do you all have any tips for organizing cables on modern trail and enduro bikes that have remotes all over the place? don't say ride a rigid singlespeed coaster brake bike either haha.
1. make sure all hoses and cables are cut to almost average length of each other. for most single crown forks try steering your bike 1.5 turns to see if cables/hoses wont get pulled out from fittings.
2. look for cable wrap from electrical/electronics store can also provide extra protection or just zip ties.
3. color code or color match with frame/handle bar color so cables/hose will blend with frame color. & Bike Bling +1
4. sorry but get 1x10 setup with 34 crank, 11-36 casette & forks/shock without remote lock, learn to tune it properly and compromise with fitness, less things to worry about in the long run. if your in the heat of racing you will forget about it anyway. always safer to climb squishy bike than to descend with stiff bike.
from what i understand about enduro is to make your bike mechanically reliable after you get fit.
Like PaucH said, if you cut your cables and hoses so that they are all around the same length it helps a lot in keeping your bars looking clean. I try to keep cables so that they run parallel from the shifter/brake lever/remote into their guides in the frame.
I also run a 1x10 setup with a dropper. No lockouts or CTD remotes, so it stays pretty clean.
amen to that. i do the same. no CTD or lock out remotes either - three cables total. super clean. keeps the complete bike weight down too. like PaucH said above, if you're racing you wont realize anyway.
[img]https://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/forums/2013/05/14/585/s1200_P4120085.jpg[/img]
I used a heat shink tube just like Moga. Works great and looks clean.
I used a heat shink tube just like Moga. Works great and looks clean.
I really want to use the heat shrink tube but it's gonna be a lot of work that's why I ended up using an electrical tape.
Not as clean as the heat shrink tube but does the job ok.
I'm running 2x9 set-up. I combined the front derailleur and dropper post cables then the rear derailleur and the rear brake hose.
Tips
Just be creative in using your cable mounts and arrangement of your cables.
No need to use all cable mounts.
You can bundle your cables with ziptie. Just don't lock it too tight.
2. look for cable wrap from electrical/electronics store can also provide extra protection or just zip ties.
3. color code or color match with frame/handle bar color so cables/hose will blend with frame color. & Bike Bling +1
4. sorry but get 1x10 setup with 34 crank, 11-36 casette & forks/shock without remote lock, learn to tune it properly and compromise with fitness, less things to worry about in the long run. if your in the heat of racing you will forget about it anyway. always safer to climb squishy bike than to descend with stiff bike.
from what i understand about enduro is to make your bike mechanically reliable after you get fit.
Goodluck...
I also run a 1x10 setup with a dropper. No lockouts or CTD remotes, so it stays pretty clean.
Black tape for black cables, etc.
Black cables for black frames help camouflage the cables a bit.
P
Also, the underside remote mount for the reverb is pretty slick.
I don't quite understand the need for remote changing of CTD settings. I haven't ever really found the need for high speed changes on the fly.
Any other cables needing love get cut to size, and I will even throw in a zip to get them cleaner.
best advice........ shorten your cables first.
I used a heat shink tube just like Moga. Works great and looks clean.
Before
After
I really want to use the heat shrink tube but it's gonna be a lot of work that's why I ended up using an electrical tape.
Not as clean as the heat shrink tube but does the job ok.
I'm running 2x9 set-up. I combined the front derailleur and dropper post cables then the rear derailleur and the rear brake hose.
Tips
Just be creative in using your cable mounts and arrangement of your cables.
No need to use all cable mounts.
You can bundle your cables with ziptie. Just don't lock it too tight.
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