Do you use climbing-specific suspension features like lock-out?

Related:
Create New Tag

1/12/2015 10:34 AM

Just curious how many of you run suspension with climbing-specific features that can be turned on or off during a ride via switch on the shock/fork or handlebar mount. If so what feature do you have and how often do you use it? Do any of you have the features and never use them?



|

1/12/2015 10:47 AM

If I'm climbing or cycling on the road/ fire road, I'd almost always drop my forks down to 130 (RS Revelations) and flick the pro pedal on. The forks have lockout, but I only ever use it if I'm out of the seat and climbing, which isn't very often.

|

1/12/2015 10:54 AM

I only use the propedal feature on my Float rear shock when a longer climb is coming up. Otherwise (95% of the time) I tend not to touch any of my lockout or propedal features when riding.

|

1/12/2015 10:58 AM

I use all 3 features on my Float X, Climb, Trail, Descend on every ride. I also drop my Talas on climbs, every ride. 2012 Nomad C with 2015 Fox goods, the suspension features change the bike significantly when climbing.

|

1/12/2015 12:32 PM

I don't use any of the futures for climbing, short or long climbs.
The CTD shock I had didn't make much of a difference when climbing, but did ruin the downhill when I forget to switch it to D.

|

1/12/2015 12:41 PM
Edited Date/Time: 1/12/2015 12:49 PM

Use all three settings on the rear shock and use a travel adjust on the front (Currently Pike, used TALAS with Fox)... Bigger trail bikes with longer travel forks and slack angles put the rider's mass too far back behind the BB on steep climbs, thus, light front end and a bad case of the "swervies"... Dropping the front end minimizes this big-time: puts the rider's weight more over the BB and plants the front end. These adjustability-features kinda do give you the best of all worlds: low BB and active on descents (which is too mushy and slacked out for optimal climbing), and then flick a couple switches and get WAY better climbing position and a much more efficient pedaling platform. I know a lot of riders don't use this stuff, but if you're riding a longer travel bike with good (slacker) angles--and climbing adequately long and steep climbs--you're making life a lot harder then it really has to be if you're not utilizing these features. All my buddies make fun of me 'cause I always ride and have ridden travel adjust, but I'm short and fat and out climb almost all of them...'cause I'm smart and embrace technology.



|

1/12/2015 12:51 PM

My bike has a RockShox Monarch Plus which features a climb setting, but I hardly ever use it. I'm usually airheaded enough to forget to switch back before the downhills anyway, so I usually prefer to ignore the thing altogether. I've ridden quite a few modern frames where I've not really felt a big need to adjust the shock for climbing anyway, seems frame designers are getting their heads around the issue more and more.

|

1/12/2015 1:26 PM

I do all of the time. Makes climbs end quicker.

|

1/12/2015 2:11 PM

I only use CS switch on DBair, I run pikes rc3t with fairly high pressure so there is really no need to switch these into hard mode as well.

|

1/12/2015 2:21 PM

mine blew out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

|

1/12/2015 2:34 PM

I've just taken delivery of the new Transition Scout, #giddyup ; ) and on my first ride (and back from injury) I got up a climb I've never been able to previously (Race DH, not good at pedalling!) in full descend mode, stoked! And as the Iceman pointed out, I have previously left bikes in climb mode on the way down : / Given this new efficiency, I will stick to full descend mode all of the time, yeeew!

|

1/12/2015 2:38 PM

typically leave my Float CTD in Trail, it only goes to Climb when I know the long climb ahead or to D in case of a familiar technical downhill. Bike is a Banshee Spitfire V2.

|

1/12/2015 2:50 PM

I use my climb settings on anything more then a couple minutes of climbing, My pike RCT3 and DBCS pair up amazingly, But like Karabuka I will reach first reach for my DBCS. I also road a XC race this fall and left the Pike and DBCS in climb modes. very effective!

|

SEE YOU ON PIKEBIKE

1/12/2015 3:07 PM

Always, but sometimes fiddling the switch between the legs is cumbersome.

I almost never use an "in-between" setting as it tends be be less good at down and less good at up equalling overall less good.

I need my suspension to be consistent so I can count on it's behavior.

P

|

1/12/2015 3:14 PM

I ride a 2014 Scott Genius 720 with Twinloc, CTD on both fork and shock. It makes mode changes so easy and does both at the same time so I change frequently according to whats coming up, as simple as a gear shift. I can bomb a downhill section in open mode, then lock the fork and shock out for the following climb with one push. Love it, but it's part of the conundrum now. I'd like to go to Pikes but I'll lose this feature.

|

1/12/2015 3:20 PM

Use the climb switch on my CCDBA and lower the pike and use the middle setting on the rtc3..

Id rather have a bike that needs the climb switch on the way up to be able to have it fully open on the descents...I feel like the bikes Ive ridden that climb good with the shock open suffer on the way down..

|

1/12/2015 4:00 PM

Yes i do PIKE AND CC DBCS. This is how lazy i am i made a bar mount remote for my CC DBCS.




|

1/12/2015 5:00 PM

I don't touch my Pike at all, its always fully open. My shock stays in trail most of the time, but I'll put it into climb for fireroad climbs, and descend when there is a rough descent with no pedalling.

|

1/12/2015 5:11 PM

I ride my Yeti SB66c with a Float CTD shock and garage hack 2014 Talas 160/120 36 fork. I rigged us a very clean way to control the Talas feature using the left side shifter made vacant by my conversion to 1X10. I use both on every climb. Wish I had a way to engage both with a single throw of a lever.

|

1/12/2015 7:19 PM

Riding Giant Reign, with Maestro design, no lock is needed as long you don't bounce it like you never ridden a full-suspension bike before. Your body will have to adapt eventually.

|

1/12/2015 9:03 PM
Edited Date/Time: 1/12/2015 9:04 PM

iceman2058 wrote:

My bike has a RockShox Monarch Plus which features a climb setting, but I hardly ever use it. I'm usually airheaded enough to forget to switch back before the downhills anyway, so I usually prefer to ignore the thing altogether. I've ridden quite a few modern frames where I've not really felt a big need to adjust the shock for climbing anyway, seems frame designers are getting their heads around the issue more and more.

I'm with you. Too often I forgot to switch it back over.
After running an RC4 on my last bike, Yeti 7, I got used to tuning the low speed compression.
With my Bronson, I have a CCDB Air, no climb seitch. Spend some time tuning the low speed circuits and you can get a pretty good happy medium.

|

1/13/2015 3:38 AM

I use the propedal on my Fox RP23 on the climbs and my Talas only when the thing is steep as F...

still would change for a fork with no travel change, works smoother, cheers

|

1/13/2015 4:32 AM

Fork - never
shock - "almost" never (depends what bike I'm riding)

|

1/13/2015 5:50 AM

hmm...
i have rp23 propedal..that's enough..

|

1/13/2015 7:08 AM




Scott Genius (27.8lbs) with twinlock remote. I use it all the time. 3 modes: fully locked out both front and rear suspension, Trail mode 120mm travel with moderate level of dampening, and Descent mode which fully opens both front and rear suspension to 150mm of fun travel.

With the flick of the switch it's all automatic and instant. So if I am about to climb a steep climb that is smooth or a little bumpy I lock it all out. If the climb is rough with a lot of roots or rocks I use trail mode and find the right gear to be in and let the front and rear tires help get me up better.

Not having to deal with reaching down for the switch on both the front fork and rear suspension is awesome. Also not losing any pedal stroke energy when fully locked out makes climbing a little easier. Needless to say I love it.


|

1/13/2015 8:50 AM

On my 2013 Stumpy 29 EVO with a 150mm Pike and Monarch Plus DebonAir I never lock out or drop the fork, but use the three shock modes all the time. The M+ does not have a full lockout, but helps a lot while climbing, especially steep stuff. I use the middle setting on the shock frequently for smoother descents because it ensures body motion translates to bike motion. I probably wouldn't use these settings as much if the switch wasn't so accessible.

|

1/13/2015 9:15 AM

Intense Carbine w/CCDBA and Pike. I put the Pike into Trail mode on very smooth climbs, which are pretty rare for me. I'd rather ride up techy stuff where the suspension helps.

After demo-ing some Treks equipped with CTD, I purposely bought a bike that wouldn't require me to be flipping those switches all the time.

It doesn't pedal like my hardtail, but it's not a hardtail.

|

1/13/2015 9:19 AM

I will if its a long climb, really like the climb switch on my DB-inline, and I tend to keep the rear shock on my other bike in trail mode most of the time, unless there is a long fire road climb or non-technical climb

|

1/13/2015 9:37 AM

i am riding a Norco Range

my X fusion sweep has a lock-out i only use on the road if i am sprinting over a rise...

my Xfusion O2 shock has 4 positions and 95% of the time its fully open... i only ever close it down on the road, or if i am on a fireroad climb that will take me an hour or more to climb... on the trail i always leave it fully open climbing or descending...

|

I am the founder of Memory Pilot I make MTB Fenders and have an awesome sock.

1/13/2015 11:54 AM

Locked out on the road to the trails, locked out on the flats and fire road, locked out on the climb. Open on the dh! Did an xc race last summer and stayed locked out the whole race.

|