That was kind of a dick move. Of course you've already greased it.
If there's a pinch bolt for the axle, check to make sure that it's tight and not stripped. Other wise, sound travels strangely and it could be a sound coming from somewhere else. It could be in the pedals, bottom bracket or a frame pivot. I hope that was a bit more helpful.
That was kind of a dick move. Of course you've already greased it.
If there's a pinch bolt for the axle, check to make sure that...
That was kind of a dick move. Of course you've already greased it.
If there's a pinch bolt for the axle, check to make sure that it's tight and not stripped. Other wise, sound travels strangely and it could be a sound coming from somewhere else. It could be in the pedals, bottom bracket or a frame pivot. I hope that was a bit more helpful.
Almost sure it is on rear axle. The more I tight It less noise it makes, but the noise doesn't stop. I'll check the pitch bolt. Any Idea of how tight it should be Nm ou lbs?
I'm not sure of the specific Nm number, but good and tight without leaning on it too hard. It could also be in the rear hub. If a cartridge bearing is bad in the hub it could cause your creak and would likely lessen when tightened.
X2 on the hub bearings. Mine are going out and the first thing I noticed was the noise. It isn't obnoxiously loud, but it sounds like rocks grinding together.
I'm not sure of the specific Nm number, but good and tight without leaning on it too hard. It could also be in the rear hub...
I'm not sure of the specific Nm number, but good and tight without leaning on it too hard. It could also be in the rear hub. If a cartridge bearing is bad in the hub it could cause your creak and would likely lessen when tightened.
I have watched it a little more and I guess its not on the rear hub. It seems to be something conserning the superior rear triangle leg. Whenever I take the axle off it gets a little loose. I need to tight it, loose it and tight it again then it seems to get good. The superior triangle leg seem to get in place or something like that. I'm gonna try to service the hanger, since it is the axle and the rear triangle basis.
X2 on the hub bearings. Mine are going out and the first thing I noticed was the noise. It isn't obnoxiously loud, but it sounds like...
X2 on the hub bearings. Mine are going out and the first thing I noticed was the noise. It isn't obnoxiously loud, but it sounds like rocks grinding together.
Wish were that easy, man. But seems to be something concerning the rear triangle and the axle, as I said o Big Bird
Well it's a Trek, so you have that ABP suspension where the seat and chain stay pivot at the rear axle?
I've never worked on a Trek, but I would be pulling it all apart and checking it. A bit of googling and it seems you have bearing on the outside of the chain stay on both sides, you should check that for pitting/play/corrosion.
Well it's a Trek, so you have that ABP suspension where the seat and chain stay pivot at the rear axle?
I've never worked on a...
Well it's a Trek, so you have that ABP suspension where the seat and chain stay pivot at the rear axle?
I've never worked on a Trek, but I would be pulling it all apart and checking it. A bit of googling and it seems you have bearing on the outside of the chain stay on both sides, you should check that for pitting/play/corrosion.
Then as Big Bird said, grease is your friend, but depending on the age of the bike you should maybe just replace them?
It's Fuel Ex 2018. Not that old. Anyway, I've already replaced the bearings and the issue still seems to be on the right side of the rear triangle. Something seems not to be 100% in place. I'll service it all again and check it
Fair enough, you could look at the wheel, but perhaps it's the cassette? Is it SRAM? I had a really annoying creak once on a bike, would get worse the smaller the cog I was in. After much pulling parts off my bike apart, cleaning and greasing stuff, I finally figured out it was the pins that connect the machined part of the SRAM cassette to the aluminum largest cog that were creaking. Sprayed some penetrating lube on them (with cassette off the wheel of course) and creak disappeared.
It's easy to diagnose now, I just hold the brakes, put it in one the smallest cogs and apply pressure to the pedal to torque the cassette up and it will creak if its too dry.
Fair enough, you could look at the wheel, but perhaps it's the cassette? Is it SRAM? I had a really annoying creak once on a bike...
Fair enough, you could look at the wheel, but perhaps it's the cassette? Is it SRAM? I had a really annoying creak once on a bike, would get worse the smaller the cog I was in. After much pulling parts off my bike apart, cleaning and greasing stuff, I finally figured out it was the pins that connect the machined part of the SRAM cassette to the aluminum largest cog that were creaking. Sprayed some penetrating lube on them (with cassette off the wheel of course) and creak disappeared.
It's easy to diagnose now, I just hold the brakes, put it in one the smallest cogs and apply pressure to the pedal to torque the cassette up and it will creak if its too dry.
Hey bob,
I gave a 25km ride yesterday just to see how the annoying noise was and I realize that the rear axle pin bolt was getting loosen as far as I was getting. Really weird. Had never seen that happen all bikes I've had...
Now I put some thread lock on it and let's see how it goes.
About the cassete, I don't think it has something to do on this case, because the superior leg of the rear triangle on the right side show a little play when the noise starts to get more loud and frequent and it stops whenever the rear axle gets tight. I'm afraid only to get it too tight... You got a nice tip there though. I'll keep that
I've had a "MAXLE" do that, stopped holding properly and quick release bit would flop around. That was on a bike with one piece rear, if your bike has pivot there then it's probably very sketchy. You shouldn't have to put thread lock on your axle.
Sounds like you need a new rear axle.
I've had a "MAXLE" do that, stopped holding properly and quick release bit would flop around. That was...
Sounds like you need a new rear axle.
I've had a "MAXLE" do that, stopped holding properly and quick release bit would flop around. That was on a bike with one piece rear, if your bike has pivot there then it's probably very sketchy. You shouldn't have to put thread lock on your axle.
Yep, probably new rear axle is the best solution. However, it's not easy to find this replacement part here around.
I'm trying the thread lock on the little bolt we have in the rear axle only, but its just while I look for new one
I've worked at trek dealers for the last 3 years. The newer alloy fuel ex bikes are an absolute joke of noise. Trek ships the bikes with all the pivot hardware as dry as humanly possible. Worked on one last week that had so many noises.
My best advice is to take apart all the pivot hardware, pull the bolts, clean them and the bearing surfaces, and then thoroughly regrease them, pay special attention to the bottom of the bolt heads where they touch the metal of the frame. Any part that is metal touching metal should be greased. The main abp bolt that attaches the chain stay to the seat tube is known for causing some of the weirdest noises I've heard. The noises can travel through the chain stay to the rear wheel and make it sound like the hub or axle. For a while our assembly department didn't check pivot bolts on the fuel exs we got, (why would you on a brand new bike) and 90% of them came back within a month with creaking or other noises. Customers descriptions would range from "my chain makes noise" to "I think my hub is broken" and almost every time a quick re-grease of pivot hardware would fix it.
I can't guarantee you that's the issue, but I'd highly recommend it regardless. The trek abp rear axles are pretty bad, and have been blamed for many a noise, but if they're tight they're rarely the issue. I have one on my ticket s frame. I have to check it every ride to make sure it's tight, and I check the smaller, inside bolt that hold the quick release lever every couple of rides. At this point I don't use the quick release lever. I leave it in the tight position all the time and thread it in till it's tight, then just push it counter clockwise to loosen it. I never actually 'flip' the quick release.
Have you checked your hub? If the end caps or bearing preload is loose tightening the axle won’t help with the play and noise that could be coming from there.
I've worked at trek dealers for the last 3 years. The newer alloy fuel ex bikes are an absolute joke of noise. Trek ships the bikes...
I've worked at trek dealers for the last 3 years. The newer alloy fuel ex bikes are an absolute joke of noise. Trek ships the bikes with all the pivot hardware as dry as humanly possible. Worked on one last week that had so many noises.
My best advice is to take apart all the pivot hardware, pull the bolts, clean them and the bearing surfaces, and then thoroughly regrease them, pay special attention to the bottom of the bolt heads where they touch the metal of the frame. Any part that is metal touching metal should be greased. The main abp bolt that attaches the chain stay to the seat tube is known for causing some of the weirdest noises I've heard. The noises can travel through the chain stay to the rear wheel and make it sound like the hub or axle. For a while our assembly department didn't check pivot bolts on the fuel exs we got, (why would you on a brand new bike) and 90% of them came back within a month with creaking or other noises. Customers descriptions would range from "my chain makes noise" to "I think my hub is broken" and almost every time a quick re-grease of pivot hardware would fix it.
I can't guarantee you that's the issue, but I'd highly recommend it regardless. The trek abp rear axles are pretty bad, and have been blamed for many a noise, but if they're tight they're rarely the issue. I have one on my ticket s frame. I have to check it every ride to make sure it's tight, and I check the smaller, inside bolt that hold the quick release lever every couple of rides. At this point I don't use the quick release lever. I leave it in the tight position all the time and thread it in till it's tight, then just push it counter clockwise to loosen it. I never actually 'flip' the quick release.
Moosey,
I guess the situation here is something like you described. I serviced all the frame and bearings. Except for those bearings on the main pivot, but all others are servicer or were replaced. All parts metal touching metal were greased and the bolts are properly with thread lock.
While the situation concerning my rear axle, I guess its pretty much same as yours. I have to get it really tight and dont use the quick release lever. To open or get it tight I have pushed it clock or counter clockwise.
Now, I´m gonna try some medium thread lock on the small thread that holds the quick release lever. Lets see how it goes
Have you checked your hub? If the end caps or bearing preload is loose tightening the axle won’t help with the play and noise that could...
Have you checked your hub? If the end caps or bearing preload is loose tightening the axle won’t help with the play and noise that could be coming from there.
Put together, the end cap is litle loose. It is not getting fixed. Should I buy a new one?
If there's a pinch bolt for the axle, check to make sure that it's tight and not stripped. Other wise, sound travels strangely and it could be a sound coming from somewhere else. It could be in the pedals, bottom bracket or a frame pivot. I hope that was a bit more helpful.
Thx
Reall weird situation...
I've never worked on a Trek, but I would be pulling it all apart and checking it. A bit of googling and it seems you have bearing on the outside of the chain stay on both sides, you should check that for pitting/play/corrosion.
image
Then as Big Bird said, grease is your friend, but depending on the age of the bike you should maybe just replace them?
It's easy to diagnose now, I just hold the brakes, put it in one the smallest cogs and apply pressure to the pedal to torque the cassette up and it will creak if its too dry.
I gave a 25km ride yesterday just to see how the annoying noise was and I realize that the rear axle pin bolt was getting loosen as far as I was getting. Really weird. Had never seen that happen all bikes I've had...
Now I put some thread lock on it and let's see how it goes.
About the cassete, I don't think it has something to do on this case, because the superior leg of the rear triangle on the right side show a little play when the noise starts to get more loud and frequent and it stops whenever the rear axle gets tight. I'm afraid only to get it too tight... You got a nice tip there though. I'll keep that
Regards
I've had a "MAXLE" do that, stopped holding properly and quick release bit would flop around. That was on a bike with one piece rear, if your bike has pivot there then it's probably very sketchy. You shouldn't have to put thread lock on your axle.
I'm trying the thread lock on the little bolt we have in the rear axle only, but its just while I look for new one
My best advice is to take apart all the pivot hardware, pull the bolts, clean them and the bearing surfaces, and then thoroughly regrease them, pay special attention to the bottom of the bolt heads where they touch the metal of the frame. Any part that is metal touching metal should be greased. The main abp bolt that attaches the chain stay to the seat tube is known for causing some of the weirdest noises I've heard. The noises can travel through the chain stay to the rear wheel and make it sound like the hub or axle. For a while our assembly department didn't check pivot bolts on the fuel exs we got, (why would you on a brand new bike) and 90% of them came back within a month with creaking or other noises. Customers descriptions would range from "my chain makes noise" to "I think my hub is broken" and almost every time a quick re-grease of pivot hardware would fix it.
I can't guarantee you that's the issue, but I'd highly recommend it regardless. The trek abp rear axles are pretty bad, and have been blamed for many a noise, but if they're tight they're rarely the issue. I have one on my ticket s frame. I have to check it every ride to make sure it's tight, and I check the smaller, inside bolt that hold the quick release lever every couple of rides. At this point I don't use the quick release lever. I leave it in the tight position all the time and thread it in till it's tight, then just push it counter clockwise to loosen it. I never actually 'flip' the quick release.
I guess the situation here is something like you described. I serviced all the frame and bearings. Except for those bearings on the main pivot, but all others are servicer or were replaced. All parts metal touching metal were greased and the bolts are properly with thread lock.
While the situation concerning my rear axle, I guess its pretty much same as yours. I have to get it really tight and dont use the quick release lever. To open or get it tight I have pushed it clock or counter clockwise.
Now, I´m gonna try some medium thread lock on the small thread that holds the quick release lever. Lets see how it goes
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