickness to see if the rotors are wearing unevenly. One of the other local guys got 223mm Sharks and was complaining about them being really noisy. My 203s are only noisy (with sintered pads) when they're cool and dusty - after a little bit of braking on a descent they quiet down to just the typical sintered grinding sound.
The TRP website was where I got the stamped vs. laser cut from. Maybe they're referring to the overall rotor cutout, rather than the holes. Pad hanging off the bottom is no bueno though - that's a recipe for issues (I've run into that when accidentally running 203mm post mount on 200mm rotor).
did you have the UL or HD rotors? i was decided to pair my GR4s to the UL for some weight savings but i don't want to deal with rotors that don't stay straight
I had HD versions. GR4 and UL should not go in the same sentence. I've been down that route and saving weight on rotors has always caused me a lot of hassle. In addition to constant truing, the big cut outs translate to some pulsating feeling in the lever. Especially in heavy duty brake systems.
I gave up on rotor truing tools entirely... I found that I end up warping them worse then when I started. Knipex pliers are the move for me when truing rotors. Fortunately, that means one less tool to take with me on fly away trips.
Mmh i loved the look, plus the 203mm have smaller cuts compared to the 160mm for example
I might listen to you on this one and get some radic rotors
Light and thick
Try some rubberized heat shrink on the levers. It might give enough grip without destroying gloves.
Silicone tubing.
Check out Lizard Skins DSP brake lever grips. It's a super thin bar tape cut specifically for brake levers. I use it on my Dominion A4 and Maximas. It is nice and grippy and as a bonus it helps with cold metal levers during winter.
Same as the other responses. I do wear out the rotor with red semi pads.
Amazing that this problem still crops up. Formula had the same problem about 15 years ago and the results was exactly the same as you describe.
At the time I was thinking that the best way to design a rotor is to have as constant a cross section as possible, making a hole smaller as you go forward in rotation should be making another one bigger.
It surprises me because it's near trivial to audit in your CAD model...
I had a bad run with TRP too. First sec of rotors with DHr Evo’s lasted less than a ride as it turned out the stock TRP pads had the blue backing plate paint contaminating the pad compound. It cooked in to rotor and that was that.
I got another set but just found they never felt powerful. I swapped in some Magura rotors and it was much better immediately. Ultimately I was never happy with the power of the DHr Evo. Someone I know at one of the distributors mentioned similar experiences and very small piston leaks might have been to blame.
I've always had issues with the blue pads. Swapped for purple Galfer, evo pro with r5 rotors are pretty good.
They are definitely not the most powerful but a friend runs the green galfer and Green sinter(brand) pad and they are awesome.
an early set of dhr evo regular's i had used to weep from the piston seals.
what were they 'stuck to'?
I think so. Doesn't work with aluminium backed pads (are not so common though), will pull any metallic wear particles, the magnets have to be high temperature resistant and can demagnetise if overheated, etc.
There's nothing really wrong with the pins that most brakes use.
What would be a good set of brake pads that work better “cold” rather than needing to be warmed up after a few corners before they start preforming?
I need to replace my Intend pads and while I thought they were ok I want something that hits operating temperature faster since my brake system has way more hear capacity than my 160lb rider weight can use.
Something organic or semi-metallic rather than full sintered. Galfer greens bed in like instantly, so that could work really well. I tried those and they felt great but wore down really fast. I'm about your weight, and prefer organics on my non-ebikes for that reason. For ebikes, I run sintered because their extra weight pushes me over the threshold.
I’m 150lb and I have 2 setups with MTX red pads. One with Hayes + 200x1.95 rotors (Hayes D) and another with Formula Cura 4 with Formula Rotors (200x2.3 monolith). I find the Hayes are up to braking power in cold faster than the Formulas. The Formula seem to stay cooler on heavy consistent braking though.
All that to say rotors width I believe may play a role in “warm up” and I like MTX reds.
Im on the 203mm TRP 2.3 rotors
My only disclaimer is that I have no problem with either being “cold”. It may take a few seconds of using it, but doesn’t impact me. I don’t ride in that cold so YRMV.
Obviously pads are the least cost option to try first.
Galfer green is the best for quick brake performance but comes at the cost of pad life.... however they are great.
Got a big ride in on the TRP S05e 220 rotor today. You guys were spot on. It was nearly perfectly true out of the box and took very little to true up. On the bike, they have a nice solid bite, maybe a little less sharp than the Sharks but somehow feel firmer at the lever. Waaaayyy quieter. They made 2 little squeaks I think in 3 hours that went away instantly. Anyways, pretty big fan of these after 1 ride. When I wear out my 203 Sharks I plan on replacing them with the 203 version of the S05e.
Swiss stop organic are good, go well with an alloy core Shimano rotor in cold temps.
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