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The thing that people miss about the lockout/FA efficiency thing is that it's not just about efficiency but power production. When the bike is firmer, you have more to push AGAINST. Most people do power tests on their road bikes because they know it will boost their numbers. The longer the interval, the easier it is to do on the MTB vs the road bike, but those shorter harder efforts are generally considered easier on the road bike. Most people I know do vo2 max intervals on their road bike basically for vanity. But there is an argument it's actually...

Wait… does no one ever standup when climbing their bikes? Maybe thats why I like lockout so much.

They’re already on SRAM I have a feeling they’ll be running RockShox next season instead..?

(Remember when Willy Wonka sent candy over radio? I'm kinda hoping to learn that telemeatery is sending meat.) Well technically cell phones and WiFi both are radio waves. So wouldn't "sending meat over radio just be a dick pic?

The important part for all of us to remeber is that its all just individual opinion, about adults playing on bikes in the woods, none of it means anything really. We dont have all the info, we dont know exactly whats being tested and ridden, or how, why or if it even works, we are just guessing. Its cool stuff, thats really the end of it.

I love Enduro MTB's tests. Having real data to their opinions is always helpful. However, the always do something odd in the testing that kind of makes me wonder why they did what they did. For instance, on their chart showing brake performance they decided to use sinter/metallic pads for all the brakes except for the Mavens and TRP. The fact that the Mavens were as powerful as they were with organic pads leads me to believe that they actually might be the strongest brake out there on the market currently. Not to derail this thread on another brake discussion...

Ask your mom, OOOHHHHHHHHHHHHH! . . . . . Sorry, I couldn't resist

I'd compare difficulty of installing fork bushings to that of machining and building an engine block. Sure the local dealer says they can do it. But I would only trust the factory that does it day in day out. It takes LOTS of special tools and gauges to do it right. Get the damper, service the fork. Don't worry about bushings.