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Have you checked the torque on the hose nut? I've had that be the cause of that behavior on various brakes in the past. Refer to the "Dumb Bike Problems" thread... it's more than you think, but you should use a torque wrench because it is possible to crack the nut or hose olive if you go too far.
Yeah I would start looking at the connections at MC if there's something wrong, I for one have managed to install olive or two crooked.
have you checked torque on the banjo? There have been some comments similar to yours almost exactly and a few have found the cause to be loose banjo
It is really hard to get all of the air out of the maxima mineral oil with how thick it is. If you airate the mineral oil when you pull it into the syringe, you're almost guaranteed to have micro bubbles in it that are impossible to deal with. I am really deliberate about letting the syringes sit for 30 minute after filling them to let the air fully come out of the fluid. Also advisable to lubricate the plungers on your bleed syringes before you start so you don't have to yank them super fast to break the stiction when filling the syringes up.
For this reason, I do have a better success rate bleeding maven's with a bleed cup vs two syringes. Between the risk of pulling too much vacuum and pulling air past the syringe o-rings and air bubbles trapped in the mineral oil, the bleed cup is way easier. I'm about 80% successful in bleeding maven brakes on a 1 and done method. 1/5 times, I need to do at least a secondary lever bleed to get some air bubbles that come out on the first ride, or after the brakes have sat over night.
My red splatter Mavens were like this, every 3 months on the dot. I replaced pretty much every part but the pistons and seals and nothing helped. Changed to the teal splatter and they've been flawless for going on 9+ months. I have no explanation or helpful input, just commiserating
What helped me in the same situation is to overtighten the caliper bolts way past their stated torque setting.
Also, check if the hoses are tightly screwed in.
(Based on my experience with A1 Red splatter and A1 regular ultimate)
Which bleed cup fits?
Ezmtb like this one
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EGq0nVy
Pinner Machine Shop also makes an adapter for the Shimano bleed cup to fit on SRAM mineral oil brakes. Once you have the adapter, you can use the fancy billet aluminum Pinner bleed cup or a standard white plastic Shimano cup.
The adapter is only $13 USD. Worth it's weight in gold: https://pinnermachineshop.com/en-us/products/bleed-cup-adapter?variant=41552493150305
I agree with others about the efficacy of the lever bleed method to get any tricky air bubbles out of a Maven bleed, especially when they emerge over the course of a ride or two after a bleed. I've found a lot of luck doing the overnight lever ziptie/bleed cup method as a way to get any final air bubbles out. And I agree that there's something going on with the SRAM bleed kit, the Maven architecture, or Maxima's mineral oil that makes it really hard to get a consistent air-free bleed. Maybe it's all three.
The SRAM Maven/Motive/DB lever fitting is M4 threads. The Shimano bleed cup thread is M5. I use the Park Tool fitting adapter (part 2600A, $6 each) included in their mineral bleed kit to go between the two.
I also use the M5 adapter w/ the bleed cup for Shimano brakes because the plastic bleed cup threads wear out really fast when you are bleeding multiple brakes per day.
I spent about 2 1/2 hours installing 1 maven caliper/lever and bleeding the other on a DH bike because I really wanted to get it right the first time. Will see what they say when they ride it. The lever had to be replaced because it seems like someone installed the olive backwards, I couldn't get the hose out of the lever even with pliers/twisting and the compression nut had been overtightened and turned oval.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment