2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes?

TEAMROBOT
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Los Angeles, CA US
5/5/2020 1:59pm
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors?

I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.

Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
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5/5/2020 2:16pm
my brother runs the Intend Aero 2.25mm rotors with the new XTR brakes, works just fine, great braking power too.
1
Falcon
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Menifee, CA US
5/6/2020 1:39pm
My initial thought is that the only difference would be a smaller clearance to the rotor surface, resulting in a more immediate bite. As long as the pads retract away from the rotor surface you should be fine.

I could also imagine more heat buildup if you end up putting more force on the brakes via the same lever pull, however. There are probably design considerations like that when they specify a rotor width. Maybe an engineer on here can help?
5/6/2020 2:48pm
TEAMROBOT wrote:
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors? I'm sure this is the worst idea...
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors?

I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.

Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
Try it and let us know? I have Code R's and without the pad adjust i find as the pads wear the throw is pretty terrible. Like you, I've tried over filling, but that is frustrating if you wanna change pads on the road and don't have a bleed kit. I end just binning pads early which isn't great.
reseRved
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Santa Cruz, CA US
5/6/2020 3:54pm
I have 2.3mm TRP rotors mated with Saint brakes and no rotor drag. Go for it.
1
brimmergj
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Bennington, VT US
5/6/2020 5:55pm
I've had pretty good luck with Uberbike XL pads. They're 25% thicker than normal pads and definitely close the gap. I added the link for ZEE pads, if you wanted to check them out.

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-New-Sa…

My brother use to do pad advancements and essentially overfill the brakes with fluid. Worked fine and dandy until they locked on his rear rotor a few turns into an enduro stage and started to smoke. Cooked the pads and rotor. He doesn't do that anymore.
TEAMROBOT
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5/6/2020 9:26pm
reseRved, have you noticed a change in feel at the lever with your bigger rotors?
adamdigby
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San Juan Capistrano, CA US
5/6/2020 10:34pm
I would like to know this answer as well! ^ I don't enjoy how much throw there is until pad contact and it forces me to run my levers farther out than I would prefer.
hairyyy
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AD
5/7/2020 2:25am
brimmergj wrote:
I've had pretty good luck with Uberbike XL pads. They're 25% thicker than normal pads and definitely close the gap. I added the link for ZEE...
I've had pretty good luck with Uberbike XL pads. They're 25% thicker than normal pads and definitely close the gap. I added the link for ZEE pads, if you wanted to check them out.

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-New-Sa…

My brother use to do pad advancements and essentially overfill the brakes with fluid. Worked fine and dandy until they locked on his rear rotor a few turns into an enduro stage and started to smoke. Cooked the pads and rotor. He doesn't do that anymore.
Don`t them pads have thinner back plates resulting in more actual brake pad whilst maintaining standard overall thickness?

Ive been bubble bleeding shimano with the lever pulled in right up to putting the bolt/o ring back into the lever gives a slightly better lever throw and essentially overfills the system slightly, also seems to help with wandering bite point.
brimmergj
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5/7/2020 7:28am
brimmergj wrote:
I've had pretty good luck with Uberbike XL pads. They're 25% thicker than normal pads and definitely close the gap. I added the link for ZEE...
I've had pretty good luck with Uberbike XL pads. They're 25% thicker than normal pads and definitely close the gap. I added the link for ZEE pads, if you wanted to check them out.

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-New-Sa…

My brother use to do pad advancements and essentially overfill the brakes with fluid. Worked fine and dandy until they locked on his rear rotor a few turns into an enduro stage and started to smoke. Cooked the pads and rotor. He doesn't do that anymore.
hairyyy wrote:
Don`t them pads have thinner back plates resulting in more actual brake pad whilst maintaining standard overall thickness? Ive been bubble bleeding shimano with the lever...
Don`t them pads have thinner back plates resulting in more actual brake pad whilst maintaining standard overall thickness?

Ive been bubble bleeding shimano with the lever pulled in right up to putting the bolt/o ring back into the lever gives a slightly better lever throw and essentially overfills the system slightly, also seems to help with wandering bite point.
Good point. That is how they state they made the compound thicker. I just remember them horribly rubbing the rotor when I put the current set in. I hadn't ever had that issue with their standard pads before.
rockchomper
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA US
5/7/2020 8:14am
TEAMROBOT wrote:
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors? I'm sure this is the worst idea...
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors?

I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.

Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
do it youll be fine the TRP 2.3 rotor works great in shimanos and its priced well, also what i have found to reduce shimano lever throw is to do a lever bleed (using the bleed cup) with the pads and rotor installed, this takes up the free space with fluid just make sure you use the bleed cup only and DONT touch the bleeder on the caliper.
1
hd4rider
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Bentonville, AR US
5/7/2020 10:11am
I’ve found 160mm rotors have too little stopping power in some situations. I can’t imagine trying to stop with 2.3mm rotors. Do you only ride in the flattest fields in the middle of Kansas on trails with zero turns?
5
TEAMROBOT
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Los Angeles, CA US
5/7/2020 12:16pm
Dave_Camp wrote:
lever throw is related to seal roll-back- i'd imagine putting in thicker rotors would end up similar to putting in new pads. UNLESS then new rotor...
lever throw is related to seal roll-back- i'd imagine putting in thicker rotors would end up similar to putting in new pads.

UNLESS then new rotor pushes the pistons so far into the caliper that they can't fully retract.

https://www.quora.com/What-causes-a-brake-piston-to-retract

Dave, that's the idea. With fresh pads and a thick rotor there would be nowhere for the pistons to retract to, thus closer bite point. Sounds like it could work. Imma try it and let y'all know.
reseRved
Posts
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Location
Santa Cruz, CA US
5/7/2020 1:23pm
TEAMROBOT wrote:
reseRved, have you noticed a change in feel at the lever with your bigger rotors?
Coming from Ice-tech rotors, I really don't notice a difference. I think the difference between new pads and worn pads is more noticeable than the 0.3mm difference between a standard rotor and a "thick" one. I also agree with Rockchomper on bleed process. "Burping" the air from the lever gets the lever feel perfect in under 5 minutes- no need to replace all the fluid unless it's really dirty.
brash
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367
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4/24/2019
Location
AU
5/7/2020 3:23pm
TEAMROBOT wrote:
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors? I'm sure this is the worst idea...
Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors?

I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.

Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
Try it and let us know? I have Code R's and without the pad adjust i find as the pads wear the throw is pretty terrible...
Try it and let us know? I have Code R's and without the pad adjust i find as the pads wear the throw is pretty terrible. Like you, I've tried over filling, but that is frustrating if you wanna change pads on the road and don't have a bleed kit. I end just binning pads early which isn't great.
I really like my Code R's, but have the same frustration. I like a real instant bite point after pulling the lever, after a big day in the bike park the bite point is nowhere near where it was at the start of the day. Still heaps of meat on the pads too. My other bike with saints just simply adjust the lever and it's gravy.
5/7/2020 5:42pm
I reckon it will be sweet. We ran some 2.0mm thick galfer discs in some saint brakes for a day of collecting data and they worked great. I'm sure another .3 will be fine, the servo wave design on their levers is designed to give them tons of clearance
Falcon
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Menifee, CA US
5/15/2020 10:14am
hd4rider wrote:
I’ve found 160mm rotors have too little stopping power in some situations. I can’t imagine trying to stop with 2.3mm rotors. Do you only ride in...
I’ve found 160mm rotors have too little stopping power in some situations. I can’t imagine trying to stop with 2.3mm rotors. Do you only ride in the flattest fields in the middle of Kansas on trails with zero turns?
WoohooGrinning
2.3mm thick. Cool
1

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