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i use the motorex 2000. works great.

The only high temperature place on our bikes are the brake rotors and calipers. Shocks get warm, but it's not much. The loads also aren't really that high too. The grease is there mainly to prolong the bearing life by preventing water and crud ingress. That's what kills bearings on MTBs (and in fact most bearings in general). I use FETT 2000 only because I bought it a while ago on Bike-Components together with my order, because I couldn't be arsed to look for something in different stores. I clicked and I bought it. When using it I generally coat...

Also I forgot to mention. The FETT 2000/Bike Grease 2000 is crazy expensive in the US (not sure about in Brazil). Theres really no reason to spend 4x the money on grease for a bike. Any of the products people have listed will work just fine for our bikes. We're not dealing with extreme pressure, temp, shear, load etc. For me the number one selling price is the waterproof qualities and how well it stays where I want it to. BelRay for me.

Part of the equation too is what grease NOT to use. Don't use any graphite grease (the black stuff at your auto parts store) as it can lead to galvanic corrosion. I know this has been a long battled argument in the bike world, but the way I see it: if there are dozens of other great greases out there then why bother with the graphite stuff, whether it causes corrosion or not. Don't use old fashioned Valvoline axle grease because it'll wash right out of the areas you put it. I personally am not a fan of the white...

Anything but that park green stank pit head down to the local boat store and get you some of that good good super waterproof marine grease. Works every time... nice thick red auto grease works wonders as well. *unless suspension, use sram butter // slick honey

I have also always used the PM600, so far I am satisfied and do not dare to switch to something else. In any case, to find out for sure, you need to try.

After a quick look at the specs, FETT2000 appears to be waterproof but has a lower drop point than PM600. (It will drop the oil out of the soap base at high temperatures before the PM600 will.) I don't know that drop point is all that important in MTB use, since we're talking about temperatures in excess of 140 Celcius before it happens. PM600 is called "water-resistant," which means it is less suitable to water incursion. (Again, not a big deal in MTB, unless you ride through streams where the BB and axles are submerged.) I think either grease is...

Have you checked your hub? If the end caps or bearing preload is loose tightening the axle won’t help with the play and noise that could be coming from there.

I've worked at trek dealers for the last 3 years. The newer alloy fuel ex bikes are an absolute joke of noise. Trek ships the bikes with all the pivot hardware as dry as humanly possible. Worked on one last week that had so many noises. My best advice is to take apart all the pivot hardware, pull the bolts, clean them and the bearing surfaces, and then thoroughly regrease them, pay special attention to the bottom of the bolt heads where they touch the metal of the frame. Any part that is metal touching metal should be greased. The...

Sounds like you need a new rear axle. I've had a "MAXLE" do that, stopped holding properly and quick release bit would flop around. That was on a bike with one piece rear, if your bike has pivot there then it's probably very sketchy. You shouldn't have to put thread lock on your axle.

Fair enough, you could look at the wheel, but perhaps it's the cassette? Is it SRAM? I had a really annoying creak once on a bike, would get worse the smaller the cog I was in. After much pulling parts off my bike apart, cleaning and greasing stuff, I finally figured out it was the pins that connect the machined part of the SRAM cassette to the aluminum largest cog that were creaking. Sprayed some penetrating lube on them (with cassette off the wheel of course) and creak disappeared. It's easy to diagnose now, I just hold the brakes, put...