EPIC - MICHAL MAROSI - SPICAK RIDE 1

Michal “Marosana” Maroši ranks amongst the best-known Czech cycling athletes, and is now a top name on the UCI World Cup circuit. After great success in the golden years of BMX racing, Michal made a substantial leap over into the world of mountain biking, winning the European Championship in Dual Slalom in 1998.

Since that time, Michal has dedicated his sporting career to raising the bar for both himself and his national team. He was the first Czech to receive an invitation to the prestigious festival of extreme sports – the Winter X-Games - and he ruled the popular Red Bull Snowmania snow race. He also raced at speeds of around 100km/h on an iced slope at the Siemens Mobile Snow King event and competed twice 1km under the ground in the Red Bull Race Down to the Middle of the Earth contest. And he also tried bungee jumping… on his bike, of course.

In 2010 he achieved several Top 10 positions during the UCI MTB World Cup rounds – including a win in Slovenia – and ranked 4th in the 4X World Cup in South Africa in 2011. Michal has also become a familiar face on the 4X Pro Tour.

Aside from competing, Michal also enjoys building tracks, sharing his experience with young riders at the Marosana DH&4X Camps. And at the close of each season, Michal organises a legendary bike racing event and huge party, and has produced several volumes of his own ‘Marosana Never Dies’ video to document the event.

Credit: Epic Mounts
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spinteck
13 years ago
The 3D needs some major adjustment, but it might look good after:
1. It has to be synchronized. You can do it by aligning the frames in post, but for cycling shots it needs to be 1/2000 of a second or better (I would do 1/10000 or better with my old cams). So that means if you shoot at 60 fps, you only have 1/60th of a second to adjust.....so it may never look good because the initial synch is out. The older go-pro 2's have full synch capabilities, but unfortunately the new ones do not.
2. The frames have to be meshed and aligned at the same angle and in a way that the -Z plane (stuff sticking out the window) doesn't hurt the eyes. This is done through experimenting or using a progam's auto align option, such as in Vegas Pro 10 or better. I still find manual alignment is best, but more time consuming.
3. You have to render in stereo friendly format (left-over-right, left-next-to-right, left-next-to-right half width OR cross-eyed. Cross-eyed is actually preferred for true stereo enthusiasts because they can view it on the screen w/out glasses by crossing their eyes.)
4. You have to attach tags in youtube that tell the player what stereo format you are using. I usually render crosseyed (right-next-to-left HALF WIDTH), so if you go to my vids I believe you can just copy/paste the tags for that format.
5. Be careful with your camera spacing (interaxial distance) and your distance from you subject. CLOSER IS NOT BETTER. You can't shoot something close with a far background (helmet against trail) and have your cameras spaced far apart and you can't point an object up close to the camers- it will not have the effect you are looking for. This is where you can shoot conservative (cams close together and stay 5 to 15 feet away) or get a focal length/interaxial chart http://www.berezin.com/3d/tech/lens_separation_in_stereo_photog.htm
6.. Have entirely too much time or desire on your hands!! 3D is a lot work, as many people are finding out. But if you have a 3D TV (I love my 800$ LG polarized 55 inch) it is well worth it IMO.