Latest Product Reviews

Not as grippy as rubber grips, but not bad.
They only last me 4 weeks, they become too soft and lose the shock absorption, and at that point, they are torture to ride, so they are expensive in long term. In the In the winter I use 2.1 Suomi Gazza Extreme studded tyres with 4psi higher pressure than my summer setup with Maxxis 2.3 tyres, which becomes torture to ride with once the grips lose the shock absorption feature, first comes the loss of shock absorption then the grip becomes more fragile and gets ripped apart easier and easier, then they begin to spin slowly, but this happens over the course of many weeks, with higher volume tyres I could ride them for bit longer, but not with my current winter setup, it's torture, so I had to swap to fresh grips every 4th week, which cost way too much. even though the too soft grip is not as noticeable with bigger tyre volume this is not acceptable for me.
Birds can damage the grips like here, after riding with them more than a week after the bird attacking them there are holes so deep I can see the handlebar, so if you crash hard you will rip the grips part.
The end caps are junk, you can replace them with proper alloy end caps instead.

Sometimes the chain links can spin, and overlap, result in the tool not wanting to close, but it will close but that's not optimal to jam the tool closed with chainlinks overlapping. Not a big deal, just make sure the links are not overlapping before closing it.
The tyrelever will obviously scratch the rim as it's aluminium.

Durability? Wait and see. Only came with one pair of laces, they used to include extras.

After few years I lost power, and the bike shop bleeding the brakes, did not help, I was braking hard and brake barely braked., and the lever blade was slow to return, so it was probably a internal issue, the piston assembly probably needed to be replaced.
No hinge to quickly swap brakes.
No
can't take the brake pads out from the top.
usses toxic, paint eating, DOT fluid, it's bad for your skin and eyes.

The bolt got rounded off when I tried to undo the bolt, it had to be drilled out. This is not the only product from Race Face I had issues with bolts, the bolts on 4 of the Race Face Turbine dropper posts got quite worn quite fast too. Similar to the Atlas stem bolts loosened quite fast, but I haven’t ridden with this stem so hard, so I can’t really compare how this stem do with hard riding compared to Atlas. But both are robust stems, that handle MTB well.

I had issues with the bolts loosening, and the Loctite 243 disappearing, I’m not sure why, but maybe I am pushing the stem to extremes with the temperature changes, and the Loctite gets worn off, most of the traces were gone. I had to check before, during and after the ride to make sure it was secure, other wise I would risk the bars spinning, which happen several times, and when getting the bike out from room stem home to outdoors in -10C this was not the case with Renthal apex 35 stem as long as I used Loctite 243, the only times I made it loosen was without Loctite or not cured with big temperature change, I have tested this on the Apex stem I Intentionally Did not put Loctite 243 with the Apex them the stem spun on the steerer, at a day with rapid temp change, it got to 25C, but it did not other places where it had Loctite on. I also experienced this in the winter when I just installed it and Loctite did not cure. But with The Atlas Stem it would happen even with Loctite cured, It did not handle this well even with Loctite 243. So loose headset was common issue even with Chris King headset. can’t know if it’s a combination of the materials used in bolts, stem, or and the clamp design, but the difference was huge. The Atlas Stem is made of 6061-T6 aluminum. I haven’t tried changing the bolts yet, So I haven’t tried Titanium bolts, I don’t know how much it will effect the issues I experienced. I know many are satisfied with this stem, But they might not be using it to the extremes I am, with the temp changes. The bolts don't have great tolerances in the head, and the they wear a lot, so eventually they looked quite worn but not worn out, but they did not wear out, so there will be some play between the hex key, but nothing huge, I had the same experience with all other Race Face Bolts, on Turbine Dropper, Atlas Cranks, but the bolts on all of the dropper posts got worn out eventually, as I had to tighten them more often, so they were so bad I would need to replace them, but I replaced dropper posts, and same thing happen, but I had to return them and get refund due to other issues. Not for ”weight wienies”, 9 grams heavier than the Renthal Apex, it’s quite a noticeable difference, when I hold them, but not a a huge difference, but it all adds up.

No complaints about the inserts.
but the here is what I have to say about the valves
The valve can get clogged completely, and it's impossible to clean it if it gets that bad with using just pick set.
so you need a latex removal solution. it would be nice if it had hex hey hole at the bottom for easy cleaning and make securing the valve easier. But I've not tried drilling a hole at the bottom.
sometimes the cap can get stuck and you might need pliers to ride, even if you have tightened it only by hand.
The valve cover can get stuck and you might need pliers to remove it, but it can loosen and you can loose it, I am not sure if I lost one due to this or if I lost it somewhere at home, but grooves to grip it would be nice. so a nut shaped cap might be good idea, but not really an issue if you got pliers, I got Wolf Tooth Pack pliers, which could do the job if you have enough strength in the fingers to hold it. So not really an issue for me, but this could happen not any valve cap.
because there are no grooves on the cap this makes it harder to unthread.

The valve can get clogged completely, and it's impossible to clean it if it gets that bad with using just pick set.
so you need a latex removal solution. it would be nice if it had hex hey hole at the bottom for easy cleaning and make securing the valve easier. But I've not tried drilling a hole at the bottom.
sometimes the cap can get stuck and you might need pliers to ride, even if you have tightened it only by hand.
The valve cover can get stuck and you might need pliers to remove it, but it can loosen and you can loose it, I am not sure if I lost one due to this or if I lost it somewhere at home, but grooves to grip it would be nice. so a nut shaped cap might be good idea, but not really an issue if you got pliers, I got Wolf Tooth Pack pliers, which could do the job if you have enough strength in the fingers to hold it. So not really an issue for me, but this could happen not any valve cap.
because there are no grooves on the cap this makes it harder to unthread.

Loses grip when leaning bike over on dirt, possibly due to the firm rubber, and close side and transition knobs and less sticky rubber than a lot of other options, thee tyre caused me to crash on a trail I rode many times with High Roller 2 2.30 C3 Maxxterra, without any issues, for some reason I had to swap to the wheelset with the Bontrager tyres, both on same rims, Hope Tech Enduro 29 23mm internal width.
Due to the lack of cornering grip I could no continue to use these tyres.
It's quite heavy at 1010 grams for one tyre its quite heavy, but the higher weight is unavoidable with thicker & stronger tyres. but not unusual for a enduro tyre.
But in 2021 I tried Michhelin WInd Enduro which were even better cornering, and had more stability than any of these, but they are heavier, but peerform much better.