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And then....soaking up the waterbars on your 2.1" tire equipped hardtail with 2" Answer Alumilite riser bar and Judy SL Ti converted to the 3" Judy DH coil White Brothers kit.
We tasted death with cantilevers and moisture in the olden days of yore!!!
From Shimano: "We should really call it “proprietary brake fluid” but I guess that doesn’t have the same ring to it. I can tell you with absolute certainty that Magura fluid will destroy Shimano brakes in a very short amount of time. I’ve seen it happen several times."
https://bikerumor.com/2013/04/11/tech-speak-brake-fluid-break-down-and-…
Although I've read many more anecdotal accounts of it being absolutely fine I'd choose which fluid to run with caution.
My Shigura is with Shimano oil because I figured that the calliper is pretty bombproof and the Shimano levers are designed for it.
It always baffles me when people mix fluids and then complain about performance issues
My setup for reference:
"Shimano: Absolutely not, mineral oil is an unfortunate term to use because it is so vague and generic."
"SRAM/Avid: We use Glycol based fluids, specifically DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 for a number of reasons. DOT fluid has a high boiling point, is manufactured to an agreed upon set of safety standards and is readily available in any auto or motorcycle store."
Though, honestly, 'A competitor's mineral brake fluid will eat our seals' seems like a far fetched thing to say. For example, Trelleborg has a rubber seal chemical compatibility document outlining compatibility of different rubber materials to different chemicals. There are 25 pages of different chemicals listed. One of them is, and I quote, 'Mineral Oil' (I read this as a catch-all term for different mineral oils as they are that similar between each other in chemical properties).
https://www.tss.trelleborg.com/-/media/tss-media-repository/tss_website…
If Shimano seals and Magura oil really are that incompatible, someone is doing something weird.
https://trickstuff.de/bionol/?lang=en
And some major german webshops usually have it as well.
I had a 1000ml bottle and used it on every mineral compatible systems (Magura, Shimano, Formula, Rotor) without any problems at all.
Different industries have much higher requirements for the components than (mountian)biking industry does. There are a few solutions that work well. Time and time it has turned out bike component suppliers use the same solutions, but market them as proprietary, because a lot of people simply don't know about these things. Sort of a win-win situation for them really.
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/search/4758745/?q=putoline&o=relevance
But there is also one guy who thinks that the oil damaged his seals: https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/druckpunktwandern-shimano-xt-m8000.7713…
But hard to say if its really because of the oil. I use putoline for a seson now and brakes work predictable apart from the rare bite point issue on the rear brake which might be a bad bleed.
Of all these I prefer the feel of XTR but thats not cheap. XT is also fine but very similar to SLX. As a bonus the color matches with MT7 caliper's.
If you really need non-servo then XTR BL-M9100 might be your only option.
Has anyone had a similar problem? I installed a SHIMANO XTR BR-M9120 lever and a Magura MT 7 caliper. I use Shimano RT-MT905 brake discs, Magura Royal blood mineral oil. I bleed the brakes but the gap between the brake disc and the pads is so small that it can be heard all the time.
Too much work to keep it working good? Could you explain me what you meant, please? Thinking about trying shigura setup but not convinced yet.
Yeah - just very little pad gap so a constant battle to keep them running rub free, and lots more cup bleeding on the Shimano levers to keep them consistent. With the Magura levers they stay way more consistent with less maintenance.
Very few issues for me. Including 2 ½ weeks of solid Alps riding this summer. Only had to change the rear pads in that time
No more bleeding than a regular Shimano or Magura setup.
I have some pad rub, but thats down to the MDR-P rotors that are a pain to true. Won’t be getting them again.
XTR levers, Shimano barb and olive, Shimano mineral oil.
Pain to true? The caliper on the floating bolts on the frame? Could the issue be that the rotor is positioned sideways (since it's floating) when you're setting up the caliper and centering the rotor on the carrier would make it easier? The rotor floating side-to-side will still create some pad rub, but it should be minimal (mostly only making noise, shouldn't drag that much). This is mostly guessing though, don't have any experience with any of the components from the setup (or floating rotors for that matter).
The rotors just aren’t true and because of the float on the carrier it’s really hard to get them even close to straight. Normally it’s not an issue but on my setup clearance is minimal so there’s always a bit of brushing. It’s annoying but yeah I don’t notice it while riding.
The individual pads do make it super easy to align everything and get the pistons actuating evenly. Love the MT callipers for that.
Hey guys,
Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I’ve got XTR M9120 levers, thinking of getting the MT7 calipers. Is the below setup correct? I wasn’t sure about which hose to use and which banjo connector to the caliper.
lever: shimano
olive: shimano
insert: shimano
hose/lever connector nut: shimano
rubber cover: shimano
hose: magura
hose/caliper banjo connection magura
caliper: magura
That’s what i used
Post a reply to: Shimano... Magura... Shigura Brake Setup