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Dying to know more about the Specialized low cost DHF/DHR. . . I mean Butcher and Clutch. UST compatible? Anybody compare them to the Maxxis equivalent?
Rear: Racing Ralph or NN 2.25
Here on the dry, dusty rocks of Colorado, I have been enjoying a Piranha 2.3" UST rear and Big Betty 2.4" SS front, running both on tubeless rims with sealant. I am hesitant to run anything lighter in the rear since thinner sidewalls require higher pressures which leads to less grip. Bigger single ply tires on the rear tend to fold over on all mountain rims at pressures adequate to resist pinch-flatting. I tried a Nobby Nic 2.4" on the back, and it was epic fail. Same thing on the front - they require too much pressure to not fold. Same for Racing Ralph and Big Betty 2.4" SS on the rear.
But, a lot of people around here in CO tend to care more about pedaling up and around than descending, so I see a lot of people running skinny tires at high pressures. If that's you, then my tire choices won't help you. But if you like to descend faster and push harder, BB front Piranha rear works for me.
But since I'm a tire whore, I'm anxious to try the Wicked Will 2.35" F & R, and the UST 2.35" Slant 6 when it comes out.
Pacific Northwest
Clay, loam, roots, rocks
Schwalbe
2.4 Rocket Ron's F/R (fast)
or
2.4 Nobby Nic's F/R (traction in dirt)
or
2.4 Big Betty F/R (tough and sticky)
18-24 PSI tooblesssss
When on smoother trails..
I'll run the Chunder in a 2.35 folding bead single ply up front and a maxxis 2.35 highroller out back. I siped the center tread block down the middle; like every 3rd center block I just added the same slot that ran down the center to make it more like a DHF as far as breaking. I was truthfully unable to notice a difference; I do still think it would help shed mud and bite in harder.
If the trails are really dry and smooth I'll throw a Kenda 2.35 small block out back, it rolls noticeably better.
my .02 cents
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