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So what hoses are the pros using?
Neko and Dak were using Saint hoses a couple years ago. I made that change on mine. Agree it feels more direct.
I’ve seen many using the shimano bh59 hose
If I’m not mistaken they mentioned it on a MoiMoiTV video as well at some stage
If you go through all the tech ransoms on the red site you’ll see some from ages ago
those are just bh90 hoses
bh59 is worse for sure
Does anyone have tips on how to measure the brake caliper vertical alignment so that the brake pads are centered on the friction ring? One method I was thinking was to use a marker on the disc and then observe where the pads make contact.
I’m using Shimano Saint brakes with TRP RS01E 223mm discs. The rear has an IS-PM adapter and the caliper fits very tightly, so it might require some creative thinking. I have couple of Magura shims to align caliper.
I think the question is more along the lines of the diameter ring where the pads contact, not where the pad makes contact with the rotor on the surface area of the pad itself vs. where it does not (that would cover checking if it moves parallel to the rotor or rotates inwards).
For the 'wear ring' method, sharpieing the rotor makes sense.
Just bought the trinity a few weeks ago, didn't have the chance to go on a trail yet but went around town trying to bed in the brakes.
The modulation is amazing, but I still feel there is power left there on a 1 finger pull. Still can't fully lock the front wheel on a fast hard 1 finger pull (unless I use 2, which I never do). Don't need to lock the wheel when I go blasting through a trail, but I want to know I have all that range on 1 finger.
Is this something that shows I still need to bed in the pads more? Using 220 rotors front and rear, 2.3mm monolithic forumlas, 94-96kg average kitted, 16.7kg bike
Thanks!
I weigh more than you and ran these on a bike similarly weighed, you shouldn't have problems locking either front or rear wheels. I would suggest trying to bed them better and re-do your bleed to be certain, getting all the air out can be a bit of a chore the first time. I'd say something is off though b/c locking either front or rear shouldn't take much effort at all.
How many rides have you done on brakes? Mine didn’t take too long to bed in.
You may also want to re-visit your bleed, I had to bleed a few times to get all the air out and now my brakes are solid. There was a good reply to me about this a few pages back.
I can lock the front wheel pretty easily on my setup with 203 2.3mm rotors but Im also only at 75kg rider.
Locking the front wheel on asphalt with grippy front tire and long travel fork requires crazy stopping power.
I think you and Primoz are thinkin' too hard, and that's not meant with any holier than thou. The pads will leave a witness mark on the rotor's brake track, even on initial bed in. I'd be cautious introducing anything that may negatively affect pucker power, such as permanent marker.
I'd say I did about 20 runs of 30km/h-5km/h braking spurts with a bit of commuting to work and back home through town
I guess I will try a re-bleed eventually if I don't notice any improvement. The free travel on the lever is good and short and don't feel anything spongy after the bite point. Also did the zip tie of the lever close to the handlebar trick.
There is another issue though, when I go do a hard front brake pull on the lever that is very short in duration (about 0.5seconds/less) with instant release afterwards, sometimes it feels like I get dragging pads for another 0.5 seconds when the pistons retract. Sometimes I don't get this issue, they retract instantly, other times it happens like this. Is this a lagging piston issue? I am too much of a novice to figure it out, but now I also feel like there is a different sensation to the hard front brake pull when it initiates, but not sure if this is just in my head.. sometimes I can audibly, clearly hear the pads engage the rotor, other times not (and depending on this, the rotors squeal a bit or howl louder). No idea if this is normal
I did write to Intend and they said to get the brakes hot first and if it doesn't fix it, to contact them again... though I can't really get them HOT in town like on a trail (even after the 20 runs of braking spurts, I still have this happen)
the back is probably at half the bedding process and I can lock the wheel, the modulation is great
the front is weird and I wish I could go to a trail sooner, don't have any of these bedding in machines at any bike stores in town and just me riding around will take a bit longer
Have a Magic Mary with addix ultra soft on the front wheel with a 170mm fox, gets quite grippy + 29 psi
What about if you are using used rotors on another set of brakes? There are no witness marks then
If the sharpie will affect the braking power, well, damn, we better cover up those rotors with well sealed covers REAL quick. Think of all the dust, muck and sand getting onto the rotors affecting braking power.
Anecdotally it took me about 700m of descending after doing a “street bed in” process for them to fully bed in.
I’d just take it on a few rides first before troubleshooting any more.
KEEP THE HYPOTHETICALS COMING!!!!
You'd still need to bed the brakes in, which would bring back the witness marks. I look at it as not introducing an unintended consequence. Is perfect* pad depth worth potentially screwin' up a set of pads? But that could be my frugality speaking. Will the solvent and/or resin in the ink mess things up? I don't know, hence my predilection for working with known variables.
Will do that
https://www.vitalmtb.com/news/press-release/hope-technology-unveils-evo-brake
The new Hopes are revealed, I assume 6% increase in piston size from 18/16 means 18/18mm
I might give these a go when they come out with the power levers
Added lever bleed port puts them on my list of brakes to try now.
Im curious to see how it is, it looks to me it’s in a position where air can get trapped underneath the diaphragm, so I’d still bleed them the normal way
Too bad they aren't compatible anymore with that massive 3.3mm rotor
GR4 and TR4 both use larger leading pistons (as per video).
Still DOT?
I think so, no details that I’ve seen about that, now they have the same pads GR and TR but both different from e4/v4 shape
They most likely realized almost nobody uses them, they’re too expensive and heavy
Thanks!
Kaha dead stroke seems the easiest to get ultrashort. Mine is 6-7mm. The firmness is unrivaled. However, the lever shape is not great and no tooless on the trail reach/bite adjust. The bite point grub screen requires removal of the lever from the bar in my experience. Parts long term are also a concern.
The hopes seem like the best option going forward. Would have liked a bleeding edge port and larger resivour but finally some company has lever options! Been saying that’s needed for years. Parts are obviously not an issue.
Vented rotors are no loss—PITA to true.
The raidic hose connectors are amazing. No barbs or expendable parts—totally resuable. I use them on my hopes btw
- "Revised bore cap design reduces width for more frame clearance"
Maybe the new Hope calipers will be a better match with my frame given the V4 caliper cannot be fully centered. The ironic part is that it is room to have the caliper closer to the frame, it's just not possible because the bolt holes won't allow it.
That said I believe it's wise to have all caliper pistons in the same size to limit inconsistency in drag. These two factors makes the new calipers something to consider for me personally at least.
I also have no real need for the bleedport on the lever side, but I also don't mind it. If it's there it's simply an extra option.
I'll do a re-evaluation next spring to see where I'm at with my Tech 4 V4 setup.
Just got my bore cap tool so I at least can open up the calipers and get the fricken silicone grease out of my calipers. Absolutely first and last time I'm having grease anywhere near brakes. 🙄
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment