Single chainring conversion

That's entirely possible, and would leave you with just one ring up front. But kinda central to modern one by set ups is the use of a narrow wide chainring to aid in chain retention. So if you do it, you'd really want to add a chain guide to the system. It's a bit of extra weight, but not the end of the world. I've been one by with a chain guide since the original 48 tooth MRP came out back in the late 90's.

You may find that a crank upgrade will be less than you think (a quick amazon/jenson/etc) search finds SRAM NX or GX level cranks with a 32 n/w ring for $75-$90, and a $20 bb you'll probably be happier with the results. The stiffer crank/bb and n/w retention benefits being the most noticeable. Especially since you're gonna need $30-50 for a chain guide you're half way there.

That said, if you're rear derailleur doesn't have a clutch mechanism (seems plausible if your bike came with a square taper bb and riveted chainrings) you may be better off with the chainguide.

If you can make do with this configuration for a while and save your pennies you'll find that whole drivetrain groupsets are shockingly cheap these days. A full SLX set with a crank (one listing from Fibica?!? included brakes!) can be had on ebay/chainreaction for ~$300 and the SRAM NX Eagle (just announced) will have you shifting 12 speeds for under $400. I realize you said you're trying to do this on the cheap, but if you're otherwise happy with your frame and wheels, these are worthy upgrades to a pricepoint configured bike.

I rocked an old 1x9 hardtail converted from a 3x setup for years and was super stoked on it and my daily commuter is a square taper 3x crank with only the middle ring setup as a single speed. Don't feel like you _must_ spend big $$$ to have a bike you can go out an have fun on, but if you're looking to improve a bike you already love and ride often, the quality of the "bargain" level components these days shouldn't be overlooked.

The important measurements to determine whether it will fit or not are:

Eye-to-Eye measurement with the shock fully extended (center-to-center)
Stroke Travel (protip: take the spring off to measure) the extended=>compressed travel distance of the shock stroke
Bushing/Mounting Hardware Measurements: width (note: may be different at each eyelet), I.D. (bolt hole size), O.D. (bushing eyelet insertion size)

A useful diagram listing these measurements:



Whether or not a shock will fit your frame will depend on matching these measurements to your current shock.

The relevant measurement's aren't listed there, and many shocks are made in a variety of eye-to-eye and stroke configurations. Best bet is to make these measurements yourself with the shock on your bike.

Thanks B0bg. I totally forgot about the clutch derailleur. Never had one myself.

Re. the 1-x conversion, check this crankset out: https://www.srsuntour.com/collections/featured-items/products/zeron-1-x?variant=45338041742

I just finished a build and used these cranks and they're a pretty crazy value. Cranks, ring (albeit a 30T, not 32T), and BB included.

Looks like it’s a standard 68mm BSA threaded BB. The crankset I mentioned comes with a BSA BB and spacers for a 68mm BB. Looks like you’d be good to go ??

Make sure you get the right crank arm length...I noticed the SRSuntour site is out of stock on the 175mm model which is probably what's on your bike (linked description doesn't specify). Measure center-to-center spindle to pedal axle.

Regarding the bottom bracket, it looks like that Suntour crankset should work since it is using a threaded bottom bracket, commonly referred to as "English" or BSA. One important note is that the mountain bike standard is for the bottom bracket shell to be 73mm wide, and it is 68mm wide for road bikes. Same thread dimensions. If you have digital calipers see what the width of the bottom bracket is (frame only). Although the frame specs say 68mm, I'd expect it to be 73mm, and a crank designed for a mountain bike will have a spindle long enough for that. If the frame is actually 68mm, then there are bottom bracket spacers available to take up the extra room so the spindle isn't too long, effectively making it 73mm wide again.

Regarding the gear range, what is important is the size of your largest climbing gear, not the amount of speeds. Back in the day I rode a 32T front ring with a 34T as my easiest climbing gear. Ran without issue, but a few sections required some extra leg power. I'm guessing yours is either a 30 or 32 tooth back there, which isn't as easy but is doable depending on your area, and you have a smaller front chainring which helps. There aren't a lot of 8 speed cassette upgrade options available but if you have a 32T rear now, I know 34T 8 speed cassettes do exist which can make life a little better if 32T isn't enough. As a rule of thumb, getting a larger climbing gear in the rear makes things easier than getting a chainring the same amount of teeth different in the front.