Hey guys,
Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I’ve got XTR M9120 levers, thinking of getting the MT7 calipers. Is the below setup correct? I...
Hey guys,
Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I’ve got XTR M9120 levers, thinking of getting the MT7 calipers. Is the below setup correct? I wasn’t sure about which hose to use and which banjo connector to the caliper.
lever: shimano
olive: shimano
insert: shimano
hose/lever connector nut: shimano
rubber cover: shimano
hose: magura
hose/caliper banjo connection magura
caliper: magura
Sounds correct, thats the combination I used on several Shigura setups.
In case you can get Bionol from Trickstuff or the Plutoline 2.5 as brake fluid I would recommend using that instead of Magura or Shimano fluid. Especially the Plutoline is a lot thinner and works better with the shimano levers. As they still sometimes have issues.
Did the same to my MT5 two weeks ago, because of some ongoing problems with the Maguras. I had Saint levers around and just went for it. Due to only having Magura spare parts around I used the Magura oil, pin and olive. After two bigger days on them it seems like they are holding up great, no leaking.
From what I read online you can get them running in all spare part constellations as long as you are cutting the brake hose straight and apply some pressure at the hose when screwing the connector nut into the lever.
Btw best decision ever swapping to Shimano levers. Already thinking about upgrading my MT7 as well.
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could also be that I exacerbated this problem by running my pads all the way down. Or its because of the heavy strain by mainly using them on long descents on the ebike (but I'm a relatively light rider).
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could...
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could also be that I exacerbated this problem by running my pads all the way down. Or its because of the heavy strain by mainly using them on long descents on the ebike (but I'm a relatively light rider).
Yeah. Do not run your pads all the way down.
There’s a reason it says that in the manual.
What is the spring shaped like? Sram had a problem where they had the link between the two sides below the pad retention screw, making basically a spacer. They then moved to a v shaped link going over the screw to release this limitation.
Pistons are magnetic so the pad always stay on them.
Magura’s gave a very fine gap between pads and rotor so any marginal misalignment (often due to mounts not be faced) will also lead to problems down the line
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could...
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could also be that I exacerbated this problem by running my pads all the way down. Or its because of the heavy strain by mainly using them on long descents on the ebike (but I'm a relatively light rider).
Yeah. Do not run your pads all the way down.
There’s a reason it says that in the manual.
Will also happen if you used sintered...
Yeah. Do not run your pads all the way down.
There’s a reason it says that in the manual.
Will also happen if you used sintered pads
I also get this problem before the pads are heavily worn. But maybe I damaged the quad ring by doing it idk. I had this with two calipers and I'm running the thicker HS2 sram disc which might be also a factor.
I also get this problem before the pads are heavily worn. But maybe I damaged the quad ring by doing it idk. I had this with...
I also get this problem before the pads are heavily worn. But maybe I damaged the quad ring by doing it idk. I had this with two calipers and I'm running the thicker HS2 sram disc which might be also a factor.
There’s a good chance your calliper is not perfectly aligned… or it could just need a really good bleed and clean.
Magura’s need careful setup to get the best results.
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could...
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could also be that I exacerbated this problem by running my pads all the way down. Or its because of the heavy strain by mainly using them on long descents on the ebike (but I'm a relatively light rider).
Had that on my Shigura Setup and also von my current Hope T4V4. Mainly due to dirt & grime.
From time to time I mobilize all pistons of my brakes seperatly. Means pushing only one piston out, cleaning and lubing it. Then pushing it in and out for a couple of times.
Afterwards everything works fine.
Plus never wear your pads down to much on a Shigura Setup as the Shimano Lever doesn't have enough oil volume which should result in a pretty bad bite point and probably damaging something.
Had that on my Shigura Setup and also von my current Hope T4V4. Mainly due to dirt & grime.
From time to time I mobilize...
Had that on my Shigura Setup and also von my current Hope T4V4. Mainly due to dirt & grime.
From time to time I mobilize all pistons of my brakes seperatly. Means pushing only one piston out, cleaning and lubing it. Then pushing it in and out for a couple of times.
Afterwards everything works fine.
Plus never wear your pads down to much on a Shigura Setup as the Shimano Lever doesn't have enough oil volume which should result in a pretty bad bite point and probably damaging something.
As stated before it's actually a recommendation by Magura not to let your pads wear too much.
Nothing to do with oil volume... If it was an issue of volume in your lever, you'd have problems from day one. The volume doesn't change with pad wear unless you have a leak.
Magura.com: "Check the thickness of the brake pad: The combined thickness of the pad and the carrier plate must not be less than 2.5 mm. You can use the MAGURA transport device to test this (see the Manual)."
I also mobilized the pistons many times but that only helped until I did a steep and long alpine descent. It seems to correspond to high load scenarios like brake heavy alpine descends, ebike etc.
Thought I might leave this here. I made some longer levers for XT/Saint brakes. 25% longer than stock. So in theory there is about 25% more power at the same lever force or the same power at 25% less lever force. I am running the lever with a magura caliper and 220 front rotor. The power is pretty insane. I have a buddy running this lever on a saint, and he also is enjoying the extra power. I mainly made this because I ride significantly better when my hands are fresh and I know I can slow down.
It increases, but the bite point is so abrupt on the stock lever a little more throw is not the end of the world for me. The feel of the lever definitely changes, its feels closer to a Hayes or Hope v4. My buddy who uses the hope v4 brakes hopped on the bike with the saint/long lever and said he needed few runs to get used to the extra power (Same rotor size between bikes).
You might have better luck pairing the MT4100 levers without servowave to the Magura caliper. Longer lever, no servowave so no abrupt braking feel.
I was looking for more power. The servo wave I believe shortens the throw, so paired with a longer lever, it should be somewhat ideal. At least in my mind.
Hey guys. Wondering if anyone can help. I seem to have an issue with the banjo 90 degree connection to the mt7 caliper. When I squeeze the brake lever hard (Shimano m8100 lever) you can see a little weep of fluid passing the banjo seal. I've changed the brake hose and banjo connection a few times but it always seems to be happening. I was alerted that there might be an issue when I found my front pads contaminated and think this is where it has come from.
I tried this already, I replaced the banjo, seal and bolt entirely, but the same thing seemed to be happening, left me wondering if it's possible to overload the seal under heavy braking (for example)
You could insert a grub screw instead of the Banjo screw and carefully use a file to get any edges imperfections flat.
Buddy of mine had a similar problem and that was our quick fix for it. Altough he also had a lot of problems with the Magura lines in generell as he had 4 or 5 lines where the hose wasn't pressed correctly into the banjo.
Did you check for any sharp edges on the caliper?
You could insert a grub screw instead of the Banjo screw and carefully use a file...
Did you check for any sharp edges on the caliper?
You could insert a grub screw instead of the Banjo screw and carefully use a file to get any edges imperfections flat.
Buddy of mine had a similar problem and that was our quick fix for it. Altough he also had a lot of problems with the Magura lines in generell as he had 4 or 5 lines where the hose wasn't pressed correctly into the banjo.
And don’t forget Magura have a 5 year leak proof guarantee. Just send them the full system and they’ll sort you out.
If you were in the UK and I still worked for Magura, i could’ve easily sent you a new calliper. We had a lot of them… all of the issues (95% due to the end user) were lever/master related.
Just placed an order for 2, 2 piston calipers for my Xtr race levers and excited to get them out on the trail. I saw the list of what you need but is it advised not to use Shimano tubing? I have a bunch of those laying around and was hoping those would work as well.
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to be missing the Rubber brake line cover that goes over the nut at the master cylinder. Can anyone direct me to one or the proper name or part number to search because I am not finding much.
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to...
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to be missing the Rubber brake line cover that goes over the nut at the master cylinder. Can anyone direct me to one or the proper name or part number to search because I am not finding much.
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to...
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to be missing the Rubber brake line cover that goes over the nut at the master cylinder. Can anyone direct me to one or the proper name or part number to search because I am not finding much.
I didn't want it to end this way, but this is the way it happened. I'm picky about my brakes, and I've been searching for a...
I didn't want it to end this way, but this is the way it happened. I'm picky about my brakes, and I've been searching for a good setup for a while. I liked the Codes just fine, but there is a lot of lever throw for my preference. I've been able to shorten the throw of the brakes, but it would inevitably reset back to normal after a few rides. I wanted more power and shorter throw. I'd heard of Magura's performance for a few years, and decided to try the MT7's. The power was awesome. Lever throw was good enough for me, and I was happy for a few years. Despite good performance, I never liked the lever though, seemed like it was bolted on with wood screws and the pad contact adjust was basically worthless to me. But it worked, with great power and no hiccups.
Then earlier this year one of my levers just lots a ton of fluid, the bladder went bad. I tried to get parts for it, but nothing was available, and I was stuck looking for a whole replacement lever. I'd heard of someone putting Shimano levers on Magura's, and I looked into it a bit, a friend from the area recommended it, and so I went for it. I couldn't even get SLX or XT levers due to the earlier mentioned Covid parts difficulty. So why not try something new with the most expensive option? Sigh. I got the 9120 version of the XTR lever as it says it is made for four pistons and has more power, and a few new features like the bar brace that I thought made sense.
I cut the Magura line at the lever, put those levers in a box. I used Shimano olives and barbs and the Shimano threaded nut that goes over the hose. Everything went together and seemed to fit right. I bled the system and it worked. I was hoping this was the case, but it still surprised me. Then I rode it, and HOLY COW the power. The brakes are even more powerful than before, and the throw is the shortest I've ever used. They don't even drag, I'm kinda stunned, but also happy. I love how they work. And the Shimano lever seems about 1000 times higher quality too.
If anyone else is interested, it worked just fine for me, and I'm sure it isn't recommended by anyone officially, but boy does it work well out on the trails. So much so that I downsized rotors, which I've never done before.
Is it possible to use shimano everything except the caliper
Is it possible to use shimano everything except the caliper
Yes, it is. What I know now is that the little o-rings are easily damaged on the banjo/caliper interface, so be careful to not twist those under tension.
Sounds correct, thats the combination I used on several Shigura setups.
In case you can get Bionol from Trickstuff or the Plutoline 2.5 as brake fluid I would recommend using that instead of Magura or Shimano fluid. Especially the Plutoline is a lot thinner and works better with the shimano levers. As they still sometimes have issues.
Did the same to my MT5 two weeks ago, because of some ongoing problems with the Maguras. I had Saint levers around and just went for it. Due to only having Magura spare parts around I used the Magura oil, pin and olive. After two bigger days on them it seems like they are holding up great, no leaking.
From what I read online you can get them running in all spare part constellations as long as you are cutting the brake hose straight and apply some pressure at the hose when screwing the connector nut into the lever.
Btw best decision ever swapping to Shimano levers. Already thinking about upgrading my MT7 as well.
Anyone else has the problem that the pistons always end up coming out unevenly and on side of the pads rubs on the disc? It could also be that I exacerbated this problem by running my pads all the way down. Or its because of the heavy strain by mainly using them on long descents on the ebike (but I'm a relatively light rider).
Yeah. Do not run your pads all the way down.
There’s a reason it says that in the manual.
Will also happen if you used sintered pads
What is the spring shaped like? Sram had a problem where they had the link between the two sides below the pad retention screw, making basically a spacer. They then moved to a v shaped link going over the screw to release this limitation.
They don’t use a spring
Pistons are magnetic so the pad always stay on them.
Magura’s gave a very fine gap between pads and rotor so any marginal misalignment (often due to mounts not be faced) will also lead to problems down the line
Ah. That small gap is also where the power comes from...
I also get this problem before the pads are heavily worn. But maybe I damaged the quad ring by doing it idk. I had this with two calipers and I'm running the thicker HS2 sram disc which might be also a factor.
There’s a good chance your calliper is not perfectly aligned… or it could just need a really good bleed and clean.
Magura’s need careful setup to get the best results.
Had that on my Shigura Setup and also von my current Hope T4V4. Mainly due to dirt & grime.
From time to time I mobilize all pistons of my brakes seperatly. Means pushing only one piston out, cleaning and lubing it. Then pushing it in and out for a couple of times.
Afterwards everything works fine.
Plus never wear your pads down to much on a Shigura Setup as the Shimano Lever doesn't have enough oil volume which should result in a pretty bad bite point and probably damaging something.
As stated before it's actually a recommendation by Magura not to let your pads wear too much.
Nothing to do with oil volume... If it was an issue of volume in your lever, you'd have problems from day one. The volume doesn't change with pad wear unless you have a leak.
Magura.com: "Check the thickness of the brake pad: The combined thickness of the pad and the carrier plate must not be less than 2.5 mm. You can use the MAGURA transport device to test this (see the Manual)."
I also mobilized the pistons many times but that only helped until I did a steep and long alpine descent. It seems to correspond to high load scenarios like brake heavy alpine descends, ebike etc.
Thought I might leave this here. I made some longer levers for XT/Saint brakes. 25% longer than stock. So in theory there is about 25% more power at the same lever force or the same power at 25% less lever force. I am running the lever with a magura caliper and 220 front rotor. The power is pretty insane. I have a buddy running this lever on a saint, and he also is enjoying the extra power. I mainly made this because I ride significantly better when my hands are fresh and I know I can slow down.
*Ignore the beat lever
What about lever throw?
It increases, but the bite point is so abrupt on the stock lever a little more throw is not the end of the world for me. The feel of the lever definitely changes, its feels closer to a Hayes or Hope v4. My buddy who uses the hope v4 brakes hopped on the bike with the saint/long lever and said he needed few runs to get used to the extra power (Same rotor size between bikes).
You might have better luck pairing the MT4100 levers without servowave to the Magura caliper. Longer lever, no servowave so no abrupt braking feel.
I was looking for more power. The servo wave I believe shortens the throw, so paired with a longer lever, it should be somewhat ideal. At least in my mind.
Hey guys. Wondering if anyone can help. I seem to have an issue with the banjo 90 degree connection to the mt7 caliper. When I squeeze the brake lever hard (Shimano m8100 lever) you can see a little weep of fluid passing the banjo seal. I've changed the brake hose and banjo connection a few times but it always seems to be happening. I was alerted that there might be an issue when I found my front pads contaminated and think this is where it has come from.
Sounds like one of your banjo seals (o rings) has failed.
start be replacing those and be careful not to nick or pinch them when you install.
I think you can buy them separately.
I tried this already, I replaced the banjo, seal and bolt entirely, but the same thing seemed to be happening, left me wondering if it's possible to overload the seal under heavy braking (for example)
Did you check for any sharp edges on the caliper?
You could insert a grub screw instead of the Banjo screw and carefully use a file to get any edges imperfections flat.
Buddy of mine had a similar problem and that was our quick fix for it. Altough he also had a lot of problems with the Magura lines in generell as he had 4 or 5 lines where the hose wasn't pressed correctly into the banjo.
And don’t forget Magura have a 5 year leak proof guarantee. Just send them the full system and they’ll sort you out.
If you were in the UK and I still worked for Magura, i could’ve easily sent you a new calliper. We had a lot of them… all of the issues (95% due to the end user) were lever/master related.
Just placed an order for 2, 2 piston calipers for my Xtr race levers and excited to get them out on the trail. I saw the list of what you need but is it advised not to use Shimano tubing? I have a bunch of those laying around and was hoping those would work as well.
Redline Like Water is my go to brake fluid.
Not entirely specific to the Shigura setup but I have some MT7 Racelines I'm about to put on a bike and setup and I seem to be missing the Rubber brake line cover that goes over the nut at the master cylinder. Can anyone direct me to one or the proper name or part number to search because I am not finding much.
https://www.totalbleedsolutions.co.uk/products/genuine-magura-tubing-co…
AWESOME!! I have been searching for two days, off and on, for that.
Greatly appreciated.
Is it possible to use shimano everything except the caliper
Yes, it is. What I know now is that the little o-rings are easily damaged on the banjo/caliper interface, so be careful to not twist those under tension.
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