Posts
26
Joined
7/7/2022
Location
Bozeman, MT
US
Does anyone have any tricks for getting the lever reach on dhr evos to pull closer to the bar? The adjustment range seems to be from rather far out to comically far out. I tried doing a lever bleed with the reach adjust all the way in, then all the way out and winding the adjuster in, and then in the middle to see if that would change the range but it's pretty consistent. Having it wound all the way in (closest to the bar) works alright for me but I'd still prefer it a bit closer. I know there's the freedom coast levers but I'm not trying to spend $120 for levers.
The trick seems to be to buy either Oak Component or Freedom Coast lever blades unfortunately. They both work well and allow you to get the lever reach much closer to the bar, although I prefer the shape of the Oak blades.
theres no other option other than the freedom coast levers.
They are worth it.
Hey there! I just made an account to answer this
There actually is an option. You need to disassemble the lever and remove the pushrod.
This video shows how to remove the lever. Follow the procedure up until 3:00 where he unthreads the lever from the pushrod. The pushrod is secured by a little washer and a circlip that sits in a groove inside the lever. Remove the circlip to get the pushrod out. Now you can cut the thread on the pushrod a little bit further using an M4*0.7 thread cutting die. Reassemble according to instructions in reverse. You can now adjust your levers right to the bar. For more detailed questions, shoot me a message
Bravo! I was thinking this would be a solution for folks who want more adjustment. I’m fortunate that I have really long fingers and have always run levers a bit further out.
I like the look of the Freedom Coast lever shape, but I have always gotten along with the stock levers.
Awesome, thanks! Looking at the lever drawings it seemed like that was maybe an option so I was wondering if there were different pushrods you could get. The slate drawing looks like it has a longer thread which got me thinking about it. Maybe I'll give this a go when I have some time to burn.
I shot TRP this question yesterday as well and they got back to me with this:
"We do have some longer pushrods available here (9mm of thread): https://trpcycling.com/products/dh-r-evo-lever-small-parts?variant=47857680253215
We’d recommend checking your current pushrod thread length before purchasing as they may be our 7mm or 9mm depending on when they were purchased.
There is also an aftermarket company called Freedom Coast Cycling that makes CNC’d lever blades for our brakes if you need them even closer."
When you click the link it doesn't specify 7mm or 9mm pushrod so I'm guessing that the new ones are 9mm. For $10/brake it's a cheaper fix than new levers. Or tapping them further as @lugarflone suggests if you're handy / have a tap.
Threading the pushrod a bit is a nice idea, but when voiding warranties it's best to triple check your measurements. Then double check em again. 2 potential issues with this mod are both related: threading it far enough the brake doesn't fully engage as it hits the grip (bad) and/or potentially allowing the threads to hang up on the retaining washer. Saw that last one on a set of 9s ages ago. Another possible fix comes from the MX/Flat track world. You could bend the blade to fit your need. There are a number of how-to vids on bending clutch/brake levers, and it isn't a hard process, but as it's relatively easy to do it's also relatively easy to mess up. You'll need a torch of some sort, but I've used a butane unit without issue.
Whichever way you take, work slow, work smart. When you start feeling hurried is when mistakes get made.
Wow I just have been dealing with the fact they are kind of far out for my smaller fingers.
Update for anyone interested / looking into this. I got the new pushrods from trp and it works great. Now have all the lever reach adjustability I'd like. And they were pretty easy to swap out.
HI all,
@naptime, when did you purchase your DHR EVO brakes? I bought mines in december 2023. thanks in advance.
and maybe a stupid question, but to be sure, there is no need to remove the oil from the whole line to replace the push rod, right? thanks
I can't remember exactly when I got them but I think it was about 2 years ago. I did not remove any oil and was able to get it to work. But this made it more difficult because you're fighting the pressure and you have to push the piston in far enough to get the sur clip in the right spot. In instructions they just have a lever with no hose connected. This would definitely be easier, but it might work ok to just have a funnel on the bleed port.
THANKS A LOT for your kind reply Naptime!!
Adding a bit. Since the setup is quite similar to Hayes Nines, you shouldn't need to bleed to swap the pushrods out. Check below:
1. Remove the wheel and pump the brake a couple times to advance the caliper pistons.
2. Remove the lever blade from the body.
3. Remove the snap ring holding the pushrod in and remove the pushrod.
4. Install the new pushrod, reattach the lever.
5. Push the caliper pistons back into their bores.
Why do this? Simple. By advancing the caliper pistons you create a slight vacuum in the system. This should be enough to keep the MC piston from popping out and losing its seal when you remove the snap ring/old pushrod. As a token old fart, I have done this many, many times in the past with hardly any issues. If the seal does get lost, at least you know exactly where the air pocket is so it's a quick n easy bleed.
Post a reply to: TRP dhr brake questions