Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment

6/8/2024 2:07am
Worrals Tax does not help, Sram prices in NZ are nutz, get some 220 hs2 front and back maybe, you can fit even 2.3mm rotors on...

Worrals Tax does not help, Sram prices in NZ are nutz, get some 220 hs2 front and back maybe, you can fit even 2.3mm rotors on shimano no problem

Not the first time i've heard about that 'tax' haha.

1
brash
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AU
6/8/2024 3:49pm
Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise? Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im...

Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise?
Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im 100kg + 25kg ebike)
Do 2mm rotors like galfer or hs2 fit?

I have some Galfer Purple ebike pads to go on that was recommended to me but need some new rotors.

I would buy anther set of mavens but they are damn expensive here.

same situation.

Was thinking the 220mm Deore rotors or the Galfers with the magnet in the rear rotor.

I really like these cheap shimano brakes, same as XT to me, without the wondering bite point.

1
NicoZesty96
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portogruaro, VE IT
6/8/2024 5:33pm
Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise? Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im...

Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise?
Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im 100kg + 25kg ebike)
Do 2mm rotors like galfer or hs2 fit?

I have some Galfer Purple ebike pads to go on that was recommended to me but need some new rotors.

I would buy anther set of mavens but they are damn expensive here.

brash wrote:
same situation. Was thinking the 220mm Deore rotors or the Galfers with the magnet in the rear rotor. I really like these cheap shimano brakes, same...

same situation.

Was thinking the 220mm Deore rotors or the Galfers with the magnet in the rear rotor.

I really like these cheap shimano brakes, same as XT to me, without the wondering bite point.

i've heard that the plutoline oil solves that wondering bike point

FaahkEet
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Falls Church, VA US
6/9/2024 10:32am Edited Date/Time 6/9/2024 10:33am

Has anyone used the SwissStop Catalyst One rotors? I'm curious if they are better than the HS2 with retaining alignment and if they grip better.

I've been running a 200mm HS2 rear and a 203mm Trickstuff Dachle HD with Cominions using CodeRSC/Dominion A4 calipers and Gold Top Brake pads. The Dachle is significantly better in terms of pad interface grip. Before the Dachle the front was another HS2 and it took a lot to get a hard stop but with the Dachle it doesn't take much finger strength to be able to do an endo/stoppie with little body input to help initiate. The Dachle for whatever reason stops much better than the HS2.

Unfortunately the only way to get anther Dachle is to order from bike24 or somewhere like that with shipping costing as much as another rotor. Saw the SwissStop Catalyst One but no reviews, so its either a "meh" rotor or secretly really good. Just curious if anyone has used them and do they remain true after lots of hot 'n heavy braking, and do they offer better braking friction than HS2? If no one has any idea, suppose I'll buy one and test.

1llumA
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CA
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6/9/2024 12:59pm

I am running the catalyst one currently and have a few friends running them as well, they are relatively similar feeling to the HS2 but are cheaper. MSRP in Canadian dollar is 91$ for 200mm HS2 and 63$ for 203mm Catalyst One.

2
FaahkEet
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Falls Church, VA US
6/9/2024 1:57pm

Thanks for the info. They're cheap here too, like 40% less than the HS2 which was a big reason they interested me. Maybe I'll give them a shot when I need to replace the current HS2. Thanks!

Whattheheel
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Spearfish, SD US
6/9/2024 5:07pm

Galfer pads to Galfer rotors is all I will ever run again and this is coming from a guy that has managed bike shops for 20+ years. 

boozed
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224
Joined
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Location
AU
6/10/2024 6:12am
Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise? Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im...

Whats the Go to for Shimano Brakes rotor wise?
Got some deore 4 pots on the ebike and feeling a little under gunned power wise (im 100kg + 25kg ebike)
Do 2mm rotors like galfer or hs2 fit?

I have some Galfer Purple ebike pads to go on that was recommended to me but need some new rotors.

I would buy anther set of mavens but they are damn expensive here.

I was fortunate to pick up a stack of Hayes D-Series rotors for a really good price from CRC a while ago.  The extra thickness makes the lever throw nice and snappy (incidentally, it also makes Shimano's free stroke screw actually useful), while the surface finish makes bedding in much quicker compared to most Shimano rotors.  They even look like Shimano rotors, if that's important to you.

I'm still using the Shimano metallic pads, but will experiment with alternatives in the future.

6/10/2024 10:18am
FaahkEet wrote:
Has anyone used the SwissStop Catalyst One rotors? I'm curious if they are better than the HS2 with retaining alignment and if they grip better. I've...

Has anyone used the SwissStop Catalyst One rotors? I'm curious if they are better than the HS2 with retaining alignment and if they grip better.

I've been running a 200mm HS2 rear and a 203mm Trickstuff Dachle HD with Cominions using CodeRSC/Dominion A4 calipers and Gold Top Brake pads. The Dachle is significantly better in terms of pad interface grip. Before the Dachle the front was another HS2 and it took a lot to get a hard stop but with the Dachle it doesn't take much finger strength to be able to do an endo/stoppie with little body input to help initiate. The Dachle for whatever reason stops much better than the HS2.

Unfortunately the only way to get anther Dachle is to order from bike24 or somewhere like that with shipping costing as much as another rotor. Saw the SwissStop Catalyst One but no reviews, so its either a "meh" rotor or secretly really good. Just curious if anyone has used them and do they remain true after lots of hot 'n heavy braking, and do they offer better braking friction than HS2? If no one has any idea, suppose I'll buy one and test.

Curious about your setup.  I really value consistent feel between my bikes, and I'm running Codes on all three.  Interested in trying Dominions, but in addition to the cost of new brakes, for Codes I've got a spare hose, rebuild kits for MC and caliper, bleed kit, etc.

On my big/trip bike (Madonna), I run larger rotos and MTX gold pads.  Pretty happy, but always wonder if I'd have a little less arm pump with more power.  I've been tempted by the Cascade calipers, but they are way more expensive than a couple of Dominion calipers.

What hoses are your running with that setup?  Noticeable increase in power?  Other than power, what and how big is the difference in feel? 

You had any need for Hayes small parts and how hard were they to come by?

Thanks in advance for the advice, and definitely just point me to a prior post if you've covered somewhere else.

 

AndehM
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El Granada, CA US
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682nd
6/10/2024 10:51am

I'm curious - what's the rationale behind a Cominion setup?  When I put that combo into the brake force visualization tool, it's got less hydraulic and total leverage than a straight A4, but better than a straight Code.  In terms of quality of life, you keep the nice Code contact adjuster and MMX options and gain Crosshairs/cross caliper bleed, but lose the Bleeding Edge port on caliper and commonly available Code pads.  And most importantly you loose the super light Dominion lever feel.

(I've had no issues finding Hayes small parts.  There's multiple online shops that carry a good selection of them, local shop can order them, and you can get them direct from Hayes.)

1
6/10/2024 11:29am

For me, it was just a cheap power upgrade. I paid like 50 bucks on marketplace for my calipers. Very much a poor man's Cascade setup.

2
DServy
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Jackson, WY US
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1967th
6/10/2024 11:41am

Has anyone paired MT7 with TRP DH-R Evo levers? My magura levers just blew and I was wondering if it was even possible. 

NicoZesty96
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portogruaro, VE IT
6/10/2024 12:55pm
DServy wrote:

Has anyone paired MT7 with TRP DH-R Evo levers? My magura levers just blew and I was wondering if it was even possible. 

define "blew" cause if they just started acting up or leaking or something they have a 5 year leak proof warranty and you'll get a new master ( like i did )

DServy
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1967th
6/10/2024 3:34pm
DServy wrote:

Has anyone paired MT7 with TRP DH-R Evo levers? My magura levers just blew and I was wondering if it was even possible. 

define "blew" cause if they just started acting up or leaking or something they have a 5 year leak proof warranty and you'll get a new...

define "blew" cause if they just started acting up or leaking or something they have a 5 year leak proof warranty and you'll get a new master ( like i did )

Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off to the warranty they go. 

And then for sale, because I'm done with Maguras as a whole. 

1
Primoz
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SI
Fantasy
763rd
6/10/2024 9:06pm
AndehM wrote:
I'm curious - what's the rationale behind a Cominion setup?  When I put that combo into the brake force visualization tool, it's got less hydraulic and...

I'm curious - what's the rationale behind a Cominion setup?  When I put that combo into the brake force visualization tool, it's got less hydraulic and total leverage than a straight A4, but better than a straight Code.  In terms of quality of life, you keep the nice Code contact adjuster and MMX options and gain Crosshairs/cross caliper bleed, but lose the Bleeding Edge port on caliper and commonly available Code pads.  And most importantly you loose the super light Dominion lever feel.

(I've had no issues finding Hayes small parts.  There's multiple online shops that carry a good selection of them, local shop can order them, and you can get them direct from Hayes.)

Brake force visualisation?

TimBud
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GB
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6/10/2024 11:27pm
DServy wrote:
Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off...

Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off to the warranty they go. 

And then for sale, because I'm done with Maguras as a whole. 

If you haven't crashed, the ONLY way this can happen is when you reset the pistons without cracking open the bleed port. Even more likely if you've done a lever/top bleed without using the bleed blocks as this method will overfill the system.

It's not covered by warranty as its user error but we sent out loads under goodwill (at 1st instance) in the UK. During my time there I didn't send out 1 brake that was a genuine warranty.

 

@Casacadecomponents: If you ever get bored could I ask you to machine up some Magura MT masters... You'd sell feckin loads of them.

5
DServy
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1967th
6/11/2024 5:36am
DServy wrote:
Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off...

Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off to the warranty they go. 

And then for sale, because I'm done with Maguras as a whole. 

TimBud wrote:
If you haven't crashed, the ONLY way this can happen is when you reset the pistons without cracking open the bleed port. Even more likely if...

If you haven't crashed, the ONLY way this can happen is when you reset the pistons without cracking open the bleed port. Even more likely if you've done a lever/top bleed without using the bleed blocks as this method will overfill the system.

It's not covered by warranty as its user error but we sent out loads under goodwill (at 1st instance) in the UK. During my time there I didn't send out 1 brake that was a genuine warranty.

 

@Casacadecomponents: If you ever get bored could I ask you to machine up some Magura MT masters... You'd sell feckin loads of them.

I swear this particular brake has been particularly cursed. The front one? Just fine, no issues with the bleed and everything has felt right from the get go. 

The rear brake however, has been the problem child. Even after a few full bleeds, and a bunch of other tricks, the rear pistons kept being extremely lazy and not fully retracting. Finally got that fix by advancing all the pistons out individually and then lubing each one with mineral oil (all with a bleed cup installed, so oil can freely flow out the lever). Worked for a ride, go to ride it again and not only are all the pads glazed, but the brake now goes to bar. Slap a bleed cup on it and that doesn't fix it.

This is my 4th set of magura brakes across my families bikes, and none of them have given me nearly as many issues after the first bleed as this set. And I'm aware of the overfill issue, so I've always done any piston resets with the bleed screw cracked open. 

As far as not seeing this issue before, I hadn't either until this month when I had two friends experience a loss of braking function while riding. 

And honestly, I want to love magura, but there just simply are better brakes with less faff and more power than Magura offers now.

HexonJuan
Posts
80
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Location
WI US
6/11/2024 6:49am
DServy wrote:
Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off...

Lever goes to bar even after full bleed with bleed-blocks in, pistons barely move. Seen this a couple times before on MT7 before so its off to the warranty they go. 

And then for sale, because I'm done with Maguras as a whole. 

TimBud wrote:
If you haven't crashed, the ONLY way this can happen is when you reset the pistons without cracking open the bleed port. Even more likely if...

If you haven't crashed, the ONLY way this can happen is when you reset the pistons without cracking open the bleed port. Even more likely if you've done a lever/top bleed without using the bleed blocks as this method will overfill the system.

It's not covered by warranty as its user error but we sent out loads under goodwill (at 1st instance) in the UK. During my time there I didn't send out 1 brake that was a genuine warranty.

 

@Casacadecomponents: If you ever get bored could I ask you to machine up some Magura MT masters... You'd sell feckin loads of them.

DServy wrote:
I swear this particular brake has been particularly cursed. The front one? Just fine, no issues with the bleed and everything has felt right from the...

I swear this particular brake has been particularly cursed. The front one? Just fine, no issues with the bleed and everything has felt right from the get go. 

The rear brake however, has been the problem child. Even after a few full bleeds, and a bunch of other tricks, the rear pistons kept being extremely lazy and not fully retracting. Finally got that fix by advancing all the pistons out individually and then lubing each one with mineral oil (all with a bleed cup installed, so oil can freely flow out the lever). Worked for a ride, go to ride it again and not only are all the pads glazed, but the brake now goes to bar. Slap a bleed cup on it and that doesn't fix it.

This is my 4th set of magura brakes across my families bikes, and none of them have given me nearly as many issues after the first bleed as this set. And I'm aware of the overfill issue, so I've always done any piston resets with the bleed screw cracked open. 

As far as not seeing this issue before, I hadn't either until this month when I had two friends experience a loss of braking function while riding. 

And honestly, I want to love magura, but there just simply are better brakes with less faff and more power than Magura offers now.

Pal had the reservoir cap screws (same as the handlebar clamp's) loosen up on him resulting in the brake continuously ingesting air. Quick and easy to fix if it turns out to be the issue. 

FaahkEet
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Falls Church, VA US
6/11/2024 11:24am Edited Date/Time 6/11/2024 11:27am
Curious about your setup.  I really value consistent feel between my bikes, and I'm running Codes on all three.  Interested in trying Dominions, but in addition...

Curious about your setup.  I really value consistent feel between my bikes, and I'm running Codes on all three.  Interested in trying Dominions, but in addition to the cost of new brakes, for Codes I've got a spare hose, rebuild kits for MC and caliper, bleed kit, etc.

On my big/trip bike (Madonna), I run larger rotos and MTX gold pads.  Pretty happy, but always wonder if I'd have a little less arm pump with more power.  I've been tempted by the Cascade calipers, but they are way more expensive than a couple of Dominion calipers.

What hoses are your running with that setup?  Noticeable increase in power?  Other than power, what and how big is the difference in feel? 

You had any need for Hayes small parts and how hard were they to come by?

Thanks in advance for the advice, and definitely just point me to a prior post if you've covered somewhere else.

 

I just fitted up the calipers to the existing banjo and bolt. I could see the oring pulsing a bit when squeezing the lever but no leaks. I did order a set of Hayes compatible banjos and bolts just in case, will install it on the rear first when I replace that line - the outer sheath peeled a way in a spot from a shuttling incident so a very small show leak from that. The banjo and bolt were easy to get. The rear brake also needed a new post mount due to its size so picked one up from North Shore Billet. I think there's other companies that offer the PMs for oversized calipers but that's just what I found at the time. 

Not sure what causes it but the levers can't go all the way to the bars using just reach adjust. Its not bad for me, and with the contact adjust rolled in a bit its close enough for me. 

I noticed more power with less effort, and less loss on longer runs with lots of braking. I used sintered pads from DiscoBrakes with the HS2 rotors in the pure Code setup, so they should have tolerated longer runs with lots of braking as well as the current Gold pads from TopBrake.

But yeah it's essentially a budget version of the Cascade Caliper upgrade. I just picked up the calipers on sale, didn't get the full kit, to try upgrading the existing codes.

2
29
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AT
6/13/2024 5:34am

So for those who have tried both, would you rather get the mavens or the trickstuff direttissima?

 

pros for me seem to be both feel and build quality on the trickstuffs while spare part availability might not be that good, and for the mavens power and pretty much every bike shop carrying sram parts. 
 

maven silver can be had for a good 400 right now and the ts are still a good 1k. Gonna need bleed kits for both on top. 
 

mavens seem like a good deal to get right now but I don’t want to bite myself later that I didn’t splurge on the shinier ones. 

6/13/2024 7:56am
Curious about your setup.  I really value consistent feel between my bikes, and I'm running Codes on all three.  Interested in trying Dominions, but in addition...

Curious about your setup.  I really value consistent feel between my bikes, and I'm running Codes on all three.  Interested in trying Dominions, but in addition to the cost of new brakes, for Codes I've got a spare hose, rebuild kits for MC and caliper, bleed kit, etc.

On my big/trip bike (Madonna), I run larger rotos and MTX gold pads.  Pretty happy, but always wonder if I'd have a little less arm pump with more power.  I've been tempted by the Cascade calipers, but they are way more expensive than a couple of Dominion calipers.

What hoses are your running with that setup?  Noticeable increase in power?  Other than power, what and how big is the difference in feel? 

You had any need for Hayes small parts and how hard were they to come by?

Thanks in advance for the advice, and definitely just point me to a prior post if you've covered somewhere else.

 

FaahkEet wrote:
I just fitted up the calipers to the existing banjo and bolt. I could see the oring pulsing a bit when squeezing the lever but no...

I just fitted up the calipers to the existing banjo and bolt. I could see the oring pulsing a bit when squeezing the lever but no leaks. I did order a set of Hayes compatible banjos and bolts just in case, will install it on the rear first when I replace that line - the outer sheath peeled a way in a spot from a shuttling incident so a very small show leak from that. The banjo and bolt were easy to get. The rear brake also needed a new post mount due to its size so picked one up from North Shore Billet. I think there's other companies that offer the PMs for oversized calipers but that's just what I found at the time. 

Not sure what causes it but the levers can't go all the way to the bars using just reach adjust. Its not bad for me, and with the contact adjust rolled in a bit its close enough for me. 

I noticed more power with less effort, and less loss on longer runs with lots of braking. I used sintered pads from DiscoBrakes with the HS2 rotors in the pure Code setup, so they should have tolerated longer runs with lots of braking as well as the current Gold pads from TopBrake.

But yeah it's essentially a budget version of the Cascade Caliper upgrade. I just picked up the calipers on sale, didn't get the full kit, to try upgrading the existing codes.

Thanks for the thorough reply.

I may be misunderstanding what you're planning, but I'm pretty sure the banjo bolts are crimped onto the ends of SRAM hoses and cannot be removed, so that means $100 in new Hayes hoses.  

On fitting the Hayes hose to the SRAM MC, I think the Hayes hose is "proprietary" and thicker than the SRAM hose.  Have you looked into this?  Can you pair Hayes banjo bolts with something like Jagwire hoses?  Are those hoses decent?

I've got NSB caliper adapters and hangers on all my bikes, so I'm good to go there. 

The pulsing o-ring sketches me out a bit, and it seems like if I replace my hoses I'm in for another $100 and a potential issue at the other end of the hose (unless I'm missing something).

 

FaahkEet
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Location
Falls Church, VA US
6/13/2024 12:07pm

Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous SRAM bits. It's been working great for the past 8 or 9 months. 

I'm only replacing the rear line because the outer sheath got torn away a bit by another bike's flat pedal pin. Otherwise I'd keep it this way as there have been no other issues.

For the replacement line its some long line I picked up from Ali express a while back. Used it for another bike's hydraulics and it held. The Hayes compatible banjos seems to fit in and the other end the Code barb fits/doesn't fall out. I'm not using Hayes specific olive/banjo just compatible, the dry-fit looked good but of course the real test will be fully connecting that up and filling with fluid. So crossing fingers there. 

But if it weren't for that damage from someone carelessly jamming their bike in the shuttle bed I wouldn't be doing the new line, not yet anyway, and continue happily using the SRAM hose and olive/barb.

As far as the oring pulsing, its very hard to see because there's very little space. Its just that the SRAM olive is like half a mm too small to fully cover the port. The pictures should show how very little room there is between the olive and caliper to see the oring.

Pics of the A4 caliper/SRAM olive/bolt, and the generic Hayes compatible future olive/barb in its package.

2
NicoZesty96
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portogruaro, VE IT
6/13/2024 12:14pm
29 wrote:
So for those who have tried both, would you rather get the mavens or the trickstuff direttissima?   pros for me seem to be both feel...

So for those who have tried both, would you rather get the mavens or the trickstuff direttissima?

 

pros for me seem to be both feel and build quality on the trickstuffs while spare part availability might not be that good, and for the mavens power and pretty much every bike shop carrying sram parts. 
 

maven silver can be had for a good 400 right now and the ts are still a good 1k. Gonna need bleed kits for both on top. 
 

mavens seem like a good deal to get right now but I don’t want to bite myself later that I didn’t splurge on the shinier ones. 

just by the knowledge i've got here and some parking lot test of many brakes, sadly not all on the trails, i would not get the mavens as i hate the stiff lever they have, would't also get the trickstuff because of the prize, but the closest thing to them, Hope Tech4 V4. lighter action, same power as Maximas, parts available forever, high quality finish ( mavens look the same crap as dominion, the calipers look like they've been finished and assembled in the dark )

sprungmass
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Location
Calgary, AB CA
6/13/2024 12:39pm
Shinook wrote:
I had both of these and can comment.  As they mentioned, the Trickstuff brakes have a more linear power delivery. This means that a pull of...

I had both of these and can comment. 

As they mentioned, the Trickstuff brakes have a more linear power delivery. This means that a pull of the lever is going to gradually get you more power, it is there but it comes on a lot slower. Similar to Hopes, these have a sortof more vague bite point. I don't mean that in a bad way, just that unlike most other brakes other than Hope, there isn't a significant increase in force required to pull the lever once the pads engage. It's a very subtle feeling as you pull on the lever. That's not a bad thing necessarily, but it does require a longer lever throw, so you can' trun them super close to the bars. I really like they have a method for straightening the hose out, this is something I had issues with using Hope brakes. The bleed process is a bit of a pain but I only had to do it once, the lever is generally pretty easy to install on your bars, however I found the reach adjuster got in the way of some controls. Nitpicks, but great if you like slower, more linear power delivery. 

The Intends are closer to Mavens in the way they deliver power. There is a more pronounced bite point in the lever feel and the power comes on a lot faster. They are more like traditional brakes in how they feel, the closest I'd compare them to are the Hayes Dominions, although the Intends have a lighter lever pull and are more fade resistant. The lever hose can rotate so there are no risks of kinks, which is nice, and disconnecting doesn't require cutting and installing a new fitting, which is very nice. There are two undisclosed problems with these, however. The first is the lever length, it is very far inboard and there is a brace, which means if you run really large grips or run your hands far out on the bars, you may not be able to reach the lever. I don't think this is a problem for 99% of cases, but I have to run the lever close to slammed against the grips and you lose adjustment position based on this, it can also effect other cockpit controls. Second, the caliper is WIDE, 43mm-ish wide (3-5mm wider than most), this isn't a problem in a lot of cases but if you run something with thick spokes like BERD or PiRope (I'm guessing/presuming on the latter), then the caliper may strike the spokes. This won't be an issue for most people, but something to note. The pads are great, the bleed process is super simple (although it took a bit more time than others since the rear comes dry), and I've had no maintenance issues. They come with fluid and a bleed kit.

In general, I prefer the Intends. They are easy to work on, easy to bleed, and very consistent with a more defined bite point. If I could just run those, I would. The Trickstuff brakes are very good, but a few minor refinements aside, I don't see the value in them vs Hope. Trickstuff parts are harder to come by, Bionol is near impossible to find in the US, they are harder to bleed, and feel very similar at the lever (Hope power comes on a bit faster though). I've also heard stories of cracked pistons and issues with support, but I wouldn't know personally. The Intends have no real rival that I've found, they are the best boutique brake on the market I've tried. IMO the Trickstuff brakes are a hard sell vs Hope, especially considering you have to find fluid and a bleed kit, at $1200 it's a difficult value proposition for me and I feel they should come with both of these things.

Hey Shinook, I ran into the same issue as you with the Intend Trinity calipers being wide. After mounting my all-mountain wheelset with marginally thicker spokes (+0.2mm) and after a ride I saw that it scarred the caliper. Very minor and appears to happen under hard cornering but just enough to remove the anodizing but luckily no damage to the spokes. The solution? I picked up some 6-Bolt Rotor Spacers by TRP. They make them in 0.5mm and 1.0mm. I picked up the 0.5mm and added them to both of my front wheels. That allows me to shift the caliper by 0.5mm hence fixing the issue. The rear caliper is just fine.

For reference:

XC Wheelset: Roval Control Carbon DT 350 w/ DT Competition Race 2.0/1.6/2.0
AM Wheelset: Roval Traverse Carbon DT350 w/ DT Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0

4
DServy
Posts
59
Joined
5/28/2015
Location
Jackson, WY US
Fantasy
1967th
6/13/2024 2:43pm
29 wrote:
So for those who have tried both, would you rather get the mavens or the trickstuff direttissima?   pros for me seem to be both feel...

So for those who have tried both, would you rather get the mavens or the trickstuff direttissima?

 

pros for me seem to be both feel and build quality on the trickstuffs while spare part availability might not be that good, and for the mavens power and pretty much every bike shop carrying sram parts. 
 

maven silver can be had for a good 400 right now and the ts are still a good 1k. Gonna need bleed kits for both on top. 
 

mavens seem like a good deal to get right now but I don’t want to bite myself later that I didn’t splurge on the shinier ones. 

just by the knowledge i've got here and some parking lot test of many brakes, sadly not all on the trails, i would not get the...

just by the knowledge i've got here and some parking lot test of many brakes, sadly not all on the trails, i would not get the mavens as i hate the stiff lever they have, would't also get the trickstuff because of the prize, but the closest thing to them, Hope Tech4 V4. lighter action, same power as Maximas, parts available forever, high quality finish ( mavens look the same crap as dominion, the calipers look like they've been finished and assembled in the dark )

Just to offer a counterpoint:

Mavens are, hands down, the best brakes I've ever used. Across all the TRP, Shimano, SRAM, and Magura I have owned, nothing has come even close. The adjustability to get the brake to feel how you want between pad material, rotor size, bite point and lever reach is outstanding. And while the brakes feel great when cold, when they warm up they feel even better. I seriously cannot say enough great things about them. 

I did have some issues initially with wandering bite point and lever stiffness, but those were resolved by doing every single step in their bleed videos. I kinda half-assed the lever massage on the rear brake and paid for it.

Also, and this is coming from someone who has traditionally not been a huge fan on SRAM products, but their "bleeding edge" rear caliper bleedport is worth its weight in gold. feeling confident I can do a full bleed without getting brake oil everywhere is magic. 

1
6/13/2024 4:39pm
FaahkEet wrote:
Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous...

Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous SRAM bits. It's been working great for the past 8 or 9 months. 

I'm only replacing the rear line because the outer sheath got torn away a bit by another bike's flat pedal pin. Otherwise I'd keep it this way as there have been no other issues.

For the replacement line its some long line I picked up from Ali express a while back. Used it for another bike's hydraulics and it held. The Hayes compatible banjos seems to fit in and the other end the Code barb fits/doesn't fall out. I'm not using Hayes specific olive/banjo just compatible, the dry-fit looked good but of course the real test will be fully connecting that up and filling with fluid. So crossing fingers there. 

But if it weren't for that damage from someone carelessly jamming their bike in the shuttle bed I wouldn't be doing the new line, not yet anyway, and continue happily using the SRAM hose and olive/barb.

As far as the oring pulsing, its very hard to see because there's very little space. Its just that the SRAM olive is like half a mm too small to fully cover the port. The pictures should show how very little room there is between the olive and caliper to see the oring.

Pics of the A4 caliper/SRAM olive/bolt, and the generic Hayes compatible future olive/barb in its package.

Huge thanks for all that detailed info.  Def seems like you've thought it through.  8-9 months is encouraging.  May hunt for some bargain calipers and pick up some pads and give it a go.  Would be a pretty inexpensive and painless way to experiment.

You seem pretty mechanically adept, but I've got a brake line with the outer sheath that's been knicked pretty good from catching between the frame and the edge of skinny in a fall.  It's been fine for a long time.  I don't think the rubber sheath adds much to the stiffness of the hose, but it's on my 5010 that doesn't see a lot of long or steep descending so I haven't noticed any degradation in performance or looked into whether it matters. 

Sugru for something hard and a little electrical tape to keep the sugru in place over time.  I'll replace the hose eventually.  Probably would have already except for stupid internal routing.

Maybe somebody on here has some knowledge to drop on brake hoses re whether the outer rubber sheath does anything other than protect the inner hose?

Jakub_G
Posts
185
Joined
8/7/2019
Location
SK
6/14/2024 4:56am
FaahkEet wrote:
Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous...

Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous SRAM bits. It's been working great for the past 8 or 9 months. 

I'm only replacing the rear line because the outer sheath got torn away a bit by another bike's flat pedal pin. Otherwise I'd keep it this way as there have been no other issues.

For the replacement line its some long line I picked up from Ali express a while back. Used it for another bike's hydraulics and it held. The Hayes compatible banjos seems to fit in and the other end the Code barb fits/doesn't fall out. I'm not using Hayes specific olive/banjo just compatible, the dry-fit looked good but of course the real test will be fully connecting that up and filling with fluid. So crossing fingers there. 

But if it weren't for that damage from someone carelessly jamming their bike in the shuttle bed I wouldn't be doing the new line, not yet anyway, and continue happily using the SRAM hose and olive/barb.

As far as the oring pulsing, its very hard to see because there's very little space. Its just that the SRAM olive is like half a mm too small to fully cover the port. The pictures should show how very little room there is between the olive and caliper to see the oring.

Pics of the A4 caliper/SRAM olive/bolt, and the generic Hayes compatible future olive/barb in its package.

Are you running rotor the wrong way around for a reason? Something I noticed, it was normal on trial bikes but not on any bike that only goes forward.

1
HexonJuan
Posts
80
Joined
6/10/2015
Location
WI US
6/14/2024 6:26am Edited Date/Time 6/14/2024 6:27am
FaahkEet wrote:
Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous...

Currently the only new things in the brake setup on the bike are the A4 calipers, pads, and the NSB adapter. Everything else are the previous SRAM bits. It's been working great for the past 8 or 9 months. 

I'm only replacing the rear line because the outer sheath got torn away a bit by another bike's flat pedal pin. Otherwise I'd keep it this way as there have been no other issues.

For the replacement line its some long line I picked up from Ali express a while back. Used it for another bike's hydraulics and it held. The Hayes compatible banjos seems to fit in and the other end the Code barb fits/doesn't fall out. I'm not using Hayes specific olive/banjo just compatible, the dry-fit looked good but of course the real test will be fully connecting that up and filling with fluid. So crossing fingers there. 

But if it weren't for that damage from someone carelessly jamming their bike in the shuttle bed I wouldn't be doing the new line, not yet anyway, and continue happily using the SRAM hose and olive/barb.

As far as the oring pulsing, its very hard to see because there's very little space. Its just that the SRAM olive is like half a mm too small to fully cover the port. The pictures should show how very little room there is between the olive and caliper to see the oring.

Pics of the A4 caliper/SRAM olive/bolt, and the generic Hayes compatible future olive/barb in its package.

Huge thanks for all that detailed info.  Def seems like you've thought it through.  8-9 months is encouraging.  May hunt for some bargain calipers and pick...

Huge thanks for all that detailed info.  Def seems like you've thought it through.  8-9 months is encouraging.  May hunt for some bargain calipers and pick up some pads and give it a go.  Would be a pretty inexpensive and painless way to experiment.

You seem pretty mechanically adept, but I've got a brake line with the outer sheath that's been knicked pretty good from catching between the frame and the edge of skinny in a fall.  It's been fine for a long time.  I don't think the rubber sheath adds much to the stiffness of the hose, but it's on my 5010 that doesn't see a lot of long or steep descending so I haven't noticed any degradation in performance or looked into whether it matters. 

Sugru for something hard and a little electrical tape to keep the sugru in place over time.  I'll replace the hose eventually.  Probably would have already except for stupid internal routing.

Maybe somebody on here has some knowledge to drop on brake hoses re whether the outer rubber sheath does anything other than protect the inner hose?

The outer sheath is for protection, mostly, but does contribute to some of the stiffness of the line. It's worthwhile to really peek at the Kevlar wrap under it. If there are cut threads, swap it out. Hose ruptures aren't a fun party to get an invite to. The neu and impruved Park internal routing kit has a handy turnbuckle style barb (silver piece on the right) that threads into both hose ends simultaneously, making the process of swapping out housing & brake lines a snap. Well worth the price of admission for that piece alone. Closeup of the various cable ends included in the Park Tool IR-1.3 Internal Cable Routing Kit., click to enlarge

FaahkEet
Posts
23
Joined
3/12/2023
Location
Falls Church, VA US
6/14/2024 6:28am
Huge thanks for all that detailed info.  Def seems like you've thought it through.  8-9 months is encouraging.  May hunt for some bargain calipers and pick...

Huge thanks for all that detailed info.  Def seems like you've thought it through.  8-9 months is encouraging.  May hunt for some bargain calipers and pick up some pads and give it a go.  Would be a pretty inexpensive and painless way to experiment.

You seem pretty mechanically adept, but I've got a brake line with the outer sheath that's been knicked pretty good from catching between the frame and the edge of skinny in a fall.  It's been fine for a long time.  I don't think the rubber sheath adds much to the stiffness of the hose, but it's on my 5010 that doesn't see a lot of long or steep descending so I haven't noticed any degradation in performance or looked into whether it matters. 

Sugru for something hard and a little electrical tape to keep the sugru in place over time.  I'll replace the hose eventually.  Probably would have already except for stupid internal routing.

Maybe somebody on here has some knowledge to drop on brake hoses re whether the outer rubber sheath does anything other than protect the inner hose?

There might be a deeper micro cut, can't really tell but there's a slow seepage of fluid. If I don't clean my bike for a few rides dirt will collect around the hose and along it near the nick so that's the reason I'll replace it. No loss of power or effectiveness just a very slow seepage of DOT fluid. Maybe I can seal it if I get the surrounding area super clean, I'll give that a shot first.

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