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I'm not familiar with mt7s but a lot of four piston brake systems are designed so that one pair of pistons actuate first for modulation and the second later for ultimate power. Might that be the case? Or are we talking about one side moves before the other, which would imply a dirty piston seal. And if you mean Caliper and not Piston then here's the deal...
With the bolts mostly in, but loose enough for the caliper to float a bit, spin the wheel and pull the brake lever Gently to stop it. Then just barely snug up the bolts. Now spin the wheel and look directly down through the caliper so you can see the gap between the rotor and pads. If the rotor is warped then that's the problem. If it's straight and rubbing at the front of the pads, loosen the front bolt a bit and move the front tab of the caliper and snug the bolt again. Repeat this front and rear until it's silent and visibly running true. Then Slowly add force to the two bolts, alternating from one to the other until they're nice and torqued to factory spec. If you crank the first one all the way tight right away it can move the caliper. Baby steps are key. This applies to most torque specific bolt systems. Like the lug nuts on your car wheels.
Thanks and do you know anywhere to get good sintered pads for the magura I’m trying to get most stopping power possible
Galfer Purple E bike pads have always been awesome for me dude. They’re semi metallic but seem to last forever!
I second this
thirds
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