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Thanks for all you share on this topic.
I think these modern Enduro bikes have gotten < 64' HTA's and it adds a TON of stiction on a right side up fork. I've played with this by pressing my own Mezzer (Avy Hybrid set up) straight down on my Relay. That bike with only a 160mm travel has a 62.9' HTA (actual measurement). On flat ground the stiction is pretty dan high, placing the rear wheel on the curb to steepen the HTA and pressing downwards takes a lot less force, like >20#s less force.
Anyways my hope is that an USD fork would resist this kind of stiction a lot better than a right side up fork.
So my question to you and understanding that I don't have a time issue and don't mind waiting for the fork (I have a solid fork after all): If you were building a new full power e-bike, you were an experienced but definitely not Pro rider, but generally do the jumps and drops, and planned to run the new fork at probably 175mm (yes, 175mm!) would you run the Flash 35 or go for the Flash 38?
My concern is that maybe going to too stiff could reduce tracking and overall performance. Also, I do try and save weight when it doesn't hurt performance.
Thoughts?
Im putting my dorado on my Levo tonight to see how the steering is - but I don’t think there’s a downside to larger stanchions, except weight (doesn’t really matter on an ebike).
@Suns_PSD Larger 38mm stanchions should be stiffer all around, a 20mm axle with 2 pinch bolts/lug should be stiffer than 15mm w/ single pinch bolts. But the 15mm axle setup can also have a larger lug/hub interface. The air spring will be different due to the larger stanchions requiring a bigger piston and having a larger volume. The whole Flash 38 chassis is different.
If you were running at 190mm on a heavy e-bike or DH bike, that would tip more to the F38.
Has there been a weight published for the F38 yet? The F35 is pretty much 2300g on the nose (for the non-blackline version).
I feel either one would be good, it comes down to how much "unknown" are you OK with. The air spring on the F38 would be the biggest question for me.
Going from the Edge at 175mm to a F35 at 190mm, the air spring performance is quite different. Maybe due to the air spring pos/neg chamber ratio, maybe the change in lower leg/crown volume, I'm not sure. The F35 at 190mm in general feels like it offers less support, but with a more progressive ramp in the last 30-40mm than the Edge at 175mm. Setup is proving to be quite different.
For a 80/82KG rider, on a 150/170 bike, would you recommend the Flash or the Edge? Also, Linearizer vs regular Travelizer to have decent support and a nice plush fork?
In the Pinkbike article of the Flash 38 and Infinity WC, they state the target weight for the Flash 38 is ~2.5kg, which seems very reasonable.
I'm going to say Flash. I wouldn't want less, but I don't need more.
linearizer; I don't know. out of the box it's soft feeling but tough at the end, would be cool to see it on graph. I may change the cap to add volume and see what happens. so simple as it is, I like that a lot.
i used to run a vol spacer or two on my 170mm Fox 38 and it was miserable until I took them all out 2yr ago. felt like 140mm of really good suspension, then 30mm of teeth gnashing progression. Flash 35 feels like this out of the box but progression wall is further in the travel. only 1 ride so far but i have good 'feelers' haha
I’m trying to change the rebound tune on my Edge but I’m not sure how to get access to the rebound piston - how do I access it?
Two options:
1) After you remove the compression assembly and drain the damper, push the rod all the way though and out the bottom with the piston attached. The main issue with this method is that it can be tricky to reinstall the damper rod in the tube without the split ring on the piston getting out of place.
2) Fully remove the damper from the leg. To do this drain oil as above, remove the cir clip on the top of the leg, then use a correctly sized socket/piece of PVC pipe/etc to gently tap the black piece that holds the damper tube in the bottom of the leg. It should pop free and the rest of the damper assembly comes out the top of the leg with the bladder.
So I got the damper tube out of the lower, but how do I get the rebound rod/piston out of the damper tube itself? As in separate it from the bladder? Even fully depressed it doesn't come out the bottom...
I should note this is in an Edge, perhaps the damper rod is shorter than on the Flash.
Use something safe to push it out from above, or carefully grab the piston bolt with some needle nose pliers and pull it out. You will need to remove the foot nut/rebound needle assembly to do it this way.
The better method would be to just remove the seal head with the rebound rod attached. I have never taken it fully apart and am not sure how the damper tube is held in place. I think you can just pop the white seal head piece out of the bladder and pull the assembly out.
just write them an email, last time i had an answer from cornelius after just 3min
Perhaps this video shows some pointers for the damper removal and installation?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XY4Mf0TAbX4
finally got to ride today. Fork is insane. ended up running the larger volume cap, spring curve quite nice
I'm 165lb geared and fork is 90psi @ 170.. almost reach max travel.
brake pad rattle is so ridiculous i need to fix that before i ride again, my o-ring doesn't work now that i put refrigerators LOL
ordered Hover Monocoque last night... hehehe
awesome video about old school USD singlecrowns with dylan tremblay
I’d love to see one with the current option
Push, Podium, Intend, Bright
That would be great
Super down for this channel. Love that Dylan is down to earth and not one of those weird (non-mtb) podcasters. You know the type.
I used to own both the Maverick DUC32 & SC32. They were sick & light
And Paul designed a cool USD fork for X-fusion.
https://www.bikemag.com/mountain-bike-gear/x-fusions-inverted-revel-becomes-a-reality
Dylan was a HUGE influence back in my street riding days with the 180 Magazine Crew in the late 90's and early '00s. I'm stoked that he's started a YouTube channel. At least I assume that it's new. Otherwise the algorithm has failed me. I have a huge collection of old parts, but I suck at selling things. Perhaps I should just send him ALL of my parts and frames to fuel the channel?
hey all, chiming back in. getting a couple ride videos together. enjoy the watch. hope it helps!
MTB is the most fun sport ever
Hey all, here's part 2.
not trying to be youtube professional. just made these videos to help out the folks on the forums here.
more than happy to answer any questions i can.
3rd part will just be garage talk.
cheers!
here is what i have to report so far
1. this is undoubtably the most incredible fork I have ever felt or ridden
2. the chassis is truly a work of art. it's so 'free moving' that the stability and stiffness are un-rivaled. trying to explain how easily the fork 'moves' that it can't possibly bind or create odd feedback from terrain, steering, repetitive hits
3. my bike is quieter, and so "settled" over all terrain. if you have headphones, just listen to how the wheels come in contact with the ground- there is almost a dead thunk sound
4. no argument it will make you a better rider.
5. carries speed and traction as if you're riding a different bike. it pushes through rock gardens and swift terrain changes as if you weigh less (does that make sense?) there's such a light feeling when riding, you can just smash through everything will full force. freaking mental how good it feels
Without even watching the videos, I'm pretty sure I concur with your sentiments on the Intend Flash @collinmcballin . 🙂
I have been getting more time on it recently and the feeling at the bars is quite unique. It is very calm and comfortable, but not dead or overly muted. You can still feel some impacts, they are just nice soft "thuds". The Flash just tracks and goes where it is pointed.
This sensation is most apparent when switching back and forth with other bikes/forks. Even dangerous at times when the hands almost get blasted off the bars because I'm not used to holding on so tight!
Ha! it is quite special isn't it! you said it perfectly as well.
thought I'd need more time riding to gather feedback. but it's immediately apparent.
it's my first time wearing comfy shoes, but not my first time walking 😅
one last vid of Garage talk.... unplanned wearing of my vital Raw shirt, LOL.
Hover MC shock should be here this week...
i don't know if there's a Hover Monocoque thread but here's this for viewing
cheers,
I got myself a 25 my Edge (180mm) with the original dropouts to be compatible with all of my torque cap wheel sets. As much as I want to love this fork, I really struggle in flat tight corners and off camber sections, where I am missing support/security/grip. Sometimes line choice is an issue -especially in off camber root sections. In the steep and rough stuff it performs just too good, unbelievble! lateral flex with the wheel between knees test is brutal. I am 95kg/210lbs, if I had this fork on a trail bike I would probably be happy. But on my heavy Enduro I expect it to handle differently. I also believe that a lighter rider wouldnt have these issues.
Just read about onyx hubs... Maybe its also an issue of dropout and my wheelset combintion. Onyx classic with DT FR541 and DH casing. Need to test with my Syntace carbon wheel...
To everybody who had the chance to ride both the forks Edge & Flash, whats your impression in terms of stiffness? is there a difference between the two? In the emails I got from Intend they stated that Flash and Edge share the same characteristics and theres nothing to none improvement in stiffness to be expected and I wouldnt be happy with a Flash either.
I would really like to test out the flash, thinking about getting the F38 straight away...
Cheers everybody
I'm glad that we have a differing opinion. You are the quad-fecta of: 1) the wrong hub without a solid front axle, 2) higher rider weight, 3) longer travel fork setting, and 4) trail conditions.
I think anyone on an e-bike, over 180#s, over 170mm travel better wait for the Flash 38. And anyone regardless of those conditions, better also chose a front hub with a solid front axle design.
The next question is: how much improvement you can experience with JUST a front hub swap?
The hub makes a big difference. My Essential is three fiddy times more flexy at 170mm with my Onyx than with my TA Hadleys.
I haven't properly ridden the Edge but hopefully its okay I still comment. I'm pushing the Flash as much as I can. why go the length/price then under-fork for no reason? "I own a Tahoe, why downgrade to a TrailBlazer?" same to Flash v Edge
-classic hubs are stiffer than vesper, especially TC's. and 541 is incredibly stiff rim. too much for me but to each their own :D
Contrary; I run flash blackline with onyx vesper (non TC) and Zipp 3zero moto on 1.6 comp race spokes... Probably the flexiest rim/wheel combo in the world and I wouldn't change anything. rode a gnarly -31% grade trail yesterday, 960ft drop in .56mi.. only ruts and off-camber blind switchbacks. unreal how stiff and controlled that fork is, especially in deep rut-suck situations. but again, i never considered edge from the start, and still wouldn't. maybe a 150mm bike and 150lb C rider
Your edge should be easy to sell. get a flash, try to get blackline as forged lower legs may help you also. I'm sure a F38 will be all the more better (if you want to wait). I reckon that fork is specific for heavy class/electric bicycles.
keep it fun,
cheers!
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