Bottom Bracket won't budge

Soak the threads with a thread unlocker of some variety (WD-40 may work), then try getting some more leverage on that sucker by putting a pipe or something on the end of your bb tool/wrench.

bturman wrote: Soak the threads with a thread unlocker of some variety (WD-40 may work), then try getting some more leverage on that sucker by putting a pipe or something on the end of your bb tool/wrench.

Yeah thats along the lines I was thinking. I've also read somewhere to heat the shell, to loosen up the BB? I don't really think thats a great idea. Also at my work we have a pneumatic ratchet gun that I could use, but part of me fears breaking my shell with too much torque.

Gradually applying the torque in a controlled manner seems far better than going to town with the pneumatic ratchet. I'd heat it up as a last resort. That trick only seems to really work well when the frame and bb are of different materials/expansion rates.

Yeah heat and the wrench are gonna be my last options. But thanks for your help. I guess if I can't get it out I'm just gonna take it down to my lbs.

Liquid Wrench works well for that stuff. Spray some down the seat tube so it can soak into the BB shell and tap on the shell with the handle of a screwdriver. Allow it to penetrate for some time and with many screwdriver tappings for best results. Use a bolt that is of the same thread pattern as your crank bolt but longer, to secure the BB tool [one that has wrench flats] to the BB. Don't forget that the drive side of the BB shell is a left hand thread, so it turns clock wise to loosen. Hope that helps!

Colin McCarthy wrote: Liquid Wrench works well for that stuff. Spray some down the seat tube so it can soak into the BB shell and tap on the shell with the handle of a screwdriver. Allow it to penetrate for some time and with many screwdriver tappings for best results. Use a bolt that is of the same thread pattern as your crank bolt but longer, to secure the BB tool [one that has wrench flats] to the BB. Don't forget that the drive side of the BB shell is a left hand thread, so it turns clock wise to loosen. Hope that helps!

Yeah I know about the treading and what not. Looks like I get to run to the hardware store sometime tomorrow when my hangover clears...Oh New Years. But I hadnt really thought about putting some lubricant down the seat post so thanks for the help there!

Colin. Great idea with the Liquid Wrench down the seat tube. I'm ashamed that I didn't think of it first. I didn't mention the heat because frames are usually painted and paint doesn't like heat. That trick is used most commonly on steel pedals in aluminum cranks. The bolt to hold the tool is another good one I've used. Those internal BB tools just love to shred BB cups, particularly the cheesy plastic ones.

OK, so after letting my BB soak in Liquid Wrench for a few days and multiple tappings, I finally got my BB out.(Took hardly any effort this time.) Next question is, the new crankset I just ordered recommends a 113 mm spindle length, but the BB i just pulled has a 118 mm spindle length. So, what length spindle do you think I should get?

Someone still makes a square tapered BB? If they say 113, go with a 113 unless your frame has some kind of chain line issue. It always used to seem like I had to try a few sizes to find the right combo.

Big Bird wrote: Someone still makes a square tapered BB? If they say 113, go with a 113 unless your frame has some kind of chain line issue. It always used to seem like I had to try a few sizes to find the right combo.

Yeah somewhat I figured. I can always return the BB to CRC I think? I'll go with 113 and see how it works out

Also yes Shimano and Truativ still make square tapered BBs haha