Shock servicing at home

9/24/2025 1:37pm
s-master wrote:
Hi all,I am thinking about servicing super deluxe ultimate coil 2023 at home, and changing the base compression tune(from L to M or H)What are some...

Hi all,

I am thinking about servicing super deluxe ultimate coil 2023 at home, and changing the base compression tune(from L to M or H)
What are some "must have" tools, that I have to acquire?

I have access to bench with vice. I will get some aluminum inserts, and 3D printed shaft vice blocks.
Air valve tool and schrader core remover will source from aliexpress.
And IFP setting tool from handlebars and grip.

https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/rear-suspension/2023-super-deluxe-coil-service-manual.pdf

Lubricants and Oils
• Maxima PLUSH 7wt
---Any alternative, that can be bougth in smaler quantities?
• RockShox Dynamic Seal Grease
---Can I substitute for slick honey?
• Loctite 2760 Threadlocker (Red)
---Can i substitute for 271?
RockShox Tools
• RockShox IFP Removal Tool - Super Deluxe Coil
---If I understand, anything with M5 thread would work? like a long M5 bolt?
• RockShox Super Deluxe Coil Compression Tools
---mandatory? probably is. I saw, that there is also vivid tool kit, that include parts from "Coil Compression Tools" but adds few extras. For SD coil compression tool is enough?

What do I need "Guide Pin/Punch: 1.5 mm" for? Can I substitute it with a pick?

How much time should I reserve for this, if I am doing it for the first time?

tnx

Maxima plush 7wt - you can get small bottles of this pretty easily so it would be my first pick anyway. I like Motorex oils most of the time but RS shocks can be sensitive to viscosity so I probably wouldn't mess with that, especially when you are changing tune.

Slick honey is great, use it for everything

Soft jaws are crucial but you don't really need shaft clamps for an SDLX

Air valve tool is the main thing

Loctite 263 is also fine - not super critical but you can read loctites data sheets to check if they are suitable

removal tool - yeah any bolt will work, but you will probably want a syringe adapter to draw air out which will thread in there too (these are common)

Punch is just for knocking out the nylon ball - I vacuum bleed so don't need to remove this but its probably easier for hand bleeding. You can get it out in all sorts of ways, just don't damage the seat/threads (heating up a torx bit and jamming in to the plastic to unscrew works as well)

You don't need most of the RS dedicated tools - when vacuum bleeding the compressor is more of a hinderance, and you just set the IFP a couple mm shallower to compensate for the countermeasure. Or you can install the spring if you want to follow their steps without buying the tool

I would allow at least 3 hours for the first time, and don't do it the night before an event. Ideally people should give loctite an hour minimum to cure before you fill with oil so do those steps first at least. And use a torque wrench!

 

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