In the World cups incl world champs, Lots and lots of 'lever strapped to bar' to essentially purge the brake and keep a good solid feel..Why...
In the World cups incl world champs, Lots and lots of 'lever strapped to bar' to essentially purge the brake and keep a good solid feel..
Why is this a thing we must do? For reference Ever since I seen this years ago i've done it to all shimano/trp brakes, It gets rid of the wandering bite point for me, But i must do it every 2-3 rides.
My Mavens Once setup correctly(can be fiddly) have been fantastic. Park day after park day no worries.
When you say: "Why is this a thing we must do?" do you mean:A. "Why do our very expensive brakes suck and require creative hacks to...
When you say: "Why is this a thing we must do?" do you mean:
A. "Why do our very expensive brakes suck and require creative hacks to work?".
or B. "Why does strapping the lever down help our brakes work better?"
If you meant A, I can't tell you for sure, other than to say, either bike brake engineers lack the skill to make bike brakes perform consistently in real world conditions with real world maintenance programs, or they have the skill, but don't feel the consumer pressure to design the brakes with a priority on consistency, and instead are prioritizing looks, cost, profit margin, outright power, weight, etc...
If you meant B, we really dug into that topic of why strapping levers works starting on page 7 of this thread. Several ideas were bandied about, including some that were totally new to me, so I think it's worth going back to read it if you haven't yet. In short, the primary suggestions seemed to be the sustained pressure dissolves residual air into the oil, making it non-compressible, and/or the sustained pressure shrinks residual air bubbles down in size, making them float up through the system more readily, so they can ultimately reach the lever reservoir where they're unlikely to cause trouble, and/or the sustained hours-long pressure causes the pistons to slip through the caliper seals a bit more than normal, which resets them to a position closer to the rotor, leading to less lever throw required for full firm pad contact.
I think Im getting at both A & B, TRP & Shimano brakes feel way more consistent For a few rides After doing a few hours of strapping it to the bar.
I've ridden many 'shop bled' TRP/XT brakes on other peoples bikes and they always feel odd or inconsistent when you start getting any kind of heat into the caliper.
Mavens have a wandering point similar to XT ONLY if you dont swing off the lever with the 2 rotor or 4mm spacer massage untill the seals/pistons settle together
It's 2024, surely we can have a simple to bleed brake that is powerful and consistent.... I guess Shimano's new brake at the end of year Will tick those boxes right?Â
Aren't they pretty much Galfer Shark rotors with more holes and less shark ? And thicker. I would expect those to perform very similarly to the Sharks... Which from my opinion is pretty good. Not as cheese grater-y as the Galfer Wave, not especially noisy (unless used with Trickstuff Power+ pads, but then every single rotor on earth is super loud as far as I know). Just super expensive unless bought at a big discount if you can find them.
The wave & shark setup is pretty good - which is what im running... just dont use Resin pads on wave's, they bite hard but wear fast. I've been using  galfer purple ebike pads and they are damn good. ( my ebike setup with XT 4 pistons.)
Yeah TRP's version of the Shark. The wave & shark setup is pretty good - which is what im running... just dont use Resin pads on wave's...
Yeah TRP's version of the Shark.Â
The wave & shark setup is pretty good - which is what im running... just dont use Resin pads on wave's, they bite hard but wear fast. I've been using  galfer purple ebike pads and they are damn good. ( my ebike setup with XT 4 pistons.)
Â
I just ordered a pair of Waves to experiment with in combination with my current Sharks. Â I saw that Frameworks was running Waves front, Sharks rear. Â Is that what you're doing too, or vice versa? Â I have noticed that Sharks gobble through brake pads, I'm guessing due to the sharp laser cut holes.
I'm using the TRP S05E 203 front and rear and they are doing great (with Galfer green or Trickstuff Power+), no issue so far. The best part of them is the 2.3mm width which I was looking for (mostly for there solidity, I always bend my disk one day...).
No issue with the Trickstuff PO+ pads either, there are always been dead silent to me ?
I have to say that Trinity + S05E + Trickstuff PO+ is the golden ticket for me, absolutely tremendous breaking power, no fading even after complete days at the bike park and 8000m D-, no wandering bite point, easy to modulate, very light lever, and completely silent. Not the less expensive though...
I'm using the TRP S05E 203 front and rear and they are doing great (with Galfer green or Trickstuff Power+), no issue so far. The best...
I'm using the TRP S05E 203 front and rear and they are doing great (with Galfer green or Trickstuff Power+), no issue so far. The best part of them is the 2.3mm width which I was looking for (mostly for there solidity, I always bend my disk one day...).
No issue with the Trickstuff PO+ pads either, there are always been dead silent to me ?
I have to say that Trinity + S05E + Trickstuff PO+ is the golden ticket for me, absolutely tremendous breaking power, no fading even after complete days at the bike park and 8000m D-, no wandering bite point, easy to modulate, very light lever, and completely silent. Not the less expensive though...
Haha I have the same combo to try! I had a hunch it would be the ticket!Â
Fitting was straight forward, aside from the lever needing a tiny bit of filing to make it clear a part of the master cylinder body. I now have adjustable bite point on my Maximas. The adjustment range is really good, when maxed out there's only about 10mm of free stroke. In the photos both levers reach has been set to the same distance from the grip. On the front is the Lewis lever with the bite point set to the maximum and on the rear is the original Trickstuff. There's a good 15mm of difference in bite point distance.
The brakes now have a much more defined bite point and the power feels like it doubled since the power comes on with so much less pull. Gonna give these a go in the bikepark tomorrow.
The Lewis parts have arrived!Fitting was straight forward, aside from the lever needing a tiny bit of filing to make it clear a part of the...
The Lewis parts have arrived!
Fitting was straight forward, aside from the lever needing a tiny bit of filing to make it clear a part of the master cylinder body. I now have adjustable bite point on my Maximas. The adjustment range is really good, when maxed out there's only about 10mm of free stroke. In the photos both levers reach has been set to the same distance from the grip. On the front is the Lewis lever with the bite point set to the maximum and on the rear is the original Trickstuff. There's a good 15mm of difference in bite point distance.
The brakes now have a much more defined bite point and the power feels like it doubled since the power comes on with so much less pull. Gonna give these a go in the bikepark tomorrow.
next one that tells me that they're not a knock off gets a slap.
regardless, for the price asked it would be really nice if they came with a Bite Point Adjustment tho, people shouldn't even think they need to do this
They're not knockoffs, they just copied most of the dimensions (from a product that clearly works) and very liberaly borrowed the design language. And added some features 😜
I've seen a proto crank from them and it was a "for the love of God, after all the comments about the brakes, another straight copy?". It's like they have no imagination...Â
One thing to pay attention with those levers, the free stroke adjustment is just "push the piston in" while the lever stays in its stock position.Â
So make sure the circuit isn't closed from the reservoir when the lever is at its resting position, otherwise it'll be problematic when the brakes heat up and the liquid slightly expands, or just when pads wear out and there's not enough oil in the circuit to compensate.Â
If when the adjuster is all the way in, you can still bleed the brakes fine, all good.
Which is why on the Hope brakes you can only reduce the free stroke so much with the BPC screw before it bottoms out, or on the Beringer you can actually close the circuit and have 1mm of free stroke but then as it's closed, you have to open it again from time to time.
Â
How much was the whole kit if you don't mind? Might be interested to try out
I think Im getting at both A & B, TRP & Shimano brakes feel way more consistent For a few rides After doing a few hours of strapping it to the bar.
I've ridden many 'shop bled' TRP/XT brakes on other peoples bikes and they always feel odd or inconsistent when you start getting any kind of heat into the caliper.
Mavens have a wandering point similar to XT ONLY if you dont swing off the lever with the 2 rotor or 4mm spacer massage untill the seals/pistons settle together
It's 2024, surely we can have a simple to bleed brake that is powerful and consistent.... I guess Shimano's new brake at the end of year Will tick those boxes right?Â
Anybody tried these?![]()
Aren't they pretty much Galfer Shark rotors with more holes and less shark ? And thicker. I would expect those to perform very similarly to the Sharks... Which from my opinion is pretty good. Not as cheese grater-y as the Galfer Wave, not especially noisy (unless used with Trickstuff Power+ pads, but then every single rotor on earth is super loud as far as I know). Just super expensive unless bought at a big discount if you can find them.
Yeah TRP's version of the Shark.Â
The wave & shark setup is pretty good - which is what im running... just dont use Resin pads on wave's, they bite hard but wear fast.
I've been using  galfer purple ebike pads and they are damn good.
( my ebike setup with XT 4 pistons.)
Â
Yep. They seem pretty good. I feel like it's a pretty optimum rotor shape. Everything I've tried similar works well too.Â
I have one real brake burner of a run that'll be good to give them a real hiding on once it opens again.Â
I just ordered a pair of Waves to experiment with in combination with my current Sharks. Â I saw that Frameworks was running Waves front, Sharks rear. Â Is that what you're doing too, or vice versa? Â I have noticed that Sharks gobble through brake pads, I'm guessing due to the sharp laser cut holes.
Im running 223 wave up front with shark out back.
Purple ebike pads in my ebike are holding up damn well. way longer than any resin, i wouldve been through 2 or 3 sets of shimano resin by now.
I'm using the TRP S05E 203 front and rear and they are doing great (with Galfer green or Trickstuff Power+), no issue so far. The best part of them is the 2.3mm width which I was looking for (mostly for there solidity, I always bend my disk one day...).
No issue with the Trickstuff PO+ pads either, there are always been dead silent to me ?
I have to say that Trinity + S05E + Trickstuff PO+ is the golden ticket for me, absolutely tremendous breaking power, no fading even after complete days at the bike park and 8000m D-, no wandering bite point, easy to modulate, very light lever, and completely silent. Not the less expensive though...
Haha I have the same combo to try! I had a hunch it would be the ticket!Â
The Lewis parts have arrived!
Fitting was straight forward, aside from the lever needing a tiny bit of filing to make it clear a part of the master cylinder body. I now have adjustable bite point on my Maximas. The adjustment range is really good, when maxed out there's only about 10mm of free stroke. In the photos both levers reach has been set to the same distance from the grip. On the front is the Lewis lever with the bite point set to the maximum and on the rear is the original Trickstuff. There's a good 15mm of difference in bite point distance.
The brakes now have a much more defined bite point and the power feels like it doubled since the power comes on with so much less pull. Gonna give these a go in the bikepark tomorrow.
next one that tells me that they're not a knock off gets a slap.
regardless, for the price asked it would be really nice if they came with a Bite Point Adjustment tho, people shouldn't even think they need to do this
They're not knockoffs, they just copied most of the dimensions (from a product that clearly works) and very liberaly borrowed the design language. And added some features 😜
I've seen a proto crank from them and it was a "for the love of God, after all the comments about the brakes, another straight copy?". It's like they have no imagination...Â
One thing to pay attention with those levers, the free stroke adjustment is just "push the piston in" while the lever stays in its stock position.Â
So make sure the circuit isn't closed from the reservoir when the lever is at its resting position, otherwise it'll be problematic when the brakes heat up and the liquid slightly expands, or just when pads wear out and there's not enough oil in the circuit to compensate.Â
If when the adjuster is all the way in, you can still bleed the brakes fine, all good.
Which is why on the Hope brakes you can only reduce the free stroke so much with the BPC screw before it bottoms out, or on the Beringer you can actually close the circuit and have 1mm of free stroke but then as it's closed, you have to open it again from time to time.
Â
How much was the whole kit if you don't mind? Might be interested to try out
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