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Top tip: stay 1 number of gears less than the current maximum. I rode 10speed 11-36 cassettes until 2 years ago, now on 11speed 10-42 (removed a 12speed group that came with my bike, it was absolutely trash SRAM nx). Other than tyres, these are the most frequently replaced parts, staying 1 gear behind saves you massive amounts of money, and quite a bit of weight/dollar. Also other than matching shifter + cassette, you can mix and match all other components (i.e. chainring, chain and cassette) with little to no performance impact. Overall bike weight does not matter much, but cassette weight in particular can really help a bike feel more playful.
Furthermore: shorter derailleurs hit less rocks, smaller chainrings also, I had never topped out my 30 tooth chainring on a trail.
There are almost only advantages to riding smaller cassettes if you have the fitness to get up steep hills in tough gears.
Upgeraditis is real folks, talk to your doctor about it.
I'm tempted to put a Secus on my 36, but it's 96% dialled, so maybe I just suffer once in a while for a few minutes at a time? If I get a new bike, then it makes sense.
as for what's inside the can, no idea on that one.
One guess is some sort of IFP that bottoms out partway through the travel, so the negative chamber volume is effectively reduced to increase support. Setup manual talks about pressing some button "Midstroke support valve" so would make sense to be equalizing the 2 chambers? I have no idea really. I see some small humps in the spring curve, dunno if that means anything.
Quick glance at installation manual, i see a new foot nut needing to be installed that has a hole in the side. maybe i'm completely wrong. i wonder if it would be so stupid if it used lower legs air volume as negative chamber volume...
I think the best solution to your problem is a good old fashioned metal spring instead of these newfangled air "springs" :D
Worst mod? Need a chairlift to use your mountain bike.
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